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bgbmxer
08-14-2009, 11:18 AM
well i figured i would start putting up some pictures of my project so far since i actually have some pictures of some of the work being done on the car. progress is super slow due to being laid off but will have a cash flow again soon hopefully. the goal is to build this car so i can go race it almost anywhere. gonna do most of the shakedown stuff at local autocross events and then would like to do hillclimbs and road race events in the future and after that targa newfoundland. thats about all i have to say for now i guess. let the questions pour in

k frame mods
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4220356.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4220357.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4220358.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4220359.jpg

spindle before
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4090345.jpg

after
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4130351.jpg

turbo choice
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P4170354.jpg

sketch of what it will look like someday
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2050313.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2050312.jpg

bgbmxer
08-14-2009, 11:33 AM
my progress so far is the car is gutted and has two seats a shifter and dash. had to remove everything for weight floor pan repair and a cage. front k frame fab work is done with all poly bushings.

rear suspension modification is next which will include boxing in the rear swingarm and connecting the two hubs too each other as well.

shortblock is on the engine cradle its a stock t2 bottom end with forged crank and rods cast pistons still. head is gonna be a ported +1mm eight valve and the power goal is 300 or more horse on E85. turbo is a 60trim t3 off a ford

trans is a 555 but does not have a lsd in it yet and will probably end up going to a 523 so i can put the obx in it. its gonna be rod shifted heim setup either way.

suspension u can see some of the pictures. for now its just kyb gr2s with auto-x springs on them until i buy koni coil overs

1BADVAN
08-14-2009, 12:06 PM
Looks Good! I want to ask why the heim set up? Why not convert to cables

dr_amx
08-14-2009, 12:43 PM
Looks great. How do you plan on getting the car that low and still have lots of suspension left to do autox/hill climb?

Mario
08-14-2009, 12:50 PM
Looks Good! I want to ask why the heim set up? Why not convert to cables

A lot more rigid / solid. Will last a very long time. Can't burn rods...you can burn cables. :o

Also, you don't have to cut up the car.

bgbmxer
08-14-2009, 01:26 PM
basically im going rods because they dont make new cables so im just using used parts where as if i use rods and rod ends then its new. im not concerned with cutting it up i have never been a purist. the antenna has already been taken out so it can be shaved but will still work lol


and the ride height not sure how low im gonna run it but coil overs are adjustable. it has 16s so clearance will be an isssue i assume

and the car shouldnt be having alot of body roll so that helps on the lowering of the car also

Mario
08-14-2009, 02:27 PM
Last time I checked the dealer they do....

bgbmxer
08-14-2009, 02:37 PM
Last time I checked the dealer they do....

yeah at like 200 a piece? i can build a heim setup for that

Mario
08-14-2009, 02:56 PM
They are less than that. Anyways, I'm not going to sit here and argue. Simply stating that they ARE available. You stated the reason you are going this route is because they are NOT.

bgbmxer
08-14-2009, 04:21 PM
They are less than that. Anyways, I'm not going to sit here and argue. Simply stating that they ARE available. You stated the reason you are going this route is because they are NOT.

get me prices lol and i might consider it. but they wear out where as the heim setup will outlast the car. for the 520 and 555 the heim is not hard to do where as on the 523 568 cables might be easier

supercrackerbox
08-14-2009, 05:16 PM
Trust me, you won't regret the heim setup.

In fact, you may never want to drive another cable shifted car again.

bgbmxer
08-14-2009, 06:39 PM
Trust me, you won't regret the heim setup.

