TD specific wheel spacers

[rbryant]

All,

I decided that I need some think 1/8" wheel spacers so that the center caps on my wheels don't get pushed off by the rear grease caps...

I am not happy with cast aluminum spacers that most places offer and I also don't like the ones that have holes for both 4x100 and 5x100 that cost $50.

Heck if they are going to be $50 for a simple aluminum plate they better at least have only the bolt pattern I want! Maybe I am picky about the principal of things but it means I am going to make some up for myself:

17031

Would anyone be interested in 1/8" spacers for $25 a pair and 1/4" for $35 a pair? These are from a solid piece of aluminum that fit exactly and tightly on the hub and studs not generic cast pieces that shift and slide around.

These would be raw unless I get enough orders to anodize them. It is $90 per lot to anodize so it wouldn't be worth it on a very small run of them unless everyone agrees to add $10-$15 per set...

These would also help cover up the ugly rotor centers that often show up behind our rims. I can probably also do a different outside diameter so they perfectly match the front and rear rotor hub sizes..

Any thicker than 1/4" and we would definitely need longer studs but I haven't verified if we would at 1/4" yet.

Thanks,

Rich

[contraption22]

This would be good. VW ones work, but the billet hubcentric spacers are much higher than your pricepoint.

[rbryant]

This would be good. VW ones work, but the billet hubcentric spacers are much higher than your pricepoint.

I ordered some VW ones that looked like my picture in the ebay add and they sent me ones with 4x100 and 5x100 holes in them.

Granted they would have worked fine but the misrepresentation of the item pissed me off so I sent them back. I had specifically looked for the ones without the 4x100 holes and that was what they sent me anyway! <sigh>

They really shouldn't be so expensive...

One other really weird thing I never noticed before is that 5x100 measurements are really strange... They aren't 5x100 center to center but have a really weird way of getting the 100mm measurement which I can't even remember after looking it up to draw them...

-Rich

[contraption22]

I got ones from Ichibausa.com. They are high quality, but very expensive.

[minigts]

I think I would be interested in a set, but definitely not anodized. Maybe there would be an option for that vs. just plain.

[Juggy]

IGranted they would have worked fine but the misrepresentation of the item pissed me off so I sent them back. I had specifically looked for the ones without the 4x100 holes and that was what they sent me anyway! <sigh>

:lol: dont get me started. i bought a IC pipe with the flange built in to it, and the ebay page Advertisted ONE PIECE CAST...and they went on and on about it. well i got a aluminum pipe with the flange WELDED onto it.

so i gave them negative feedback and i told them the only reason i bought it was because it was CAST one piece...and their reply...."well no one else complained" :mad:

anywho....im running spacers up front, the back would be nice! you really gotta bang those center caps on!

id be down with rear 1/8 and front 5/16
anodized would be cool!

[JDAWG]

http://www.mrt-wheels.com/baseimages/5lug.jpg

[rbryant]

http://www.mrt-wheels.com/baseimages/5lug.jpg

Yea that is it...

It is just weird because everything else is center to center.

-Rich

[rbryant]

I think I would be interested in a set, but definitely not anodized. Maybe there would be an option for that vs. just plain.

I think I will probably just do plain.

Unless I have another order of camber plates or something where I can just throw them in without paying extra...

-Rich

[minigts]

http://www.mrt-wheels.com/baseimages/5lug.jpg


Yea that is it...

It is just weird because everything else is center to center.

-Rich

THIS is retarded.

[turbovanman²]

What about hubcentric with bolts added, 20+mm thick. The one's I bought off Ebay are garbage, I have a wheel wobble I can't get rid of unless I don't run them, :mad:

[minigts]

What about hubcentric with bolts added, 20+mm thick. The one's I bought off Ebay are garbage, I have a wheel wobble I can't get rid of unless I don't run them, :mad:

I think for the price and lack of trying to "engineer" something, these would work well. Aren't we trying to keep our cars from looking or being ghetto? ;) Direct fitment is a plus and worth a few extra dollars.

