An OBX thread-things your noticing and how the washers inside go.

[turbovanman]

After my 2nd night at the drag strip, I noticed there is now some play at the wheels, by this, I mean you can move the wheel forward and backward aprox an inch with one wheel off the ground, one wheel on. First night out, it was solid? also, on full turns, has a slight clicking noise? is all this normal and I am paranoid or ?

It still does nice 2 wheel burnouts.

[Clay]

moving the wheel forwards and backwards, do you mean towards the front of the van, and towards the back?? This sounds like a bad hub bearing.

as for the clicking, I dont know about the OBX, but that is common in some RWD lockers.

[turbovanman]

Its not a wheel bearing. You can rotate the wheel forward, like your driving, and then backward. It didn't do this when new, so it this normal or ?

[Garret]

I would imagine it's the parts wearing into each other I don't know of an LSD that you can't turn a bit before the other side catches up... cept a spool

["Top Fuel" Bender]

No clue on the diff. your using
But are sure the play your seeing isn't in the c.v. joints?
Next time your doin this make sure the whole axle is rotating consistant with wheel
A worn out/ just about shot c.v. axle will click when turning

[looneytuner]

Sounds like somebody is lost without something to fix. ;) Might try dating a gurl for a change. They are good for getting into trouble too.

[turbovanman]

No clue on the diff. your using
But are sure the play your seeing isn't in the c.v. joints?
Next time your doin this make sure the whole axle is rotating consistant with wheel
A worn out/ just about shot c.v. axle will click when turning

See title of this thread-:p

Guys, please don't belittle me, I know whats going on, the diff is letting the wheel rock back and forth, plain and simple. I am asking if anyone has noticed this or not.

[Clay]

Sounds like somebody is lost without something to fix. ;) Might try dating a gurl for a change. They are good for getting into trouble too.

hehehehe I cant wait to see the reply to this on! ;)

[turbovanman]

Sounds like somebody is lost without something to fix. ;) Might try dating a gurl for a change. They are good for getting into trouble too.

Hahahahaaha, this from a guy who's sig reads "SERIOUS HELP NEEDED" :thumb:


BTW, I do have a gf, :nod:


Yes, I am also being paranoid, I blew up one diff and can't afford to do it again.

[MiniMopar]

Well, I can tell you that the gears in my OBX, being as roughly machined as they were, would bind up and not let me do what you describe. In fact, it acted like I had a welded diff. I have just been driving it daily in rainy weather since I got it working, but if I have a chance I'll jack up a wheel and see if it has play like you describe.

Given the tolerances on the element gears that I observed, I would expect there to be some play once the gears were broken in and could move freely.

[turbovanman]

Thanks Russ, let me know what you find. I am hoping its normal, fingers crossed.

[DodgeZ]

After my 2nd night at the drag strip, I noticed there is now some play at the wheels, by this, I mean you can move the wheel forward and backward aprox an inch with one wheel off the ground, one wheel on. First night out, it was solid? also, on full turns, has a slight clicking noise? is all this normal and I am paranoid or ?

It still does nice 2 wheel burnouts.

Sounds like c/v joints to me.

[DodgeZ]

See title of this thread-:p

Guys, please don't belittle me, I know whats going on, the diff is letting the wheel rock back and forth, plain and simple. I am asking if anyone has noticed this or not.
still sounds like c/v joints lol

["Top Fuel" Bender]

See title of this thread-:p

Guys, please don't belittle me, I know whats going on, the diff is letting the wheel rock back and forth, plain and simple. I am asking if anyone has noticed this or not.


I know what diff. your using I don't have personal expeirence on the obx

[TurboJerry]

The play is normal. The Quaiffe is a little better though. There is 5 pinions on each side of the OBX,(Quaiffe has 6) and I think the less tooth contact causes the little extra play. Machining tolerances come into play too since the OBX is made over seas. I run magnets so I can see fairly easily if there is big pieces of metal anywhere. GF / wife trouble? I can tell you *all* about that........ Hehehe

[87csx2.4]

I wouldnt worry about it simon Its actually a lot less likely to sieze if its a little loose mine is loose too.I took the obx apart and cleaned and polished it before I installed it and the helical gears are fairly loose.It seems pretty strong though Ive been hammering some 1.7 60 ft's with a 3200 lb car.

[turbovanman]

Awesome, thanks guys. I just did a burnout in my work parking lot, showing my buddy what it will do, on street tires, no wheel hop it left two very nice dark blackies, :thumb: :amen:

[MiniMopar]

Finally some dry pavement today. I LOVE how it pulls through tight corners now...holicrap. No more peg leg spinning...just nail it and hang on with both hands! :) Life without one is like wearing a raincoat in the shower. :evil:

[MiniMopar]

About 3/4" of wheel movement due to the diff.

