How do I run over 25psi? 2 questions within.

[turbovanman²]

Ok, my cal is good to around 30 psi, running 3 bar map. I have 2 problems-first, my Dawes MBC is maxed out and I can only get 25 ish psi, how can I run more-put a stiffer spring in? suggestions please.

I briefly ran 35 or more psi on Friday by unplugging the wastegate, it popped and ran like crap, so if I can regulate the boost over 30, do I just need to watch that I have enough fuel or?

[Tony Hanna]

Simon, you might experiment with a bleed type boost control to run that much boost. I'm assuming the Dawes is a grainger or ball and spring type.
The stiffer spring might work too. I seem to recall Ken mentioning something about that in a post awhile ago.
Also, (and I'm sure you know this) but watch your octane requirements. It's still possible to do serious damage even with enough fuel. Your'e well into race gas or premium/alky territory. I'm guessing you already know that, but felt like I had to mention it anyway.
Good Luck!

[GLHSKEN]

Buy a 1/4" ferule (like for an ice maker line) set the spring on top of that. It will stiffen it up.

[turbovanman²]

Buy a 1/4" ferule (like for an ice maker line) set the spring on top of that. It will stiffen it up.

Oh, good idea, I will get one of those and try it. Thanks Ken.

Tony, already running C16, :thumb:

[Tony Hanna]

Oh, good idea, I will get one of those and try it. Thanks Ken.

Tony, already running C16, :thumb:

Figured as much, but better safe than sorry.:nod:

[glhs875]

Oh, good idea, I will get one of those and try it. Thanks Ken.

Tony, already running C16, :thumb:

Yea, but you already said you were detonating some. Are you running a swirl or G head? What is your static compression ratio? How efficient is the air (temp) that is getting to the engine at that boost level. Even with a 3bar cal, if things are not right (timing, air temps, octane,etc.) your engine will go boom!!! That's getting into alot of boost. C16 may not be enough!!!

[turbovanman²]

Yea, but you already said you were detonating some. Are you running a swirl or G head? What is your static compression ratio? How efficient is the air (temp) that is getting to the engine at that boost level. Even with a 3bar cal, if things are not right (timing, air temps, octane,etc.) your engine will go boom!!! That's getting into alot of boost. C16 may not be enough!!!

Thanks, I will fix the detonation before I turn it up, :thumb:

[mw6886]

You might want to also try putting in more of a restrictor in your wastegate line. The computer control is really good (ie. PW) about controlling boost, especially if you have a large wastegate can and good vacuum lines.

[turbovanman²]

You might want to also try putting in more of a restrictor in your wastegate line. The computer control is really good (ie. PW) about controlling boost, especially if you have a large wastegate can and good vacuum lines.

I don't run the computer control.

[mw6886]

I know you dont. I was trying to promote computer control.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I can't get the computer to control the boost running the same cal Simon is running. He's better off with the manual control and that cal.

[mw6886]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3175

Had the same problem. It is now cured. You must pay attention to restrictors, vacuum line sizes, and what type of boost control the cal uses. (That particular cal uses new T1 style boost control.)

[ShelGame]

I didn't set the boost up to do anything in Simon's cal (since he was planning to use a MBC). I think it even still has stock boost levels. It won't run on computer control as-is. I can easily change that, though...

[GLHNSLHT2]

running everything it requires. Hooked up to a 89 T1 boost control solenoid, running the right red restrictor and my vacuum line sizes are stock size but flow a tad more. No matter what I get 16psi even though The scanner is switching boost goals but the boost doesn't change.

[ShelGame]

Ok, my cal is good to around 30 psi, running 3 bar map. I have 2 problems-first, my Dawes MBC is maxed out and I can only get 25 ish psi, how can I run more-put a stiffer spring in? suggestions please.

I briefly ran 35 or more psi on Friday by unplugging the wastegate, it popped and ran like crap, so if I can regulate the boost over 30, do I just need to watch that I have enough fuel or?