[turbovanman²]

I think for the price and lack of trying to "engineer" something, these would work well. Aren't we trying to keep our cars from looking or being ghetto? ;) Direct fitment is a plus and worth a few extra dollars.

Spacers with bolts are well engineered and a nice alternative to buying new rims. They just need to be made by someone who cares.

Yo

[minigts]

Spacers with bolts are well engineered and a nice alternative to buying new rims. They just need to be made by someone who cares.

Yo

Yo Mama!

[rbryant]

What about hubcentric with bolts added, 20+mm thick. The one's I bought off Ebay are garbage, I have a wheel wobble I can't get rid of unless I don't run them, :mad:

Once you go 20mm thick if you want to do it right you have to CNC them because you want to add the hub centric rim back into them. These are cheap because they are just flat pieces of metal.

I could make them (or have someone make them) but it would cost much more plus the bolt costs...

-Rich

[turbovanman²]

Once you go 20mm thick if you want to do it right you have to CNC them because you want to add the hub centric rim back into them. These are cheap because they are just flat pieces of metal.

I could make them (or have someone make them) but it would cost much more plus the bolt costs...

-Rich

Can you get a ball park price? I can reuse the old bolts out of my junk ones.

[trbowgn]

I am down for a set of 1/8" let me know when you need to be paid.
I feel like my rims sit to far in mostly in the back.
thanks,

[rbryant]

Can you get a ball park price? I can reuse the old bolts out of my junk ones.

What is the problem with your junk ones? Are the hub centric parts not snug or something?

I am not sure the demand would really warrant me doing the more complex ones. They would be much more expensive and you are probably better off just buying some VW units...

The thicker plates have a much bigger liability than the thin ones too.

-Rich

[rbryant]

I am down for a set of 1/8" let me know when you need to be paid.
I feel like my rims sit to far in mostly in the back.
thanks,

Let me take a look at the actual outer diameters I would want and I can then send them off to the shop. I want them to cover up the ugly rotor centers and not overhang so I need to double check that in the front and back rotors.

-Rich

[turbovanman²]

What is the problem with your junk ones? Are the hub centric parts not snug or something?

I am not sure the demand would really warrant me doing the more complex ones. They would be much more expensive and you are probably better off just buying some VW units...

The thicker plates have a much bigger liability than the thin ones too.

-Rich

Just not machined properly I guess. I had rings made as they weren't hub centric, didn't clue in about that until I bought them, it helped but still off.

Ok, don't worry about it, thanks anyways, :thumb:

[johnl]

I have 1/8" multi hole plates and I think think the stud length is marginal, but that is with the Fiero Wheels on the GLHT. So, you may well need longer studs at 1/4"

[Vigo]

Id like to point out that i think we really only need good options for the front since in the rear its easier and imo better to just put a spacer behind the backing plate. They dont have to be pretty, precise, or anything, and most people could make their own if they wanted to.

I think personally that hubcentric spacers that leave enough hub sticking above for wheels to STAY hubcentric are the only thing we really need at a cheap price point. Anything more than that and there's almost no chance of getting anyone to do a special low-volume run just for us.

so rock on!

[rbryant]

Id like to point out that i think we really only need good options for the front since in the rear its easier and imo better to just put a spacer behind the backing plate. They dont have to be pretty, precise, or anything, and most people could make their own if they wanted to.

I think personally that hubcentric spacers that leave enough hub sticking above for wheels to STAY hubcentric are the only thing we really need at a cheap price point. Anything more than that and there's almost no chance of getting anyone to do a special low-volume run just for us.

so rock on!

Hmm I bet that it would be better to make a spacer with a big hole in the center of it and a custom hub centric spacer than to CNC the whole thing as one piece.

I have some plastic hub centric spacers that work just fine but as you stated once you space things out they no loner work properly.

I will see what I can do about making custom hub centric spacers to go along with the plates.