[Turbo Joe]

hey simmon, if you have alot of excess movement, yes it could be the cv axle, but check to see if your strutmount isn't moving. i broke one well the bearings fell apart and the thing drove a little funny and the wheel had abnormal movement i found the problem when i hung a drop light on the strut and saw it shaking back and forth. hopefully your just paraniod bud, lol!!

[boost geek]

Just checked mine, 2 1/4" with some click noise.

[MiniMopar]

Yeah, mine was about 3" if you moved the entire gear train. I tried not to spin the diff.

[turbovanman]

Awesome, thanks guys. I just a little worried, like I said, brand new there was no play. Phew, :amen:

[DodgeZ]

I noticed ups dropped my off around 12 today.

[MiniMopar]

Just an update, as the roads are dry again, finally. The heaviness while turning seems to be pretty much gone now. Even if I totally nail it in 2nd while making a sharp turn, the steering remains quite controllable.

In slippery conditions (wet roads and bad tires), the difference is also really noticable unless I have next to no traction at all. Then I can notice that one wheel is spinning at bit. Makes sense, since it needs some input torque to do its job.

I will, very occasionally, hear an odd click or two while making a sharp turn very slowly (like backing out of a parking space). I'm guessing it's just an element gear jostling around a bit in its slot.

In case you can't tell, I love this thing.

[turbovanman]

In case you can't tell, I love this thing.

Can't tell at all, :eyebrows:

Wait until you get to the track, your gonna die, :thumb:

[boost geek]

I will, very occasionally, hear an odd click or two while making a sharp turn very slowly (like backing out of a parking space). I'm guessing it's just an element gear jostling around a bit in its slot.

In case you can't tell, I love this thing.
Hey, mine does that too! I thought it might be the upper strut bearing. Oh well, the more Simon beats on his, the better I feel...;)

[4cefedomni]

i'm waiting for my spacer to be made and hearing you guys rave about them is killing me. i'm going to have to come out and see you run again Simon now that your in the 13's.

[turbovanman]

i'm waiting for my spacer to be made and hearing you guys rave about them is killing me. i'm going to have to come out and see you run again Simon now that your in the 13's.


I am pretty sure I will be out again this Friday night. Got the fuel pump for my alky setup.

[Mopar_Nutz]

I just heard something an hour or so ago. Simon....are you really the first????

[turbovanman]

I just heard something an hour or so ago. Simon....are you really the first????


Yep, :(

[powermaxx]

Yep, :(

Open it up and make sure it's the diff or the spacer bolts (saw your pic, think the spacer should have C'bores for the bolt heads if possible?).

I've been doing 5400rpm clutch side step launches with sticky DOT's and haven't seen/heard anything strange. (And I didn't check the OBX bolts, I'm praying...)

So get out there and find out. And let us know. :amen:

(Sorry to see the carnage Simon.... but don't give up!)

[BadAssPerformance]

Opened up an OBX last night and saw that one of the bellvue washers was cracked all the way thru on one side. I am in contact with the vendor to find out how I can get more.

I opened the other one I have and it is ok. I re-assembled it with blue loc-tite and 30 ft-lb on the bolts and will be putting in the T2 shadow soon.

The cracked washer one will hopefully be corrected before I have to put it in the Z.

[inmyshadow]

I don't run a OBX, but a friend of mine in town is going to. He disassembly his OBX because of some of then warning from the Honda Camp. He also got the new one yesterday, so he showed me whats up with OBX'.

Like mentioned, the cone washer can easily be cracked. My friend's first OBX had two cracked, one not so easy to detect. Second, those cone washers have been know to come stacked wrong, limiting the posi effect. And lastly, those allen bolts aren't torqued correctly. I helped hm unbolt them, I could feel the difference in torque on each one.

Then he showed me the gears. Some of those gear ends had been machined cut, some still had heat treating on the ends. Some of the gears had grinding marks that move beveled the end vs keeping it flat. I'm assuming this work is to adjust tolerances.

So, seems those with OBX' need to check them out before installing them.

later


Opened up an OBX last night and saw that one of the bellvue washers was cracked all the way thru on one side. I am in contact with the vendor to find out how I can get more.

I opened the other one I have and it is ok. I re-assembled it with blue loc-tite and 30 ft-lb on the bolts and will be putting in the T2 shadow soon.