With a 3-bar cal, you only get fuel and spark control up to 29psig manifold pressure. Anything over that, and you have the same problems as a stock computer/2-bar MAP going over 14psi.

You need some way of adding fuel...

Has anyone ever heard of or seen a 3.5, or 4-bar MAP sensor?

[GLHNSLHT2]

yeah GM diesel's use a 3.5 bar map sensor.

[ShelGame]

yeah GM diesel's use a 3.5 bar map sensor.

I wonder if it's compatible with our electronics...

[turbovanman²]

I wonder if it's compatible with our electronics...

I can plug it in and let you know, my brother, funnily enough as a 6.5L turbo diesel. Rob, it it works, you could be the first one to do a cal with it, :eyebrows:

[GLHNSLHT2]

They actually use 2 map sensors. one is a 3.5 bar map and the other I believe is a 2 bar or a 2.5 bar. I'll have to go back through my records to find out which sensor is which.

[ShelGame]

I can plug it in and let you know, my brother, funnily enough as a 6.5L turbo diesel. Rob, it it works, you could be the first one to do a cal with it, :eyebrows:

If you find a sensor that works, I'll do it. It won't be too hard, since I've already done it for 3-bar. Maybe an hours worth of work to re-scale it to 3.5 bar.

3.5 bar would give you computer control up to 36psig.

We'll need to find out the MAP sensor transfer function, though. That might be a little harder, but I'm sure I can find it from a Motorola data sheet somewhere. There aren't too many 3.5 bar MAP sensor manufacturers out there.

[Aries_Turbo]

www.freescale.com has 4-bar maps and you can get free samples. :) MPXH6400 is the part number im pretty sure. www.rs-autosport.com has 5$ daughter boards that you can solder the map sensor to to make it easier to work with cause the map is a small device. you also have to be creative with the vaccum line cause the nipple is small but a little creative zip tying and you are all set.

Brian

[ShelGame]

Freescale, that's the one. I couldn't remember the name. That's the microchip company that Motorola spun-off. They actually make most automotive MAP sensors.

If it was my car, I'd prefer to run a current automotive part. They're already ruggedized.

I'm sure the diesel 3.5 bar sensor will work, diesels still use essentially the same electronics as gas engines, just different control strategies.

[ART]

Has anyone ever heard of or seen a 3.5, or 4-bar MAP sensor?

Hell Yeah! :thumb: http://www.spooledmotorsports.com/haltech_mapsensors.html
HTH, Torg
Haltech Map Sensors
MAP Sensors for use with Haltech Engine Management units. Come in 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 bar applications.
HALTECH MAP SENSORS
Spooled Part # Description Price Add to Cart
HALTE-MAP-001 HALTECH 1 Bar MAP Sensor $70.00
HALTE-MAP-002 HALTECH 2 Bar MAP Sensor $75.00
HALTE-MAP-003 HALTECH 3 Bar MAP Sensor $80.00
HALTE-MAP-004 HALTECH 4 Bar MAP Sensor $209.00
HALTE-MAP-005 HALTECH 5 Bar MAP Sensor $219.00

[turbovanman²]

Luckily, I can probably get a 3.5 bar map for free, :thumb:

I believe that the internal wiring is identical to reg Maps.

[ShelGame]

Luckily, I can probably get a 3.5 bar map for free, :thumb:

I believe that the internal wiring is identical to reg Maps.

Plus, you always want to use the smallest possible MAP sensor. If you don't want to run more than 36psi, then 3.5 bar is perfect. The SMEC and SBEC only have 8-bit A/D converters. The bigger the MAP, the lower the resolution.

[Dave]

Plus, you always want to use the smallest possible MAP sensor. If you don't want to run more than 36psi, then 3.5 bar is perfect. The SMEC and SBEC only have 8-bit A/D converters. The bigger the MAP, the lower the resolution.

I couldn't imagine anyone wanting to run over 36psi in our cars. I'd like to see it though! *cough, cough* Simon...

[ShelGame]

I just did a little math, Simon. I think you're going to need bigger injectors to run much past 25psi. Your +40's will be pretty much maxxed out around 28psi.