Most manufacturers are building wheels with a 70mm center IIRC so hopefully I would only have to make one size(57.1mm to 70mm)....

If people are running other sizes that makes for more complexities... :)

-Rich

[minigts]

Id like to point out that i think we really only need good options for the front since in the rear its easier and imo better to just put a spacer behind the backing plate. They dont have to be pretty, precise, or anything, and most people could make their own if they wanted to.

I think personally that hubcentric spacers that leave enough hub sticking above for wheels to STAY hubcentric are the only thing we really need at a cheap price point. Anything more than that and there's almost no chance of getting anyone to do a special low-volume run just for us.

so rock on!

I think the rear is a valid point. They could still be made, just cut to fit the 4 bolt up deal in the back. Can I vote for that option? ;)

[rbryant]

I think the rear is a valid point. They could still be made, just cut to fit the 4 bolt up deal in the back. Can I vote for that option? ;)

Those already exist from omnipotent. They make them and I am not trying to step on that product at all. :)

The fronts aren't that simple. I also need the rears because my center caps won't quite fit due to the grease cap spacing so I still need a small spacer on the hubs.

The omnipotent spacers are better for widening your track the hub spacers are needed on the front and for my specific issue on the rear.

-Rich

[Vigo]

Ive had that issue as well.. some wheels need it, some wheels dont. It'd be nice for those who do need it to have that option!

This should be MUCH more straightforward than the camber plates! :p

[rbryant]

Ive had that issue as well.. some wheels need it, some wheels dont. It'd be nice for those who do need it to have that option!

This should be MUCH more straightforward than the camber plates! :p

Yea they are quite simple if you keep them to just plates with holes in them. :)

I will take a look at making some hub centrics that expect the plate to be pushed out. I think they can be a 2 piece design and still work great.

To be truely hub centric the hub spacer must fully engage in both the wheel and the hub so that is the challenge although not really that much of one once you get the taper right. :)

-Rich

[Vigo]

hmm, well how much of the hub sticks up past the rotor? If the thickness of the spacer is only, say, half of that height, you wouldnt need to add anything to it.

But i dont know that number. I guess you're saying that these spacers would be thick enough that you'd have to build a 'hub extension' into them to keep the wheels hubcentric?

[rbryant]

hmm, well how much of the hub sticks up past the rotor? If the thickness of the spacer is only, say, half of that height, you wouldnt need to add anything to it.



Yes I looked at things last night and I feel that at 1/8" it will not require anything special. The taper in the hub spacer is so slight that even if it is only half used it is fine.




But i dont know that number. I guess you're saying that these spacers would be thick enough that you'd have to build a 'hub extension' into them to keep the wheels hubcentric?

Exactly. the hubs don't stick out far enough to work with a thicker spacer.

Something would have to be done. I think I would probably just make the hole really big in the spacer and then make a custom hub centric spacer that is extra thick.

The only issue there is that the hub spacer should really stay in the wheel not fall out or have to stay on the hub. I suppose they could be spot welded or something. Or more expensively made as a piece where the spacer/ring stay in the wheel.

Remember that hub centric rings are only function as guides though. They are just there so that you get the wheel centered properly. They don't actually hole the weight. The weight is really held more by the clamping force of the wheel against the rotor and rotor against the hub backing.

The friction at the clamping surface is holding the wheel on just as much as the studs are and the hub centric ring is not responsible for that even though people sometimes market them that way.

-Rich

[Vigo]

Yeh, i was aware of that, but someone else might not be so :)

I see what you are saying about an extra thick hubcentric spacer now. That would work great for aftermarket wheels.

I still see a problem for someone who may want to space out stock wheels that actually are no bigger than the stock hub, but thats probably a small percentage of people who'd be looking at these.

As for the rings sticking to the wheel or hub, the plastic rings you can get from discount tire are made of plastic and slightly spring-loaded (i dont know a better term, there are no springs) on the outside so they stick into the wheel when you take them off. obviously that'd be more difficult in metal.

