93 2.4l DOHC Shadow

[turboshad]

Here is the project log which I started in the winter of 07 when I started the actual construction of my 2.4l Shadow. It was on my local forum for a while but that kept crashing so I moved it over to neons.org where it has been for the last year and a bit. Now that there is a designated section on TM.com I feel there is a place for it in the community that probalby cares the most. I'm glad to be able to post it up here and hope that some of what I have learned can be passed on to others. I know personally I learned alot from reading mutiple build logs and threads so I would like to give back to the community in the same way. Since it is being copied from another forum I will be moving everything with pictures since every update I made included some. For that reason there may be a few random comments that don't make sence or remarks I respoded to that aren't in this thread. So please bear with me. I appologize for the picture intensive nature of the first couple pages but it will be more normal as I update it in the future. Rare deals can always be seen on the Kroger Weekly Ad (https://www.weeklyads2.com/kroger/).

Enjoy. :thumb:

DJ

[turboshad]

Some background:

In the summer of 06 I dropped a valve in my 89 Shadow cutting me short of the 300 WHP goals I had. Once the depression had settled and the counseling had ceased I pulled myself up off the ground and started planning something new. Earlier that summer I had picked up an essentially rust free 93 3.0l for 200 bucks and split the cost with Derek Beland with him taking the 3.0l drive train and me keeping the shell. My plans were to strip it and paint it b/c of the clear coat peal (still the plan as of current) and to either transplant my 8V or build a hybrid. After much thought and deliberation I decided to go with a complete 2.4 over the hybrid. Up till know I have just been collecting parts but this week I started the mock up so I thought it would be a good time to start a project log and keep you guys updated on the progress. So here it is.

This is the 93 Shadow in all it's clear coat peeled glory. Looks a little rough now but in a few months it will be gleaming 8)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01304.jpg

This is a 2.4l DOHC from an unknown year stratus. I picked it up for $100 from some body shop. It was pulled b/c there was no compression which I could care less about since I will be tearing it down and doing a complete rebuild. Currently on the menu are forged Wisecos with an 8.5:1 CR and .901 pins, stock T2 rods with ARP wavelocks, head studs, ported (cleaned up) head w/ stock valves (until I get the flow bench built then I will port another with OS valves), SRT-4 oil and cooling mods, and the standard machining like piston bore, torque plate hone, align bore, decked, blah, blah, blah. In this pick it is mated up with an A568 tranny with a T-Trac LSD insert. Down the road I will look at a quaiffe or OBX and A523 FD but this will do for now. Once again this is all for mock up so things are looking a little rough. It almost pains me to show these pictures.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01314.jpg

This picture show the engine in the car with the level. First I leveled out the car side to side and front to back. Then I leveled the engine side to side. Once I finish the pass mount I will level it front to back and make the front mount.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01316.jpg

Engine sitting in car.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01319.jpg

The beginnings of the passenger side mount. I made a piece to fit the stock engine to engine mount piece. Tonight I will finish mating the stock Shadow mount to this piece to make a good passenger mount.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01310.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01312.jpg

[turboshad]

Finished passenger mount. I think it turned out well and it makes me feel for comfortable then the "too many neons" adapter with a long bolt in single sheer.

It started something like this............

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/DSC01325.jpg

and ended something like this....................

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/DSC01333.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

I have more or less finished the front mount. After a post on td.com I found the engine should be sitting at 13deg front to back. I set it for there and after all was said and done I ended up with a slant of 11deg which I think should do just fine. All I need to do on it is ad another tab to catch the bolt hole on the block that doesn't align with the tranny. I think I will drill the block out a bit more and tap it for a short bolt to tie everything together.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01344.jpg

I also adapted my 8V header jig to fit the 16V flange and place the turbo where I want it for my equal length header. I was a little worried that I wouldn't be able to get an equal length in but after a bit of fooling I think I have found something that should work. The turbo is angled at 50deg to the block and it fits in the space like it was meant to be. I just need to model up the exhaust to make sure it won't hit the header but I am pretty sure things should be good. I looks like it will clear the power steering on the exhaust side and the intake piping will clear the brake booster which were also concerns I had.

Here is the uncompleted model of the header. I just need to route the pipes to the flange which shouldn't be any problem at all. The rear plane simulates the firewall and they are tilted 11deg to the flange like my engine is.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/2-5.jpg

Here is the 1/8" steel I bent and welded up to check the turbo placement. Everything looks real good so far.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01354.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01358.jpg

The turbo is a Holset HE351 for those who didn't recognize it.

Last but not least I fabbed up some intercooler mount and fit the cooler in. Once again everything fit great. I will have to run the pipes on the outside of the unibody and up through where the evap can was on the pass side and where the battery/SMEC sits on the drv side. The intercooler is an XS Power with a 24"x12"x4" core. I will run 2.5" aluminum pipe from the turbo and 3" pipe to the TB. All polished of course.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01360.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01362.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01363.jpg



DJ

[turboshad]

I built a V-band flange to adapt the 4" pipe to the Holset. Well I didn't actually do it but I full intentions until one of our machinists whipped it off in half the time I could have done it in. Who am I to complain. ;D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01390.jpg

Then I was able to fit the exhaust on and see if it would clear the PS pump. Well turns out it wouldn't so I had to move the turbo over to the drivers side 1". I also moved it a bit closer to the firewall just to give me a bit more room to rig up the WG actuator. All in all it turned out something like this.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01393.jpg

With that taken care of I mounted the starter, took a few measurements and then finalized my header design. I am very happy I was able to get an equal length design accomplished. At first I thought I was going to have to go with a log again which I didn't want. It would be a shame with all my new found room without the stupid intake in the way. This is what I came up with and hopefully I will start building it in the next couple of weeks.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2-1.jpg

I also picked up a 65mm throttle body from a mustang. I really want to mount it on the passenger side but once again it looks like is going to take a bit of fooling. I have a couple ideas and hopefully one of them will work.

DJ

[turboshad]

It was a roller coaster of emotions as I started assembling the header. During the week I had made all my cuts and position each runner and welded them together. Yesterday I need to finish up #2 and then started the task of getting them all to join in the collector. #3 and #4 went together great so I was happy, then #2 went on quite well and I was more happy, then #1 came along. In my model on the computer #1 and #2 join about the same distance from the flange as the rest. Well the difficulty came when I had no way of getting all the positions accurate between the individual bends so I had to eye ball each runner together. In the end #1 sat lower than it should have which made #1 and #2 join much too early. This is where the first major disappointment came. I finally got it all together and went to take the tacked on Turbo flange off so I could finish weld most of the runners first. That is when I noticed the the 2 bolts I was using to hold it to the jig wouldn't come out. I can't believe I over looked this on the model. And yet again more disappointment. Not having the turbo present I remembered those were the holes that weren't threaded (there are 2 thread, 2 not threaded on the turbo) which shed a bit of light on the situation. I was pretty sure I was going to have to assemble the turbo and header before mounting it to the head due to the space in that area. Well to make a long story short in the end it worked great and the turbo slides on and off with ease. So in all I am happy with it. I am just unsatisfied with the two runners making it not really an equal length but I'm sure it will still be better than a log header. Live and learn.

Header on my jig...........

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01407.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01404.jpg


On the engine, notice how far back #1 and #2 join :(............

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01402.jpg


And this is why I spend hours making a jig. So everything lines up exactly like you thought it would ;D............

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01396.jpg


DJ

[turboshad]

Here is my intake design. This current design allows the 65mm TB to go around the alternator and exit on the passenger side reducing the amount of intercooler pipe I need to run as well as the complexity. It gives about 4.25l which is about 1 3/4 the displacement. I think this should be enough.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2-2.jpg

Here it is with 30 psi. Don't worry, the deformation is 100x greater than it will actually be. At the most deformed part is should only move about .45mm.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2-3.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

Well, for the most part I finished the intake. Just need to polish the bling back into it and it will be good to go. I'm pretty happy with the results. I would have liked to have it a little bigger on the #4 end to get the bend a little more perpendicular to the runners, but I don't think there will be any ill results. All I can say it is dang hard eyeballing a cut on a bend to get your piece in the right spot 15 inches away. The plenum is around 3.5l and I used a 65mm TB from a *cough* mustang *cough cough*. I used a 3" 16ga mandrel bent pipe and then one of the guys at work, who is a master with the break, bent me up a 3/16" piece to complete the plenum. Should be good and strong. Now I just have to mock up the IC piping and I can tear everything out to begin the body work. I am almost seeing the light ;D Here's some pics for y'all.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01477.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01472.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01476.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01479.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01481.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01482.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01484.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01495.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01498.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01500.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01502.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

Finished the intercooler pipes. Well mocked up anyway. Still need to final weld, put the BOV on and polish but that can all be done without the engine in the car. I think it looks pretty good. The pipe from the turbo to the first silicone joint was a bit of a pig but besides that it went pretty smooth. Here's some pics as always.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01506.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01508.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01510.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01514.jpg

Now it's time to yard the engine and begin the body work.....................I hate body work. >:(

DJ

[turboshad]

I wanted to let more air into the IC without really changing the stock appearance. This is what I came up with. I'll just go sort of step by step with the pictures. I used Norton Speedgrip urethane adhesive to join the parts and Norton Speedgrip epoxy filler to shape things out. I used these because they are meant for repairing plastics like bumpers and they will bend with the bumper and not crack like fibre glass or bondo.

Here is what I started with.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01517.jpg

Then I cut out the top and half the sides to move everything up and in a bit.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01520.jpg

I had to section the top so I could bring everything inside the marker lamps.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01522.jpg

Then I cut out the bottom to bring it in to match the top

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01529.jpg

Here's my hard to find donor bumper. Seems you can always find a 90+ ES bumper when you don't need it. Typical >:(

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01530.jpg

Most of the parts glued in. Still a couple pieces to trim and some left over holes.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01535.jpg

Everything glued in and roughed out

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01536.jpg

Things always work great until the actual bumper gets in the way. Knew that was coming so that got the chop too.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01542.jpg

And this is where I am now. I'm almost finished, just a few low spots to fill and a bunch more sanding.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01546.jpg



So to wrap things up this is what things look like stock (my old shadow)

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/621000-621999/621520_66_full.jpg

Compared to the much improved modded sucka

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Bumper/DSC01545.jpg


All in all a fun project. A heck of alot of work for how much extra flow I actually got but it kept things looking much more stock and much less ricey than getting an aftermarket piece or something.

DJ

[turboshad]

I finished up the front bumper. I also positioned the muffler and cut out the back bumper to fit. To do that I needed to construct the back portion of the exhaust to situate it properly. The exhaust will be 4" to an electronic dump and then 3" back through 2 3" straight through magnaflow mufflers. For the E-cutout I will be using two window switches from an intrepid and using the current sensing portion of them so I just have to touch a button and it will open and sense when it is completely open then turn off. The same for closing.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01570.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01571.jpg

Last night I patched up a couple holes in the firewall. I took out the AC and heater core. I figured I would only be driving it in the summer and heater lines are ugly so who needs it. And instead of the AC I will compromise and put in my power windows from the 8V. I mean c'mon, we live in Alberta ;D I also put out at least 8-10 fires as sparks shot onto the carpet underlay. It was quite an exhilarating patch job :-[. I think I found almost everything that would burn while welding a fire wall. Maybe that is why it is called a fire wall.......because everything behind it combusts in seconds and you would have a wall of fire.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01565.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01566.jpg

Notice all the pulled back underlay. Some of it done quite frantically :o

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01569.jpg

I also started sanding one of the fenders and came to the conclusion that there is an easier way to get rid of all the paint. So I went and bought a gallon of aircraft paint stripper that should do the trick. I will be prepping this next week and then I will be taking 2 days off after the long weekend so I will have 5 full days to finish the paint job. I am nervous yet very excited to get this portion done. It will feel good to start assembling.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01568.jpg


DJ

[turboshad]

I spent 40 hrs (3 12 hr days and 4 hrs Friday night) and what does it get me?? A car with no paint. Some things just sound easier when you talk about them. Like hey, I'm going to paint my car. O well, tomorrow is primer then one more solid day of sanding and then paint. I can't wait for this to be done. It has been pure hell. I hate body work with a passion.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01572.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01574.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

After close to 80 hours in 6 days I had everything stripped, sanded, primed, blocked and the plastic/misc pieces painted. Then when I went to prime the few bare spots after blocking the car something went wrong with the primer and it brought everything to a quick halt. But the problem is figured out now (hopefully) and there isn't too much repair/sanding that needs to be done to rectify the situation so it looks like I will be finishing things tomorrow when it is a bit warmer. Here are some pics so far. The color is exactly what I was looking for. Pretty much looks black until the sun hits it then it is a deep deep blue. I think the whole car is going to look awesome.

Car goes in as some bare steel and minor bondo.....

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01582.jpg

And comes out a nice flat grey. I gotta say by this point I was very tempted to leave it in primer. I think flat grey is the next greatest thing ;D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01586.jpg

First one to find enough part for a complete Shadow wins ::)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01588.jpg

Luckily I kept going because this color absolutely rocks. Unfortunately it will be showing some of my inexperienced body work but there will only be a couple waves. Nothing major. But I don't care. So far I am quite happy with the turn out. I think the front bumper turned out great too.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01589.jpg



DJ

[turboshad]

Painting is FINALLY DONE !!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D

There are a few runs and sags but that is to be suspected with the lighting and ventilation I had and it's nothing a bit of wet sanding won't cure. Par for the course with a garage job. O well, it will just force me to color sand it. Here are some pics from tonight. I'm getting sent to San Francisco for a few days so I will get some pics in the sun on the weekend. I think it turned out pretty good given the circumstances though. I pretty pleased with it.

Before the clear.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01591.jpg

and after

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01595.jpg

mmmmmmmmm............no more painting...... :D

[turboshad]

Well, I'm finally starting to put stuff on the car that I don't have to take off again. That feels good ;D

I cleaned up a K-frame I picked up at the wreckers and installed that with some konis and my Eibachs from the last car. I am excited to finally drive with some struts and shocks that can keep up with the springs. When I went to put the larger piston calipers and 11" discs it donned on me that I didn't have any caliper mounts for the cast control arm so I will have to pick some of those up later before I can get the brakes on (hope I spelt that right Rob ;) ). And for the pictures as always.

Mmmmmmmmm Knois........Eibachs.......first one to spot the magic tool to getting a car back into the garage from a sloped driveway when by yourself wins a prize.......though I'm not quite sure what the prize is. I gotta say it's been a life saver though.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01671.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01677.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01682.jpg

Since I couldn't get the brakes done I started color sanding and getting rid of all those pesky garage job runs in the clear. The thing is gonna shine when it's done though ;D and show every mistake I made :-\ but it sure looks a hell of alot better than when I started.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01683.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01680.jpg

Still a long ways to go though but assembly does feel good. I'm hoping to get the hand brake done soon and then I can start putting the interior back in.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01685.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

Did some buffing after some long hours of color sanding. When I did a test spot on I was afraid I was going to have to hit the wet sandpaper again because I could still see scratches. Well after some reading I upped the speed on the buffer and did a few more passes. Well I can't say all the sanding scratches are out but you can only see them under the proper light and heck a) it's still a dodge shadow and b) it's not a show car so chances are it will get some scratches once I start driving. Final conclusion is it's good enough for me. If I ever feel like it later I can hit it with some more 2000 grit but I spent enough time on it for now.