Got a set of 72's handy?

EDIT: Actually, 650cc/min would be perfect. 72's are a little bigger than necessary...

[turbovanman²]

I just did a little math, Simon. I think you're going to need bigger injectors to run much past 25psi. Your +40's will be pretty much maxxed out around 28psi.

Got a set of 72's handy?

EDIT: Actually, 650cc/min would be perfect. 72's are a little bigger than necessary...

Guess I am going to have to buy a set I guess, :(

Where can I find those? won't alky injection help with not needing larger injectors?


I couldn't imagine anyone wanting to run over 36psi in our cars. I'd like to see it though! *cough, cough* Simon...



I want 12's, cough, cough, :p

[ShelGame]

Guess I am going to have to buy a set I guess, :(

Where can I find those? won't alky injection help with not needing larger injectors?





I want 12's, cough, cough, :p

It should help, I think. But, I don't have any experience tuning with alky. I really don't know what it would do to the A/F...

I've seen 650's and 680's on eBay for DSM cars. I think those injectors are compatible (low impedence).

Here's an example: eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PTE-PRECISION-680CC-INJECTORS-ECLIPSE-TALON-TURBO-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33554QQitemZ8066308 980QQrdZ1)

[turbovanman²]

Thanks. Not a bad price but that will have to wait until next year. I would rather spend the money on an alky system first.

[Tony Hanna]

As far as the alky helping with fueling, it will.:thumb:
When I had the alcohol injection setup running on the Daytona I was using it to provide all the additional fuel from 14-28 psi. No extra injectors, bigger injectors, rising rate regulator or custom cal, just a bone stock fuel system with a cutout raiser. I was even still running the stock in-tank pump :eek:
It's all a matter of pump pressure and jetting. Also, don't forget that it takes more methanol than gasoline for a given volume of air to get a proper a/f.
I did my initial jetting figuring for 40% over gasoline which was way too rich, but a good safe place to start.
If you use the fuel side of a nitrous nozzle to inject your alky, you can tune the system by simply swapping jets, plus they can be had for under $30.
After my experience with the Daytona, I'm sold on methanol as the best way to support high boost on pump gas.

[guyd_15]

Simon,
I've got 2 of the G-Valves that have the 3 different springs (for various pressure adjustments). If your interested, just LMK.
Guy

[cordes]

In regard to to alky supplimenting fuel delivery, as Tony Z stated it does help.

I think that most have seen Carl's setup in that charger, and he uses D-cal to pull fuel once the alky comes on.

I believe that meth is 7:1 as far as stoemetric goes, but when supplimenting with it as fuel, you don't have to run it too rich from what I have read.

Simon, you are pretty much were I wanted to be this summer in that you are running enough boost to max out the +40s. I too have cruched some numbers and though that 27-28lbs. would be about the max safe limit, and even then some alky would be nice.

Now I just need to get my shadow back together so that I can start beating on my omni.:nod:

ETA: I was really looking forward to going with the 72pph injectors because they are based off of a 45psi static pressure which will give your fuel pump a little breathing room when you add 30psi to it.

[turbovanman²]

I just want to jury rig something together for this Friday but looks like it ain't gonna happen. I have phoned around today and no one locally stocks anything.

I was considering using my old fuel pump and a NOS nozzle but I still need a solenoid and they are $100. For $260, I could get Devilsown kit and be done with it. Guess I will just drain my tank at the track and run as pure C16 as I can and hope for the best. Going to buy some dry ice and ice down my intake and leave some in my cold air box.

[cordes]

I just want to jury rig something together for this Friday but looks like it ain't gonna happen. I have phoned around today and no one locally stocks anything.

I was considering using my old fuel pump and a NOS nozzle but I still need a solenoid and they are $100. For $260, I could get Devilsown kit and be done with it. Guess I will just drain my tank at the track and run as pure C16 as I can and hope for the best. Going to buy some dry ice and ice down my intake and leave some in my cold air box.