In fact, you may never want to drive another cable shifted car again.


my thoughts exactly. has anyone made a heim setup for the 523/568

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 08:34 PM
ok im debating on which lsd to get for this car since im going to have to buy one. anyone have any actual facts on which one to buy for this application obx or quafie

rosie
09-13-2009, 08:51 PM
You're fine with the hiem joint set up. I bought a new set of rods and they worked like crap. I bought some used rods except this time used the clip that mopar made to keep them from popping off and never had a problem. Hiem joint set up came later and I like it even better BUT I prefer my cable shifting 568 over the hiem joint shifted 525. Don't have a comparison for a hiem jointed 568...:blah:

And good thinking on welding up the Kframe....
First one is on the charger (I can post more if interested) and the other 3 is from the Omni. :o

There is one more spot that I will suggest welding/re enforcing. Hard to describe but it's the point where the strut and frame meet. I'll post a pic. I now have 3 L body's where this seperated and destroyed the camber settings for good unless realigned on a frame rack.:mad:

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 09:07 PM
You're fine with the hiem joint set up. I bought a new set of rods and they worked like crap. I bought some used rods except this time used the clip that mopar made to keep them from popping off and never had a problem. Hiem joint set up came later and I like it even better BUT I prefer my cable shifting 568 over the hiem joint shifted 525. Don't have a comparison for a hiem jointed 568...:blah:

And good thinking on welding up the Kframe....
First one is on the charger (I can post more if interested) and the other 3 is from the Omni. :o

There is one more spot that I will suggest welding/re enforcing. Hard to describe but it's the point where the strut and frame meet. I'll post a pic. I now have 3 L body's where this seperated and destroyed the camber settings for good unless realigned on a frame rack.:mad:

ok i will have to do that and the point of welding up the k fame wasnt to keep it from braking just to reduce flex and twisting. im doing alot to the rear swingarm to stiffen it up as well. i dont know when i will be able to strengthen up the are you just showed me since the car is not mobile and cant get to a welder since it outside but when i get ready to put the cage in i can always drop the k frame again i guess

thefitisgay
09-13-2009, 09:09 PM
why a bunch of small welds on the k frame instead of one big continuous weld?

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 09:13 PM
why a bunch of small welds on the k frame instead of one big continuous weld?

because its not needed structurally there is more than enough welds on that thing to keep it from moving ever again. also one big continuous weld will warp it and or melt it if not allowed to cool. the key thing is to have welds and supports in the right places and there is alot u cant see that got welded

thefitisgay
09-13-2009, 09:18 PM
ooooo id like to weld up the k frames on my cars but i have a flux core welder and i dont have the k frames off the cars....

heh best way to describe it is that song by nirvana.... theres something in the way mmmmmmmm

id like to weld the whole unibody shut ya know to help all the spot welds like that one guy was doing to his daytona but im iffy about welding chromoly... and i have a lack of track car body lol

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 09:25 PM
ooooo id like to weld up the k frames on my cars but i have a flux core welder and i dont have the k frames off the cars....

heh best way to describe it is that song by nirvana.... theres something in the way mmmmmmmm

id like to weld the whole unibody shut ya know to help all the spot welds like that one guy was doing to his daytona but im iffy about welding chromoly... and i have a lack of track car body lol

take the k fame out and weld it but dont breathe that crap in galvanized is horrible for you and guess what the k fame is galvinized lol

thefitisgay
09-13-2009, 09:33 PM
oooooo maybe one of the gas masks i bought years ago will come in handy your sayin?

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 09:36 PM
here is a picture of one of the pieces we made for the rear swingarm to box it in now just gotta weld it on and then also gonna weld a piece of tubing to connect both rear spindles together
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8040399.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8040400.jpg

what u guys think

thefitisgay
09-13-2009, 09:40 PM
thats pretty... i would have just used a solid peice.... but i am pretty lazy

way to keep the unsprung weight to a minimum :thumb:

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 09:44 PM
thats pretty... i would have just used a solid peice.... but i am pretty lazy

way to keep the unsprung weight to a minimum :thumb:

tryin to keep the weight down lol helps my dad is a machinist and my old neighbor is doing the welding so i get it a little cheaper than most. all this work and the car still sits on blocks lol

thefitisgay
09-13-2009, 09:53 PM
i was thinking about an aluminum axle the other day but i was thinking it might not be lighter for the required strength lol