But i should say i dont think hubcentric rings are absolutely essential, i've rarely used them and NEVER felt that i needed them. Imo its usually when people zip on the lug nuts and tighten them in the first pass with an impact that the wheel gets stuck off-center. in my experience if you go around slow and tighten each one a bit until you cant see the wheel shifting any more, and then torque them down, the wheel never wobbles.

[turbovanman²]

Yeh, i was aware of that, but someone else might not be so :)

I see what you are saying about an extra thick hubcentric spacer now. That would work great for aftermarket wheels.

I still see a problem for someone who may want to space out stock wheels that actually are no bigger than the stock hub, but thats probably a small percentage of people who'd be looking at these.

As for the rings sticking to the wheel or hub, the plastic rings you can get from discount tire are made of plastic and slightly spring-loaded (i dont know a better term, there are no springs) on the outside so they stick into the wheel when you take them off. obviously that'd be more difficult in metal.

But i should say i dont think hubcentric rings are absolutely essential, i've rarely used them and NEVER felt that i needed them. Imo its usually when people zip on the lug nuts and tighten them in the first pass with an impact that the wheel gets stuck off-center. in my experience if you go around slow and tighten each one a bit until you cant see the wheel shifting any more, and then torque them down, the wheel never wobbles.

The stock wheels are designed for a hub to center them, some stockers and aftermarket wheels are not, IE the Rota's, they don't need to be hubcentric, they are very smooth with my slicks, vs some vibration with the stockers using non hubcentric spacers.

[Vigo]

but if your spacers are ones that have their own studs, thats a whole different ballgame because the stud pattern might be a little off and no hub centering can fix that.

[87DaytonaPac]

This idea seems to be suffering from feature creep so I am guessing this project has lost momentum. I also have aftermarket wheels and can't put the center caps on due to the grease caps. Searching for solutions is what brought me to this thread.

Here's one thing that popped into my head while reading this. If adding an 1/8th inch spacer is all that's needed to make the aftermarket wheel centercap fit, would it be possible to just shorten the grease cap instead? Cut out a slice and reweld it. Or something like that. It might be simpler overall that using spacers and worrying about those hubcentric rims etc...

Edited to add: I don't have a welder otherwise I'd try it and let y'all know.

[Vigo]

Actually the easiest thing by that thinking is to just smash it in with a hammer 1/8. Ive done it. Not for those reasons though!


but if your spacers are ones that have their own studs, thats a whole different ballgame because the stud pattern might be a little off and no hub centering can fix that.

I retract that statement because when i redrilled my rear disc setup for 5x114.3 and it wasnt perfect, hubcentric rings DID fix it.

[87DaytonaPac]

Actually the easiest thing by that thinking is to just smash it in with a hammer 1/8. Ive done it. Not for those reasons though

I could certainly burn one to try. One thing that might cause problems would be if it ballooned out.

[rbryant]

This idea seems to be suffering from feature creep so I am guessing this project has lost momentum. I also have aftermarket wheels and can't put the center caps on due to the grease caps. Searching for solutions is what brought me to this thread.

Here's one thing that popped into my head while reading this. If adding an 1/8th inch spacer is all that's needed to make the aftermarket wheel centercap fit, would it be possible to just shorten the grease cap instead? Cut out a slice and reweld it. Or something like that. It might be simpler overall that using spacers and worrying about those hubcentric rims etc...

Edited to add: I don't have a welder otherwise I'd try it and let y'all know.

I plan on making them still. I just have a second run of camber plates that is taking priority this week.

The grease cap pretty much as to be stock height to clear the axle stub/nut.

The easier solution that I tried is to take it off and hit it with a hammer to swish it down a little. Unfortunately they quickly run into the axle stub and nut.

-Rich

[87DaytonaPac]

The grease cap pretty much as to be stock height to clear the axle stub/nut.

The easier solution that I tried is to take it off and hit it with a hammer to swish it down a little. Unfortunately they quickly run into the axle stub and nut.