For those who don't know what color sanding is, it's when you sand down all the texture (and in my case some runs and sags) so you have a flat surface. In my previous pictures you can see one where I have sanded the back but not the front. The finish turns dull as you cut down the clear coat. I believe it is called color sanding b/c it used to be done on the old single stage paints that didn't have any clear coat so you were actually sanding the color. Now if I do sand into the color I have to re-clear the whole panel because it is ruined in that one spot. Once all the sanding is done (I went through 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit) you buff it with an rotary buffer to bring the gloss back. In my case I am using Meguiars products and have currently done the hood with a #84 cutting compound with a wool pad and then a cutting foam pad. Later I will follow up with two more less aggressive compounds to bring out even more shine.

In this pick you can see the difference between the buffed side and the sanded side. This is after only the wool pad and the #84 compound. The second pick was the test panel I did with the two lighter compounds though I will be using different ones for the whole car. Once again you can see the contrast from the hood to the fender which isn't polished.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01709.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01708.jpg

Here is the hood last night after using the wool pad and the foam pad with the aggressive compound. Still more shine to come. I am quite excited to see the whole car. ;D (sorry for the poor garage lighting and dust spots on the camera)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01712.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC01716-1.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

If you are actually reading this here is the neon part :D


Neon Hand E-Brake in a Shadow how to:

Parts needed:

Neon hand brake
Neon center console
Neon shifter. (need to merge this with the Shadow shifter to get the boot mounts)
Hand brake mount from a Daytona
Short radio bezel from some newer Shadows
Hand brake cables. I used ones from a Daytona but they were a tad long. I didn't try it but I would be willing to bet the cables from a Neon would fit almost perfectly.
A welder preferably not TIG. It sucked like no tomorrow trying to operate a foot pedal, torch and feed wire while sitting in the back of a car. I could think of better things to do with my time. >:(


1:

Cut off the center console mount welded/brazed to the floor of the Shadow. Be careful not to cut through the floor b/c it is a royal PITA to patch up..........so I've heard....... ::)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01692.jpg

2:

Cut the rear of the Daytona hand brake mount leaving enough to reach the rear mounting bolts on the car when things are lined up. Also cut off any un-needed parts.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01694.jpg

3:

Take measurements from the neon as to the placement of the hand brake and the cable mounts with respects to the shifter. Also note I had to move the shifter forward 1" in my car to get the center console to line up with the seat hump properly. Drill a couple holes in the rear plate to position the hand brake. I personally welded the bolts on so I didn't have to worry about them.

I haven't done this step yet but now might be a good time to cut the top of the Neon shifter off, do the same to your Shadow shifter, and weld the Neon top to the Shadow bottom. This gives you the Neon boot mounts which will help you line up the shifter. Hope that makes sense since I don't have a pic of that step.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01731.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01696.jpg

4:

Once everything is lined up to your satisfaction, cut the ridges just behind the hand brake and bend the back down so the cable mounts touch the floor. Then make a strap that will bolt through the rear 2 slots and weld that to the floor. Remember to leave enough play in the bolt holes to be able to remove it after you tack the strap down. You can also see in the first pic the plates I welded on which will line up with the back 2 screw holes in the neon Console to secure it down. 2 more plates will have to be welded to the front shifter mount piece for the same purpose in the front.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01729.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01727.jpg

5:

You're pretty much done. Bolt everything up and throw it together. If you did everything right the Neon center console should pretty much fit like a glove. When I was test fitting it with carpet about the only real thing I could see was maybe heating up the front corners and bending them in a bit but that was just for fit and finish. The other thing is you need to use a short radio bezel from some of the later Shadows so the Neon console will fit underneath. This too fit like a glove when I tested it in a car at the wrecker.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01735.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01736.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Hand%20E-Brake/DSC01737.jpg

Hurray..no more stupid foot brake ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

DJ

[turboshad]

Finally I get to do the fun stuff. I'm starting to assemble the engine which starts with checking the bearing clearances. This is the first time I have done it myself the proper way sans plastigauge. For those who haven't done it this way it involves using a bore gauge to measure all the bore IDs and then a micrometer to measure all the journal ODs (ID= inside diameter, OD = outside diameter). I only had access to a 2"-6" bore gauge so with the rod journals being less than 2" I also utilized a snap gauge which you set to the desired ID and then measure with a micrometer. This method does add another factor of error since you are getting the error off the snap gauge and the error off the micrometer. It is also harder to get the snap gauges perfectly in the center of the bore. Once you have your bore ID and journal OD you simply subtract the OD from ID to get your bearing clearance. When doing mine I rounded everything to .0005" only to find after the fact I needed to get as close to the .0001" as I could so I will be checking everything again with a little more precision. Even at that all clearances came between .002-.0025" so I'm sure they will be OK. As always here are a but load of pics to go with the story. I personally love pics in a thread which is why I post so many. I feel they clear up alot of the fuzzy areas. ;D

Bare block all nice and clean
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01743.jpg

Plugged oil feed to the balance shafts. I used a 5/16" set screw since I felt the feed hole was a little big for my comfort to tap it for a 1/4" set screw.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01745.jpg

I asked for main studs from the machine shop and they purchase studs for a 2.0l which are a little shorter than the 2.4l. I unthreaded them 5mm which still gives me 20mm of thread engagement so I am sure things should be fine. Also the machine shop obviously didn't see any problem in using them since they were installed to line bore the mains and I trust their judgment. I was a bit worried about the stud turning when I torqued them down but once snug with some moly lube I took note of where the writing on each bolt was before being torqued and none of them moved at all so things look good.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01749.jpg

When you check your clearances you need to make sure everything is torqued down so the bearing deformation is where it will be when assembled.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01750.jpg

Long story with the Wisecos but long and short of it is they sent me pistons with SRT4 pins instead of the .901s I asked for so I decided to just purchase some SRT4 Eagle rods with 3/8" hardware which should keep things safe past 500hp.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01752.jpg

The SRT4 oil pumps have a possibility of cratering above 350 hp from the harmonics in the crank shaft so I bit the bullet and purchased some DCR billet pump gears to install. I figured I would be pretty pissed if I cratered my engine just because I wanted to save a couple hundred bucks. The stock ones are made from powdered steel and are much weaker than a billet set. The DCR gears also have a little looser tolerances built in to keep them from binding if there were some unwanted vibrations. The billet gears are currently discontinued because they are stronger than you will ever need but a local guy was selling a new set for the less than it would cost me to get the current production modified gears from DCR so I thought it must be a sign.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01754.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01756.jpg

Dial bore gauge used to check the bearing IDs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01767.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01764.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01766.jpg

Snap gauge I used for the rod IDs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01769.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01771.jpg

Checking the crank journal ODs with a micrometer
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01774.jpg

That's it for now. Hopefully I will have the engine together early next week ;D

DJ

[turboshad]

The motor is almost complete. Here are a couple pics of the ports on the 16V. I didn't do a whole lot. Just gasket matched and cleaned up the casting. I also clean up the CCs and took away a bit of material to get to a 8.5:1 CR.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01779.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01783.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01785.jpg

A pic of the Eagle rods and Wiseco pistons. On the bench and in the engine. Pretty much looks the same as every other Eagle/Wiseco combo.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01798.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01805.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01818.jpg

Apparently there can be issues with the stock oil pick up cavitating with higher RPMs so DCR offers an upgraded pickup. Well it didn't look too complicated so go figure I made my own. I took a 1" stainless tube, crimped the end down with our hydraulic hose crimper and then turned it on the lathe to the proper OD. Then I bent it a welded it to a new piece that one of our machinists made up for me. Turned out pretty good. I did end up being about 1/16" or so too long (oops) so I had to flatten the bottom a bit. Still much better than the stocker.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01819.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01821.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01825.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01824.jpg

I also made a windage tray in the absence of the balance shafts. Once again you will see some similarities with the DCR piece. I used the balance shaft bolt holes for mine and I don't currently have a crank scraper. I may make one next year but I don't see it as being a necessity.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01828.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01830.jpg

And her is the block with the MLS HG and a bit of copper spray and then how she sits now. Just waiting for me to return to finish it off and finally get it in the dang car ;D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01831.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC01832.jpg

That's it for now. The next pics should be of a complete engine with a shiny turbo and intake. 8)

DJ

[turboshad]

Usually around the beginning of October to the end of January I start putting in remote starters on the side to help pay for my hobby. Unfortunately this takes away from any time I have to actually work on that said hobby. Needless to say I haven't had an update since September because I haven't had any time to do anything worth while. I have been doing some polishing which takes for ever and doesn't give you anything to show for it. Here is the compressor housing I finished. Tomorrow I will finish welding the vacuum ports to the intake so I can finish polishing that. I just want a picture of the complete engine on the stand and I have to do all this anyway.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02307.jpg

Today I made my first set of Polyurethane mounts. This is the first time I have ever worked with poly and it didn't go too bad. The only tip I would give is make sure the two parts are completely mixed before pouring. Mix them for a long time and when you think you have mixed it enough mix it for that long again. I had one batch not thoroughly mix and it created a decent mess. Trying to get all the uncured poly out after was a PITA also. Here are the finished products and how I made them.........sort of.

The structure I build for the passenger mount and the gutted out front mount.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02279.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02281.jpg

I used the factory mounts to create some jigs for the two engine mounts to position things while I poured the poly. I also wanted a clean look on both sides so I used some cardboard covered in duct tape to stop the first layer in the middle so I could flip it over and get a finished look on both sides. The tranny mount was difficult for this since I tried only using duct tape. It created a bit of a mess but in the end didn't turn out all too bad. Lets just say I am only taking a picture of one side for a reason. Both engine mounts turned out pretty good though.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02283.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02287.jpg

The finished product.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02290.jpg

This is the polyurethane I used. It is a Smooth-On product called Smooth Cast. It is 60D 2 part polyurethane that I added blue tint to for some colour. I purchased it at Viking Plastics in Edmonton and you can get it in these convenient small packages or by the gallon. If I hadn't screwed up with my one batch of poor mixing I could have completed all the mounts with one package. I only used a small amount of the second package to fix my error.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02297.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

I received a request for dimensions on the windage tray I built so I made a model of it to get a drawing out.

***DISCLAIMER***This fit on my vehicle but in no way do I assure it will work on anything else. Use at your own risk. Please don't try to sue me if it doesn't work since I haven't even started my engine yet***DISCLAMER***

The only thing I forgot to add was I used sheet with 3/8" perforations. This is just a drawing of what I made for my engine which is a 2.4 from a stratus so be sure to take it with a grain of salt as you should with anything you get from the Internet. Make sure you take some rough dimensions of your engine or even make a cutout from card board to make sure it won't interfere with anything. Also notice that the front and rear mounting holes are not the same distance apart. The rear ones are closer together. I used 10x1.5x100mm socket head cap screws that screwed into the holes that the balance shafts used. I also needed to clearance the perforated sheet to clear the washers which isn't represented on the drawing. When flattened out the perforated sheet measures 14.5"x7.546" so that should give you a rough idea of what size you would need.


Here is a picture of the drawing but you can also go here ( http://www.mediafire.com/?fgncxr3ym2d ) to download a zipped e-file. Just unzip it and run the executable and it will let you look at the whole drawing as well as each individual piece by hitting the next button in the tool bar. You can also rotate and zoom in on the piece using the respective buttons in the toolbar. Hit home to take you back to the drawing. Hope this helps some one out.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/windagetray.jpg



***EDIT*** I forgot to mention that the perforated sheet is welded to the 2 L brackets. Please don't try to just bolt it all togther. I would think that is obvious but just incase. If you decide to just bolt it then please see the disclaimer above.***EDIT***


DJ

[turboshad]

Things are still slow but it looks like the remote starters are letting up and I should have some more serious time available to put into things.

All the glass is in now with the rears tinted (except for the very back which I will get done once it is driving.) I have started putting some of the interior back in which included installing the tranny cables since it was originally an auto. I bought new carpet since my cat decided to piss on my old one while it was in the basement >:( . Good excuse to get new stuff though. It was only $125 to my door and it was custom molded with all the jute padding too. I am pretty happy with it for the price.

The intake is almost all polished and I welded in a piece for the vacuum bungs and throttle cable mount. I should have the WGA bracket, WGA arm, oil filter spacer, exhaust brace and intake brace finished in the next couple weeks. All that is left after that is to build the turbo drain and the engine is ready to go in ;D Some times it feels like the day will never come. On the tranny side I need to change out the FD and install the OBX. I also need to figure out the "missing bolt" on the trans and what I am going to do with it. So if I am lucky I may have an engine in the car by the end of the month. :o :o

Currently I am looking at some 17" rims but am not sure what to get yet. Here are 4 choices I have kind of narrowed it down to. Sorry they're a little dark. It's hard to get a good pic on a north facing driveway in the middle of winter.

Enkei RS7 Bronze (These might be a little lighter in real life)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/EnkeiRS7Bronze.jpg


Enkei RS7 Gunmetal

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/EnkeiRS7Gunmetal.jpg


Enkei Evo 5 Hyper Black

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/EnkeiEvo5HyperBlack.jpg


5Zigen FN01R-C Bronze (I think these are a little darker in real life)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/5ZiegenFN01R.jpg




Currently I am leaning towards the Evo 5s. I like the polished lip (go figure :D ) and I think the boxier style looks better with the Shadow body. I would like to go some where and see what the colors look like in real life though. Any one have any opinions??

DJ

[turboshad]

After much debating I purchased an OBX figuring I could do alot of fixing for the extra $750 a Quaiffe would cost me. I got TU to send it to a client in San Diego and was able to pick it up at the beginning of February when I was down there. Best way ever to avoid duties and customs. I also purchased the "upgraded" (they really aren't upgraded at all just replacement) bolts and upgraded washers (I believe these are in fact better quality). Here is the break down of the OBX for those interested.

The diff itself in it's poorly machined glory
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02409.jpg

After removing 9 allan head cap screws the ring gear side of the housing can be removed and this is what you get.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02435.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02410.jpg

Passenger's side splined gear and worm gears removed
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02412.jpg

Passenger's side splined belville washer retainer removed
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02413.jpg

Belville retainer retainer (wasn't sure quite what to call it) removed
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02414.jpg

Belville washers removed
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02423.jpg

How the belville washers should be stacked
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02422.jpg

Driver's side splined belville washer retainer removed
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02424.jpg

Driver's side splined axle gear and worm gears removed
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02432.jpg

All the internal parts
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02429.jpg

Close up of the bolts. The ones with the flattened "shiny" threads were the ones that were over torqued. The OBX bolts are 12.9 8mmX1.25 bolts 45 mm long and can be replaced with 50mm bolts. I say it isn't an upgrade really because what you replace them with will also be 12.9 bolts. The extra thread will give threads a bit less force per thread I guess but still not really an upgrade. Only a replacement for over torqued bolts.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02430.jpg

Here is the OBX belville on the left and new washer on the right. Notice the discoloration in the OBX washer. Could mean an inconsistency in the metal which is a bit disconcerning........may also just be wear though it hasn't been used yet.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02433.jpg

While it was all apart I test fit the axle gears on the axles and everything slid on perfectly so I began reassembling it with the new washers and bolts. To line up the washers I used a deep socket (7/16 I believe) to hold them in place which worked great. I would recommend keeping it there until everything is torqued up to keep them from shifting.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02434.jpg

Once it was together again I test fit the axles and the pass went in perfect but the drivers was a different story. Apart it came again and after a bit of fooling and looking I found that the spline in the driver's axle gear was broached off axis so when the belvilles put pressure on it causing the gear to be flat against the housing the spline bore would be crooked. Here are some pics of what I found.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02439.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02436.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02438.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02437.jpg

I was prepared for pretty much everything I had heard about OBX but hadn't heard about a spline being broached improperly until this one and of course after when I started searching for solutions. There were no real solutions to be found on the web, only people who found it after they cratered their trannies. I'm not quite sure why a big red flag wasn't raised for these people when they had to use a hammer to get their axles in ???