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 09:55 PM
i was thinking about an aluminum axle the other day but i was thinking it might not be lighter for the required strength lol

u thought right

thefitisgay
09-13-2009, 09:57 PM
well its gotta look cooler right? or does ricer math not count here...

bgbmxer
09-13-2009, 10:10 PM
well its gotta look cooler right? or does ricer math not count here...

lol if u make it looked brushed like brushed aluminum yeah

bgbmxer
09-16-2009, 12:19 AM
progress for the day. elongated the holes in the struts so i can get more camber for the daytona knuckles. we might have taken to much out but there is always more room to get more camber i guess. now need to get some welding done to make the camber adjustment bolts to work since they no longer touch the part of the strut that they used to

on another note the rear suspension should be going out to get sand blasted this weekend and then the welding will comence. fun fun

bgbmxer
09-19-2009, 12:36 PM
some new progress pictures

camber slots elongated and i can still use the stock eccentric bolts which makes me happy.

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8080402.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8090403.jpg
big brakes :thumb:
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8090404.jpg

bgbmxer
09-19-2009, 01:50 PM
im waiting for all the questions of why i did all that to the struts lol

thefitisgay
09-19-2009, 07:15 PM
HEY! whyd you butcher up a perfectly pretty strut... ya weirdo!

bgbmxer
09-19-2009, 07:38 PM
HEY! whyd you butcher up a perfectly pretty strut... ya weirdo!

we didnt "butcher" it lol we put it in the mill lol. the reason is that the daytona spindles have more caster into them then the stock L bodys.

whats most people do is just use the bolts off the lbody in the spindle without putting sleeves in the holes which means the top and bottom both have enough play to give the correct camber. BUT

i sleeved the holes so that the stock l body camber bolts so i dont have enough slop to get to where the regular L bodys knuckle sits camber wise so i had to grund the back of the knuckle as shown in pictures before which also meant that i had to elongate the hole to get the camber as well

in doing all that the eccentric bolt had nothing to push against since its to far away at this point so we put a piece of metal there so i will be able to adjust it again


these people are really gonna flip when i have to do it to koni coil overs lol

bgbmxer
09-20-2009, 10:54 PM
swing arm is back from blast and i have figured out where im going to be mounting the mount for the brake line to the rear calipers. going to the fab shop tomorrow hopefully. more pictures to come

thefitisgay
09-20-2009, 11:53 PM
these people are really gonna flip when i have to do it to koni coil overs lol

thats why you just do the wrx front struts :thumb:

cheap rules over all lol

bgbmxer
09-21-2009, 08:16 AM
thats why you just do the wrx front struts :thumb:

cheap rules over all lol

never even heard of anyone doing that. either way im going coil overs

bgbmxer
09-21-2009, 07:49 PM
spent a full 8 hours cutting out pieces to be welded onto the rear swingarm. cut off the circular looking swaybar thing to make room for the piece fabricated above. didnt realize how uch flex this thing actually had in it and how much its not gonna have when its done. i hope to get most of the work done on it tomorrow but im not guarenteeing it

thefitisgay
09-22-2009, 01:11 AM
you mean the tube htat goes down the middle of the axle u channel?

bgbmxer
09-22-2009, 08:37 AM
you mean the tube htat goes down the middle of the axle u channel?

yes it has been removed. for the piece with all the holes in it to be welded in to box off the u channel

bgbmxer
09-22-2009, 09:34 PM
pictures of the rear suspension. me likey

god there is alot of work in this dam thing.

big thanks to Millers Welding and Fabrication for this and all of the other welding shown in ththis build thread.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130405.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130406.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130407.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130408.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130409.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130410.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130411.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130412.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130413.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130414.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130415.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130416.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130417.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130418.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8130419.jpg

thefitisgay
09-22-2009, 11:28 PM
in all honesty i think they hold corners better with alot of play in the rear bushings....

