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Polygon
08-07-2009, 01:21 AM
Even though it's come a long way it's still got a long way to go.

This is my 1989 Lebaron GTC TII. It's one of 1,033 produced that year. I bought it in Ohio for $600 and drove it all the way back to Utah. This was what the car looked like when I got it home. Cracked tires, warped rotors, dead pads, busted vac system, and a goat ---- brown interior. It also had some mudflaps and pin strips which I removed before I took this pic. The engine was also covered in yellow hose. There was still one left that has since been replaced.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%205/Car%20(Old).jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Engine%20Before.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Engine.jpg

First thing I had to do was get some wheels a tires. The stock ones are alright but they were too small and a pain in the --- to clean. So, I bought some lighter wheels that were and inch wider and an inch bigger in diameter. They're Konig Reasons sized 17"x7" and the tires are Falken Azeni RT215. I'm going to be replacing the tires soon with something stickier.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Archive/On%20The%20Car.jpg

Next up I decided to take care of the exhaust. The stock one is hugely restrictive and I was sick of the makeshift muffler I had to use to pass inspection. It's a full 3" mandrel bent pipe, with a Catco cat, a Dynomax Race Bullet muffler, and a Borla Intercooler tip. The system is minus the downpipe and the new Turbos Unleashed swing valve thanks to a wrong part being sent. So, now they wait until the new turbo and header are installed.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Exhaust%20Parts.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Tip.jpg

How it sounds (http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/exhaust.mp3).

Next up was the vac system. The lines were all pretty much trashed. So, I added a vac manifold and silicone lines. I also deleted the evap canister. Soon, a boost controller.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Old%20Vacuum%20Lines.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Vacuum%20System.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%204/Vac%20Block.jpg

Polygon
08-07-2009, 01:21 AM
The latest thing to be done was the body work. This is probably the most expensive thing I'm going to have to do on the car. The car had been hit on the driver side by the previous owner's son in the family Buick. It dented the quarter panel and the door. Then there some rust issues, mainly on the rockers.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Archive/Driver%20Side.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Archive/Front.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Archive/Passenger%20Side.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Archive/Rear.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Rocker%20Rear%20Damage.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Rocker%20Extension%20Damage.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Rust.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Body%20Work%201.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Body%20Work%202.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Front%20Pre-Paint.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Left%20Rocker.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Right%20Rocker.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Rear%20Pre-Paint.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Side%20Painted.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Body%20Work/Painted%20Front.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Antenna%20Shave.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Front%20Angle.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Front%20Plate%20Delete.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Wheel.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/CarDomain/GTC/Images/Page%203/Driver%20Side.jpg

Polygon
08-07-2009, 01:22 AM
Now here's what planned for the next month.

Koni Dampers
Eibach Springs
Poly bushings and mounts all around
New strut components
All undercarriage metal blasted and powder coated black
New ball joints, tie rod ends, and wheels bearings
New 4 puck clutch and flywheel
Replace the rear main seal
New PS pump
Fix the A/C
Interior with SRT-4 "Viper" seats and custom black/gray interior
HU, speakers, and amp.
Ground kit
Rotors, Hawk HPS pads, ATE super blue fluid, and SS lines
PCV valve, plugs, wires, coil, general tune up to track down fueling issue
Strip the undercoating and reapply truck bed liner

There are some other small odds and ends, but I'll get pics up of everything as it gets done.

135sohc
08-07-2009, 01:34 AM
Eastwoods chassis black is absolutely kick *ss for underbody coating.

Polygon
08-07-2009, 01:49 AM
How much does it weigh compared to the stock undercoating?

135sohc
08-07-2009, 01:59 AM
Its a paint not a tar based coating. So I'd say almost nothing compared to undercoating. I used a brush to put the stuff on, was like brushing on water.

Polygon
08-07-2009, 02:06 AM
Thanks.

I wanted to use some spray on stuff but I don't think that will work out under the car. Now the hard part, getting it all off.

turbokid
08-07-2009, 01:03 PM
ohhhhh I still love this car evertime I see it

omni_840
08-07-2009, 01:46 PM
very nice, I remember when you posted the finished product on here :nod:

neongary
08-08-2009, 12:02 AM
Looks incredible. How much of a pain is it to change colors? I'm thinking of changing my maroon to silver if it's not a real big deal. Figured that the tough areas have to painted anyway...(door jambs, etc.)

WickedShelby88
08-08-2009, 02:07 AM
Wow. Amazing transformation and I applaud you for putting that time, money, and effort into saving it! Color looks sweet. I imagine you plan to lower it a tad. Would look better IMO. Guessing that is what the Eibach's are for. No matter what your getting it how you want it and still at a fraction what most people pay for a newer used car.

Polygon
08-08-2009, 10:58 AM
ohhhhh I still love this car evertime I see it

Thanks man. I can't wait to see your car finished. I'm sure it will look just as great!


very nice, I remember when you posted the finished product on here :nod:

Thanks!


Looks incredible. How much of a pain is it to change colors? I'm thinking of changing my maroon to silver if it's not a real big deal. Figured that the tough areas have to painted anyway...(door jambs, etc.)

Well, it's not that bad, you just have to remove some seals and trim and mask off the inside. If you're doing the paint job right in the first place the extra work is minimal to do the jambs. Under the hood is the tough part. I held of on that and I'm going to paint it when I pull the engine to do all the engine work. However, I've seen people do it with the engine in with good results. I think it's worth it and your car will look a lot better IMO. I'm not a fan of maroon at all.


Wow. Amazing transformation and I applaud you for putting that time, money, and effort into saving it! Color looks sweet. I imagine you plan to lower it a tad. Would look better IMO. Guessing that is what the Eibach's are for. No matter what your getting it how you want it and still at a fraction what most people pay for a newer used car.

Yeah, the Eibach's and Koni's will take care of the wheel gap mod. That's the only criticism I get about the car now. :D

I've had people actually bring the whole price thing up. Confused as to why I wasted my money. I respond with the fact that my car look just as good if not better than 90% of the new cars on the road. It's just as reliable, if not more so. And the fact of the matter is that I can't buy that car new and I love that car, money isn't of a concern to me. In fact, I don't even have a real budget. It will end up costing what it cost. I finish it off by saying that every hobby is really a waste of money anyhow.

After that, they have no retort. :)

2.216VTurbo
08-08-2009, 12:22 PM
Wow! What a transformation:thumb: Maybe you should leave one underhood piece yellow just for posterity, like the dipstick cap;)?

CoolV300C
08-08-2009, 01:36 PM
Yeah, loks great. But I was wondering about the yellow myself!
Nice work withthe car, and good paint choice too. Looks killer.

Vigo
08-10-2009, 12:14 PM
In fact, I don't even have a real budget. It will end up costing what it cost.

Spoken like a true 3si owner! lol.

Car's looking good.

Polygon
08-18-2009, 04:07 PM
Wow! What a transformation:thumb: Maybe you should leave one underhood piece yellow just for posterity, like the dipstick cap;)?

Yeah, only because he actually painted it. It will be taken care of.


Yeah, loks great. But I was wondering about the yellow myself!
Nice work withthe car, and good paint choice too. Looks killer.

Thanks!


Spoken like a true 3si owner! lol.

Car's looking good.

ROFL!!!! :lol:

Yeah, I've found that budgets are the enemy.