I would nix the dry ice in the cold air box idea. I don't think that sucking in co2 would be too beneficial to your runs.

[turbovanman²]

I would nix the dry ice in the cold air box idea. I don't think that sucking in co2 would be too beneficial to your runs.

Ok, then I'll just use cubed ice in a zip lock bag so it doesn't leak water.

[cordes]

Ok, then I'll just use cubed ice in a zip lock bag so it doesn't leak water.

throw a little salt in there so it gets colder!

[turbovanman²]

throw a little salt in there so it gets colder!


Table salt? in the bag I assume.

[Directconnection]

Simon, I'd just try and figure out what is causing the detonation you are having and I garauntee you will run at least low 13's on less boost.

I know of someone that was having troubles with their car a few years back and they were running 35+psi on a 3-bar cal. They, too... had a goal in mind and was hellbent on doing it or breaking the car. Fed up, the owner handed the keys to a more prominent T-M'r and after freaking about the boost level, backed it waaay down into 3-bar territory and proceeded to run the car's quickest and fastet 1/4 passes ever. Did come a tad short of the goal.... but lesson learned.


Do you remember Gus? May be before your time... but he always said to tune the car 1psi a day. Stood by those words, too. This lets you work with that level and really get to understand it better before moving up to the next level.

[turbovanman²]

Simon, I'd just try and figure out what is causing the detonation you are having and I garauntee you will run at least low 13's on less boost.

I know of someone that was having troubles with their car a few years back and they were running 35+psi on a 3-bar cal. They, too... had a goal in mind and was hellbent on doing it or breaking the car. Fed up, the owner handed the keys to a more prominent T-M'r and after freaking about the boost level, backed it waaay down into 3-bar territory and proceeded to run the car's quickest and fastet 1/4 passes ever. Did come a tad short of the goal.... but lesson learned.


Do you remember Gus? May be before your time... but he always said to tune the car 1psi a day. Stood by those words, too. This lets you work with that level and really get to understand it better before moving up to the next level.

Hahahaa, your tooooooooooo sane, I want it now, muhahahahaa, :evil:

I am not going 35 plus until I get the det figured out, of course. its for down the road. BTW, did you check out the time slips I posted?

[GLHNSLHT2]

simon might want to try soaking down the i/c with a garden hose too. I do this to my stock i/c cars then spray them with a water/alcohol mix while they're in the staging lanes. Keeps em nice and cool. Look for the V8 guys hosing down their rads and that's where the hose will be :)

[glhs875]

Do you remember Gus? May be before your time... but he always said to tune the car 1psi a day. Stood by those words, too. This lets you work with that level and really get to understand it better before moving up to the next level.[/QUOTE]

That's good advice! And I follow that idea myself. On my new combo I run 2 stages of boost. 10psi launch, then 15 psi for now. I have been able to get alot more power from this boost level just from tuning. And since I ran the 8.88 ET on pure street tires at that boost level, I have gotten what feels like another 2 to 3 tenths worth in acceleration improvement. I'll find out for sure soon!

[Directconnection]

:evil:
Hahahaa, your tooooooooooo sane, I want it now, muhahahahaa, :evil:

I am not going 35 plus until I get the det figured out, of course. its for down the road. BTW, did you check out the time slips I posted?

So...that leaves open a window for running low boost, which to you means....




33psi? ;)

Seriously, try tuning it on the street before the drags. I would bet money
(not much...I am brok-er than you) that you could run those #s from last friday at only 18 psi once in tune with the setup you have. Then...25-29psi
:evil:

[turbovanman²]

I will try, I don't know about 18 psi though, although with alky, I could have more timing. We'll see, time and money are short and Friday is coming up fast. :(

[Tony Hanna]

I just want to jury rig something together for this Friday but looks like it ain't gonna happen. I have phoned around today and no one locally stocks anything.