-Rich

Well in that case, I guess you can mark me down for a pair of spacers as well.

--Paul

[ShelGame]

FWIW, I just bought 2 pair of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120354119841&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT) for my Daytona...

[87DaytonaPac]

I was actually considering a pair of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110449843706&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

[fuzz's84Daytona]

I've made several sets of the 1/4" ones for our cars and vans and there are no known issues when it comes to having enough stud length. I got bored at work and started making them one day, all the guys around here saw them and wanted some sets so far so good. I think anyone will be safe with up to a 1/4" max. and you would be surprised at the difference it makes in appearance.

[johnl]

Seems as if the hub centric lip is redundant, given that you have five tapered wheel nuts on studs that, presumably, are located correctly.

Proper assembly procedure would be important. If you just hang the weight of the wheel on the studs and then tightened one nut too hard so that it locks the wheel down in a slightly off center locations, well then yeah, it'll be off center. If you slightly snug each tapered nut down, and unweight or jiggle the wheel as you do it, so the tapers can "find" themselves, and your nuts and wheels have no galling on the tapered surfaces, then it ought to tighten up on center.

What do I have wrong?

[87DaytonaPac]

I'm inclined to agree with johnl. It seems that many (including myself) have heard that you need those hubcentric rings for support or for proper centering. At first I believed that but now I don't. Here's why:

If the hubcentric ring was needed for support, then why would the majority of the ones available on the market be made from plastic? Just that fact would lead me to believe that the only value of those rings would be for centering. But even for centering purposes, I think it would ONLY be needed if you were using a wheel with a flat lug hole (like Toyota?) that provides no centering ability of its own. That's why, the hubcentric rings you see have a conical shape. They do the job of centring the wheel. The hubcentric area on our cars are flat. They aren't responsible for centring because the lug nuts do that. My theory then is that the hubs on our cars and (OEM) wheels are they way they are to make putting the wheel on 1) easier 2) more foolproof (so someone doesn't wrench the lugs down with the thing grossly out of center).

So really, all it comes down to is what method is being used to center the wheel: hubring or lug nuts. If you use one, then IMO you don't need to use the other.

So, that said, I believe that for our cars, no rings are needed as long as the wheels have conical lug holes and you pay attention while putting them on. It's a little harder to hang the wheels on the hub but that's the only negative I've noticed (and that is why I think the factory stuff was hubcentric AND had conical lug holes). You MUST be careful to make sure the lug nuts are centering the wheel as Johnl said. To that end, I put a super thin coat of bearing grease on the nut cone.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a mechanic, mechanical engineer, wheel designer or even a particularly bright guy. My conclusions are based ONLY on my experiences and observations. YMMV, I assume no liability, etc. etc.

[signsoflife22]

So, as I look for a new set of wheels, I should be sure that they are 5 X 100? This would be for my 87 GLHS "L" body car. I just don't want to order the wrong wheels.
And, once I convert the car to the SLH brake package, It'll have 90 Caravan frt discs and 90 LeBaron GTC rear discs. Is this still the 5 X 100 pattern that I'll be needing for all four wheels?
Thanks for any answers here.
Regards,
Donnie

[rbryant]

I got some prototype wheel spacers done with my last round of waterjet parts.

I will post up some pictures tomorrow.

Is anyone currently interested in a set of 1/8" or 1/4" spacers?

1/8" would be around $25 a pair and 1/4" would be around $35 a pair.

Shipping would be $5 or so.

-Rich

[Vigo]

I pretty much agree on the lug nuts thing but i would still prefer to have some hubcentric rings to be racing over 100mph.

Ive got hubcentric rings on the back of my aries and not on the front, almost brand new tires, and it still isnt perfectly smooth at 100. Id like to do Texas Mile sometime and see what i can get it up to, but i wonder what itll feel like at 140+ if it's already not smooth at 100? Id get hubcrentric rings before i try, personally.

[rbryant]

I pretty much agree on the lug nuts thing but i would still prefer to have some hubcentric rings to be racing over 100mph.