J&H Ryan
08-24-2009, 11:28 AM
Awesome - looks like you had a shop do the work? Smart man. After doing the Daytona myself, the GTC is getting shop-done. Question on the window trim/mirrors - did you paint them in agate or black? (mirror especially looks black) I think agate looks more unique, but its beautiful nomatter what you did.

Polygon
09-09-2009, 10:00 PM
Awesome - looks like you had a shop do the work? Smart man. After doing the Daytona myself, the GTC is getting shop-done. Question on the window trim/mirrors - did you paint them in agate or black? (mirror especially looks black) I think agate looks more unique, but its beautiful nomatter what you did.

Thanks Ryan.

Interior, electrical, mechanical it's all good. But body and paint and have absolutely no skill with. It was definitely done by a shop. I'm still kind of upset about the work. Body guy was awesome, paint guy was so so, the guy who reassembled things pisses me off. Plus they took forever. As for the mirrors and the cowl, they're done in black. That's an interesting idea that I hadn't really thought of. I had contemplated the body color, at least for the mirrors but I think I prefer this. I think I made the right choice. Thanks, again.

I'll update this tomorrow. I polished up the reverse lights, added clear turn signals, got new tires, and it is going in for tint tomorrow. Hopefully I can get everything else done the first week of October. That way next year I can go to town on the engine.

Mopar318
09-09-2009, 10:14 PM
Sweet looks good. I got most of the center console lid done. I hope to get it sewn and covered this week so you can get this things back together.

Polygon
09-10-2009, 01:23 AM
Sweet looks good. I got most of the center console lid done. I hope to get it sewn and covered this week so you can get this things back together.

Thanks man, I can't wait to see it. I'm not having trouble figuring out how to make the rest of the center console looks as good.

LynX853
09-10-2009, 11:58 AM
holy crap that's one sweet ride now! some def time and money put into it, but it looks awesome! good job!

Mopar318
09-10-2009, 06:48 PM
Thanks man, I can't wait to see it. I'm not having trouble figuring out how to make the rest of the center console looks as good.

Did you mean your NOW having trouble?

If thats the case send it to me, Ill work some magic.:eyebrows:

Finished your lid today. Probally be until sat or monday till I get the time to pack it and ship it out. I hope you like it!

FYI, the smudges are on the camera lense, the leather is defect free.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_4794.jpg

1984rampage
09-10-2009, 06:50 PM
Can you do one for my charger? lol

raccoon
09-10-2009, 06:54 PM
---- thats nice. gj

J&H Ryan
09-10-2009, 07:53 PM
Did you mean your NOW having trouble?

If thats the case send it to me, Ill work some magic.:eyebrows:

Finished your lid today. Probally be until sat or monday till I get the time to pack it and ship it out. I hope you like it!

FYI, the smudges are on the camera lense, the leather is defect free.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d48/Mopar318/IMG_4794.jpg

http://aim.search.aol.com/search/redir?src=image&s_req=b3ed2af5b0b1d620&s_cq=Want+picture&s_cid=86966842073277049051878276594755776853&s_cim=1252626738535&s_cu=http%3A%2F%2Fthepmi.files.wordpress.com%2F200 9%2F04%2Fdo-want.jpg&s_cd=ImgDet&s_cm=image_details.M.xml

Seriously - thats friggin awesome. If you can do a 90-95 console lid, I'll be looking you up one day (car needs to be on the road before I worry about the console...)

Mopar318
09-10-2009, 07:59 PM
Im sure I can do it. Might be a little more than the one above since I will have to prototype it. I already did the design work on my own so I can make that style alot quicker.

Sorry for thread jack. Post in my Console lid thread for further question!

Polygon
09-10-2009, 10:39 PM
Hijack back, bwahahahahaha!

Got some work done today and took some pics. I got the windows tinted, rear deck decals put on, clear turns, and the new tires.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Tint%201.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Tint%202.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Tint%203.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Tires.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Turns.jpg


Im sure I can do it. Might be a little more than the one above since I will have to prototype it. I already did the design work on my own so I can make that style alot quicker.

Sorry for thread jack. Post in my Console lid thread for further question!

No, by all means. That thing looks effing sweet! And yes, I meant now. :D

I was thinking of recovering it in black and gray suede. That lid is going to make the rest look cheap. :thumb:

J&H Ryan
09-10-2009, 10:43 PM
psst - you put the rear decals in the wrong spot

signed - the anal GTC police

(hey, I can't complain, mines not even going to be a lebaron when I'm done - Phantom GTC all da way (and yes, I know mexico called em R/T's...))

And you did do perfection - agate trim and black mirror, I can tell that now. I wish I could see this car in person :(

edit: You chopped off the antenna - nice. Now I'll be copying that and Eans lumina vent mod. Did you relocate it or just go CD/Sirius/Pandora?

Polygon
09-10-2009, 10:58 PM
psst - you put the rear decals in the wrong spot

signed - the anal GTC police

(hey, I can't complain, mines not even going to be a lebaron when I'm done - Phantom GTC all da way (and yes, I know mexico called em R/T's...))

And you did do perfection - agate trim and black mirror, I can tell that now. I wish I could see this car in person :(

edit: You chopped off the antenna - nice. Now I'll be copying that and Eans lumina vent mod. Did you relocate it or just go CD/Sirius/Pandora?

Yeah, I know. I prefer the centered rather than being directly to each side. Yep, chopped the antenna and I don't have one now. I don't listen to the radio and an Mp3 head unit with a USB input will be going in soon.

Thanks again man. I means a lot coming from another GTC nut. :nod:

At some point I'm going to have to bring it to SDAC once the car is complete.

turbokid
09-12-2009, 12:10 AM
God your car is gorgeous!

Polygon
09-12-2009, 03:01 PM
Almost forgot about the polished reverse lamps before and after. I used a 3M kit that only costs $15 to do it.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Reverse%20Lenses.jpg


God your car is gorgeous!

Thanks man. I still think you can have one too. You could just swap metal from the red one to the black one.

turbokid
09-12-2009, 09:20 PM
I am gonna fix something to drive first. I really need a car to drive so resto is not in my near future. I would say its safe to say that car is finished.
Q

Polygon
10-05-2009, 08:16 PM
Have some updated pics after getting the windows tinted and changing out the turn lamps. Also, progress so far in tear down for the suspension and brakes.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480072_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480106_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480109_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480108_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480105_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480112_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480111_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480114_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480127_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480139_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480152_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480153_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480154_large.jpg

Polygon
10-05-2009, 08:17 PM
Old headliner out:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480120_large.jpg

SRT-4 seats ready to go in, just need to fab up a way to mount them:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480161_large.jpg

Made a wiring harness for the stereo:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480119_large.jpg

All the audio crap ready to go in:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480165_large.jpg

New dampers and springs just waiting on powder coating:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480124_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480123_large.jpg

Polygon
10-05-2009, 08:17 PM
Deconstruction:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480171_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480172_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480162_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480079_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480076_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480082_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480080_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480078_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480077_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480163_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480170_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480167_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480158_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480156_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480157_large.jpg

More to come soon.

135sohc
10-05-2009, 08:33 PM
Someday I will do the same to my Shadow.

Amazing as always :hail: :thumb:

raccoon
10-05-2009, 08:55 PM
good work!

that old rotor is awesome.