and if you did that much work why didnt you just weld some hiem joints on there so you can really dial that ------ in?

bgbmxer
09-23-2009, 01:26 AM
in all honesty i think they hold corners better with alot of play in the rear bushings....

and if you did that much work why didnt you just weld some hiem joints on there so you can really dial that ------ in?

then why do people put on swaybars if they wanted play. hiem joints? hmm if i was going to just turn left i would think about that i guess

thefitisgay
09-23-2009, 07:51 PM
sway bars stop body roll

im talking about the rear axle sliding from side to side so it steers with both front and rear wheels

and no im not trying to say everyone should do this and im not also saying its a good or bad idea im just saying it might be worth exploring

bgbmxer
09-23-2009, 08:59 PM
sway bars stop body roll

im talking about the rear axle sliding from side to side so it steers with both front and rear wheels

and no im not trying to say everyone should do this and im not also saying its a good or bad idea im just saying it might be worth exploring

yeah swaybars do and so is what i did but i saved weight doing it with different materials.

i dont want it to slide from side to side because sliding means twisting which means my tires camber angle changes to much. i want to have it set so that i have much tire on the ground as i can under compression of the springs. i dont want much flexing i want to control all that with the springs and shocks.
my whole goal is to contorl what flexes and what doesnt

next step of tieing it all together is the roll cage. might take awhile for these pictures to get posted since i gotta buy it and start making payments on the install. guess it helps i do all the fitting for all this then he welds it

bgbmxer
09-26-2009, 01:56 PM
suspension is on the car finally so it can be moved around again finnaly.

bgbmxer
09-27-2009, 08:44 PM
:for future referance you cant move these things around without having the axle stubs in and tight like you can with the pressed in bearings :( hopefully nothing is destroyed

thefitisgay
09-27-2009, 10:09 PM
oh yea i shoulda told you that the bearings fall apart

bgbmxer
09-27-2009, 10:44 PM
oh yea i shoulda told you that the bearings fall apart

they didnt fall apart. the rotors held them in place lol. just hope the caliper bolts are not bent and the calipers dont need re painted or the bearings are shot. didnt tow it that far so we will see. not used to these daytona parts lol.

thefitisgay
09-28-2009, 03:47 PM
in my experience the inner race/cup pops out and then all the balls drop.... lol

bgbmxer
09-28-2009, 05:14 PM
in my experience the inner race/cup pops out and then all the balls drop.... lol

we will have to see. it looked intact when the axles were put in

bgbmxer
10-04-2009, 12:59 PM
front wheel bearings feel fine after the mishap and the caliper bolts are not bent either. here are some more pics

sits high because of the lack of motor but thats not going in till after the cage is in
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P8170420.jpg

thefitisgay
10-04-2009, 10:36 PM
looks nice with those pumpers...

hey does theseat thing really work? cuz sometimes i noticed my judgement is blurred and it would help if my car helped pick them out....

bgbmxer
10-04-2009, 10:54 PM
looks nice with those pumpers...

hey does theseat thing really work? cuz sometimes i noticed my judgement is blurred and it would help if my car helped pick them out....

they are really small waist width seats like 38 inch max so yeah it would kinda work lol

thefitisgay
10-04-2009, 11:28 PM
oooo i need those seats cuz ohh man have i had some bad picks lol

bgbmxer
03-30-2010, 01:49 AM
some more progress.

head is done and ready to go on. +1 mm valves, 061 springs, high rpm lifters and a super 60 roller cam should get me to that goal of 300+ plus horse

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2170445.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2170446.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2170444.jpg

bgbmxer
03-30-2010, 01:52 AM
soon to come fab picks of the roll cage :thumb: and the head on the bottom end finally

thefitisgay
03-30-2010, 01:08 PM
aw ---- youre gunna beat me

omni_840
03-30-2010, 01:15 PM
Looks good, who did the head?