I was considering using my old fuel pump and a NOS nozzle but I still need a solenoid and they are $100. <snip>

I'm assuming at that price you're talking about a fuel solenoid for a nitrous kit?
In Canadian dollars? Anyhow, check these out water injection solenoid (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Water-Solenoid-for-Water-Injection_W0QQitemZ8026080712QQcategoryZ33742QQssP ageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem). They used to have them listed as methanol safe. I used one of these on the Daytona for the second stage (first stage came on with the pump) and it worked flawlessly. Plus, the price is alot more reasonable. I know it won't help you by this weekend, but if you decide to build a system later, it might be handy.
HTH,

edit: You do know that you don't absolutely have to have a solenoid for a single stage system right? A checkvalve is all that's absolutely necessary, and often, the one built into the fuel pump will do the job alone.
In that sort of a setup, you just use your pressure switch through a relay to turn the pump on and off.

[turbovanman²]

edit: You do know that you don't absolutely have to have a solenoid for a single stage system right? A checkvalve is all that's absolutely necessary, and often, the one built into the fuel pump will do the job alone.
In that sort of a setup, you just use your pressure switch through a relay to turn the pump on and off.

Well I have a nitrous nozzle, my old fuel pump so I guess I could try it and see what happens. I could just the vacuum port on the t/b for now to see if it works. I feel though that 80 psi pump might spray too much? lol!

[Tony Hanna]

Well I have a nitrous nozzle, my old fuel pump so I guess I could try it and see what happens. I could just the vacuum port on the t/b for now to see if it works. I feel though that 80 psi pump might spray too much? lol!

If it does, just try swapping to a smaller jet in your nitrous nozzle.
Out of curiosity, what nitrous nozzle are you using? If you're using one of the standard type fogger nozzles that have both a nitrous and fuel connection, be sure to use the fuel side. The nitrous side is designed to operate at a much higher pressure and won't atomize the alky. Instead it shoots more of a stream than a mist. For mounting, I think NOS recomends that the nozzle be mounted about 6" before the throttlebody. That's where I had mine and it worked fine.
HTH,

[Subliminal]

Simon,

This could be a stupid suggestion, but have you tried taking the spring out of your MBC and stretching it a bit and then sticking it back in? I know I had problems with that once, and it's pretty much a 'free mod'. ;)

[turbovanman²]

Simon,

This could be a stupid suggestion, but have you tried taking the spring out of your MBC and stretching it a bit and then sticking it back in? I know I had problems with that once, and it's pretty much a 'free mod'. ;)


Thanks Damon, not a stupid question. I did do that and the boost got spikey so I kinda stretched it back, lol!



If it does, just try swapping to a smaller jet in your nitrous nozzle.
Out of curiosity, what nitrous nozzle are you using? If you're using one of the standard type fogger nozzles that have both a nitrous and fuel connection, be sure to use the fuel side. The nitrous side is designed to operate at a much higher pressure and won't atomize the alky. Instead it shoots more of a stream than a mist. For mounting, I think NOS recomends that the nozzle be mounted about 6" before the throttlebody. That's where I had mine and it worked fine.
HTH,

Its a nozzle that sprays, it looks like its knotched and shielded on one side. The nitrous jet size is- 052

I will try to rig something up in the next few days and see how it works. I will just use the TB for now as I don't want to drill any hole yet unless it works. If it does, I will drill away, :thumb:

[Tony Hanna]

Only thing I can think of that might cause a snag with that is if you're behind the throttle blade, it might try to siphon while you're in vacuum.
If you can give me a max. target boost figure and pump pressure, I'll try to figure out how much horsepower that jet will support on alky. That should give you a pretty good idea of which way you'll need to go with it.

[Tony Hanna]

Ok, I noticed 80 psi pump from your earlier post.
The main thing you have to remember is against 35 psi of boost (example), that pump is effectively only putting out 45 psi.
Let's say for the sake of discussion you want to support 35 psi of boost, but your cal quits fueling at 30. Figuring 10 hp per psi, you'd need to support 50 hp. Using a 40% correction for alcohol (remember, it takes more alcohol for a given volume of air), that would be like supporting 70 hp on gasoline.
At 45 psi pump pressure (static pump pressure minus boost) you would need a .023 fuel jet to support 50 horsepower on methanol.
This is just a ballpark figure and should still have you fairly rich, but you can fine tune from there watching your egt's and a/f.
All I need are the numbers and I can give you a ballpark starting point for jetting.