J&H Ryan
10-05-2009, 09:22 PM
I spent too much time looking at the car to notice the background. Nice 'hood, incredible backdrop - your neighbors got a house for sale?, lol. If they don't use salt there, that would seal the deal.

Oh... and the mechanical buildup looks good - thats the opposite order of what I am doing - my mechanicals are all rebuilt, but the car looks like crap!

P.S. You need an HID kit to round out the mods :thumb:

neongary
10-06-2009, 12:31 AM
I was just going to say the same thing. Working on the mechanicals first, paint and body work later. Is there really a certain order?

WickedShelby88
10-06-2009, 04:58 PM
I think making the car look amazing first definitely motivates one to make it better mechanically! Really nice work. The car looks like its going to be better than new for sure.:thumb:

Polygon
10-07-2009, 08:50 PM
More shots. Removed the steering as one unit. Removed the calipers and drained them, a tad rusty. Poor control arms. And I changed the one mount that I can right now. Tomorrow I have to remove the brake lines and pick up the parts that have been powder coated so far and drop off the calipers and control arms.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Calipers.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Control%20Arms.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Power%20Steering.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Mounts.jpg


Someday I will do the same to my Shadow.

Amazing as always :hail: :thumb:

Thanks! It's been a PITA but when I lower it down it will have all been worth it.


good work!

that old rotor is awesome.

LOL, you should see the other one. It fought harder but still lost. And it lost a lot of pieces from the edges. :D


I spent too much time looking at the car to notice the background. Nice 'hood, incredible backdrop - your neighbors got a house for sale?, lol. If they don't use salt there, that would seal the deal.

Oh... and the mechanical buildup looks good - thats the opposite order of what I am doing - my mechanicals are all rebuilt, but the car looks like crap!

P.S. You need an HID kit to round out the mods :thumb:

I don't like it here. It's VERY beautiful but then it fails every where else. Also, they use a combination of salt and gravel. Good thing that neither the Stealth or the GTC will see the roads in the winter.

My engine runs great so I figured it was going to be the last thing on my list. As for HIDs, I'm on the wall. I have the Silverstars in the Stealth and love them. I also love that they cheap and plug and play.


I was just going to say the same thing. Working on the mechanicals first, paint and body work later. Is there really a certain order?

For me it was what was starting on what was in the worst shape.


I think making the car look amazing first definitely motivates one to make it better mechanically! Really nice work. The car looks like its going to be better than new for sure.:thumb:

Thanks, that was the goal, better than factory. Just wait till' you see the interior. :D

For some reason I'm not happy if I think the car I'm driving looks like crap.

Polygon
10-08-2009, 11:43 PM
Got some of the powder coating back today, and the rotors are painted.

New rack and lines:

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/New%20Steering.jpg

Cleaned up the trans:

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Trans.jpg

Stripped axle, just need to paint it now:

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Axle.jpg

Painted the rotors:

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Rotor%20Painted%20Rear.jpg

What Shawn has finished so far:

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/WCC/Hosting/Powder.jpg

neongary
10-09-2009, 12:10 AM
Looks super! I ended up with a A-1 Cardone reman rack from Advance. They had the best price. What are you doing with all the fasteners? The big fasteners I'm cleaning up and giving a shot of paint. Smaller ones I'm buying stainless replacements (like the water pump for example). It's tedious though, having to measure and figure out what size they are and then to make sure the replacements are the proper grade. Now there is a idea for a vendor...stainless hardware kits.

135sohc
10-09-2009, 12:47 AM
Boxes of new/powdercoated/fresh parts :love:

and just curious, does that autozone box say where that PS hose was made ? I've had some great deals and some great let downs from them. Something about trusting my life to chinese made brake hoses didnt quite settle with me.

Polygon
10-09-2009, 01:14 AM
Looks super! I ended up with a A-1 Cardone reman rack from Advance. They had the best price. What are you doing with all the fasteners? The big fasteners I'm cleaning up and giving a shot of paint. Smaller ones I'm buying stainless replacements (like the water pump for example). It's tedious though, having to measure and figure out what size they are and then to make sure the replacements are the proper grade. Now there is a idea for a vendor...stainless hardware kits.

That would be nice, SS anodized hardware kits! It would buy it. For now I'll have to stick with cleaning them up and painting the heads black. I had tried using Coke to clean them. Mythbusters were too late to inform me that it makes a horrible degreaser and does nothing for rust. :D


Boxes of new/powdercoated/fresh parts :love:

and just curious, does that autozone box say where that PS hose was made ? I've had some great deals and some great let downs from them. Something about trusting my life to chinese made brake hoses didnt quite settle with me.

Yeah, but I figured it was really hard to mess up the PS lines. I'll check tomorrow, but I'd bet it China. Can't wait, but I should have the rest of the powder coated parts back tomorrow or Saturday.

2.216VTurbo
10-09-2009, 11:59 AM
Maybe I missed a post or something, but what happened to those control arms? Are you piecing some together or something?

Polygon
10-09-2009, 04:02 PM
Maybe I missed a post or something, but what happened to those control arms? Are you piecing some together or something?

LOL, I had to buy another pair which are now at the powder coater.

2.216VTurbo
10-09-2009, 05:42 PM
Yeah but there is *story* there and you're not telling:eyebrows: Did you take them apart with a sledge hammer or?? C'mon fess up...

Polygon
10-09-2009, 05:51 PM
Yeah but there is *story* there and you're not telling:eyebrows: Did you take them apart with a sledge hammer or?? C'mon fess up...

Ah yes, talk about an --- kicking. It took an amalgam of tools.

Minisledge
Coaxing stick
Angle grinder
Sawsall
WD-40

It wouldn't have been such a PITA had the angle grinder been easier to get in there, but I was worried about cutting up the K-member.

Ondonti
10-10-2009, 07:39 AM
I am guessing you are bringing the Stealth to the TD meet tomorrow. At least you have good reasons for the Baron to be down :)
Glad the powdercoating is happening finally. Who is doing the work?

Polygon
10-11-2009, 10:11 PM
Just so everyone knows, I'm not ignoring Brent, we talked yesterday at the meet.

Now, for an update. I got the rest back from powder coating. Tomorrow the goal is to get the trans back in the car and drop the fuel tank.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/pc.jpg

135sohc
10-11-2009, 10:25 PM
:hail::clap:

neongary
10-12-2009, 12:32 AM
Did you coat the front wheel hubs? I'm debating on wether or not I should. I wonder will the oven heat effect the wheel studs? It's the same thinking on why not to powder coat springs. Just curious as I don't see them in your pile of parts.

My coating is not quite as shiny, I think they call it satin black or something like that.

EDIT: Never mind. I studied your picture some more and I see you have the bolt-in wheel hubs. Mine are pressed in and so the hub and bearing are separate.

135sohc
10-12-2009, 12:38 AM
I dont think you could powdercoat the bolt in sealed hubs and not damage the seals and grease inside them. ?

Polygon
10-12-2009, 01:15 AM
I dont think you could powdercoat the bolt in sealed hubs and not damage the seals and grease inside them. ?

Yep, exactly why they're not in there. I have brand new units ready to go in. Also, I went with a gloss black.

neongary
10-12-2009, 09:48 AM
I dont think you could powdercoat the bolt in sealed hubs and not damage the seals and grease inside them. ?