I found that the axle would slip into the gear if there were no pressure on the gear but as soon as pressure was applied it would bind. Helical LSD have some inherent sloppiness to them which I think turned into my saving grace. I came to the conclusion that if I machined the gear face perpendicular to the spline bore that when pressure is applied everything will still be straight except the gear itself which will be a bit crooked. But with all the slop that is built into this type of diff there is still plenty of clearance on all the worm gears surrounding the axle gear so I don't think it will be a problem. I talked to Chris at TU about warranty and he said it was done through OBX (so don't expect him to warranty your diff if you bought one from him) so I emailed OBX with of course no response. No surprise there. So next week I will go ahead and reface the gear and hopefully it will all work out. I'll keep you updated.

DJ

[turboshad]

Finished a few more things. Engine isn't real far from going in which I definitely can't wait to see. I got the WGA bracket done and extended the actuator arm to reach. I made it from stainless to keep it strong and used the bolt holes from the EGR. I plugged the EGR an aluminum NPT plug.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02446.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02445.jpg


I also built a 1/8" spacer for the oil filter and used an extra gasket so I could use a larger filter from a 5.0l mustang. I have to thank SpeedEuphoria for that idea since I probably would have just left it. This should give it alot more flow than the supposed restrictive SRT4 filter.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02440.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02442.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02443.jpg


Today I finished polishing the intake so I decided to have a little photo shoot with the engine. I am very happy with how it is looking and how everything is turning out. Like I said I can't wait to get it in the car and see what the whole package will look like.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/EngineISO.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/EngineRear.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/EngineRight.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/EngineTopClose.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/EngineFront.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/EngineTop.jpg

Till next time

DJ

[turboshad]

I finally finished off the front mount last night. I made it so the hole on the engine mated to a hole on the tranny making sure every ting is as secure as possible. For those who don't know I am using an A568 from a 1990 TD and all but one of the mounting holes from the newer 2.4l engine will line up. Many people just skip this hole and catch the holes on the tranny with their engine mount. I didn't like that and wanted to make sure the engine was attached securely at all points. As always here's some pics to tell the tale.

First I made the boss for the bolt to go through my front mount and welded that in.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02484.jpg

Then I made a boss to weld into the transmission with a recess for the locating dowel.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02486.jpg

I marked the tranny and cut a hole for the boss

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02487.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02488.jpg

And then welded it in.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02493.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02490.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02489.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02492.jpg

And that's how she sits. Sorry for the sloppy welds on the outside. Sometimes cast can get a little dirty :mad:

Hope that helps someone in the future.

Also did up these pieces to mount my leveler to. Since every one knows there never seems to be any good convenient bolt holes to mount one too these plates really did the trick.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02495.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

With the help of one of our machinists I was able to get my OBX gear machined and it seems to have fixed the problem. I pretty happy about this since it means I no longer have a $500 paper weight. With the gear faces now perpendicular to the crooked spline the axle slides in and out with ease when there is pressure on the gear which it didn't even come close to doing before. I still need to bolt it all together and try it again but I'm pretty confident it will be good. Like always, here's some pics of what I did.

First the gear was placed in some soft jaws with an axle stub in it.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/IMG_1429.jpg

Then we dialed in the stub so it was running true. It was hard to take up the play in the splines so we were able to get the stub within .010" of running true. Every time you tapped the gear it changed how the stub sat in the splines a bit so we figured it was a close as we were going to get.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/IMG_1431.jpg

Then we machined off about .016" to get the face true.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/IMG_1430.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/IMG_1432.jpg

Here is the finished gear, not much to look at but it fits way better than the original form. Hope this helps someone in the future.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/IMG_1438.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

As I go along in this build I've been trying to fill in some of the information holes I have found on the internet while researching and trying to figure out what was involved in some procedures. Changing the final drive was one of those areas. Cliff Ramsells site kind of tells you what you need but doesn't give any real info on what is involved in disassembling an intermediate shaft or what things look like as it comes apart. So here is my pictorial of the disassembly.

For the final drive change you need the diff (just the ring gear if you are putting in an LSD) and intermediate shaft from the new final drive trans as well as the intermediate shaft gear set from the trans you are using. I'm calling it the intermediate shaft since that is always what I have heard it called. Some one can correct me if I am using the wrong name. Here it is out of the transmission.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02496.jpg

Here is a pic of the 3 "special" tools I used. Nothing really special and possibly not completely proper but buying expensive specialized transmission tools isn't always an option. They are the bearing splitter, 2 bolt puller and external snap ring pliers.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02498.jpg

First remove the snap ring on top of the bearing.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02497.jpg

This is how I removed the top bearing. I may have been better to use a puller on the gear below the bearing and pulled both at once but this was my first time and I didn't have my FSM with me at the time so I used a bearing splitter and a puller. It worked fine for me but probably puts a bit more stress on the bearing. The top bearing has approximately a 2 7/8" dia. so I used a 3" splitter. I did have to cut some new bolts out of 1/2" ready rod so it would open wide enough but it worked pretty good.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02499.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02500.jpg

Once the top bearing is off 4th gear will slide off exposing a snap ring on top of the 3-4 synchro.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02501.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02502.jpg

After removing the snap ring the synchro will come off. On one shaft I was able to pull it off by had and on the other I had to GENTLY tap it to come off. I was the only real gear that gave me any trouble. The FSM suggests using a puller but I don't have a three jaw and found I was able to get away without one just fine. If you can get the sychro off as a single unit that is the best but good luck on the 3-4. If/when it comes apart it goes together like this. You can see the steel retainer ring that puts pressure on the three dogs. (don't know if that is the correct term but it's what I'm using) There is a similar ring on the bottom. Then the brass pieces fit in with the dogs in the slots and the outer gear slides over with the dogs going in the three larger gaps.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02504.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02505.jpg

The gear underneath the 3-4 synchro will slide off exposing a split thrust washer. Just remove the outer solid ring and the two split pieces will come off. Then there is a small anti spin pin that should easily pull out with some needle nose pliers.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02506.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02507.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02508.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02509.jpg

One more snap ring and the 1-2 synchro will slide off. This one is much easier to keep together so you don't have to mess with reassembly.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02510.jpg

This is the last piece and you should have these parts on your bench. The complete gear set..

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02511.jpg

And the shaft with the final drive...

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02514.jpg

Once you do the same to the other intermediate shaft you will have a bench that looks like this.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02515.jpg

Now take the gear set from the trans you will be using (in my case an A568) and put them onto the new final drive shaft in the reverse order (for me an A523 3.77 FD). As always I hope that sheds some light for some one.

As a little side note I also got my rims and tires in. I went with the 17" Enkei Evo 5 rims with 215/45ZR17 Falken FK-452 tires. I think they look great on the car and really suit it. Now to get some weight in the front to drop that sucker. I should have the trans together this week which means I can now count on one hand the things left to do before the engine can go in. :D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Body%20Work/DSC02536.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

Well I've actually been up to some work lately. I finished all the braces, the oil drain and everything else I needed to get the engine in the car. On that note guess what I did today!?!?!? That's right, after 1 year and three weeks I finally got the engine in it's final resting place. :D Here's some pics and some right up as always.

For the oil drain I wasn't sure what size to use but I figured Holset put a 3/4" hole in the turbo for a reason so I made sure there was no restriction smaller than 3/4" in my drain. Unfortunately that meant I had to go with -16 which my gut told me was over kill but I guess it's better to be on the safe side. Of course right when I got it done MachIIIRayzer posted on TD.com that the minimum size recomended by holset is 1/2". O well, you win some you lose some but I will know for sure if my turbo starts smoking it isn't because the drain is too small. For the oil pan I took a -16 aluminum fitting and welded it in. This enabled me to get it as high as possible in the pan. It also helped with the tight clearance in that area when you are trying to fit a -16 fitting in. :evil:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02605.jpg

The outside isn't welded completely around but I figured I would hit it where I could for some extra stregth.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02606.jpg

For the turbo side I took a few -16 90s we had kicking around work and made a piece to snake around the header. It was definately a tight fit but it worked. I kind of screwed myself with the turbo placement on this one so I was just happy to get something workable out of the drain. It was a big reason for me leaving it right to the end since I didn't quite know how to tackle it.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02623.jpg

All in all it turned out good and at least it looks sexy 8)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02618.jpg

For the intake and especially the exhaust I was uncomfortable with how much weight was hanging out on them so I made some braces with some rod ends and threaded pieces and then fabbed up some brackets to attatch them to the block.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02615.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02616.jpg

I also had to line up the cams and get the timing belt on properly so I made this sophisticated tool to help keep the holes on top of the cams lined up.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02608.jpg

Once that was all done it was ready to drop in the car. For a clutch I chose a Turbos Unleashed 4 puck ceramic with the yellow pressure plate. The difference on the plate is there is an extra band welded inside to change the pivot point of the springs so it applies more force to the clutch disc with the same amount of foot pressure. I meant to take a picture of it before it went on but I forgot. :cry: So all you get is one of the outside.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC02624.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC02625.jpg

Once the tranny was on we dropped it into the car which went pretty smoothly. I'm a little disapointed that I forgot to take the classic pic of the engine hanging over the car. I'm hoping Scott will come back and help me remove it again so I can get the pick. What do ya say Scott??? :wink: Here's what I have though. One right after we put it in and one with some thing bolted on for a feeling of what it is going to look like.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC02626.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC02631.jpg

Overall an exciting day. It definately feels like it is getting closer to completion with every step. Hopefully I can here her purr by May long weekend. Here's hoping. :)
Special thanks to Scott (ssheen from turbo-2.com) who was at my place by 10AM and Jarrod (SOLID from srt4oa.com) who stopped by and added a very helpful third set of hands.

DJ

[turboshad]

Tonight I got started on the electrical but I forgot to post my fuel mods so I'll do that first.

A guy at work who is a genius with bending tubing helped me bend up some 3/8" stainless hard lines to go from the engine back to the tank. All right, he didn't really help me as much as he did it for me. Sometimes it's nice having someone who can do the job the first try and in about a tenth the time :D . I can say I bent the fuel pump lines though. Mating up to a 255 lph Walbro, I made those 3/8" as well since it seemed pointless to me not to. The hard lines worked great and only cost me $40 instead of a couple hundred to run braided. With a bit on minor tweeking on the car they fit like a glove and should last forever. All the ends are 37deg JIC so they will fit with all the automotive AN fittings.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02312.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02314.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02316.jpg

Rumor has it that welding stuff gets hot. Not quite sure what else I could have done about this but luckily they didn't short out. :o

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02603.jpg


For the wiring I started with the factory harness and removed essentially everything except the lighting and the few other wires that still applied. I'm excited to make up a clean harness with minimal branches. I always hated how ugly the factory one was. I also think this one is my biggest weight saving mod. The pile of left over wire is crazy, albeit I will be adding the megasquirt wires in but there won't be near that many.

Here's the factory harness before I started.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02635.jpg

And after tonight. (Hint: The right side is the keep pile :D ) Sorry for the fog. My wife was spray painting some tables. You don't really notice it until you try to take a picture. lol.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02636.jpg

Now to start laying out the MS wiring and getting that in. I don't expect it will be too difficult especially with my past experience.

DJ

[turboshad]

Finally got the under hood wiring done. It takes so long when you do it a couple hours at a time. The planning alone took quite a while but in the end it is worth it for a clean job. Here's some pics for no better reason than to make myself feel like I am making progress.

Step 1: lots of planning and recording. Record every color, plug pin, fuse and relay and you will thank yourself in the end. Pay close attention to your planning and you should get it right the first time.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02782.jpg

I found a *cough* Ford *cough* fuse box that had almost the perfect number of fuse and relay spots with just a few spare which is always good. I was quite happy to do away with the fusable links. This is fed straight from the battery with a 4ga wire. The hardest part of the whole piece was getting the Ford logo sanded off the cover.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02770.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02769.jpg

880cc injector wiring and some alternator wiring.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02787.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02768.jpg

One complete main harness to the whole engine is how I like it.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02789.jpg

I used Deutsch connectors for the engine and inside the body to make the engine harness still removable like it was from factory. I will also be adding another plug for the harness going to the back of the engine but 1 plug is not in yet. Then I will remake the bracket to house both conectors at 90 deg to each other. I am also going to use hard line and quick connectors for the vaccuum lines so the engine will be easily removed with 2 connectors and some quick connects.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02775.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02781.jpg

Of course all this will be loomed. I just wanted a few pics before it was covered up. And since pride comes before a fall I will most likely loom it before it gets tested. After all whats trouble shooting if you can see all the wires??

I know I have griped at others in the past for using scotch locks and butt connectors under the hood and I realize that in some cases that is because they don't know how to solder. So I took a pic of the steps to do a good solder job and seal it up well. In this picture you will see bare wires at the top twisted together end to end to get a clean joint. Sometimes when the wires are coming from the same direction it is cleaner to twist them side by side but I'm definately not a fan of the ol twist tie and folded over routine. Once the wires are twisted together get your soldering iron nice and hot and place it on the wire. Technically you are supposed to wait until the wire is hot enough to start melting the solder but I find that if you wait a bit then give it a little dab the solder will start to melt into the wire and help the heat transfer making the procedure quicker. After this first dab then only touch the solder to the wire and wait until it is hot enough to start drawing the solder in. You want a joint that looks like the second wire where the solder takes the form of the wire and there are no blobs just sitting on top. After that you want to seal the joint. A tight wrap of tape is fine but for ultimate sealing use some heat shrink (which needs to be slipped on the wire before the soldering is done) and shrink that on the joint. Then tape over the heat shrink and you will have a really good seal. Just make sure the heat shrink is the proper size so it seals all the way around the wire. If you are using just tape then let the wire cool first so the tape doesn't melt and thin out. Then give a tight (but not too tight) wrap of tape and the joint will be good for years. I have done absolutely thousands apon thousands of under hood connections this way without a single failure due to corrosion.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02659.jpg

Hope that helps some one out.

DJ

[turboshad]

Lookin good as usual!

What model is that fuse box from? I need something to clean mine up a little.
LMK

Mine is from a pre 96 Grand Marquis/Crown Vic though I found a pic of a 2008 with the same box in the same location so probalby anything about 93 and up would have it. Here is a pic of a 94 and you can see it on the front of the passanger fender. (left side in the picture) Take the three nuts off from inside the wheel well and you have a box and mount. Super easy to get. :D

http://www.ecishelp.com/randyrock/images/Buttons%20and%20Graphics/Mercury%20GM%2094%20Engine%20Bay.JPG

[turboshad]

Well it's been a while since I have added any updates but not because I haven't been working on it. I have been taking care of all the little details like getting the dash in, interior pieces, running fuel and oil lines, making the throttle cable bracket and such which really aren't that interesting. Last night though I finished tacking up the exhaust which is a little bigger of an event so here's some more pics. The exhaust consists of 4" from the Holset going to a Badlanz HPE electric cutout and then reducing to 3" and going through 2 Magnaflow straight through 3" mufflers. I had 1 on my last Shadow and it was getting a littel droney so hopefully the second one will help things out some more but still should make any more restriction. I also always hated how the mufflers hung so low so I notched out the bumper and brought the pipe straight back from the tight spot around the rear spring instead of dropping it so the muffler would clear the bumper. I think it looks pretty clean and the tip just pokes out fromt he bumper cover.