bgbmxer
03-31-2010, 03:11 AM
Looks good, who did the head?

spicer motors there located in middletown maryland

bgbmxer
04-11-2010, 10:42 PM
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2220453.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P2220452.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/P3020468.jpg

bgbmxer
04-11-2010, 11:17 PM
cage has been order. hopefully we dont need to cut the roof off the car to get the distance between the cage and the top of my head since we have to make sure the welds are 360 around everything:yuck:

bgbmxer
04-13-2010, 09:17 AM
aw ---- youre gunna beat me

i can only hope :thumb:

thefitisgay
04-13-2010, 12:08 PM
nah dude you already did lol

bgbmxer
05-15-2010, 11:44 AM
picked up the roll cage from the freight depot. the cage is from kirk racing just gotta get it put in now:eyebrows:

also found a pic on my phone of the rear suspension before i put it in.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/22.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/42.jpg
some shiny stuff. and big brakes
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/32.jpg

bgbmxer
07-19-2010, 11:21 PM
ok i have started to mock up this turbo to the head finnally and i know i have to drill the header for a regular t3 flange. i also know i have to mill the angle of the header down more to angle the turbo itself down away from the intake.

the turbo im using is a .63 ford turbine side and im having a garrett housing off are t2 motors bored to fit the .60 compressor wheel so i have plenty of clearance around the head ill have to take some pictures tomorrow of it so i can get some advice on my problem

my problem is clearance for the wastegate can and the rod going to the arm on the swing valve hits the 2 piece intake. does anyone have any ideas on different ways of mounting the wastegate can and making it clear the intake? any pictures?

TonaChris
07-20-2010, 01:46 AM
cage has been order. hopefully we dont need to cut the roof off the car to get the distance between the cage and the top of my head since we have to make sure the welds are 360 around everything:yuck:

Where the base plates go on the floor cut holes to drop the cage through and let the cage sit on the ground so you can weld all the way around the top joints. Then lift the cage up and slide the base plates in and weld them in.

bgbmxer
07-20-2010, 10:12 AM
Where the base plates go on the floor cut holes to drop the cage through and let the cage sit on the ground so you can weld all the way around the top joints. Then lift the cage up and slide the base plates in and weld them in.

sounds like a posible solution. i dont have to worry about the same rules as a convertable car does rule wise with having to have a certian distance from the top of my helmet to the bar. just has to be as close as possible while welded the whole ways around

bgbmxer
07-20-2010, 10:17 AM
i havent seen anyone really go through the firewall to the shock towers before tho. anyone have any pics

bgbmxer
07-20-2010, 01:01 PM
my clearance problem

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/IMG_0040.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/IMG_0035.jpg

thats with it bolted tight to the header this is with it slanted down about how much i think i need to machine off the header to make the sv and wastegate arm clear any ideas?

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/IMG_0044.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/IMG_0051.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/IMG_0037.jpg

bgbmxer
07-20-2010, 01:10 PM
as u can see i have to angle the header down an --- ton but thats not to bad im thinking about taking a few degrees off the header and some off the turbine housing as well but the nuts wont sit flush. anyone have any pictures of hybrid wastegate setups?

rosie
07-27-2010, 01:12 PM
delta gate. you're already shown you can weld so that's what I'd do if i had a welder and could weld

Mopar318
07-27-2010, 01:32 PM
Make your own parts. Trying to fit non stock items on stock parts just doesnt work well. Thats why I built an entire turbo setup using a standard flange turbo. Also spend 1/4 of what most people do on thier turbo setups because its not the all might god chrysler flange and casted swingvalve.

bgbmxer
05-07-2012, 06:01 PM
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/d0d3ed14.jpg

Ended up buying a 60 trim t3 turbonetics. Plan on running it with the .48 turbine instead of the .63 to aid with spool time.