That's why I edited my post and said "never mind" about the question I had asked:thumb:

Polygon
10-18-2009, 05:51 PM
Dropped the tank down and got out the passenger rear brake line, torqued down the trans and diff plate, installed new passenger side poly mount and the old one was REALLY bad, pulled the steering joint off the old rack, cleaned up and painted the rear axle.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Axle.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Mount.jpg

neongary
10-18-2009, 09:27 PM
Axle looks good! No powdercoating for the axle? Yeah, these cars are murder on the mounts. Probably the original. I haven't touched mine yet, but thinking it's just as bad.

Polygon
10-19-2009, 02:16 PM
I wanted to but there's a rubber bushing that keeps the bar inside the axle from rattling and I didn't know how to replace it so I just had them blast and decide to paint it. As for that mount, I wold say it is. The center sleeve is barely being held it. It's not far from coming apart.

turbokid
10-21-2009, 11:30 PM
Wow looking good!
Keep up the good work buddy!
Q

Polygon
11-08-2009, 06:11 PM
Getting there but I keep hitting road blocks.

New brake lines are all bent up.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Brake%20Lines.jpg

This is one the road block. A problem with the sleeve the front bushing goes into. Have to take it back to Tunex and make them fix it.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Driver%20Control%20Arm.jpg

Got the trans, sub frame, and steering back in.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Driver%20Side.jpg

Other side I got the control arm in.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Passenger%20Control%20Arm.jpg

Started to get the rear axle reassembled.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Rear%20Axle%202.jpg

Got some more work done on the GTC and ran into another ------- road block. :mad:

And here's the other issue. The Driver side rear line has a larger connector than the passenger side line at the prop valve. In fact all the rest of the fittings on the line are the same size except this one. It really pisses me off. I know why they did that but if you're that stupid then maybe you shouldn't be working on cars let alone changing out brake lines.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Brake%20Fitting%20Issue.jpg

Parking brake shoes looked like they had been dragging.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Parking%20Brake%20Before.jpg

So, I took some sand paper to them.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Parking%20Brake%20After.jpg

Installed new plugs and wires.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Plugs%20&%20Wires.jpg

Getting ready to assemble the struts.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Strut%20Components.jpg

Struts ready to go in.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Struts%20Assembled.jpg

I still have some more to do today, mostly torquing down some bolts and assembling the parking brakes.

turbokid
11-08-2009, 07:11 PM
Wow those are pretty.
Amazing work so far. That car will look as good underneath as it does above forsure!
Q

Reaper1
11-08-2009, 07:45 PM
DO NOT install the struts like that! You need to take out the bottom isolators you have on there otherwise the car is going to sit too high in the front. Been there, done that! The Eibach's don't really drop the car that much to begin with. You'll notice that all of the progressive coils will be bound when you finally do get them in the car. That spacer just keeps the front sitting higher. I HIGHLY suggest taking them out....

neongary
11-08-2009, 09:09 PM
Looks good! I see your Koni's have the newer logo. When did you purchase them? Mine have the old logo, but I got them 4 years ago. Where did you get the bump stops? I bought some new ones through Mopar, but look different than the originals.

Polygon
11-08-2009, 10:28 PM
Wow those are pretty.
Amazing work so far. That car will look as good underneath as it does above forsure!
Q

Almost. Managed to get the line in without dropping the tank. I just need to get this done. So, I'm going to drop the tank later and do new fuel lines. Then I'm going to strip off all the under coating and then paint that with some Eastwood chassis paint.


DO NOT install the struts like that! You need to take out the bottom isolators you have on there otherwise the car is going to sit too high in the front. Been there, done that! The Eibach's don't really drop the car that much to begin with. You'll notice that all of the progressive coils will be bound when you finally do get them in the car. That spacer just keeps the front sitting higher. I HIGHLY suggest taking them out....

Really? I don't know if I like that idea. I've seen some cases of the --- sag being an issue and I've seen others where there is no issue. I've also heard that the Pro Kit went through a revision that solved the issue.

I'm just going to install them and if it is an issue I'm going to fab up some adjustable spring perches for the rear.


Looks good! I see your Koni's have the newer logo. When did you purchase them? Mine have the old logo, but I got them 4 years ago. Where did you get the bump stops? I bought some new ones through Mopar, but look different than the originals.

Yep, as far as I know I got the last set anyone had. I think I bought them in 2007. The bump stops are from Poly Bushings.

Vigo
11-08-2009, 10:42 PM
I'm just going to install them and if it is an issue I'm going to fab up some adjustable spring perches for the rear.

That's not going to address huge wheelgap in the front..

Polygon
11-08-2009, 11:00 PM
That's not going to address huge wheelgap in the front..

I've never seen that as being a problem with the --- sag issue. The front is lowered but not as much as the rear. I have a feeling they are going to lower the car considering how large the stock springs were.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480080_large.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TM/Hosting/Strut%20Components.jpg

Vigo
11-08-2009, 11:32 PM
It depends on what you like. I like low, and when i put eibachs on my Aries, which i had already lowered with cut stock shelby springs, the eibachs RAISED it AND made it uneven, and i ended up cutting .5 coil off the front (no lower isolators to begin with here) and wish i had cut it 1.5.

With the lower isolators and no cutting your front will probably be barely lower than stock.
But let us know how it turns out either way.

Polygon
11-08-2009, 11:39 PM
With the lower isolators and no cutting your front will probably be barely lower than stock.
But let us know how it turns out either way.

How's that? Look at the stock springs, they're almost as tall as the strut. The Eibachs aren't nearly that tall. How will that not lower it?

Reaper1
11-09-2009, 01:02 AM
The stock springs have a lower spring rate than the Eibach's. The front Eibach springs are around 300-lb/in after the progressive coils are bound(which is the case in EVERY car I've ever seen these springs installed in, in person). The stock springs are something like 170 to 220-lb/in, possibly(there used to be published figures on that somewhere). So, even though the stock springs are longer at rest(no load), they will compress more for a given load put on them versus the Eibach's, even after they are installed.

I put those spacers on my '89 LeBaron convertible along with '89 Daytona Shelby springs on KYB struts. The front was WAY in the air. I took them out and it helped. I still ended up ghetto clamping them to get the car to sit where I wanted it.

I think part of the @ss sag issue is because the old spring perches in the rear are usually WAY shot, so even though people put new springs back there, the perches let the car sit lower than it should.

If it works to your liking the way you have it, that's great, but from my personal experience(3 cars with Eibach's and Koni's), I don't think it will.

Polygon
11-09-2009, 01:13 AM
Well, everything in the rear is new as well. I just don't like the idea of the spring just sitting right on the metal of the spring perch. It just doesn't sound like a good idea.

Well, if this is a specific issue with the Koni/Eibach then what option do I have that will actually lower the car then? This project is getting beyond frustrating at this point.

Reaper1
11-09-2009, 01:37 AM
There was never an isolator on the lower spring perch of the struts for our cars. The ONLY car I've seen this on that was K-based was a Y-body('91 New Yorker). I think because those use the same parts, the isolators get pigeon holed with all of our cars.

At any rate the spring isn't going anywhere once it is installed. It can't slip or rotate.

