Taking the Dash off: L Body

[skitzo_inc]

How difficult is it to take the dash out of an L body? I'm going to attempt to tackle the tach problem but am unsure of where to begin to take the dash out. I had most of it out to put the stereo in, but am unsure on where to go after that.

[cordes]

The whole dash, or just the cluster? Did you trouble shoot everything you could before deciding to take out the dash?

[skitzo_inc]

From posting here in another thread, they said that if the tach is working on and off it's the wires behind the cluster that need to be resoldered. What else could I troubleshoot?

[cordes]

I would try to pull the cluster and see if you can hook up a multimeter to the correct socket in the cluster plug to get a reading first. If that's bouncing around then I would start working back into the dash a little bit. I would also start working from the other side where the signal originates (does it come from the LM?) That way you won't pull the whole dash to find out it was in an easily accessible spot.

[skitzo_inc]

I wasn't aware that you could just pull the cluster out. I thought it all had to come out to get to the back of the cluster. How does one just take out the cluster?

[cordes]

There are two screws under the black plastic trim which need to be removed. Pull that off, pull off the odo reset knob by unscrewing it, and unscrew the cluster.

To get the cluster out you will need to reach your hand back behind it and pull off the speedo cable which isn't the easiest for me. You need to pinch the back side of it to get the mouth of the connector open. You will also need to pop off the two connectors. The cluster will now come out with some careful fanagaling.

[skitzo_inc]

Neat. That doesn't sound too terribly difficult. I will tackle that as soon as I get to my parents house. I'm going to try to take pictures and build a "how to".

[cordes]

Neat. That doesn't sound too terribly difficult. I will tackle that as soon as I get to my parents house. I'm going to try to take pictures and build a "how to".

That would be great for the KC.

[skitzo_inc]

okay, I got the cluster out. It really wasn't as difficult as i thought it was going to be here.
Here's a picture of the back of the cluster.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p302/skitzo_inc/CIMG4492.jpg
I know that the solder pieces they were talking about are on the right side of it. There are seven in a row, with two rows.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p302/skitzo_inc/CIMG4493.jpg
Which ones do I need to solder? We're going to check with the multimeter to see if it's getting power.

[bgbmxer]

when my guages did that it was the pins that the connector go onto were loose. i have no idea how to fix this though

[skitzo_inc]

Oh. I may be way off on what to solder then. The connecting pieces were loose?
These pieces?
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p302/skitzo_inc/CIMG4502.jpg
Or these pieces?
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p302/skitzo_inc/CIMG4491.jpg

[minigts]

okay, I got the cluster out. It really wasn't as difficult as i thought it was going to be here.
Here's a picture of the back of the cluster.
Pic here
I know that the solder pieces they were talking about are on the right side of it. There are seven in a row, with two rows.
Pic here
Which ones do I need to solder? We're going to check with the multimeter to see if it's getting power.

Usually the row of pins that are close together are the main culprits. Those look fine, but as Cordes stated, get the mulit-meter out and start testing for continuity from the tip of the pin to the other side of the board. The tach wire is grey/light blue (GY/LB). You could easily check that from the cluster to wherever it goes, I think through the firewall at the 40-way connector. If that's good, check THAT from the 40-way to the LM(???). The LM is behind the passenger side kick panel. But like I said, taking the soldering iron and just resting it on the tip of the pins will heat the solder up and then you can let it cool down. But I would double check that board while you have the cluster out.

[bgbmxer]

Usually the row of pins that are close together are the main culprits. Those look fine, but as Cordes stated, get the mulit-meter out and start testing for continuity from the tip of the pin to the other side of the board. The tach wire is grey/light blue (GY/LB). You could easily check that from the cluster to wherever it goes, I think through the firewall at the 40-way connector. If that's good, check THAT from the 40-way to the LM(???). The LM is behind the passenger side kick panel. But like I said, taking the soldering iron and just resting it on the tip of the pins will heat the solder up and then you can let it cool down. But I would double check that board while you have the cluster out.

+1:lol:

[skitzo_inc]

Usually the row of pins that are close together are the main culprits. Those look fine, but as Cordes stated, get the mulit-meter out and start testing for continuity from the tip of the pin to the other side of the board. The tach wire is grey/light blue (GY/LB). You could easily check that from the cluster to wherever it goes, I think through the firewall at the 40-way connector. If that's good, check THAT from the 40-way to the LM(???). The LM is behind the passenger side kick panel. But like I said, taking the soldering iron and just resting it on the tip of the pins will heat the solder up and then you can let it cool down. But I would double check that board while you have the cluster out.

I'm only slightly confused by this. We checked with the multimeter the piece that plugs into the cluster, and it tested fine. Was it just loose when plugged into the cluster? It works on and off, as stated before.

[bgbmxer]

I'm only slightly confused by this. We checked with the multimeter the piece that plugs into the cluster, and it tested fine. Was it just loose when plugged into the cluster? It works on and off, as stated before.

check the pins that protrude out the back of the circuit board to see if they are loose. this is where my problem was. hit the wrong bump and it would stop working. put in guages with pins that are tight and never had the problem again

check all of them not just for one plug

[black86glhs]

OK Paul, here are some pics that will help you.
You can solder the pins to the printed circuit. You heat the pins just enough to melt the solder. Make sure you use flux on the tracings around the pins so the solder will stick good. Use a very thin solder. Not the thick stuff like repairing a radiator.
Also, I reflowed all the connections on the board(added a small amount of solder while doing it). I'de rather fix them all and not take it back apart if I don't have to. Also, You can solder the back side of the rivets the same as the pins.

[skitzo_inc]

OK Paul, here are some pics that will help you.
You can solder the pins to the printed circuit. You heat the pins just enough to melt the solder. Make sure you use flux on the tracings around the pins so the solder will stick good. Use a very thin solder. Not the thick stuff like repairing a radiator.
Also, I reflowed all the connections on the board(added a small amount of solder while doing it). I'de rather fix them all and not take it back apart if I don't have to. Also, You can solder the back side of the rivets the same as the pins.

Thank you! Those pictures helped a lot. My dad is fixing the gutters on the house right now, and when he's done we are going to check the plug and freshen up the board. When we're done and it's all put together I will let everyone know how it worked out!

[skitzo_inc]

It's gotta wait for another day. We ran out of daylight and it's more important to fix the house than my Charger. I did take a lot of pictures on taking the cluster out, so I'll do a write up with the pictures when I finish it.

[87glhs]

Electrical solder, use rosin-core electrical solder.

[black86glhs]

Electrical solder, use rosin-core electrical solder.Yeah, no acid core.

[black86glhs]

Thank you! Those pictures helped a lot. My dad is fixing the gutters on the house right now, and when he's done we are going to check the plug and freshen up the board. When we're done and it's all put together I will let everyone know how it worked out!

Hey Paul, did the connectors come off really easy? If so, I also recommend you tweak the terminals so they fit on the pins tighter. Makes a big difference too.:thumb:

[skitzo_inc]

Hey Paul, did the connectors come off really easy? If so, I also recommend you tweak the terminals so they fit on the pins tighter. Makes a big difference too.:thumb:

The speedo cable came off really easy, but the other cables were stuck on really good.
I think we're going to attempt to do this again this weekend.