bgbmxer
08-26-2012, 04:30 PM
Had a problem with my trans hitting the cross bar tieing the front end together. Problem solved.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/3ACDFB6C-1870-4C6C-8558-FAD424CD1F62-2246-00000101C4E7D3A7.jpg

bgbmxer
08-26-2012, 07:33 PM
That's more better
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/18D5637F-D776-411B-ACF5-FD665B169352-2868-00000137493ED403.jpg

thefitisgay
08-26-2012, 10:44 PM
i havent seen anyone really go through the firewall to the shock towers before tho. anyone have any pics

youre still not done with this? lol what about those imsa cars theres no pics of their cages?

bgbmxer
08-27-2012, 03:23 AM
youre still not done with this? lol what about those imsa cars theres no pics of their cages?

No I'm still not done with this car haha. Job situation hasnt been steady enough to allow me to really put any money into it. I'm workin at it slowly tho. Starting to plumb in the turbo and once I get the intake and stuff powder coated I can let the engine in for good and start wiring.

bgbmxer
08-27-2012, 09:06 AM
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/18D5637F-D776-411B-ACF5-FD665B169352-2868-00000137493ED403.jpg

thefitisgay
08-27-2012, 11:38 PM
bummer... lol youre goin wrong making it pretty didnt you know cosmetics are expensive? lol

bgbmxer
08-28-2012, 01:19 AM
bummer... lol youre goin wrong making it pretty didnt you know cosmetics are expensive? lol

Ever seen a dirty racecar win any big race?

thefitisgay
09-03-2012, 04:18 AM
maybe on pinks i cant remember if it won or lost tho heh

ha i dont think because shut up will work for me anymore

bgbmxer
10-23-2012, 08:36 PM
A little bit of progress lately re plumbed all the brake lines on the car. Word to the wise the napa green coated brake line while it is easy to bend is almost impossible to double flare. I'll stick to the steel stuff. I originally thought it was my cheap harbour freight flare kit so I went and bought a 120 dollar flare kit made by rigid. Still didn't work on the line from napa. Figured what the hell lets see if it works on the old line. Worked first time and everytime. Turns out instead of the tubing flaring it would crush in the flare tool and push right thru. Even tho the flare tool was probably not needed this is the best one I have ever used. Makes doing this job way more enjoyable to do.

Got my downpipe made up to fit my 3 inch TU swing valve. I decided to heli coil the holes that hold the downpipe to the swingvalve so I don't have to deal with the nuts on the top. The material the sv is made out of threaded extremely well and made life easy. Pictures to come. I'm thinking about side exit again just cause I'm lazy and it's legal so why not

135sohc
10-24-2012, 12:18 AM
That polyarmour stuff is the same thing as regular steel line, its just got the extra coating on it.
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html <<<for the hobbyist that is the best cheaper double flaring tool, its alot easier that fooling with a flaring bar and hand cranked die.

bgbmxer
10-24-2012, 03:58 AM
That polyarmour stuff is the same thing as regular steel line, its just got the extra coating on it.
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html <<<for the hobbyist that is the best cheaper double flaring tool, its alot easier that fooling with a flaring bar and hand cranked die.

I'm unsure if its the same or not. Either way even the nice flare tool I bought wouldn't hold it tight enough to flare it correctly. It seems softer and looked like it also had a smaller inside diameter also.

This is the kit I bought and I like it alot. The coated line still wouldn't hold tight it would just crush and slide thru. http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/345-Flaring-Tool
Mine has a lifetime warranty too. That's only got a year. I don't think this does bubble tho.

bgbmxer
10-16-2013, 04:04 PM
Back to work on it again. Some down pipe fabrication
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg (http://s268.photobucket.com/user/bgbmxer/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg.html)

bgbmxer
10-27-2013, 03:12 PM
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj17/bgbmxer/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg (http://s268.photobucket.com/user/bgbmxer/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-2.jpg.html)

I finally got it all tacked up not shabby for building it from two different partial exhausts gotta get it all welded up and wrap it in header wrap.