MY advice is to take those isolators out, and install your suspension the way it sits. Let it settle(drive it around a little bit, but not a lot because the alignment is going to be all messed up). Then see if you like where it sits. If you do...GREAT! If you don't, take a measurement of how high the car is, then see how much of a difference it will be where you would like to see it. I do NOT suggest more than 1.25" drop from factory ride height. It'll mess up the front suspension geometry and you'll be hitting those bump stops more than you'd like. Once you figure that out, then take out the springs and use a die grinder to cut off the amount of coils it is going to take to drop the car by that much. I think you'll find the progressive coils will all be bound when the car is sitting on the ground and it has settled. This means that those coils now have an infinite spring rate and are doing nothing but holding the car up. If you divide the number of inches by the diameter of the spring coil, that will tell you fairly accurately how many coils to cut off to get the drop you are looking for. I HIGHLY recommend doing 1/2 coil LESS than what you calculate. This gives you a fudge factor so you don't go too far and you can work your way up to where the car sits the way you want it to(make sure it's even left to right as well!!).

Oh, one other thing...make sure you installed those little white plastic discs on the struts before you put on the bump stops! After talking with Lee Grimes(the Koni representative for the Koni Challenge) they are there to prevent the bump stop from making contact with the top of the strut seal housing because if the bump stop hits hard enough it could damage the seal.

neongary
11-09-2009, 02:04 AM
Reaper, I don't think your post is entirely correct. My '89 Lebaron had a totally stock and original suspension when I took it apart and it sure did have those lower spring isolators. They had a pentastar on them and they are listed in the factory parts books. It's #4404366.

135sohc
11-09-2009, 02:22 AM
probably a cost cutting thing when they were dropped. Nothing in 94 (happens to be the catalog handy) shows a lower isolator.

http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/135SoHc/th_suspension.jpg (http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/135SoHc/?action=view&current=suspension.jpg)

although that p/n does list through 95.

Polygon
11-09-2009, 02:36 AM
There was never an isolator on the lower spring perch of the struts for our cars. The ONLY car I've seen this on that was K-based was a Y-body('91 New Yorker). I think because those use the same parts, the isolators get pigeon holed with all of our cars.

The stock struts I pulled off had them on as well.


At any rate the spring isn't going anywhere once it is installed. It can't slip or rotate.

The spring perch looks pretty flat, what prevents it from moving around? Have you done some sort of modification on these cars you're telling me about to keep the spring in place?


MY advice is to take those isolators out, and install your suspension the way it sits. Let it settle(drive it around a little bit, but not a lot because the alignment is going to be all messed up). Then see if you like where it sits. If you do...GREAT! If you don't, take a measurement of how high the car is, then see how much of a difference it will be where you would like to see it. I do NOT suggest more than 1.25" drop from factory ride height. It'll mess up the front suspension geometry and you'll be hitting those bump stops more than you'd like. Once you figure that out, then take out the springs and use a die grinder to cut off the amount of coils it is going to take to drop the car by that much. I think you'll find the progressive coils will all be bound when the car is sitting on the ground and it has settled. This means that those coils now have an infinite spring rate and are doing nothing but holding the car up. If you divide the number of inches by the diameter of the spring coil, that will tell you fairly accurately how many coils to cut off to get the drop you are looking for. I HIGHLY recommend doing 1/2 coil LESS than what you calculate. This gives you a fudge factor so you don't go too far and you can work your way up to where the car sits the way you want it to(make sure it's even left to right as well!!).

I'm not cutting springs. To be honest, an inch is just fine with me.


Oh, one other thing...make sure you installed those little white plastic discs on the struts before you put on the bump stops! After talking with Lee Grimes(the Koni representative for the Koni Challenge) they are there to prevent the bump stop from making contact with the top of the strut seal housing because if the bump stop hits hard enough it could damage the seal.

That would have been nice to know what the hell those were before I put them together. The instructions are worthless.

Reaper1
11-09-2009, 02:40 AM
Reaper, I don't think your post is entirely correct. My '89 Lebaron had a totally stock and original suspension when I took it apart and it sure did have those lower spring isolators. They had a pentastar on them and they are listed in the factory parts books. It's #4404366.

Interesting. Mine was all stock as well when I took it apart and there was no lower isolator. I've never seen them on anything but a Y-body.

MY '90 FSM shows them, but it also has "(as equipped)" next to the description in the figure. As a note it is DEFINITELY part of the suspension of the Y and C bodies! Out of curiosity I wonder if the Masi TC cars got them?

Only one thing to do..get my DeLorean and hop back to 1989 and look at a brand new LeBaron GTC! LOL ;):D:thumb:

Reaper1
11-09-2009, 02:51 AM
The perch retains the spring because of the angle and cup the end of it sits in on the bottom. Once it is installed and there is tension on there, it will NOT go anywhere. I promise!

As has been stated by others and myself, the Eibachs may not lower the car! I've had that experience on two of my personal cars('90 V6 and my '88 Shelby Z), and a friend of mine on his '91 Daytona CS. My '91 Daytona also has them, but they were cut when I got the car. I can tell you that they DO ride a LOT nicer than stock though, especially with the Konis set correctly!

To set the Koni's correctly (as per Lee Grimes' instructions), find some speed bumps and run over them. Take note of how many times the car bounces. You want ONE full oscillation and then it should be at rest. No more, no less. This is for the front and the back. After following these instructions my car rode better and it also seemed to have better manners at the edge of grip.

Polygon
11-09-2009, 02:59 AM
Hmmm.....

Alright, I've got to take them apart anyhow to put those blasted rings in. I'll get them in and see where they sit. I sure hope the car at least sits level.

Thanks for all the help.

Turbo_Rampage
11-11-2009, 12:13 AM
Car looks great, :thumb:

yeah your probably going to end up chopping some coils off those springs once you get the car on it's full weight... these springs are pretty much designed to be cut since those 5 bottom coils stack on top of each other and are pretty much useless anyways.. i chopped 1.5 coils off my Daytona front and back to give it the 1" drop with the same eibach springs. I didn't even know they made a lower isolator for the front struts until this thread, haha

turbokid
11-11-2009, 01:21 AM
God that thing will look SICK with a 1 inch drop forsure!

neongary
11-11-2009, 09:32 AM
I was under the impression that the Eibach springs were already shorter than stock. Why would you cut coils off of a spring that's already shorter? It sure has to throw the spring rates all to hell and would probably make the car ride like crap. Of course ride quality is subjective!

Reaper1
11-11-2009, 02:50 PM
I was under the impression that the Eibach springs were already shorter than stock. Why would you cut coils off of a spring that's already shorter? It sure has to throw the spring rates all to hell and would probably make the car ride like crap. Of course ride quality is subjective!

They are physically shorter, but they have a much higher spring rate than the factory spring. Once installed, that's where the difference can be seen and felt.

These springs are progressive springs, meaning that they do not have a linear spring rate through their entire travel. The bottom coils that are close together have a much lower spring rate than the top coils. When the full weight of the car is on them, these bottom coils compress to full bind, meaning that their effective spring rate is infinite and that the top coils are the only thing that affect the ride and handling. They are purposly designed this way. The lower coils are supposed to be able to provide a "comfort" ride because they are so easy to compress, while the upper coils are supposed to be for performance. When the struts are not on the car it looks like thatis how they will sit, but in fact they are actually too long! The lower coils in fact bind and only act as a spacer spring to keep the entire thing from moving and keep some tension on the spring.