Ive got hubcentric rings on the back of my aries and not on the front, almost brand new tires, and it still isnt perfectly smooth at 100. Id like to do Texas Mile sometime and see what i can get it up to, but i wonder what itll feel like at 140+ if it's already not smooth at 100? Id get hubcrentric rings before i try, personally.

The rings are just for quick centering without having to pay attention and the lugs are really what holds the wheel centered.

If you are careful when you align the lugs then they will center up just fine.

The rings do help prevent idiots from putting the rim on with an impact when it it isn't centered on the lugs. If that is done then they can all be tightened off center but it would take either effort or idiocy.

The reason I wanted to make them hub centered was more to prevent someone from screwing up.

-Rich

[rx2mazda]

i'm in for a set of 1/4"

[87DaytonaPac]

I'd take a pair of 1/8" spacers.

[minigts]

Rich please stop making awesome cool stuff and tempting me to buy these things!!!! Thinking about the 1/4" spacers.

[turbovanman²]

The rings are just for quick centering without having to pay attention and the lugs are really what holds the wheel centered.

If you are careful when you align the lugs then they will center up just fine.

The rings do help prevent idiots from putting the rim on with an impact when it it isn't centered on the lugs. If that is done then they can all be tightened off center but it would take either effort or idiocy.

The reason I wanted to make them hub centered was more to prevent someone from screwing up.

-Rich

Not true, the hubs center the wheels on our cars and the rims aren't designed to be centered using the lug nuts. How do I know this, I have bolt on adapters that aren't hub centric and I can't get rid of the vibration, I checked runout and yep, they have run out, remove spacers, no runout. You can position the wheel in numerous spots with the lug nuts. This applies to mags not steel wheels.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Not true, the hubs center the wheels on our cars and the rims aren't designed to be centered using the lug nuts. How do I know this, I have bolt on adapters that aren't hub centric and I can't get rid of the vibration, I checked runout and yep, they have run out, remove spacers, no runout. You can position the wheel in numerous spots with the lug nuts. This applies to mags not steel wheels.

I disagree
I have wheel spacers with 3" arp studs w/ fiero wheels that don't touch the hub center and have no vibration @ 130mph

[turbovanman²]

I disagree
I have wheel spacers with 3" arp studs w/ fiero wheels that don't touch the hub center and have no vibration @ 130mph

What wheels are you using, FIERO wheels, not stock wheels. :p

[rbryant]

Ok I will post the pictures tonight.

I had mine anodized with the last set of camber plates for the heck of it because it was free to add them to the lot. In general they won't be anodized and I am not sure if it will hold up well with the wheel heat anyway...

I will add them to the suspension page with paypal buttons. It might take a week or two to get more cut and ship them.

I won't be using the 1/4" set for myself and I have 4 of them that were anodized. Carroll appears to be the first one to want a 1/4" set so he gets dibs on either 1 pair or two pairs of the hard black anodized ones for $35 a pair. Or of course if he doesn't want black anodized then I can make plain ones.

-Rich

[Vigo]

I dunno much about the anodizing but Pontiac anodized some factory wheels for a ws6 package so im sure it CAN be reasonably durable.

Cant wait to see the pics.

[johnl]

Rich, am I wrong, doesn't 1/4" requires longer studs? and 1/8' can get away with stock studs?

[rbryant]

Rich, am I wrong, doesn't 1/4" requires longer studs? and 1/8' can get away with stock studs?

Yes I believe that 1/8" should be ok with stock studs although I still recommend upgrading them.

1/4" will absolutely require longer studs.

-Rich

[rbryant]

Here are the pictures I promised.


20366

20367

I also added them to the suspension page.

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/suspension_products.htm

I have a couple of sets in stock. The rest will take a week or so to make.

It sounds like I should be able to sell atleast 5 pairs of 1/8" and I have 2 pairs of 1/4" in stock ready to go.