4" coming off the turbo

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02800.jpg

The electronic dump just behind the K member

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02802.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02805.jpg

The first 3" Magnaflow right about where the cat goes

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02806.jpg

Rear muffler

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02810.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02814.jpg



I also got a chance to wash the car finally after the long dusty winter so I took a snap outside. I know it doesn't look much different but I think this is the first good shot of the paint color.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02792.jpg


Things are getting pretty close so I really getting excited to fire it up. I would expect in the next few weeks I should be able to turn the key for the first time :o

DJ

[turboshad]

Well, this part of the project kinda sucks since it is all the little left over crap that takes forever but really isn't very interesting. But since you asked I finished the welding on the exhaust and wrapped the upper portion since it gets a little close to things under the hood. I also got all the brake lines made, brakes installed, e-braked adjusted so it actually works, and most everything under the car finalized.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02823.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02825.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Exhaust/DSC02829.jpg

Things are getting closer though. Hopefully this week I will have all the wiring finalized and loomed. Then I need to add a couple things to the Megasquirt, make a water neck so the upper rad hose clears the intake properly without rubbing, finalize a placement for the power steering reservior and route the lines, make a gauge panel that doesn't look hacker, and do all the final aluminum polishing and sealing. Then it's vroom time 8) ........FINALLY.

DJ

[turboshad]

Last night was a good night. I finally got the engine completely assembled for hopefully the last time before I start it. :D :D :D I got sent to Europe for 3 weeks at the end of June so I am pretty much a month behind where I wanted to be but you kinda gotta take those trips when you can. Since I got back (a week ago) I've finished polishing all the parts, sealed them with some zoop seal, finished cleaning up the wiring, and finished the assembly short of the intake brace and vacc lines from the intake to the vacc manifold. I only hit one sag...........which unfortunately is a major snag. I miss calculated where the axle would be and my oil drain fitting ended up very very close to it when it was off the ground..........uncomfortably close. Well now that it is on the ground it is just slightly touching the drain which makes it even more uncomfortably close. I think I can fix it by dropping the pan and sinking the fitting in deeper to give the extra clearance needed. It will still be close but it shouldn't hit with the suspension movement or some axle vibration. I think I can sink it in close to 1/2" which should put me out of harms way. If that doesn't work I'll have to go to a smaller size (which I have since found out would have been fine to start with :evil: ). That would suck since I would have to buy new line, fittings and refabricate the piece on the turbo which wasn't terribly easy the first time. O well, I'll get er figured. Here's some pics as always.

I wasn't real happy with my polishing wheel on the bench grinder. It didn't have enough power and the grinder made it hard to work around with some parts. So I figured I would build something better and this is what I came up with. It mounts to my bench, has a 1750 RPM 3hp motor, SS 1" shaft, and holds threee wheels. The motor is lower so I don't have to work around it and it folds up so I can hang it on the wall when I am not using it. I would say in the parts I had left to polish it saved me a good 6 to 8 hrs. Well worth it IMHO :D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01081.jpg

But just because the polisher works better doesn't mean it is any cleaner. It's a dirty job but somebody's got to do it. And I even tried wearing a dust mask this time. Alot of good that did.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC02873.jpg

Some completed engine pics. Sorry for all the dust and the some what blurry pics. For some reason the camera was having some issues focussing in the garage. I need to get it out and give it another clean again. Plus take some better pics in the sun.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01114.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01102.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01108.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01106.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01110.jpg

Aeromotive 1:1 FPR. This feeds the Lorenzo fuel rail with 880cc Delphi injectors from a Walbro 255l HP pump going through 3/8 SS hard line and then to -6 braided. The -4 line goes to a guage isolator wich hooks to an autometer fuel pressure gauge inside the cab.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01070.jpg

And finally the ooops. Just a tad too close there.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01077.jpg

If you read this SpeedEuphoria.......how close is your axle to the oil drain. You put yours in the same spot right? I may shoot you a PM on this as well.

DJ

[turboshad]

Well, got the oil drain fixed. I mean pffft.........how much room does a guy really need? I have about 3/8" now which is still pretty tight but if my axle deflects that much I think I have more things to worry about. :o I ended up getting a new fitting and turning it down to fit further in the pan and then I shave the end of the nut off so it would come in closer. I ended up with a few less threads than I was expecting but it tightens up fine and it isn't a pressure line anyway.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01089.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01093.jpg


I also updated the pics on my last post since I didn't like how blurry they were and things look a little neater now.

DJ

[turboshad]

This week I finished up the Mega Squirt. It is a V3.0 mith a MSII chip. I also added a Peak & Hold board ( http://www.jbperf.com/ ), inputs for table switching and launch control as well as outputs for fan control, boost control and PWM idle control. I also added a switch for a manual fan override. I finished the center gauge cluster, mounted the tach and the wideband display. I figured since I was going with an external tach (my only ricer mod......it was a hard choice) and water temp I would use those spots for the wideband to keep from useless redundancy. :) It all turned out well except I might make another cluster in the future. I'm not completely happy with the fit (though you can't tell in the pics). I also need to fit the EGT and water temp into the pillar pod and get those up which should be easy. Some how I also accidently made the car brand new b/c somwhere I lost 165000 km :? . Now the best part of it all is this morning I put oil in it and cranked it for the first time and I know have oil pressure :D :D :D . Next step is putting some fuel in, checking for leaks, check that the injectors are firing and not staying on and then try to start it. A bit of a scary thought but I'm getting a little sick of it being in the garage. Pics as always.


MSII

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01202.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01209.jpg

WB gauge in cluster

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01212.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01216.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01223.jpg

Center gauge cluster

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01231.jpg

Hopefully the next report will be that it is running.

DJ

[turboshad]

It's alive!!! :D Worked out a few bugs and then we were able to get it started last night and almost idling on it's own. I couldn't run it too long though since there was no coolant but I'll start making the water neck tonight and then with some more tuning I should be able to get it on the street pretty soon. Thanks to Scott (ssheen on turbo-2.com and a bunch of other turbo dodge forums) for the extra hands and bringing the fire extinguisher :)

DJ

[turboshad]

well, she's pretty close to done. I would start driving it but I was honest with my insurance company so I wouldn't get screwed down the road and has so far been taking them over a week to get me a quote. Apparently since I have added a turbo and bigger wheels it means I will now drive lilke an idiot and get into lots of accidents and speed where ever I go. With that being the case they had to sign me up for high risk so it is taking stupidly long just to get a quote. I sure hope it gets here this week so I can start driving. :evil:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Assembly/DSC01309-1.jpg

Here is a quick walk around video. Nothing fancy but moving pictures non the less. It obviously sounds alot deaper since this was taken with my still camera and the mike doesn't pick up the nice low fequencies. The engine doesn't sound that clanky at all. Funny part is probably the quietest part of the video is staring right down the tail pipe LOL. It's not real loud and it has a real nice deap tone to it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-4Ck9kPRjE

DJ

[turboshad]

Well, I finally got insurance and she's on the road :D . Being honest with insurance companies sucks but I guess if something does happen I will be thankful. Anyway, Thrusday was her maiden voyage and today I guess could be called the grand public unveiling. My church has a car show every year so I took it out to that today. It got a really good response, especially from the people that used to own one. Randy (Turbo Rampage on most forums) came out too so it was nice talking with him and his dad. I've also begun tuning a bit and so far I am loving the Megasquirt. Tuning realtime is the only way to go IMHO. Here's a couple pics from today.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01351.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01360-1.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01364.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC01363-1.jpg

DJ

[turboshad]

Yes, I put it away at the end of October. Things get a little chilly with no heater, not to mention trying to keep the windshield clear :smile:

It's hard to give any educated comments on the intake especially since it is a complete new system. What I can say is the car feels really strong on the top end. I've taken it to 6500 @15psi so far and there was no sign of a drop in torque at all. Seat of the pants sign that is. Before I ported the wastegate hole on the Holset I would get this wierd case where it would spool to about ~15psi and then around 5500 RPM it would get a second spool and go uncontrolably. All I can figure is around that RPM there would be a significant enough change in the flow that it would be enough to spool the turbo more. The higher RPM would make sence with a short runner intake and exhaust. Once I ported the WG hole to be able to keep things steady it was better. I still wasn't happy with the MS boost control abilities so I purchased an AVCR which I didn't get till the middle of October. That gave me about 2 weeks to fool with it and get some steady boost in all the gears but by that time traction was getting limited with the cooler weather.

When March hits I will be looking for a window in the weather to get it back to my garage to start the spring list. I need to re-align the transmission since I feel I missed the mark by enough of a hair to take out the input shaft bearings in just over 2000 km. I didn't really think about lining it up the first time since I assumed the bolts would do that. I was wrong. That means I will also need to check the main bearings to see how they are doing.

I will also be building some chromoly control arms soon which I will install in the spring along with lengthened king pins and possibly some bump steer adjustments to make up for the drop. The drop will come from a couple Ground Control coil over kits I picked up new for $100 each :good: One thing I didn't like was how high the car rides. I think with another inch of drop it should look much better, and the coil overs will give me much more option when it comes to spring rates. Unfortunately without the car I couldn't calculate the actual rates I wanted to I got a combo of 450lb, 380lb, and 250lb springs that I will try in differeny combinations.

Oh, and of course I will also tune in more boost and get it on the dyno and out to the track to get some somewhat more scientific speculations on the performace of the intake and the rest of the system.

Can't have a post without pics so heres the AVCR which I will inset into the dash in the spring for a cleaner look. I'm not a real fan of it sitting out like that but it got the job done for the 2 weeks I used it.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01517.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01523.jpg

The full "----pit"

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01526.jpg

My BRAND NEW!! $100 Ground Control kits.....possibly the best score of the year. The first is for a prelude, and the other is for a focus.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01658.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01657.jpg

Once I start the control arms I will post some progress.

DJ

[turboshad]

This spring I will be building some chromoly control arms for the Shadow. Besides the fact that I just like building things, they should be benificial in unsprung weight, ability to raise roll center after drop and provisions for caster adjustment.

Currently the deign incorporates 3/4" MM rod ends (actually FK's JM rod ends which cross to the more popular Aurora MM units), a 3/4" Aurora PWB-T shperical bearing in place of the ball joint and 1" .065 wall chromoly tube.

I have figured that loading on the arm is limited by tire traction. From what I can find, road tires have a coefficient of friction (Us) of around .8 and drag slicks can be around 1.2-1.4. With a 2800lb car and ~60/40 split that puts a normal force of 840lbs on each tire. Using a Us of 1.4, the force on the upright bearing at the axle will be ~1200lbs. Without having my car out of storage to measure yet, I figured there would be about an 80/20 ratio from the axle to ball joint and axle to the strut mount on the frame. This means 80% of the 1200 will go through the control arm which is ~1000lbs. For this reason I have used 1000 lbs as a force in all my simulations including braking. Theoretically, my braking forces will probably be less since I will most likely only be getting to that limit on street tires which have a Us of .8 but with the added weight transfer to the front it might not be far off.

After a couple interations and FEAs trying it without bracing, with bracing, and with 1/2" rod ends I have come to this which weighs in at ~ 4.75 lbs. I guess to be honest I haven't weighed the stock cast piece so maybe my weight advantage is a pipe dream. (Passanger side being displayed)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/controlarm1.jpg

The worst case seemed to be under acceleration with the 1000lb force. The first picture is an overall view with distortion magnified by 50 times with the maximum displacement (which is at the spherical bearing) being 0.03"

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/controlarm1displacement.jpg

The next is a factory of safety chart which goes like this 1(red)<= FS <= 5(blue). So anything red is below a factory of safety of 1 and anything blue is above 5. The in between is shown in the gradient. For those that don't know, below a FS of 1 the material will yield and permantly deform.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/controlarm1fs.jpg

The last is an iso clipping of the FS chart that shows the areas below a FS of 3. From this view you can barely see anything below 2 which is why I did my clip at 3.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/controlarm1iso3.jpg

If there is anyone with more experience than myself in this department I am open to any comments on the design and my theory especially in the determining of forces. What I have displayed will not neccesarily be the final design but I think it is a solid model in the interation process. I still think there is some added strength to be had with minimal weight gain which may increase my margin of safety.

DJ

[turboshad]

So I got the car back from it's winter storage place a couple weeks ago and started on the suspension. Currently I have an Eibach Pro kit but it was a little weak for me and I wasn't happy with the cars stance. So I found a Ground Control coilover kit for rediculously cheap and have started the install on that. Once the car was back I measure the motion ratio of the front and rear and came up with 380lb/in springs in the front giving a frequecy of 1.8Hz and 300lb/in in the rear with a frequency of 1.9Hz. Since I have 380 and 250lb/in springs I will get the 300s which will allow me to have a soft and hard set. If I use the 300s up front and 250s in the rear I get frequencies of 1.6HZ and 1.7Hz which will be a smoother ride for long hauls like if I can get it out to SDAC in Cincinnati this year. I started a thread at TM.com on some motion ratio/spring rate stuff that you can see here if you are interested. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35434

I have more or less finished the coil overs with just the rear axle needing painting. I definately like the stance better now and I'm excited to see what the ride will be like. :grin:
Like everyone else that has done this I cut the spring basket off the front and then machined it down to keep it neat. Then I just made a couple 1/4" aluminum washers for the perches to sit on and for the top rubber isolator to back up to.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01768.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01769.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01770.jpg

Here is the front installed.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01777.jpg

For the rear I did something similar to CS Racer off turbo-mopar.com and made a 15deg piece to help angle the spring to be more in line with the top perch. Instead of an aluminum piece I made a steel one and welded it to the trailing arm.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01778.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01785.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC01783.jpg


I am also starting on some chromoly control arms. After a few interations I have finalized the design and should be able to begin building them decently soon. They should be done for late spring or early summer. Here is the final design overlayed on a sketch of a stock cast arm and a 17" wheel. If you are interested there is a more in depth thread over at TM.com. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34943

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/1250controlarmfinal.jpg


The next project was getting my AVCR mounted into the dash a little nicer. In the fall I just wanted to get it working and have fun with the car so I used the supplied mount which was pretty bad looking. So I got rid of that and mounted it flush into the dash. If you have never done this before, the trick is to trace out the shape of the piece you want to mount and then cut a hole in the vinyl slightly smaller so the piece will stretch the vinyl when it goes in. Once the vinyl is cut, you need to cut the material underneath to make room for your piece. When you cut the plastic portion go slowly so you can get a real snug fit and then you won't have to do anything else to secure it. My piece is held in purely by fit and takes a pretty solid push to make it go through. Something that isn't needed for it's operation.

This is how it looked before.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01524.jpg

And this is how I got to having it flush mounted.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01828.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01829.jpg

I skipped a few of the cutting material steps here since I forgot to take the pics while I was working but I think you get the picture. I think it looks much cleaner now. 8-)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC01838.jpg

[turboshad]

ROFL...........that actually crashed my computer.