Because of the fact that the lower coils are in total bind when the car is sitting on them, they in fact have NO bearing on the spring rate acting on the car! Due to this, they can be cut off with NO detrimental effects to the acting spring rate on the car. The only thing that cutting these coils will do is to lower the car. Ride quality will be no worse than when the springs had all of the lower coils in place while handling will be improved due to the lower CG of the car. The only thing you have to watch is that you don't lower the car too much! If the control arms start to aim "up" at their ends, the roll center is all out of whack and can actually make the car have more body roll than it is supposed to. This is why I suggest NO more than 1.25"(and even there it is a tad too much).

My car has some of these coils cut off and is lowered to the 1.25" that I suggest is max. After doing some research and driving the car on the track and street is how I've come up with my conclusions. At this lowered height, these springs BARELY have enough spring rate to keep the car off the bump stops over things like speed bumps, plus I have run in to the control arm problem I mentioned. Not only that, but the lowest part of the car is now only a bit under 4" off the ground! My car handles VERY well as has gotten compliments from different drivers(road course and auto-x) about the balance and feel. It has also gotten compliments about the ride even from people with back problems and who would be annoyed by a harsh, pounding ride. On race scales the car is about as balanced as any FWD car can really get without being fully prepared and had a cross weight balance that was almost perfect with me in the car!

Due to these facts, observations, and opinions, I am 100% confident that cutting the lower coils(within reason) of these Eibach springs is completely safe and will not introduce anything negative to the car. :thumb:

Polygon
11-30-2009, 04:55 AM
Time for an update.

11.29.2009

So, it's been a while since I've updated this and a lot of work has been done. There have been a lot of road blocks thanks to rust. The control arms refused to be separated from the sub frame and had to be cut out and I had to buy another set. The hard brake lines going to the rear would not break loose from the flex lines and had to cut as well. In fact, just this weekend when trying to hook the new front lines up the driver side hard line snapped as well. The sway bar bushing don't fit and different ones had to be found. After assembling the struts I had to take them apart to install a plastic washer underneath the bump stop and remove the lower isolator. I had to find a lot of new hardware because of rust and the cutting to remove it. Getting the transmission back in took about three hours. The list could go on, but it annoys me just to type it.

As of the this weekend I've gotten all of the powder coated material back, the new brake lines, the subframe and controls arms are back in, as is the power steering system, new O2 sensor is installed, new PCV is in, new plugs and wires, the intake is back on, the transmission is back in, axles and knuckles are installed, rear axle and suspension is in, parking brakes are refurbished, one strut is installed with one side of the strut bar bolted down. All that's left is to get the new brake line bent up and installed, install the other strut and bolt down the strut tower bar, install the rear lines, install the rear hubs, install rotors/pads/calipers and refill and bleed the system, refill and bleed the power steering system, install the sway bar and panhard bar, make sure nothing leaks, and then take it in for alignment.

So, everything should be done this week. Sadly, the interior was supposed to be done with all of this as well, but due to to unforeseen issues I had to spend money on things I didn't intend to. I should have seen it coming being a 20 year old car that came from Ohio. But now the direction of the car has changed somewhat. The focus remains the same but everything is being replaced. To the point that this will be a new car when it's done.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480184_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480186_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480188_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480201_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480187_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480206_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480207_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480192_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480208_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480189_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480194_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480193_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480195_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480190_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480204_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480196_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480202_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480200_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480191_large.jpg

blk86trbo
11-30-2009, 10:32 AM
Car is coming along great Clint, those A arms look awesome bolted up!

Reaper1
11-30-2009, 02:54 PM
Which sawybar bushings were those that didn't fit and what did you end up replacing them with that did work correctly?

turbokid
11-30-2009, 03:41 PM
Still drooling over here clint.
Your car is gonna be a new but BETTER.
I think you will love it. Hell after all this work I KNOW you will love it.
Keep up the good work
Q

135sohc
11-30-2009, 11:01 PM
Looking good :clap:

Did you buy new rear bumpstops or just recondition those ?

Polygon
12-02-2009, 08:26 PM
Car is coming along great Clint, those A arms look awesome bolted up!

Thanks. I'm just happy to see it looking more and more like a whole car again.


Which sawybar bushings were those that didn't fit and what did you end up replacing them with that did work correctly?

The ones that didn't fit were the ones that Johnny sells for the 89" K-member with dual pivot arms and the big 1 1/4" bar. The ones that work are some that Johnny sent me me. He just called them a universal with bracket. I just told him the size of the bar and he sent those out for $25 shipped.


Still drooling over here clint.
Your car is gonna be a new but BETTER.
I think you will love it. Hell after all this work I KNOW you will love it.
Keep up the good work
Q

Thanks man.

That's what I keep telling myself. Still waiting on that front brake line since the new fittings didn't show up today. Maybe tomorrow.


Looking good :clap:

Did you buy new rear bumpstops or just recondition those ?

Thanks. The the bump stops are a combination. The bump stops themselves are new. I just sanded and painted the metal. The bump stop mounts were blasted and powder coated.

turbo van go
12-03-2009, 08:07 PM
how do you keep everything so clean??????

Vigo
12-03-2009, 08:49 PM
The stock springs are something like 170 to 220-lb/in, possibly(there used to be published figures on that somewhere).


The stiffest stock front k-car spring is 145 lb/in. So yeah.. not stiff at all. The stock springs have a very tall unloaded height but since the rate is so much lower they compress down to half that free height when the car weight is on them. The eibach springs installed height is not much different from their free height because the weight of the car has a smaller effect on them due to the stiffer rate.

And i have never once felt that the ride went to crap from cutting springs and ive cut a bunch.

So i totally agree with Reaper1. My only regret from cutting my eibachs is that i didnt cut more. Now i have to go back in later.:o

Polygon
12-04-2009, 07:56 PM
how do you keep everything so clean??????

Hehehe, I'm a very tidy person. I try to make sure no fluids get on the floor and if they do I clean them up. I keep it swept when I'm done working and pick up all the tools and put them away.


So i totally agree with Reaper1. My only regret from cutting my eibachs is that i didnt cut more. Now i have to go back in later.:o

I'll have to see how it looks when I lower it down. I had someone PS a shot of it lowered and as long as it's kind of close to that I'll be happy.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480125_large.jpg

Polygon
12-19-2009, 10:22 PM
Well, the car is almost there!

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480213_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480209_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480210_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480212_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480211_large.jpg

blk86trbo
12-19-2009, 10:36 PM
It's difficult not to comment every time pics of this car are posted...looks great :thumb:

2.216VTurbo
12-26-2009, 02:06 PM
Looking good Polygon:clap: I should have suggested this before all the suspension bits were in place but it is still doasble if you are careful nad do a bit of masking. What that car really needs to make it look spectacular underneath is "Westleys' Rubberized undercoating" It's availbale at typical auto parts stores etc. Get about 3 cans, prep underneath with a stiff brush (tho it looks pretty clean under there already) and it won't stick well to grease or oil but it will make everything nice and black like factory fresh. It makes a huge visual improvement. I haven't done a car since my Shelby Lancer but I plan to do the TC soon. As nice as your car looks underneath, it's screaming for the rubberizing treatment:)

Reaper1
12-27-2009, 05:40 AM
^^^ I agree with Alan!