[turbovanman²]

Only thing I can think of that might cause a snag with that is if you're behind the throttle blade, it might try to siphon while you're in vacuum.
If you can give me a max. target boost figure and pump pressure, I'll try to figure out how much horsepower that jet will support on alky. That should give you a pretty good idea of which way you'll need to go with it.

Sweet, thanks Tony.

I will run a checkvalve so it won't siphon. I just want to try it and then if it works, I will mount it permantley in my IC piping.

[Ground Rat]

simon might want to try soaking down the i/c with a garden hose too. I do this to my stock i/c cars then spray them with a water/alcohol mix while they're in the staging lanes. Keeps em nice and cool. Look for the V8 guys hosing down their rads and that's where the hose will be :)

Misting your IC is a big no no at the track here. A CO2 sprayer is the way to go; it's cheap too!

[cordes]

Yes, salt in the bag. About any type will do. Just bring a cooler full of ice, and you should be all set.

[turbovanman²]

Ok, so using an 87 Shelby Z fuel pump immersed in winshield washer fluid, NOS nozzle and 052 jet, I measured roughly 235ml in 10 secs. Is this too much or?

What is the best stuff to use, the blue or pink stuff, where do you get pure methanyl from?

[DodgeZ]

Ok, my cal is good to around 30 psi, running 3 bar map. I have 2 problems-first, my Dawes MBC is maxed out and I can only get 25 ish psi, how can I run more-put a stiffer spring in? suggestions please.

I briefly ran 35 or more psi on Friday by unplugging the wastegate, it popped and ran like crap, so if I can regulate the boost over 30, do I just need to watch that I have enough fuel or?

you need a bigger turbo. Yours is stock right? TIII? 25psi is blowing hot air more then that will be shooting flames...

[Whorse]

I think his turbo is plenty big.

Go to Canadian Tire and in the paint section find a 4L jug of Methyl Hydrate. Go for the 99.9% stuff, not the 60%. Shouldn't cost you more than 10 bucks.

[turbovanman²]

you need a bigger turbo. Yours is stock right? TIII? 25psi is blowing hot air more then that will be shooting flames...

Dude, hello, anyone home, :p

I have a T3/T4, 50 trim, Stage III and .63 housing on Typerts log header.

[Tony Hanna]

Simon,
I can't give you a definate answer on the washer fluid, as I've only ever used race fuel grade Methanol.There are two brands of methanol I know of, Edge and Alky. One or the other should be available where you buy your race fuel.
If not, they should be able to point you in the direction of somewhere that has it. I live in a fairly small town type area and there are at least 3 places here that carry it. One gas station and 2 speed shops.

Your .052 jet is big enough to support 365 horsepower at 45 psi fuel pressure on gasoline. Using a 40% correction to go to methanol, that's still enough fuel by itself for 219 hp. I'm leaning toward fuel rolling out the tailpipe rich with that jet. I need some exact numbers to do any remotely accurate figuring.
Mostly, I need to know exactly how much boost do you want to support with the alcohol alone. Also, an exact fuel pressure reading from the pump you are using against a dead load (blocked line) would be helpful.
Without knowing the exacts, I'm still going to say an .023 jet would be a better place to start.
HTH,

[turbovanman²]

I know from experience that these pumps can dead head around 100 psi. I am looking for 25-30 psi of boost. I have read to use windshield washer fluid as i am not looking for more fuel, just need to cool the air charge down. Also, is Methyl Hydrate any good?

Surfing around Mike M used a vacuum solenoid in line and was turned on by the relay so it wouldn't siphon under vacuum.

