Patching holes in the floorboards

[The S is Silent]

I don't have access to a welder. It would be awesome...but it isn't likely to happen any time soon, so I've got to patch my shifter hole another way. I'm going to seal it with something and then use rivets to fix it in place.

My dad suggested "Cold Patch". Has anybody used this? Would it work?

I want it to seal well...but I also want it to clean up relatvely easily if I ever find somebody that can weld the hole up. What would work the best?

[BadAssPerformance]

Moved to fabrication forum... might be more useful info to archive here :thumb:

btw, never heard of 'cold patch' but if you rivet sheetmetal over the hole you can just use body filler (Bondo) to fill the seams...

[mo' parts]

i went the sheetmetal/rivet route on an 80 camaro way back when. i used the rubber underbody spray to seal it before installed and after to prevent rust. that spray can also be scraped off using a chisel.
hope it helps

[The S is Silent]

I'm going the J-B weld/rivet route on my charger. I figure I can always pry it apart and grind the JB weld off if I ever want to weld.

I'll look into the spray rubber...that sounds like a good idea for sealing the underside from rust.

[t3rse]

i have a welder....

[The S is Silent]

i have a welder....

:bang head:

I didn't even think to ask you. I already went ahead and did the rivet and JB weld thing. The one time that I stop procrastinating and it actually turns out worse for me. Anyways, it looks pretty good.

BTW...I have your exhaust manifold. I'll give you a call.

[mark]

how much jb weld did you use???

after welding mine up I used por15 and the fiberglass matt to cover any pinholes I left.

[The S is Silent]

I used about half a tube of it, and most of that I couldn't get out of the container I was mixing it in. It worked pretty well. It looks really good. Next time I get a chance, I'll get a picture. I really wish I had welded it...but I was able to do this myself, so It's not a terrible thing.

I've got a few more half empty tubes of JB that I'm going to mix up and seal any gaps from the bottom.

[Tony Hanna]

I was always a big fan of a liberal coat of metal roof paint to seal floorboard patches. The black fibrous stuff lasts forever, but it's a total pita to get back off. The aluminum stuff won't last as long, but it's easier to remove if you need to redo something later.

[shelbyplaya]

i use fiberglass. put about 3 or 4 layers on it, then i load up both sides with asvault under coating.... so far so good

[PentastarTurbo]

I used an adhesive thats used on cement, wood, metal, ect.. Then after its dried up for 24hrs I was cusrious just how hard of a bond this stuff states and beat it with a 5lb hammer and all it did was dent the metal itself a little along with some of the floor board around it.. stuck great! Then to seal things up I used some spray on noise deadening and coated it on both sides fairly heavy and its very hard core..
I'll shoot some pics tomorrow if I can remember..

[cams1021]

I would attach the sheet-metal piece with Lab-Metal.. then fill in the seams with some more when its done.

[Birddog]

I did the rivet/screw method to my 80 Cherokee and used a layer of fiberglass cloth laid into Hammerite paint(no resin). Took a while to cure but it was hard as a rock and watertight..

[Holley]

I used an adhesive thats used on cement, wood, metal, ect.. Then after its dried up for 24hrs I was cusrious just how hard of a bond this stuff states and beat it with a 5lb hammer and all it did was dent the metal itself a little along with some of the floor board around it.. stuck great!
Sounds like the stuff I use, here its called 'grip-fil'; I started using it when I worked at a truck garage - they use it to stick plastic sheeting onto coaches.

[W.P._Turbocars]

I hammered my rampage pans out of HVAC ducting and used POR-15 around where I had cut the pans out at. When I put the new pans in I got 2 tubes of black RVT and a rivet gun and went "to town". Seems to be holding up great.

Gary