Well, that's it for what was on the org. I have some spring updates to do which I'll get on tomorrow or in the next couple of days. I think that's enough posts in my own thread for one night though :D

[CSXRT4]

such an awesome build :hail:

probably the coolest p-body ever, you did an awesome job.

[BadAssPerformance]

+1 Awesome work DJ! :thumb:

[Aries_Turbo]

that thing is killer and it was nice to see it at SDAC. :)

the build thread does make me think of a few questions. :)

did you go with the lower spring rates to drive it to sdac?

do you have any knock feedback to the MS?

Brian

[rbryant]

BTW congrats on being featured in the reader's rides page in the August version of Modified Magazine!

It arrived last week while I was on vacation and I just saw it today.

-Rich

[turboshad]

such an awesome build :hail:

probably the coolest p-body ever, you did an awesome job.

Thank you. I went back to your log you had going and all the pics are gone. Boo urns. I've done some more work on the ignition map and have pulled alot of timing out of what I had posted on your thread. I don't know if this matters to you but I thought I would let you know.


+1 Awesome work DJ! :thumb:

Thanks JT. It was good meeting you and so many others at SDAC. I think putting so many names to faces was worth the trip in itself. I think I heard that you were running a mitsu timing belt tensioner that you set and forget. Is that true? If so I would be interested in what you used since the SRT4 has some drawbacks.


that thing is killer and it was nice to see it at SDAC. :)

the build thread does make me think of a few questions. :)

did you go with the lower spring rates to drive it to sdac?

do you have any knock feedback to the MS?

Brian

I left the 380/300 spring combo in for my drive. It turned out to be quite managable and not too rough at all. I am currently quite happy with the spring combo and how it drives.

I don't have any knock feedback to the MS. There is provision for it but so far I haven't heard of anyone having any real success using it. Most of that seems to stem from finding proper sensors and driver circuits to dial in the knock frequency to something the MS can utilize. I'll post more on what I am now using for knock hopefully today. And I gotta say it is probably the next best tuning mod next to a WB now that I have tried it.


BTW congrats on being featured in the reader's rides page in the August version of Modified Magazine!

It arrived last week while I was on vacation and I just saw it today.

-Rich


Thanks man. I have heard it made it but since I don't subscribe I still have to wait another week or so for it to hit the news stands. I'm pretty excited and honored that a magazine as focused on the tuner seen and especially imports would consider a Shadow. That's one more check off the list of things I wanted to accomplish with the car. Pretty much all that is left on my list now is getting into the 11s on a full interior daily driver. :D

[BadAssPerformance]

Thanks JT. It was good meeting you and so many others at SDAC. I think putting so many names to faces was worth the trip in itself. I think I heard that you were running a mitsu timing belt tensioner that you set and forget. Is that true? If so I would be interested in what you used since the SRT4 has some drawbacks.

I am using a spring loaded one, not sure which application it is from, it came with the project motor when I got it... will see if i have a pic

[turboshad]

I am using a spring loaded one, not sure which application it is from, it came with the project motor when I got it... will see if i have a pic

If it's sprung then it doesn't sound like the one I was hearing about. This one would be more like the 8V tensioner where you set the tension and lock it in. It doesn't rely on a spring to keep the tension so you don't have to worry about that failing. I would still appreciate a pic if you come across one though.





Here's an update of what I did this spring.

After a winter's worth of though I became uncomfortable with an open oil pickup. Even though there should be nothing in the sump, if I ever broke something a screen may just save the rest of the engine. So I redid the bottom of my pickup to include a screened box and then lifted it off the floor of the pan a bit more to make sure it had the flow it needed.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02910.jpg

I also figured that since the pan was off it would be a good time to put a bit of baffling in. I only baffled for cornering but I think that is where I would run into an issue if anywhere.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02908.jpg

I also came across this dead sexy boomba fuel rail that a buddy was selling and it just matched my combo too much to pass up. Being that it is from an SRT4 I had to make a couple tabs to fit it to the neon intake runners. It was well worth the effort though since I think it really adds to the visual apeal of the engine.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02917.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02948.jpg


I also wasn't happy with the pedal feal with the ford 65mm TB. It was hard to even tell when I was pushing on the pedal which made it difficult to know when I was coming on the throttle especially when starting. It was an easy fix with a spring to give a bit more feel to the pedal.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02920.jpg

One thing I had to do in the spring was to pull the clutch since I found the center hub of my disc had some how come loose and was making a real racket. Knowing the warranty claim would take a while I picked up a 4 puck with purple plate from TU and put that in to get me going. The one I removed was a yellow plate which at the time was the strongest I could get. I knew I would out grow it so having to changed clutches to a stronger one wasn't that bad of a deal. On a side note, Chris at TU treated me very well and warrantied the disc. I don't know of any other vendor that would do this for a customer after he had owned it for a year and a half. I had only put on a tad over 1000 miles but most places would have told me tough luck. TU's customer service was top notch including him letting me put it at his table at SDAC to try and sell. :thumb:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC03923.jpg

On a rookie error of my own I mis-torqued the cam bolts and ended up sheering off the locating dowel of the intake cam. The only cams I had in the garage were 2.4l so I now have a 2.0l exh. and a 2.4l int. I'm not sure what I like better but I think I will tune the 2.4 as much as I can and see what it does. Then I'll swap a 2.0 int. back in and see if I can do better.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC02924-1.jpg

Previously I had an the 255 lph HP Walbro pump from my 89' adapted for 3/8" lines in the car. Well I couldn't get it to seal where I had welded things up so this spring I picked up the newer style pump to use the original 93' system. It is working much better with no leaks. :D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02943.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Fuel%20and%20Electrical/DSC02941.jpg

Now to adress the issue of detecting knock. As I mentioned I don't have any KR feedback on my MS. I was going to build the corny looking setup where you run some tubes to the engine bay and then have some headphones in the cab like an extended stethascope. Then I came across people using a microphone for an electronic stethascope. I liked this idea much better but it still seemed a bit hokey. I bought a mic I thought would work and then I read that someone had found a flat response knock sensor. This is essencially a piezo electric microphone that outputs over a large frequency range unlike most knock sensors which are filtered to a specific band. This was by far the best thing I had seen to hear knock so I sourced them out to be in VWs but figured it would be a tough find and new they were $150. Well after a trip to the wrecker I found that almost any 90 and up VW had them and they sit right on front of the engine for a 30 second removal. I picked up three of them for $5 which was much less than $150. The use an 8mm bolt but there is enough material to drill it out for a 10mm bolt. I got it installed just before my trip to SDAC and I must say that you can hear pinging as clear as day way before you would ever hear it in the cab. It is the best tuning aid next to a WB that I have put on my car so far and I feel way more confident in pushing things in boost when I can hear things happen so soon and so clearly.


Here is the sensor.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02985.jpg

This particular one is a Bosch 261 231 013. I found that any 261 231 *** is the same sensor. The last 3 digits just denote the type of pigtale. The VW one is nice because you can grab the sensor with the long lead as well as the factory plug very easily.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02988.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02984.jpg

I mounted mine in the ceneter of the block so I wouldn't get any valve train or injector noises. The sound is very clear and uncluttered so there is no mistaking when something happens.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02983.jpg

Then I brought a shielded cable inside and wired it to a 1/8" headphone jack. I run this into the mic input on my laptop. This aplifies the signal so you can use the headphone out on the laptop to listen to it as well as record it if you like. You also need to wire in a resistor inline so it doesn't distort with the increased sound at higher RPM levels. I think I used a 33K resistor but can't remember. The best would be a 0-50K pot so you could adjust it for the best signal.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02979.jpg


Lastly as most know I made a trip to SDAC19 this year and put on over 4600 miles. She ran like a champ with only one minor problem where the bolt attaching my drivers strut to the bearing plate came off. It could have been way worse but nothing was damaged and I was able to just put the strut back in and bolt it back up. Here are a couple pics that Mary Beth (dodgeshadowchik) took that turned out really good. She obviously is much much better with a camera than I am. Thanks for the shots :thumb:

Myself and Mike_M on our way to Cincinnati from western Canada.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/SDAC%2019/DSC03001.jpg

Pictures at SDAC courtesy of Mary Beth. Thanks again.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/SDAC%2019/3670304408_897646def7_o.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/SDAC%2019/6ca8d8b376b232d505744129c145852b.jpg

[Aries_Turbo]

i had a feeling that you were going to say something about listening to knock via a detonation can or some sort of microphone. :)

ive been trying to get simon to do this on his van to adjust his timing.

you can record the sound and analyze it to determine the frequency then a bandpass filter can be constructed to interface the wide range sensor to more simple electronics. i think audacity can do fast fourier transforms to show frequency peaks.

ive been working on a knock box to compare the knock output of narrow range sensors (or wide range ones with a bandpass filter) to a preset curve with respect to RPM but since its summer the project has dropped off some cause im outside more. its completely tunable and datalogs knock voltage and RPM. hopefully i get trapped in the house some to work on it. :)

i just wish i had cyl by cyl timing control so that i could make each cyl knock independently via timing (in a safe manner... low or no boost) so that i could determine the best place to put a knock sensor so that the signal strength is the same from each cylinder. thats why the 8v motors have the sensor on the intake. it gave the most even signal from each cyl knock event. same with the location on the TIII motor. with the SRT motor, they have a specific table in the code that tells the knock threshold voltage per cylinder because the sensor doesnt "hear" equally from each cylinder. the voltage values in those tables are the same for cyl's 2 and 3 but less for cyl's 1 and 4.

Brian

[Austrian Dodge]

so you put the vw sensor at the stock knock sensor place?

piece of art, did i tell you that before? :)

[turboshad]

i had a feeling that you were going to say something about listening to knock via a detonation can or some sort of microphone. :)

ive been trying to get simon to do this on his van to adjust his timing.

you can record the sound and analyze it to determine the frequency then a bandpass filter can be constructed to interface the wide range sensor to more simple electronics. i think audacity can do fast fourier transforms to show frequency peaks.

ive been working on a knock box to compare the knock output of narrow range sensors (or wide range ones with a bandpass filter) to a preset curve with respect to RPM but since its summer the project has dropped off some cause im outside more. its completely tunable and datalogs knock voltage and RPM. hopefully i get trapped in the house some to work on it. :)

i just wish i had cyl by cyl timing control so that i could make each cyl knock independently via timing (in a safe manner... low or no boost) so that i could determine the best place to put a knock sensor so that the signal strength is the same from each cylinder. thats why the 8v motors have the sensor on the intake. it gave the most even signal from each cyl knock event. same with the location on the TIII motor. with the SRT motor, they have a specific table in the code that tells the knock threshold voltage per cylinder because the sensor doesnt "hear" equally from each cylinder. the voltage values in those tables are the same for cyl's 2 and 3 but less for cyl's 1 and 4.

Brian

Mmmmmmmmmm.............fast fourier transforms. There's something I thought I would never have to get into again. That sounds like a really interesting project. Please keep me updated if you get further on it. Even if you had the sensor in the intake, wouldn't you still need different knock event voltage look ups since the furthest cylinders will always have a smaller voltage?


so you put the vw sensor at the stock knock sensor place?

piece of art, did i tell you that before? :)

I'm pretty sure the boss I mounted my sensor to is the stock location but I can't remeber for sure. It was just one I had available in the center of the engine.


I put a bit of time in last night to start tuning the boost. I kept getting knock right at the 5000 RPM point and I now have my timing backed down to 9 deg at that point with ~20 psi. Besides our crappy 91 premium fuel I think I am going to have to do something to get any higher on pump. I can get 94 ethanol blended but only one brand of gas station carries it and I don't want to be tuned for just one station.

I also am noticing that this year I am having to run much higher duty cycles on my EBC to get the same amount of boost I had last year. I am also seeing more vaccuum at idle, like in the 24 in/hg range. The only change would have been the 2.4l intake cam. Does it make sense that with the bit of inherant extra overlap that I would see more idle vaccuum and less boost? Should I even bother trying to mess witht he gears or should I just fix the dowel on the 2.0l cam and put that back in? I'm really not completely sure where I should go as I don't have a lot of exprience with cams (read "no experience")

Please comment as I'm curious to what others think.

[t3rse]

Brian, run an undersized injector in a single cylinder to induce knock.

DJ, yes you mounted the sensor in the stock location.

[Aries_Turbo]

i like the idea of setting up timing using the "listening" method and it works great. i just like some electronic means to keep an eye on things during regular use of a vehicle. a nanny if you will to keep an eye out for bad gas, high temps etc.

using the intake, the factory guys found that they had a pretty uniform signal from all cylinders on the 8v setup. same with the TIII. they would just throw sensors all over the engine and see which locations worked the best as they made each cyl knock.

yeah ill keep you posted on the project. since im not a mcu code guy, i had frank do the code for the knock box and it works just fine so far but to have 4 different tables with 4 different values and have the knock box keep track of which cyl was which might be a little much for the MCU (arduino/atmel) and/or franks programming skills. 2 tables might be do-able and would allow for the use of the factory 2.4L/2.0L knock sensor mount or a centrally mounted location on any inline 4 cyl.

the issue with doing multi tables means that the code would have to be changed to use a timer/interrupt scheme with a cyl #1 pulse to determine rpm and individual cyl where as now it just uses a frequency to voltage converter to determine RPM. then again, i could still use that for RPM and determine cyl separately. that might work. when frank gets back from his honeymoon, ill have to see how hard that would be to implement into the code.

Berry, yeah i know i could reduce fuel to the cylinder to create knock in that cylinder but i dont want to have to do it that way. 1. its a hassle, 2. i could melt things :) and 3. timing would allow alot of testing with similar conditions without my results being faulty. i just have to see if Rob could do some code trickery in the factory code to allow that adjustment.

Brian

[omni_840]

Thanks for posting this up! I enjoyed it just as much this go around than the first time:)

[turbokid]

Wow thats a gorgeous car and a fantastic build.
Who says this isnt modern technology =)

[turboshad]

Well I threw the 2.0 intake cam back in and it made a very good improvement on what I could tune. I am back up to where I felt I should be with timing and the top end is much nicer. I'm off to pick up some fuel today to get a tune down for higher octane. Then it's off to the track tomorrow to see what the car, or most likely the driver, can do. I'm not expecting anything real spectacular since it is my first time racing in 3 years, the first time on slicks, and the first outing for the car. But you gotta get out to start some where. :thumb:

DJ

[rx2mazda]

Anyone who has seen this car in person knows that these pictures do it no justice. IMHO, it is the best looking street driven modded P-body there is! Attention to details is amazing:hail:

Now get to the track and give us some numbers!:D

[AzShadow]

This car is absolutely nuts! good luck at the track

[Mike M]

You'd better be able to beat a 12.75 :eyebrows:

[BadAssPerformance]

You'd better be able to beat a 12.75 :eyebrows:

A nice polite cross-Canada 'call out' there ;)

[turboshad]

Thanks guys.


You'd better be able to beat a 12.75 :eyebrows:

I know, my reputation is on the line. :lol:

How much boost were you running agian? 22?

I'll try to do at least one run with the same amount to see how it compares. I just filled the tank with 106 leaded. Mmmmmmm, smells so good. Tonight I'll find some lonely patches of road and see what I can get out of it. Here's hoping the axels stay together.