DBB mini
12-27-2009, 11:39 AM
Car looks awesome!! Nice work and craftsmanship.:clap:

turbokid
12-27-2009, 11:45 AM
You should make a trip to Kansas this summer LMAO.
Come pick up another GTC

Polygon
01-02-2010, 04:20 AM
I've barely made any progress thanks to the holidays and work. I finished getting the calipers rebuild and it was a huge PITA. Next to the control arms these were the worst. I managed to get the rears loaded and installed but the pads I got for the front are for 91 and up J and G bodies. So I had to order another set of pads and I'm waiting for them to show up. I also have a Quafie on the way. I wish I could have installed it now. Guess it will have to sit on the shelf and wait.

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/TD/Hosting/Rear%20Calipers.jpg


It's difficult not to comment every time pics of this car are posted...looks great :thumb:

Thanks, I'm just hoping there are no issues once I get it on the ground.


Looking good Polygon:clap: I should have suggested this before all the suspension bits were in place but it is still doasble if you are careful nad do a bit of masking. What that car really needs to make it look spectacular underneath is "Westleys' Rubberized undercoating" It's availbale at typical auto parts stores etc. Get about 3 cans, prep underneath with a stiff brush (tho it looks pretty clean under there already) and it won't stick well to grease or oil but it will make everything nice and black like factory fresh. It makes a huge visual improvement. I haven't done a car since my Shelby Lancer but I plan to do the TC soon. As nice as your car looks underneath, it's screaming for the rubberizing treatment:)


^^^ I agree with Alan!

Yeah, I would have liked to have done that but I didn't have the time or the money. I decided that when I pull the engine I'm going to drop the tank and everything of the bottom of the car, strip all the old undercoating off, and then apply something like that all over the bottom. I was thinking about Eastwood chassis paint. I'll have to look into the Westleys though. Then I'm going to bend up new fuel lines, and spray the tank outside with some truck bed liner.

It would be a shame to leave it looking like that when the shiny side looks so nice. You can see I got a start in the rear wheel well. LOL!


Car looks awesome!! Nice work and craftsmanship.:clap:

Thanks! :)


You should make a trip to Kansas this summer LMAO.
Come pick up another GTC

Hahahahaha, I'd love a whole fleet of nice GTCs but this ones been a fickle ----- and spent all my money. :D

turbokid
01-02-2010, 07:17 PM
Lol a side project maybe?
LMAO
Nice job. I really want to do this someday when I can afford it.
But college first. Then a house. Then a full resto on multiple cars
Q

Polygon
01-04-2010, 02:43 AM
Just unboxed a present this weekend. I wished I had gotten it sooner so I could have installed it but I said it was no rush. Thanks again Chris!

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/FG/Hosting/Quaife.jpg


Lol a side project maybe?
LMAO
Nice job. I really want to do this someday when I can afford it.
But college first. Then a house. Then a full resto on multiple cars
Q

LOL, I wish, but I already have a side project too. You forget the Stealth. :D

You'll get to it, and as long as you do the work yourself it won't be too expensive.

Reaper1
01-04-2010, 10:18 PM
DRRROOOOOLLLLLLL!!! :thumb: :thumb:

Polygon
03-09-2010, 12:26 AM
I've taken a break from working on the car for quite some time, but I finally got it back on the ground.

It's still not quite done. I need to take it down to the dealer to have it aligned and some other odds and ends. All that work and it didn't quite lower it as much as I'd like but it's better than it was. Best news it, NO --- SAG!!!!

Before:

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2961/29491480108_large.jpg

After:

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/AF/Hosting/Car%201.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/AF/Hosting/Car%202.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/AF/Hosting/Car%203.jpg

http://www.synapsepc.com/Hosting/Forums/AF/Hosting/Wheel.jpg

TheCanadian007
03-09-2010, 12:44 AM
Nice work! Let us know how it handles!

turbokid
03-09-2010, 08:17 PM
those wheels are starting to grow on me.

2.216VTurbo
03-10-2010, 12:24 AM
Looking good but your secret is out in that last pic. You make that thing pop in pics with suuuper slow exposure and a tripod:D Just cut 1/2 a coil and it will be perfect.:)

Polygon
03-10-2010, 01:02 AM
Nice work! Let us know how it handles!

Will do, as soon as I get it back from the dealer. :eyebrows:


those wheels are starting to grow on me.

Do you want them? :p


Looking good but your secret is out in that last pic. You make that thing pop in pics with suuuper slow exposure and a tripod:D Just cut 1/2 a coil and it will be perfect.:)

LOL, yeah, that damn paint. :D

How much do you think 1/2 a coil will drop it? Another inch?

Mopar318
03-10-2010, 07:06 AM
1/2 coil will drop it about a 1/4". I cut one full coil and it went down 1/2" inch.

TheCanadian007
03-10-2010, 03:54 PM
Fap Fap fap! SO yummy!

turbokid
03-13-2010, 05:24 PM
El possible.
Send me a pm if you are serious =)

Polygon
03-13-2010, 06:18 PM
1/2 coil will drop it about a 1/4". I cut one full coil and it went down 1/2" inch.

Damn! I'm probably going to start with the rear springs since they're easier to get out and cut out half a coil and see where that puts it, then go from there.


Fap Fap fap! SO yummy!

:lol:


El possible.
Send me a pm if you are serious =)

Yeah, for sure. Let me get it aligned to I can figure out how wide of tires and what offset to go with and I'll send you a PM.

Reaper1
03-13-2010, 08:27 PM
I KNOW you'll like the results, and trust me, the car won't ride any worse! Just be sure you don't get an alignment just yet!! Just remember, don't go too low!! I'd almost suggest starting with the front so that way you know how low you are going to go because the angle of the A-arms is what is the deciding factor. You want them either SLIGHTLY angled down at the ends, or just about level with the ground. I believe this will be plenty low for you and it gives the best dynamic suspension characteristics. Then, one you get the front where you want it, do the rear...VERY gradually...so you get the car sitting the way you want.

I know messing with the front sucks, but I think this is the best way to do it.

A shortcut (no pun intended here) is to measure how low you want to lower the car, then measure the outer diameter of the spring coil and divide the amount you want to lower by that diameter. This will tell you approximately how many coils you'll have to cut. I'd suggest backing that number off by 1 full coil and sneaking up on it incrementally. The work is worth it. I know I keep saying this, but trust me!!! LOL :thumb:

turbokid
03-14-2010, 01:34 AM
^trust him according to him. Yes let me know.
Though my trans in my daytona just went to crap =(

Polygon
03-21-2010, 02:11 PM
I KNOW you'll like the results, and trust me, the car won't ride any worse! Just be sure you don't get an alignment just yet!! Just remember, don't go too low!! I'd almost suggest starting with the front so that way you know how low you are going to go because the angle of the A-arms is what is the deciding factor. You want them either SLIGHTLY angled down at the ends, or just about level with the ground. I believe this will be plenty low for you and it gives the best dynamic suspension characteristics. Then, one you get the front where you want it, do the rear...VERY gradually...so you get the car sitting the way you want.

I know messing with the front sucks, but I think this is the best way to do it.

A shortcut (no pun intended here) is to measure how low you want to lower the car, then measure the outer diameter of the spring coil and divide the amount you want to lower by that diameter. This will tell you approximately how many coils you'll have to cut. I'd suggest backing that number off by 1 full coil and sneaking up on it incrementally. The work is worth it. I know I keep saying this, but trust me!!! LOL :thumb:

Nah, I'm taking it to get aligned next week. I don't want to put it back up stands now. I'm going to drive it around like this until I have to pull the engine, which I'm planning on next year.