-Rich

[janus]

so, has anyone tried these at high-speeds? don't want to trade my autobahn rides for a better stance with those spacers :p ;)

[1FastCSX289]

Yes I believe that 1/8" should be ok with stock studs although I still recommend upgrading them.

1/4" will absolutely require longer studs.

-Rich

Just an "FYI"......I used 1/4 spacers on my CSX and instead of changing the studs, I used long shank lug nuts and they seem to be working just fine. I wouldnt want to vouch for them in every situation, but they are holding my repro-fiberide (aka "gazeride") wheels in place without issue.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-68137L/

[Vigo]

I didnt know those existed!! Thanks for the info!

[rbryant]

Just an "FYI"......I used 1/4 spacers on my CSX and instead of changing the studs, I used long shank lug nuts and they seem to be working just fine. I wouldnt want to vouch for them in every situation, but they are holding my repro-fiberide (aka "gazeride") wheels in place without issue.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-68137L/

Will they fit between the wheel and stud on our stock wheels? My spacers are tight to the stud so they would have to be enlarged with a step drill to fit them.

The other issues is that people would have to be careful to make sure that they don't bottom out the sleeve against the spacer. Without touching the tapered part on the wheel or the wheels would not be attached properly.

-Rich

[Vigo]

I was kinda guessing you'd have to enlarge the holes slightly to fit them. Im curious about this as well.

[rbryant]

I just got a new batch of the 1/8" spacers in so I am ready for orders:

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/suspension_products.htm

Thanks,

Rich

[1FastCSX289]

Will they fit between the wheel and stud on our stock wheels? My spacers are tight to the stud so they would have to be enlarged with a step drill to fit them.

The other issues is that people would have to be careful to make sure that they don't bottom out the sleeve against the spacer. Without touching the tapered part on the wheel or the wheels would not be attached properly.

-Rich

I havent tried them with a stock wheel......just the Pontiac rims I used for my fiberide look a likes. But, yes, you would have to check thos things before you went driving around on them. With my set up they happen to work, but I wouldnt vouch for them in all situations. But, im sure you could MAKE them work with whatever wheel you use.

[rbryant]

So nobody that said they wanted the 1/8" spacers is actually going to pony up and order them? :)

-Rich

[ohlarikd]

I've been looking for new 16x7 rims for a long time and can never get the right 'look' and offset. I found some that I finally like with a 40mm offset. I think a 5mm spacer will get me the virtual 35mm offset and will place them exactly where I want them, so I am watching this thread.

If I need to get longer hub bolts, how do the old ones get removed and the new ones get put in? I haven't taken it apart yet, but I imagine they are press fit?

Derek

[rbryant]

I've been looking for new 16x7 rims for a long time and can never get the right 'look' and offset. I found some that I finally like with a 40mm offset. I think a 5mm spacer will get me the virtual 35mm offset and will place them exactly where I want them, so I am watching this thread.

If I need to get longer hub bolts, how do the old ones get removed and the new ones get put in? I haven't taken it apart yet, but I imagine they are press fit?

Derek

Yes you will need longer studs with a 5mm spacer. They come out by smacking them with a BFH. They go back in by drawing them through with the lugnut.

I have 3.18mm (1/8") and 6.35mm (1/4") spacers in stock and ready to ship.

With the 1/8" spacers you don't need longer studs. They should also allow you to run 225 tires without a problem.

-Rich

[86Shelby]

So nobody that said they wanted the 1/8" spacers is actually going to pony up and order them? :)

-Rich

Order is placed. Now I can stop giving my grease caps & centercaps the finger every time I walk by my car. Thank you!

[rbryant]

Order is placed. Now I can stop giving my grease caps & centercaps the finger every time I walk by my car. Thank you!

Thanks dude I will ship them out tomorrow.

-Rich

[badandy]

I'm looking for wheels now...spacers may be in order (and on order!).

[rbryant]

I'm looking for wheels now...spacers may be in order (and on order!).

I have them ready to ship whenever you need them.

-Rich