Should I bump up the timing with the higher octane (current tune is for 91) or should I just pull the boost up? I was thinking I would pull the whole map up a degree and if that was good try another at lower boost (16ish) but I don't know if that is the best strategy. This will be the first time I've played with higher octane fuel. :evil:

[Mike M]

Yepsir, 22.

I just turned the boost up with 114, but what the hell do I know about tuning :confused:

[turboshad]

Well I just got back from tuning the car up to 26 psi. There is one major problem..........I am never going to want to drive it at 16 again!!!:clap:

Dang that's fun!! I brought up 98% up the ignition map 1.5 degrees with the very top end only coming up 1. I figured there is lots of time so let's just get it out to the track first. If I want to blow the engine up then the end of the season would be bette. If I want the boost to go much higher in a controlled fashion I will have do some work with the WGA. I'm at an 85% duty cycle now with 90% being the limit. I could probalby take it to 30 psi the way it is but it seemed to get peeky any higher than what I have it at.

Either way I had a real fun night with only one pipe blowing off. Everything sounds really good through the headphones with no knock at all. I can't wait to go to the track FINALLY!!

[BadAssPerformance]

LOL! it is hard to turn the boost down...

Sounds like you got it running good, cant wait to hear how it does! :thumb:

[turboshad]

Best pass was an 11.860@120.7 at about 26 psi. It's late and I'm tierd. Hopefully I can update tomorrow but it's a busy weekend. If anything I will have the break down for Monday.

Let it be know that right now I feel like :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[GLHS60]

VERY IMPRESSIVE DJ !!!!!!

Thanks
Randy

[CNH320]

Nice DJ!! When you wake up we need more details! Or at least i do! :) What kind of tires were you running? Congrats again!

[BadAssPerformance]

Best pass was an 11.860@120.7 at about 26 psi. It's late and I'm tierd. Hopefully I can update tomorrow but it's a busy weekend. If anything I will have the break down for Monday.

Let it be know that right now I feel like :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Awesome! :clap: 2.4L power! :D

[Mike M]

This is just not acceptable DJ. Now I'm going to have to hunt down a certain fella named Alan about a certain kinda thing with 8 more valves to go into my certain kinda somethin'.

There goes my bank account.

[BadAssPerformance]

Or a guy named Zin and a little blue bottle :D

[dodgeshadowchik]

CONGRATS!!! 11'S!! OMG I AM SO HAPPY FOR YOU!! Ok, I'll calm down.

[rx2mazda]

Awesome job and first time out to boot! amazing!

EDIT: come on! how bout a time slip or videos:clap::p

[Turbo3Iroc]

Wow crazy man!! :thumb:

[turboshad]

OK, here's the official list and descriptions. I am using M&H 24.5x8.5 and I had a small leak in the pass tube so I had to over air it to make sure I had enough air by the time I got to the line. My goal was to have them at 11 psi but that was obviously inconsistant. I was launching around 7psi for most of the runs with everything being on 106 leaded fuel.

First run. I forgot to press the log button so I can't say for sure but it was probably around 20psi. First run ever on slicks, brand new tires and hoping for a low 13 so I can hit my goal of 12s........well I didn't have to wait as long as I thought.

R/T ..... 0.555
60 .......1.819
330 ..... 5.190
1/8 ..... 7.971 @ 89.46
1000 ... 10.343
1/4 ..... 12.341 @ 113.35



Second run was at 21.5 psi.

R/T ..... 0.129
60 .......1.824
330 ..... 5.143
1/8 ..... 7.833 @ 93.28
1000 ... 10.121
1/4 ..... 12.054 @ 116.80



Third run was at 23psi

R/T ..... 0.718
60 .......1.836
330 ..... 5.109
1/8 ..... 7.742 @ 94.95
1000 ... 10.001
1/4 ..... 11.903 @ 118.84



Fourth run was also at 23psi

R/T ..... 0.227
60 .......1.890
330 ..... 5.175
1/8 ..... 7.826 @ 94.59
1000 ... 10.097
1/4 ..... 12.005 @ 118.29



I let the sun go down and then started my fifth run again at 23 psi. I missed 4th (I know, how the hell do you miss 4th) which sucks b/c I think this could have been an 11.8 run for sure with my better 60ft.

R/T ..... 0.069
60 .......1.767
330 ..... 5.025
1/8 ..... 7.675 @ 94.56
1000 ... 10.070
1/4 ..... 12.128 @ 110.76



My laptop battery died so I didn't get a log of the sixth and final run. Now looking at how the previous logs compared to the max pressure my AVCR was reading I would say this run was around the 24.5psi mark. Most runs had very small spikes about 1.5psi higher than I stated but well over the majority of the run was under the pressure I have posted. On this run my AVCR showed a max of 26 psi so well over most of the run was probably 24.5 and lower.

R/T ..... 0.158
60 .......1.825
330 ..... 5.111
1/8 ..... 7.745 @ 95.45
1000 ... 9.983
1/4 ..... 11.860 @ 120.70


I have video coming of the first three passes which I will post when I get it.

Obviously I am very very pleased with the outcome for my first time out with the car. I am even more excited know how much more potential it has and seeing the areas I can already improve in. Having consistant tire pressure and being able to fool with that will help. Working more with the boost controller to get solid control. It was a 90deg day which is quite hot for us so there will be cooler evenings ahead. And of course bringing that 60' down and keeping it in the 1.7s. I think I should be able to get kicked off the track this year and make a cage project over the winter worth while. :clap:

Please give any suggestions or recommendations as I am very new to this. Thx. :nod:

DJ

[rx2mazda]

Awesome! That 5th run was looking awesome(r/t and 60' and 1/8th)until you missed fourth! lol. Take the tubes out of the slicks, PERIOD! I am sure you will get kicked off the track....Probably be the first time you enjoy getting kicked out of somewhere!!! LMAO

[Aries_Turbo]

did you wear the headphones going down the track? :)

nice job.

Brian

[Turbo3Iroc]

Most, probably 90% of us do not run tubes. You run a greater risk of cutting a tire or scrubbing the sidewalls over time without them. I've never heard of a new set with tubes leaking though.

Aside from that, another first timer on slicks and another great job. I'd say that run you missed 4th on was an 11.6 or 11.7 pass since you ran slower 60', 330' and 1/8th times and still went 11.8.

:clap: :clap: :clap:

[omni_840]

congrats! those are some nice #'s to go with a nice ride:)

[turboshad]

Awesome! That 5th run was looking awesome(r/t and 60' and 1/8th)until you missed fourth! lol. Take the tubes out of the slicks, PERIOD! I am sure you will get kicked off the track....Probably be the first time you enjoy getting kicked out of somewhere!!! LMAO

Thanks man. So do tubes have any negative effects on things or is it just that most people don't run them? Right now they are tubed and screwed. The on aquired a leak because in typical DJ fashion I tried mounting my slicks myself..........and I failed. So I took them in, we pumped up the tube and couldn't find or hear any leaks so I figured it was OK. Well obviously it wasn't and the leak got worse. I will need to still run tubes until I get some 8" rims becuase the ones I have now I drilled out for the larger stem. I make the call when I get some new rims I guess but if they don't have any adverse effects I like the bit of extra safety that I was lead to believe they give.


did you wear the headphones going down the track? :)

nice job.

Brian

I had full intentions of doing so but when I hooked up the ol ear buds I wasn't getting much volume since my others are full over the ear headphones which block out much of the outer noise. But I will figure that out because I like knowing what is going on.


Most, probably 90% of us do not run tubes. You run a greater risk of cutting a tire or scrubbing the sidewalls over time without them. I've never heard of a new set with tubes leaking though.

Aside from that, another first timer on slicks and another great job. I'd say that run you missed 4th on was an 11.6 or 11.7 pass since you ran slower 60', 330' and 1/8th times and still went 11.8.

:clap: :clap: :clap:

I didn't even look close enough at the missed gear run to notice that yet. Good call and that makes it exciting. Now to get some consistant 1.7 60 foots.


congrats! those are some nice #'s to go with a nice ride:)

Thanks man, it is good to finally have some go to back up the show. :thumb:

[BadAssPerformance]

If the tire spins on the rim with a tube the valvestem can get ripped. Thats why you see slicks bolted to the rim sometimes.

I run tubeless like most others... tubes add weight :D

[turboshad]

If the tire spins on the rim with a tube the valvestem can get ripped. Thats why you see slicks bolted to the rim sometimes.

I run tubeless like most others... tubes add weight :D

Ya, I screwed/bolted my slicks on. At the same time I read a bolted slick will produce a better R/T since it won't slip on the rim. I have nothing backing that up, only a bit of internet reading. The concept makes sense though.

[Aries_Turbo]

I had full intentions of doing so but when I hooked up the ol ear buds I wasn't getting much volume since my others are full over the ear headphones which block out much of the outer noise. But I will figure that out because I like knowing what is going on.

safety vendors often offer combination earplug/headphones. these might be beneficial.

i have the noise isolation ones and they seal ok but arent perfect.

Brian

[rx2mazda]

So do tubes have any negative effects on things or is it just that most people don't run them?


If the tire spins on the rim with a tube the valvestem can get ripped. Thats why you see slicks bolted to the rim sometimes.

I run tubeless like most others... tubes add weight :D

JT beat me to it. Most of the FWD cars don't run tubes, I don't think you need to worry about spinning the slicks on the rims in FWD applications. Rear wheel is another story for obvious reasons. i think it is just useless rotating mass in FWD. Most of the TDer's running 10's even 9's run tubeless.......I'm no expert though.

EDIT: all of my runs were 1.7's with 23" tubless:evil::D

[turbovanman²]

Again, what an awesome fab job, :D :partywoot:

I don't run tubes either, more money to spend, lol.

Just have to check air pressure overnight as they do lose air.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Also as you noticed most wheels need to be modified to run tubes. And as far as I know there isnt a tube small enough for 23" though I think M&H has one for the 24.5.

But since you went through the trouble of drilling your wheels and opening up the valve stem, I would just buy a new tube.

[turboshad]

Maybe I'll try to get the car into the 10s with tubes so I can tell everyone if I didn't run tubes it would probably be a 9 second car :D

[rx2mazda]

Maybe I'll try to get the car into the 10s with tubes so I can tell everyone if I didn't run tubes it would probably be a 9 second car :D

:lol::lol:

[turboshad]

Dyno booked for next Wednesday. I'm curious to see what the curve looks like.

[rx2mazda]

Dyno booked for next Wednesday. I'm curious to see what the curve looks like.

:clap::banana-mario::bounce2::rockon::banaride::cheer2::drum:

[turboshad]

.:FoRuM56:. was out for the drag racing and took some video (thanks man) so here it is. He got my first 4 runs and had to leave so unfortunately not the fastest but it was still cool to see the car from outside the cab and it is another thing for me to study and hopefully improve on. This should be my last double post for this event. Sorry if you are watching both threads and have to see all this twice. :thumb:


The first run.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFRvnC11hkE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFRvnC11hkE




The second run.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9CFZiacpeM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9CFZiacpeM




The third run and into the 11s.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCOV0Onczjc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCOV0Onczjc




The fourth run. I totally botched the stage so back to the 12s.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXmUCP78tGM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXmUCP78tGM

[Aries_Turbo]

nice runs dude!

[rx2mazda]

NICE DJ! Tune looks really clean all the way down the track. Did you lose at all? :D Just more proof that the Holset He351 is a really good turbo. Can't wait till you get it up in the 30psi range where it is happy.

[turbovanman²]

Love the 2 stage, :clap:

[turbokid]

Wow awesome runs!
More boost forsure =)

[rx2mazda]

Love the 2 state, :clap:

WTF is a 2 state?:p

[turbovanman²]

WTF is a 2 state?:p

Yeah, just fixed it, 2 stage/step, lol, :p

[turboshad]

I'm off to the dyno tonight. With the 1/4 mile speeds I'm expecting some high 300 to maybe low 400 numbers. I went out last night and put in a bunch more timing and still no knock. It will be interesting to see the difference between the 1/4 mile tune and the new one. But really as long as I can drive it home I'll be happy :D

[cordes]

I'm off to the dyno tonight. With the 1/4 mile speeds I'm expecting some high 300 to maybe low 400 numbers. I went out last night and put in a bunch more timing and still no knock. It will be interesting to see the difference between the 1/4 mile tune and the new one. But really as long as I can drive it home I'll be happy :D

That's the right attitude to have. Frankly, with the times you posted in the real world, you hardly need a neat graph to go with them IMO.

[turbovanman²]

I'm off to the dyno tonight. With the 1/4 mile speeds I'm expecting some high 300 to maybe low 400 numbers. I went out last night and put in a bunch more timing and still no knock. It will be interesting to see the difference between the 1/4 mile tune and the new one. But really as long as I can drive it home I'll be happy :D

Good luck, I am hitting the dyno too, :thumb:

[turboshad]

I got hoodwinked!!

I was sort of double booked and the guy before me broke and they couldn't get him off the dyno...............figures, Mustangs. :mad:

I may possibly get on tomorrow if the car they have booked goes well. If not I won't be able to get on until the 19th since I am gone next week. Boooo.

[cordes]

I got hoodwinked!!

I was sort of double booked and the guy before me broke and they couldn't get him off the dyno...............figures, Mustangs. :mad:

I may possibly get on tomorrow if the car they have booked goes well. If not I won't be able to get on until the 19th since I am gone next week. Boooo.


I would have been very displeased.

[turbovanman²]

That sucks, :(

[turboshad]

Well I unexpectadly headed out to an Alberta wide SRT4 meet today and low and behold the location had a dyno. I wasn't going to run at first since I had to add some 91 to my tank of 106 to make the meet but I figured I was really looking for some shift points and didn't really care about the numbers anyway. After winning the best of show (shameless plug :eyebrows: ) I took some timing out, though I still had more in than when I ran at the track. The dyno was really screwy and the only pull that looks normal and actually let me pull to 7000 RPM netted me 403 WHP and 390 ftlbs with the run settling around 23 psi on the log. This was on a Dyno Dynamics dyno which they were saying reads lower than a Mustang. I have no idea if this is correct, it's just what the owners were saying. They call it the "dream crusher". Well it didn't crush my dreams at all, especially with the fuel mix I had (about 20l of 106 and 13l of 91......... "l" stands for liters which come at 3.8 per gallon :thumb:)


Now for the good part........that 403 peaked at abut 6400 RPM. Yep that's right, it pulled all the way up top like I was hoping. That was probably the most exciting part for me since my thought went in to building a higher RPM engine to take advantage of the 16V. Once again the car is making me proud and even more excited for the potential to come.

I'll be sure to scan the graph tomorrow and get it posted.

[Turbo3Iroc]

Wait a sec, you won best of show at a SRT4 meet? :confused::hail::thumb:

Nice numbers on the dyno :clap: Have a sheet you can post?

[rx2mazda]

400+ WHP on 23psi! :hail: Good job DJ!

[Mike M]

Best of show at a show where only part of your car belongs. Love it! Talk to ya later... I have some intriguing news!

[cordes]

Nice work!

[turboshad]

Here is the graph. I'm pretty happy with the curve.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/15AUG09.jpg

[Aries_Turbo]

when did the dyno operator mash the throttle? 3000? thats way too high for a turbo car.

i hate it when a turbo car pulls up onto the dyno and the operator starts the pull at something like 4000rpms. you want to start it at like idle or 1500rpms so you can allow the turbo to spool at its natural rpm and then maximize all the area under the curve.

nice job none the less. :)

Brian

[turboshad]

when did the dyno operator mash the throttle? 3000? thats way too high for a turbo car.