[Tony Hanna]

I never really gave much thought to using it strictly for cooling. I built my setup for the extra fuel and the anti-knock properties of the methanol. The extra cooling was just the icing on the cake.
Since your cal is going to be giving you all the fuel you need, I'd stay pretty conservative on the methanol, just what you need to control the detonation, or you're likely to end up losing power due to being too rich.
I jetted the Daytona way to rich just experimenting around, and as soon as the alcohol kicked on, it would blubber like an over jetted 2 cycle. If it starts acting like that, you know you need to jet down a lot. I'm guessing this will happen with the .052 jet if you run pure methanol. For the other stuff (ww fluid, etc) I can't say as I've never had any experience with them. All I ever used was Edge methanol.

[DodgeZ]

Dude, hello, anyone home, :p

I have a T3/T4, 50 trim, Stage III and .63 housing on Typerts log header.


Ah yes as you stated in your first post.

[cordes]

OK, the 236ml works out to be the equivalent of a 22.5lb injector coming on. That is a lot of fuel for a three bar +40 cal until much higher boost. Since the theory is that you will probably max out the +40s at 28ish PSI, I would run a much smaller jet for the cooling effect and anti det properties. Other wise I would agree with Tony Z that there would probably be a serious bog going on.

As others have stated, I too think that there is still some thing to be had with some more tuning, but the alky should be a huge step to get rid of the det that you are currently experiencing.

[turbovanman²]

Well, it works, but Tony and you guys are right, the jet is too big. I knew it would be but had to try it. It comes on around 18-20 psi and on 89 gas, didn't ping at all which normally, it would have the death rattle, that started to miss, fart due due too much fluid so today, will order a few smaller jets.

[ShelGame]

Freescale, that's the one. I couldn't remember the name. That's the microchip company that Motorola spun-off. They actually make most automotive MAP sensors.

If it was my car, I'd prefer to run a current automotive part. They're already ruggedized.

I'm sure the diesel 3.5 bar sensor will work, diesels still use essentially the same electronics as gas engines, just different control strategies.

Here's the info sheet for a Delphi 3.3-Bar MAP sensor. That'll support up to 33.5psi of boost pressure.

There's no electrical info, though, so, I don't know if it's compatible with our electronics...

[mw6886]

On the pic on the first page, it shows the sensor - on the sticker on the pic on the left side it shows - 5v Out GND... Looks like standard GM weatherpak 3 pin plug too?

This PDF also has the transfer curve. You are the master of that, right?

[ShelGame]

On the pic on the first page, it shows the sensor - on the sticker on the pic on the left side it shows - 5v Out GND... Looks like standard GM weatherpak 3 pin plug too?

This PDF also has the transfer curve. You are the master of that, right?

Ha! I didn't even notice that. I was looking for an electrical schematic in the notes somewhere.

I do have a spreadsheet to convert the transfer function to appropriate constants for the SMEC/SBEC, yes. :)

Next question is: What vehicle(s) use this sensor, and where do we buy them?

[t3rse]

i don't know how it is up there, but we can get pure methanol from go-cart racing shops, which are plentiful down here. chem suppliers will have it too. also, there is a methanol based Heet gas anti-freeze additive (99% by vol).

fair warning, the stuff evaporates really really fast. keep containers tight.

[turbovanman²]

Coming home tonight, it actually works. Running 25psi on 89 octane with absolutely no pinging. I ended up using a 020 jet, I tried the 032 but it still spluttered. I managed to round up the winter stuff, it has more methanol so bully for me, :thumb:

[cordes]

Sounds like you are going to be flying tonight!

[turbovanman²]

Sounds like you are going to be flying tonight!

Maybe not, the weather has turned iffy, slight chance it might rain, :mad:

[DodgeZ]

you'll be ight

http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/hourbyhour/CAXX0485?from=36hr_topnav_business

[cordes]

Maybe not, the weather has turned iffy, slight chance it might rain, :mad:

It has rained every day here for about 13 days now I think. It is getting pretty hard to keep track.

Any who, looks like you might be alright after all.

[Whorse]

It started raining in abbottsford on my way home, and was sprinkling a bit by the track. I don't think I'm gonna head out.