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Lee'sdaytona
05-06-2006, 08:48 PM
Alright,
So seeing as this turbo mini thing fell through, I probably have to fix this cracked piston....which I don't want to do...but w/e. Last year when I did the TII swap, I put in new rings and rod bearings...but it has leaked for awhile from the transmission/block connecting area...and since the tranny was rebuilt a few years back and I don't think it looses oil, could it be the rear main seal? How hard is this to change? I assume the tranny and crankshaft have to come out right?
-Lee

looneytuner
05-06-2006, 10:25 PM
If you have an automatic, I think you could do it by unbolting the transmission and flexplate, and making some room between the two to get to the bolts for the seal housing. And the oilpan has to be dropped.

Lee'sdaytona
05-06-2006, 10:53 PM
well here's the thing: for a long time, I've had oil leaking on the driveshaft area, speed/distance sensor and bottom of the transmission (manual A 520) but I am assuming its not the transmission because it was rebuilt 2 years ago. If it were the rear main seal, would oil show up in these spots? Would it soak the clutch in oil causing it to slip? The clutch doesn't slip. I really don't want to replace the seals, because I don't want to remove the crankshaft and have to rebalance it....
-Lee

looneytuner
05-06-2006, 11:25 PM
I think a rear main would mess up the clutch. Mayb driveshaft seal in diff housing. The rear main doesn't need the cranshaft pulled. just drop the oil pan and loosen the 4 bolts in the pic and pull it off by hand. It slides off.
I think the power steering seeps minutely all the time. If you are not getting drops on the street when you park, just gunk that area. Put some duct tape over the timing hole? I'm an automatic guy, but did a 520>555 swap recently.

Don't forget the turbo oil line!!! They will start leaking if you are lucky. If not they just blow with oil everywhere.

Lee'sdaytona
05-06-2006, 11:34 PM
oh thats good to know. So when I'm replacing the cracked piston I may as well throw in a new rear main seal...didn't know it was that easy....plus some new freeze plugs....Turbo oil line is fairly new, but I will check that out....sure is a possiblility....should I go for a braded line or another stock one?
-Lee

turbovanmanČ
05-07-2006, 06:04 PM
Don't use stock for the oil feed line, buy the braided one, much better.

Rear main is simple, don't need to drop the oil pan either.

Remove trans, flexplate. Get a sharp small screwdriver and a hammer and carefully pry out the seal-don't knick the crank journal. Get a clean rag and some brake cleaner. Wipe out the seal and crank area with the brake cleaned rag until oil, residue is gone. Get your new crank seal and coat the OUTER part with anerobic sealer. Now lightly coat the inner seal lips with oil. Carefully install seal into retainer, you will need a small screwdriver to carefully move the seal lip over the crank shaft, you will see what I mean when you do it. If you don't manipulate the seal, it will fold over and you will have a worse leak than before. After you get the seal started, hammer the seal flush with the housing using a small punch or the old seal. You can leave it flush or slightly recessed. DON'T damage the seal by hammering it in. Also, make sure to coat the flexplate bolts with thread sealer.

Also, check the oil galley plug, just above the rear main, this can leak and make it look like your rear main seal is leaking.

Lee'sdaytona
05-07-2006, 10:45 PM
Don't use stock for the oil feed line, buy the braided one, much better.

Rear main is simple, don't need to drop the oil pan either.

Remove trans, flexplate. Get a sharp small screwdriver and a hammer and carefully pry out the seal-don't knick the crank journal. Get a clean rag and some brake cleaner. Wipe out the seal and crank area with the brake cleaned rag until oil, residue is gone. Get your new crank seal and coat the OUTER part with anerobic sealer. Now lightly coat the inner seal lips with oil. Carefully install seal into retainer, you will need a small screwdriver to carefully move the seal lip over the crank shaft, you will see what I mean when you do it. If you don't manipulate the seal, it will fold over and you will have a worse leak than before. After you get the seal started, hammer the seal flush with the housing using a small punch or the old seal. You can leave it flush or slightly recessed. DON'T damage the seal by hammering it in. Also, make sure to coat the flexplate bolts with thread sealer.

Also, check the oil galley plug, just above the rear main, this can leak and make it look like your rear main seal is leaking.
Hmm....I'm honestly trying to avoid removing the trans, as I've never done it, and I don't have a trans jack,....If the oil pan is coming off anyway, can it be done without too much trouble from the oil pan with the trans still installed?
thanks,
Lee

t3rse
05-07-2006, 11:09 PM
you're not gonna replace it without pulling the trans...but it isn't hard, use a 2x4 to hammer on it when you put the new one in, use a sealant...it isn't a bad job, just takes some time.

Lee'sdaytona
05-07-2006, 11:28 PM
alright...I'll think about it....considering my clutch doesn't slip, I don't think I have an oil leak from the rear main seal...but it wouldn't be a bad idea just for insurance....
thanks for the info guys!
-Lee