I was running the go pedal but he was running the dyno and telling me where to hold it and when to mash the pedal. On this particular pass I did a 3rd gear pull and then this 4th gear pull right after so I think it started a bit higher. Most of the others started closer to 2500 but all the curves were messed up. There was something whack with the dyno and I did actually pull 413HP on one but this is the only one I really trust.

[Aries_Turbo]

oh ok cool. :)

[turboshad]

Well I made a couple mods to the car. One problem was that my current WGA seemed to be coming to it's limits at 24-25 psi. We all know that's no good. After seeing rx2mazda get a base of 18psi out of the Holset WGA, and since I am running 18-20 on the street I thought that might be the way to go. To get as close as I could to his setup I ported out the WG hole some more to 28-29mm so that the exhaust back pressure force on the WG puck which will help push it open would be similar. Unfortunately I had cut up my stock Holset WGA to make my current one so I had to buy another from an HX35. After extending the arm to reach it conveniently mounted on my current bracket and bam, I had a solid 18psi base. :clap:

Here is my newly ported WG hole.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC04298.jpg

Nicely radiused back towards the turbine inlet.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Engine/DSC04292.jpg


I also mounted a switch to my clutch pedal so I could use the flat shift feature in megasquirt. It uses the same trigger as the launch control but if armed above a certain RPM it will act as a flat shift. I can set a seperate rev limiter and timing retard so it will help keep the turbo spooled and not bounce off the top rev limiter if I shift without lifting the go pedal. While out testing it I pulled a hard shift and blew out the shift cable.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Transmission/DSC04299.jpg

Luckily I was able to find the one manual 90+ shadow at the JY to get a new cable yesterday. I put that in last night and I haven't been able to really try a hard 3-4 shift since I have been burning off my fuel for the 106 tonight and I am currently running on fumes. I also put in mechanical stops on my shifter to make sure this doesn't happen anymore.

Because of the repair I wasn't able to mess with the boost controller since everything has changed with the new WGA. I also didn't get to try a new tune that has about 6 more deg of timing in it over what I ran last time.

So tonight, weather permiting, I will be at the track again. I will be doing 2nd gear burn outs, running a tad more timing in my launch control, using a more aggresive ignition map, more boost, and if I feels ballsy the flat shift. Hopefully that will get me close to that 11.5 mark and still drive me home.

[rx2mazda]

Good luck DJ!

[turboshad]

Well, not the night I was looking for at the track. I was having serious traction issues even with the 2nd gear burnouts which I though would really help. My experience level is obviously low but it was raining and about 15C (60F) all day right until about 5:00 when it started to clear so the track was really cold and I think that was a huge contributor. I also don't know how well the track was prepped for a street legal night after a long day of rain.

Things I tried:


11.5psi in the slicks -> didn't really play with it at all so I don't know yet what pressure is best
2nd gear burn outs -> took a while to get the hang of them but I think they will be better. It was hard to gauge with the track conditions.
Adjusted launch control for more boost at the line -> bad for that night. Ended up spinning all the way through first and part of second so I turned it back down. That could be partly due to track conditions as well.
Flatshifting -> worked great but I missed fourth once again on what would have been an 11.6 pass. :mad: Tried it again and missed 3rd but I think that was more driver error. As far as 4th I have never been able to get it in when flatshifting so that may be a tranny limitation and I will just have to normally shift that gear or mentally slow down how fast I try to shift. More experimentation to come.



Here are a couple of my runs. (I stole your format JT, I hope you don't mind.....oh and thanks :) )

First run of the night

R/T: -0.039.....oops
60': 1.824
330': 5.058
1/8ET: 7.740
1/8mph: 94.02
1000'ET: 10.021
1/4ET: 11.925
1/4mph: 119.03

Second run

R/T: 0.456
60': 1.827
330': 5.153
1/8ET: 7.778
1/8mph: 96.06
1000'ET: 10.035
1/4ET: 11.908....best ET of the night
1/4mph: 120.90


Third run......brought the boost up but I can't remeber where too. I need to check the log

R/T: 0.321
60': 1.846
330': 5.227
1/8ET: 7.853
1/8mph: 96.47
1000'ET: 10.066
1/4ET: 11.917
1/4mph: 122.49....new best MPH


Nothing too exciting on the fourth but then the fifth run....Tried flatshift and it definately helped but I missed 4th AGAIN!! and I think it would have been an 11.6 run

R/T: 0.160
60': 1.818
330': 5.020
1/8ET: 7.519
1/8mph: 99.29
1000'ET: 9.893
1/4ET: 11.971
1/4mph: 111.13


Seventh run

R/T: 0.094
60': 1.796......best 60' of the night
330': 5.171
1/8ET: 8.351
1/8mph: 82.48
1000'ET: 10.764
1/4ET: 12.730
1/4mph: 117.01


All in all it seems like I have a consistant 11.9 car which isn't that bad but not good enough for me. I will be back out on the October 3rd weekend to see if I can do better for my birthday. :D

As always I accept any tips and pointers.

[turbovanman²]

Awesome job, :clap: At least your consistant, :lol:

How much boost are you running?

[BadAssPerformance]

Nice runs DJ, VERY consistant. :thumb: The 60's were not too bad for a cold track... cold is a mixed blessing for us turbo-folk... cool air = more power and crappy traction

[contraption22]

Wow! Nice runs man!

Double wow... 7 passes on a Friday T&T! That never happens around here! lol.

[turboshad]

Wow! Nice runs man!

Double wow... 7 passes on a Friday T&T! That never happens around here! lol.

I actually got 9 in and they opened an hour late and closed it an hour early :eyebrows:

It's nice living in a smaller city some times.


So here's my question.........


Should I be happy with the low 1.8 60 foots or are consitant 1.7s realistic?

Should I focus on the first 330 feet or just add more boost and power my way through some quicker times.......or maybe that's a dumb question and I should be doing both?

I am currently using 6.5" wide rims. Is there a big difference in going with 8"rims when using M&H 15x24.5x8.5 slicks? I have been waiting for a trip to the states to pick up some 15x8 Rotas but was curious on how much I could expect out of the change. I guess it doesn't matter since I will do it anyway but I was just curious.

Does anyone else flatshift, or WOT shift, and experience issues with it going into gear? I am trying to figure out if it is equipment fault or driver fault. I can live with either, it just helps in solving the issue.



Thanks for any help. I really really really really really want to get kicked off the track in October. It would make my year. :clap:

[contraption22]

1) 1.7x 60 fts should be a reality. Three things will get you there. Practice, experimenting with slick pressures, and track prep.

2) The first 330 feet of the track are key. Heck, .1 seconds in the 60ft can mean .2-.3 seconds in your 1/4 mile ET.

3) According to John @ M&H, 7" wide wheels are ideal for those slicks.

4) I always granny shift my SRT-4, so I cannot help you there.

[turbovanman²]

How much boost??????????? ;)

[BadAssPerformance]

Does anyone else flatshift, or WOT shift, and experience issues with it going into gear? I am trying to figure out if it is equipment fault or driver fault. I can live with either, it just helps in solving the issue.

Nope, I try to be nice to my trans...

[turboshad]

How much boost??????????? ;)

The 122 mph runs were at 24psi. So that was a decent power increase over the 23.5psi runs from the first time out. It was probably a combo of the cold air and the extra timing I threw into the ignition curve after that event.


Nope, I try to be nice to my trans...

Well, I think I sort of try kind of. When I do it there definately isn't any sharp jaring or lound concerning noises that make it sound like it is a harsh shock. With the Megasquirt I set a 5000 RPM rev limiter and a timing retard to 5 degrees during the flat shift to help bring the revs down during the shift. So it is different then bouncing off the 7000RPM limit. Of course I forgot to hit the log button when I did those runs but looking at the other logs without flat shift it looks like when I get back on the throttle I have about 10psi of boost and then it spools from there. When using the flat shift I get thrown back into my seat as soon as the clutch is off. It is a very noticable difference and I think it's evident in my extra 3 mph and 2.5 tenths less in the 1/8 mile where I got it to work (5th run). I think those are results worth looking into. I will definately promise not to come crying if the tranny grenades. ;)

I think I may try a harder spring rate in the rear next time to help combat the squat. I think I would be looking at a new K-frame to design in any anit-squat in the suspension, not that I am opposed to that, and I don't know how it would effect the daily driving capabilities. I was doing some reading and it makes sence that when just raising the rear it doesn't take long to have more negative effects from raising the CG then postive from moving it forward. For now a harder spring seems like an easy cheap solution.

Thanks for all the comments. They all help so keep them coming. :clap:

[contraption22]

As for stiffening the rear suspension, I don't see many people trying them, but there are airbags available that fit iniside the rear coil springs.

What's nice about these compared to airshocks is that you can still have your higher quality shocks for regular driving.

But they do have the other advantages of air shocks in that you can stiffen the rear suspension without raising it too much. What you may want to do is add limiters to the rear suspension so that you may stiffen it without raising it at all.

Of course they won't work on Lbodies, or I would have a set!

http://www.airliftcompany.com

Part number for most FWD Chrysler applications is 60776.

[turboshad]

I have ground control coil overs with adjustable rear perches that use 2.5" springs. Airbags wouldn't work as nicely, but it is a 10min change for me to change the springs out and I can adjust it so the ride height stays the same.

[turbovanman²]

As for stiffening the rear suspension, I don't see many people trying them, but there are airbags available that fit iniside the rear coil springs.

What's nice about these compared to airshocks is that you can still have your higher quality shocks for regular driving.

But they do have the other advantages of air shocks in that you can stiffen the rear suspension without raising it too much. What you may want to do is add limiters to the rear suspension so that you may stiffen it without raising it at all.

Of course they won't work on Lbodies, or I would have a set!

http://www.airliftcompany.com

Part number for most FWD Chrysler applications is 60776.

You can make anything fit with time and effort. My idea for the van was to eliminate the leaf springs, make control arms, add a panhard rod and use air bags, ahhhhhhhh, one day, :o

[contraption22]

I have ground control coil overs with adjustable rear perches that use 2.5" springs. Airbags wouldn't work as nicely, but it is a 10min change for me to change the springs out and I can adjust it so the ride height stays the same.

Even better. I was not aware this was an option for non L-bodies.

[turboshad]

Even better. I was not aware this was an option for non L-bodies.

Well it isn't really an option but since when did that stop me :thumb:

It still uses the stupid shock/spring method but I adapted the perches with some help from the pictures on CSracer's site. See page 3 of this build log.

[turbovanman²]

Now to adress the issue of detecting knock. As I mentioned I don't have any KR feedback on my MS. I was going to build the corny looking setup where you run some tubes to the engine bay and then have some headphones in the cab like an extended stethascope. Then I came across people using a microphone for an electronic stethascope. I liked this idea much better but it still seemed a bit hokey. I bought a mic I thought would work and then I read that someone had found a flat response knock sensor. This is essencially a piezo electric microphone that outputs over a large frequency range unlike most knock sensors which are filtered to a specific band. This was by far the best thing I had seen to hear knock so I sourced them out to be in VWs but figured it would be a tough find and new they were $150. Well after a trip to the wrecker I found that almost any 90 and up VW had them and they sit right on front of the engine for a 30 second removal. I picked up three of them for $5 which was much less than $150. The use an 8mm bolt but there is enough material to drill it out for a 10mm bolt. I got it installed just before my trip to SDAC and I must say that you can hear pinging as clear as day way before you would ever hear it in the cab. It is the best tuning aid next to a WB that I have put on my car so far and I feel way more confident in pushing things in boost when I can hear things happen so soon and so clearly.


Here is the sensor.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02985.jpg

This particular one is a Bosch 261 231 013. I found that any 261 231 *** is the same sensor. The last 3 digits just denote the type of pigtale. The VW one is nice because you can grab the sensor with the long lead as well as the factory plug very easily.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02988.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02984.jpg

I mounted mine in the ceneter of the block so I wouldn't get any valve train or injector noises. The sound is very clear and uncluttered so there is no mistaking when something happens.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02983.jpg

Then I brought a shielded cable inside and wired it to a 1/8" headphone jack. I run this into the mic input on my laptop. This aplifies the signal so you can use the headphone out on the laptop to listen to it as well as record it if you like. You also need to wire in a resistor inline so it doesn't distort with the increased sound at higher RPM levels. I think I used a 33K resistor but can't remember. The best would be a 0-50K pot so you could adjust it for the best signal.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC02979.jpg




How did you wire it up please, I wouldn't mind making that, :thumb:

[turboshad]

It is quite complicated but I will give it my best shot.

There are three wires coming out of the sensor with one obviously being a shield. Extend these into the cab and take the two non-shield wires and solder them to the two terminals on 1/8" mono jack found at your local electronics store. It is a mic going to a mono jack so the polarity doesn't matter. Your ears won't care what phase the signal is in. Solder in a resistor in the 30K range to attenuate the signal so it doesn't clip when the engine noise get's higher. Then you want to...........nope that's it. You're done :clap:

Run a extension wire with the 1/8" plugs on it from the jack to your laptop mic input or some other sort of amplification and then plug your headphones in. If the signal is too quiet then try a smaller resistor or wire in a pot like I mentioned above so you can adjust it.

[contraption22]

Hmm... i have a 1/8 aux input in my head unit!

I can rock out to wrist pin noise and piston slap!

[turboshad]

I can rock out to wrist pin noise and piston slap!

LOL......even though you are joking, the cool part is that the piston slap and pin noise comes through at such a lower frequency than the knock that you get to hear what matters very easily. I was utterly shock at how distinct the pinging sound of the knock was. It puts your confidence level through the roof when tuning. :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

It is quite complicated but I will give it my best shot.

There are three wires coming out of the sensor with one obviously being a shield. Extend these into the cab and take the two non-shield wires and solder them to the two terminals on 1/8" mono jack found at your local electronics store. It is a mic going to a mono jack so the polarity doesn't matter. Your ears won't care what phase the signal is in. Solder in a resistor in the 30K range to attenuate the signal so it doesn't clip when the engine noise get's higher. Then you want to...........nope that's it. You're done :clap:

Run a extension wire with the 1/8" plugs on it from the jack to your laptop mic input or some other sort of amplification and then plug your headphones in. If the signal is too quiet then try a smaller resistor or wire in a pot like I mentioned above so you can adjust it.

So what's that plug for coming out of the dash? I thought that was the knock sensor?


Hmm... i have a 1/8 aux input in my head unit!

I can rock out to wrist pin noise and piston slap!

Not me, it gets annoying, :o


LOL......even though you are joking, the cool part is that the piston slap and pin noise comes through at such a lower frequency than the knock that you get to hear what matters very easily. I was utterly shock at how distinct the pinging sound of the knock was. It puts your confidence level through the roof when tuning. :thumb:

That's awesome, my piston slap is friggin loud, :(

[turboshad]

The 9 pin plug is for the megasquirt. The 1/8" jack is for the knock sensor.

[Vigo]

I think I may try a harder spring rate in the rear next time to help combat the squat.