I have to take the suspension off when I do that so I can cut them then. Thanks for the advice, that actually makes a lot of sense. That's what I'll do then. I wish I could do it now, but then again, I which I could just finish the car now.

However, as for aligning it. Should I stick with the factory specs for now or should I go with something else?

Polygon
11-28-2010, 03:55 PM
Wow, it's been a while since I've posted anything about the car. mostly because I didn't do much to it during the summer and I feel bad. However, I also felt bad for the Stealth and I've been spending a lot of money on it lately.

Anyhow, here's what's been going on with the GTC.

I couldn't get the new SS hard lines to seal. My fault for trying to get by with normal wrenches. i have some flare wrenches on the way for next time. I had it taken to my local dealer who are a bunch of jack asses. Told me this wouldn't be a problem. Two days in they can't get them to seal. They are talking about new lines. I blew up at this point and went down there. I told them they were done with the car and I'll tow it somewhere else. They then had the nerve to try and charge me over $200 for the brakes. The short of that is that, after a long talk with the service manager, I paid them $50. I had the car towed to where I had the lines made. A seat in the prop valve was screwed and a few of the ends had to be redone.

So, after a new prop valve and ends it seals up, but doesn't stop as I would like it. The pedal is stiff but the pedal travel is a tad farther than I would like before it starts to bite. Farther than before I started all this.

Later, when driving it to a car show I was getting a knocking coming from the passenger side. I suspected the axle and after a lot of questions, that's what I replaced. I ditched the intermediate shaft and put in an unequal length axle.

Now that I trust the car I really got on it, in the handling department, as the clutch isn't broken in yet. It feels like a new car. Everything is tight and it goes where I point it with great responsiveness. I can't wait to get the interior in so I can get it to the auto-x track and really give it a thorough beating.

I've also gotten new wheels which I think really fit the car better. However, I'm thing I want to try and find something wider with a lower offset that will sit further out. the stock offset leave the wheels sitting too far in the wheel wells.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2969/29491484002_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1797/2969/29491484001_large.jpg

Right now the car is under a cover for the winter. There are a lot of plans for the spring.


Find the electrical draw that keeps draining the battery.
Get a new battery.
Fix the bolt hole for the passenger seat.
Fix the small rust hole in the passenger floor pan.
Strip the interior and install the sound deadening.
Send out shifter to be shortened.
Get the rest of the interior parts I need over the winter.
Have upholstery work done.
Install new interior and stereo.
Do all the gauges.
Install new valve cover and gasket.
Install MP passenger motor mount.
Fix exhaust, as it's hitting somewhere.


That's all I can think of for now, but I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

Vigo
12-07-2010, 07:19 AM
Seeing that color makes me really miss my old Avenger.

AzShadow
12-07-2010, 11:18 PM
just skimmed thru the pics from the beginning...your car is sexy time

1966 dart wagon
12-07-2010, 11:47 PM
I also just went though the whole thread, I remember seeing the car the last time I checked out the thread. thing looked great then and great now! I love how you painted all the suspension parts, looks great! Love the wheels too!

Polygon
10-08-2011, 05:05 PM
I feel bad as it's sat under a car cover all summer. I haven't bought a single part for it or done any work that I had planned to this year. However, I have a list of parts I need to buy over the winter. I'm planning on having it in it's own garage next summer where I can have it apart for an extended period of time. To add to that list I would like to put it up and pull all the under body metal, suspension, and brakes off again. I want to drop the tank and do all the fuel lines, tank, and change the pump and all the related parts. I have most of them already. Then I'd like to strip the undercoating and put on a fresh coat of some Eastwood chassis paint.

I'm thinking of trying to fix the hole in the floor myself. I would like to learn to weld.


Seeing that color makes me really miss my old Avenger.

Really?

Must be the color. I certainly don't miss my old Sebring LXi.


just skimmed thru the pics from the beginning...your car is sexy time


I also just went though the whole thread, I remember seeing the car the last time I checked out the thread. thing looked great then and great now! I love how you painted all the suspension parts, looks great! Love the wheels too!

Thanks!

I'm actually considering powder coating everything under the hood as well.

GLHNSLHT2
10-08-2011, 07:40 PM
The plates under the "Universal" sway bar bushings that are in the bag a bunch of posts up on this page, are they steel? I'm asking because the plates I made 1st were too thin at 1/4" and started to bend. I made the next set out of 3/8th's steel. But yours are shiny and look like they might be aluminum?

moparman76_69
10-08-2011, 08:16 PM
Honestly I liked the other wheels better, but it is your car and the level of detail is amazing. Hopefully we'll see this car at an SDAC event so we can all drool over it in person.

Polygon
10-08-2011, 09:07 PM
The plates under the "Universal" sway bar bushings that are in the bag a bunch of posts up on this page, are they steel? I'm asking because the plates I made 1st were too thin at 1/4" and started to bend. I made the next set out of 3/8th's steel. But yours are shiny and look like they might be aluminum?

I got those from Johnny at PB. The ones the originally sent me wouldn't fit, as you could see by the pics. So he sent me these. That is something that has worried me but I haven't seen any bending yet. I wonder how much it flexes when I'm driving though. I believe the material steel. It seemed to heave to be aluminum for it's size.


Honestly I liked the other wheels better, but it is your car and the level of detail is amazing. Hopefully we'll see this car at an SDAC event so we can all drool over it in person.

I've heard that from a couple of people. It seems it's a love it or hate it sort of thing. Is it the color you don't like?

moparman76_69
10-08-2011, 09:45 PM
Is it the color you don't like?

Yeah its the gold on red look I don't like. Main reason I'm not a huge fan of 89 CSXs either. Its definitely a love/hate thing, I'm sure some people don't like the black wheels on a silver van but I'm rockin' it.

Polygon
10-08-2011, 09:49 PM
Black on silver looks great. Then again, you can really make any color work with silver. I love the gold on red. However, these wheels are going to have to go. I need something with a lower offset and more width. Who know, I might go with gold again and maybe I'll go another route.

Vigo
10-08-2011, 11:57 PM
Really?

Must be the color. I certainly don't miss my old Sebring LXi.

Hah, well it's definitely not the Lebaron part.. yes, it's the color. I wouldnt want a sebring either. :p

I dont even have any good pictures of it anymore.
http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk124/Vigo327/myoldcar.jpg

If you want to stick with 17s, look for a 17x8 +35. Clears everything and brings the outside of the wheel farther out. If you dont lower it a lot more than it is, you wont need to roll your fender lips (i did have to).

Polygon
07-03-2013, 03:41 PM
I know it's been a long time since I've posted, but I think I'm to the point where I'm going to have to do something I said I'd never do. Sell the GTC. My health is getting in the way of working on it and I've been waiting to see if things would change but they haven't. Does anyone have any idea what my car might be worth?

J&H Ryan
07-03-2013, 03:51 PM
Say what? With me doing up my GTC this year and the Challenger, I'm likely maxed out, but I'd be interested in knowing what you end up asking when you come up with a number. Take payments? lol. I always wanted a coupe. I know when I'm doing mine I know I won't sell it because I'll never get anything close to what I have into it back.

Polygon
07-03-2013, 03:59 PM
Yeah, I'll never get anywhere near what's gone into it but I hate to see it sit there and rot again just because I can't work on it. I'll be sure to let you know when I come up with a number.