The cracked washer one will hopefully be corrected before I have to put it in the Z.

[MiniMopar]

Yeah, that's pretty much what we've been saying. They need a thorough going-through before installation. I completely went through mine and the washers were correct and I didn't see any cracks (though I wasn't really looking for cracks). The only thing that was alarming was the bolt torque and the poor machining of the gears. As I mentioned in the other thread, I wish I had test-fitted the axles in the case and spline while it was apart. I had some assembly difficulties when I tried to put the axles in due to some burrs or something on the spines and/or case.

I didn't use any loctite, though. There wasn't any loctite or epoxy patch on there that I could see, plus the whole thing is spring loaded. Hmmm...maybe I should have.

On the subject of Loctite, I was told my someone (Cliff, I think) to use green Loctite on the ring gear bolts if you are planning to reuse them. I recently looked at their website and realized that this is not the right stuff to use. You should use the red "high strength" (not the red "perminent") stuff.

[TurbododgePirate]

I don't run a OBX, but a friend of mine in town is going to. He disassembly his OBX because of some of then warning from the Honda Camp. He also got the new one yesterday, so he showed me whats up with OBX'.

Like mentioned, the cone washer can easily be cracked. My friend's first OBX had two cracked, one not so easy to detect. Second, those cone washers have been know to come stacked wrong, limiting the posi effect. And lastly, those allen bolts aren't torqued correctly. I helped hm unbolt them, I could feel the difference in torque on each one.

Then he showed me the gears. Some of those gear ends had been machined cut, some still had heat treating on the ends. Some of the gears had grinding marks that move beveled the end vs keeping it flat. I'm assuming this work is to adjust tolerances.

So, seems those with OBX' need to check them out before installing them.

later



Okay, So I got one of the OBX diffs from the neon group buy. From what I am reading, I need to check it over. What specifically do I need to do/check? Any pictures? ~~Heath

[Directconnection]

How much are thes egoing for and they fit the 568's, right?

[iTurbo]

I'm having one put in an A568, but it will only work if using the A523 diff (A568/A523 hybrid). My A568 now has the 3.50 FD from an A523. Got it for $440 shipped from 'dailod' on eBay.

[MiniMopar]

Loosen opposite bolts a bit at a time so that the case doesn't get crooked as the spring washers push it apart. Watch out for the alignment pin that may fall out when you separate the halves. I doubt they spent any time fitting the element gears in each slot (given the overall quality), but just to be safe I kept track of which element gear went where when I removed them. This would be more important on a used unit.

IIRC, the side gears in the center were in two pieces with the spring washers between both sets. Just note the orientation of them. Inspect the washer alignment and apparently check for cracks. They should be oriented opposite one another like this: )()()(, not lined up like this: )))(((. I'd also grab an axle and make sure it will slide into the diff housings without binding and that the splines in the side gears fit nicely on the axle splines.

When reassembing, torque it down evenly like putting on lug nuts. I torqued mine to 30 ft-lbs.

That's all I can think of.

[DodgeZ]

I had to shim up the tailshaft side a bunch.

[DodgeZ]

http://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5251

[TurbododgePirate]

http://boostedmopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5251


Thanks for the link!!!!

[Directconnection]

I have a quaife set for the other car, and would love some sort of "posi" action for the car I am currently working on. Funds are extremely tight, though.

[BadAssPerformance]

I just got the OBX in my Shadow and it was the same, axles fit ok when it was on the bench, tight when in the car. Typical story... I think it is an alignment thing.

I took some 80 grit to the outer edges of the splines to make sure there were no burr son them, cleaned with brake cleaner and wiped out all the splines well with a paper towel, then put grease on it. I put the intermediate shaft in first with a few taps of the rubber mallet, then I fought with eth DS axle for a while, pushing, wiggling, etc. After soem cursing, sweating, etc, I took a 5 minute break, and then went back to it, and it went right in!

I think that the ID tolerances on the OBX are just a little on the underside and there is a very slight on center alignment discrepancy that is the issue.

[TurboGLH]

The problem is with the material they use to build the obx. It's too soft, so out of the box the axles drop in fine (on every single one) but when you press the bearings the ID decreases just a bit and the axles don't fit quite right anymore. We dissasemble every obx to check for broken springs as well as re-tap the bolts holes and retorques the fasteners, so while it's apart we press on the bearings and test fit both sides with a stub shaft. We have to remove some material from every one to get the axles to drop in but some require more than others. It's likely that the side in question didn't have quite enough material removed to allow for easy install of the axle. Glad that you got everything worked out in the end.


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