You might consider the shocks i mentioned in the BSX thread:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=554361&postcount=608

Also, to change the lifting of the front end have you thought about trying spacers under the front or rear mounts of the k-frame to change the angle of the control arm relative to the ground? I think i used to know something about this, and then forgot it.. but one of those directions is helpful i think.. :p

[Vigo]

You can make anything fit with time and effort. My idea for the van was to eliminate the leaf springs, make control arms, add a panhard rod and use air bags, ahhhhhhhh, one day,

Why make control arms?? just cut off the back half of the leafsprings and add a track bar and some air springs. :) Seen it done on some jeeps.

[turbovanman²]

Why make control arms?? just cut off the back half of the leafsprings and add a track bar and some air springs. :) Seen it done on some jeeps.

I figured if doing it, might as well do it nicely, :thumb:

[turboshad]

You might consider the shocks i mentioned in the BSX thread:
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=554361&postcount=608

Also, to change the lifting of the front end have you thought about trying spacers under the front or rear mounts of the k-frame to change the angle of the control arm relative to the ground? I think i used to know something about this, and then forgot it.. but one of those directions is helpful i think.. :p

Ya, I saw that in Brian's thread. I don't think it will happen this year but I think anything that will fit our cars and has compression adjustment capabilities is worth looking into. Thx for the link.

Changing the angle of the K-frame is essentially building in anti-squat/dive. If you were to put spacers under the front mount points of the K-frame you will be putting more "anti" in. I haven't had time to look and see how much anti-dive is built into our cars already but I've definately been thinking about it. I would be more inclided to build a new k-frame then to use spacers. Since the real compromises come with this being a daily drive I could build in some easily adjustable mount points for the front LCA hard point. Might be something fun to experiment with and try next year.

I think lowering the car and decreasing the angle of the LCA will also decrease the effect of "anti" so with the new control arms and king pins it should help with that too. That's something I didn't think about until now. :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Ya, I saw that in Brian's thread. I don't think it will happen this year but I think anything that will fit our cars and has compression adjustment capabilities is worth looking into. Thx for the link.

Changing the angle of the K-frame is essentially building in anti-squat/dive. If you were to put spacers under the front mount points of the K-frame you will be putting more "anti" in. I haven't had time to look and see how much anti-dive is built into our cars already but I've definately been thinking about it. I would be more inclided to build a new k-frame then to use spacers. Since the real compromises come with this being a daily drive I could build in some easily adjustable mount points for the front LCA hard point. Might be something fun to experiment with and try next year.

I think lowering the car and decreasing the angle of the LCA will also decrease the effect of "anti" so with the new control arms and king pins it should help with that too. That's something I didn't think about until now. :thumb:

Build a new K-member, you have too much time and skill, :hail:

[Vigo]

I would be more inclided to build a new k-frame then to use spacers.

even for proof of concept? spacers is something you could try next time out at the track..

[turboshad]

Well, this Saturday is the last weekend our track is open. There will be a street car shootout which I will go in. I should be near the top in my class but I don't think I will win since I know there are cars quicker than what will be allowed to do without a roll bar (optomistically thinking I might break the infamous 11.5 :thumb:). Either way it should be fun. Really I will just be shooting for my 11.5 goal for this year. I know it is in the car from a couple runs I have almost had, it's just a matter of getting it into the driver. I bought some 600 lb/in springs for the rear to help combat the squat. Watching the video it looks like the squat is much more violent than the front lift it so I hope having half the sqaut with a 600 lb/in spring vs. the 300 lb/in springs I run on the street will help out. I am also going to change the alignment for zero camber at about 3/4" lift in the front to get the most I can out of the tires. The 6.5" rims definately do narrow up the contact patch so some 8"ers will be on the table for next year. I am going to run 116 instead of the 106 I have been which should give me room for a couple more degrees of timing and a few more pounds of boost. Heck, if I can't learn to drive through an 11.5 this year, I will do my best to muscle my way there. If I have time I will also give it a quick polish with the DA. I'm expecting at least 3/10ths by the increased aerodynamics alone. :D


Here's a pic of the 600 lb/in vs 300 lb/in. Definately hefty in comparison. They lifted the back end about an inch which was to be expected so we will see if that helps or hinders as well.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Suspension/DSC04424.jpg


This is what EGTs in excess of 1600 do to a metal turbo to header gasket. The first time it happened I noticed a turbo bolt missing and I thought when that fell out then the gasket blew out. Well, this time the bolt started to back out again and what I think was happening is that the gasket melted, blew out and then all the preload was gone from the bolt so it started backing out. I've tried the wheel bearing grease trick so hopefully that seals it up.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC04423.jpg

[turbovanman²]

Wonder if the back of the car will ride like a Mack truck?

Good luck this weekend, we have 2 more race's left and rain is forecast for tomorrow but next Friday looks good.

[rx2mazda]

Good luck DJ! im sure you'll reach your goal

[turboshad]

Well, my weekend wasn't as good as some certain people with red Daytonas but it did get me a PB. I drove to the track under heavy cloud and 2C (35F). The day did get warmer, like all the way to 8C (46F) and I was able to get 3 runs in before the event got rained out. The rainout was scheduled for today but it rained all day today as well, so that is the end of my season. Gotta love when they have snow at the top end of the track while you are waiting to maybe get another run in sitting in a car with no heater. The worst part is I had a really good chance of winning my class which would have got me $230 to take home. :(

Things I tried:


600 lb/in rear springs -> It was hard to tell with a track temp of 10C (50F) but I think they did help
116 leaded instead of 106 -> This definately helped with the cold air. I wish the day went long enough to get a solid 30 psi run in.
I played with the launch control trying to get it to hook -> 4400 RPM was too much, 4200 RPM was still too much, 3800 RPM was embarassingly too low. I was going to try 4300 with less boost but didn't get the chance.
Finally had non leaking slicks -> 10 psi seemed good. We will see next year.



Here are my 3 runs for the day

First run of the day. Spun completely through 1st gear. The rest was good.

R/T: 0.168
60': 1.821
330': 5.073
1/8ET: 7.655
1/8mph: 98.60
1000'ET: 9.828
1/4ET: 11.675 ...... New best ET
1/4mph: 123.00 ..... Current best mph

Second run. Popped out of 1st in the first 10 feet. Dropped it into 2nd at 1700 RPM

R/T: 0.305
60': 2.650 .... 2nd gear just after start is no good for 60' :thumb:
330': 6.447
1/8ET: 9.053
1/8mph: 98.26
1000'ET: 11.222
1/4ET: 13.022
1/4mph: 126.36 .... New best MPH. I haven't figured it out yet but 2nd gear right after start seems to be really good for MPH :confused2:


Third run. Embarassing burn out (the wheels didn't even spin) and my hand slipped off of the shifter on the 3rd shift because it was so dang cold. 3800 RPM launch control was a total fail

R/T: 0.347
60': 1.950
330': 5.330
1/8ET: 8.178
1/8mph: 92.59
1000'ET: 10.438
1/4ET: 12.299
1/4mph: 122.36

And that was it. A bit disapointing especially because the weather was so good all week and it is suposed to be sunny all next week. Stupid mother nature. Thecar was showing some good power and ET potential if I could get the launch down in the super cold which I was really looking forward to. I'm already excited about next year and where the car can go. There will definately be a couple projects over the winter including a certain safety feature :eyebrows:

[Mike M]

Not bad I guess, I mean, compared to what the Datto might do :D

[turboshad]

Not bad I guess, I mean, compared to what the Datto might do :D

I'll be waiting....though I'm sure I'll have at least two more seasons to get faster before you pull your first shake down pass. :thumb:

[1FastCSX289]

Nice runs DJ! 11.60's is no joke in a street driven shadow.:thumb: You are where I hope to be next summer. Keep the updates coming b/c im watching you. Maybe im ADHD today and missed it......but what was the boost at on that 11.60?

Also, is your head stock or do you have port work done?

[BadAssPerformance]

Well, my weekend wasn't as good as some certain people with red Daytonas but it did get me a PB. I drove to the track...

LOL, yer funny! :o You did good man! Congrats on the new PB! :thumb: :clap: ...and you drove it there! :hail:

[rx2mazda]

Way to go DJ! can't be mad at getting better everytime out. Is this your second time racing? lol

[turbovanman²]

Nice work, :hail::hail::hail::hail:

We actually head good weather here on Friday and next Friday, the last one, is supposed to be good too, drive on down here, :D

For some reason, I thought PB was perma boner, :lol:

[turboshad]

Nice runs DJ! 11.60's is no joke in a street driven shadow.:thumb: You are where I hope to be next summer. Keep the updates coming b/c im watching you. Maybe im ADHD today and missed it......but what was the boost at on that 11.60?

Also, is your head stock or do you have port work done?

Thanks. I didn't get a chance to log that run (AKA I forgot) but the other two runs were spiking to 28 and settling to 26. I added another 1.5 degrees of timing to the whole 106 map since I was using 116.

The head is really just cleaned up and matched to the manifolds. No real port work. I would like to do a real head over the winter. I met a guy last race that said I could come use his flow bench any time so I may have to take him up on that offer. :D


LOL, yer funny! :o You did good man! Congrats on the new PB! :thumb: :clap: ...and you drove it there! :hail:

Thanks JT. We became the western America upfitter for a company called Jones Body. They make some sweet drop decks and we just built our first one. So next year I will problably use that just so I don't have to make two trips if it does by chance break. But "technically" I will keep it a drive to the track car. :thumb:

http://www.jonesbody.com/


Way to go DJ! can't be mad at getting better everytime out. Is this your second time racing? lol

Thanks. Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with my new time, it's more the frusturation with the weather and what could have been. This was the third time out this year but the second was almost as cold so traction was just as bad. I'm looking forward to getting out on some warmer nights next year.


Nice work, :hail::hail::hail::hail:

We actually head good weather here on Friday and next Friday, the last one, is supposed to be good too, drive on down here, :D

For some reason, I thought PB was perma boner, :lol:

LUCKY!!! I hope you get yourself a perma boner too before the season ends. :confused:

[BadAssPerformance]

That reminds me I need to send you my timing plot... you wont believe how little LOL!

[turbovanman²]

LUCKY!!! I hope you get yourself a perma boner too before the season ends. :confused:

Weather was awesome but no more racing for me, winged it again a few weeks ago, MAP line blew off AGAIN, this time the intake side-oil soaked, didn't notice it. :banghead:

There's next year, sigh. :o

[turboshad]

Well, We've had snow on the ground since Thursday. It's suposed to finally melt later this week but I think I will only get a couple more days out of the car. It will be hitting storage not long after it gets warm enough to give it a wash and polish. :(

[BadAssPerformance]

Bummer :( but keep the snow up there for a couple more weeks! ;)

[turboshad]

Time to bring this back from a long winter and the 5th page of plogs :amen:

I brought the car home on Friday to start with the spring projects. This fall we completed our first Jones Body outfit. It is an Australian company and we are the western Canadian outfitters. That means this bad boy will be around to help me at the track this year. It's a sweet rig for sure. :D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC_0002.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC_0005.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/DSC04615.jpg


My projects include:

10pt roll cage
Sparco Torino seats (To be picked up at SDAC)
5pt harness
1mm OS valves
Crower stg 2 cams
BC springs and titanium retainers
Ported head
Chromoly crank straps
1200cc injectors
Sequential fuel injection mod to MS
3.50 FD (hopefully will help traction on the line)
Scatter shield for tranny
Chromoly control arms
Bump steer mod
1 1/4" front sway bar
Rear sway bar


I'm sure I forgot something but afer writing it out it looks like I have some work to do. Stay tuned for spring updates :thumb:

[Dan15]

Its never fast enough is it!! :D

Looking forward to seeing your improvements!! :thumb:

[Turbo3Iroc]

That's a sweet tow rig!

[raccoon]

wonderful car. such win.

[turboshad]

Finally some progress worth showing. About 3 weeks ago I dragged the car to the shop to start on the cage and hopefully get a good chunk done. When I pulled out the bender I found that all the dies had a 5" CLR, which was marginal, except for the 1 5/8", which was 4", beyond marginal. Well I thought I would try it anyway to see if by some chance it would work. Ya, nope. :( I kinked my second bend and experimented with some sand and it still kinked bad. Unfortunately that was the only chance I had until today. Today I was able to make it out to my buddy's house who had a 6" CLR manual bender. Muuuuuuch better. :D I got the main hoop, halo, and pillar bars all bent. This means I can fiddle away with the straight pieces and notching in the evenings and not have to rely on others anymore. I was very thankful I was able to get it done today, because my next free Saturday isn't for another 3 weeks.

Box'O'Tube at the shop and the bender that failed me.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04651.jpg

My failed first attempt. Live and learn.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04660.jpg

Main hoop and halo mocked up today.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04838.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04839.jpg

The halo didn't end up quite like I wanted but I think it will still work good with the pillar bars. I will have those notched this week and hopefully most of the straight stuff which is much easier. Then it is off to Turbo-Rampage's dad to be painted, then welded in, and finally back to paint to touch up the weld joints. I'm excited to see the turnout. :nod:

I also have a stack or parts for the engine but we all know what parts look like. I'll post as I make more cage and engine progress. :thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Very cool, :thumb:

[1FastCSX289]

Looking really good, man. Your fab skills are unreal.

Why did you yank the dash....just to protect it from weld spatter?

[Rampage16V]

Looks Great!!!

[turboshad]

Looking really good, man. Your fab skills are unreal.

Why did you yank the dash....just to protect it from weld spatter?

Because the pillar bars will go right to the windshield and through the dash, not on the outside.

[turbovanman²]

Because the pillar bars will go right to the windshield and through the dash, not on the outside.

Are you doing that type of setup because you want to? I thought it was brought up that you don't need to go across the dash if you build it a certain way?

[turboshad]

Are you doing that type of setup because you want to? I thought it was brought up that you don't need to go across the dash if you build it a certain way?

Yes, I'm doing it from a cosmetic, and from a daily driver not smashing my knees on the roll cage standpoint. There still won't be a dash bar, just the A-pillar bars.

[turbovanman²]

Yes, I'm doing it from a cosmetic, and from a daily driver not smashing my knees on the roll cage standpoint. There still won't be a dash bar, just the A-pillar bars.

Ok, :thumb:

[Warren Stramer]

Nice!, I can't tell in the pics, is that MS or CRM?

[turboshad]

Nice!, I can't tell in the pics, is that MS or CRM?

Thanks. LOL, I was thinking Megasquirt but couldn't figure out what system CRM was............nevermind :o


It's 1 5/8 .083 chromoly with the smaller harness bar and middle braces. Basically as small as I could go in IHRA spec. I figure the whole thing should come in around 80lbs or so which is under my 100lb hopes. :thumb:

[1FastCSX289]

Because the pillar bars will go right to the windshield and through the dash, not on the outside.

Gotcha. Ok. I approve. ;)

:D:thumb:

[Warren Stramer]

Thanks. LOL, I was thinking Megasquirt but couldn't figure out what system CRM was............nevermind :o


It's 1 5/8 .083 chromoly with the smaller harness bar and middle braces. Basically as small as I could go in IHRA spec. I figure the whole thing should come in around 80lbs or so which is under my 100lb hopes. :thumb:

Should easily be under 80lbs, my 8 point is 1 5/8 and weighs 42lbs.

[turboshad]

Should easily be under 80lbs, my 8 point is 1 5/8 and weighs 42lbs.

Nice, that's good to hear :p


Got some more work done this weekend. I finally got myself a TIG for the garage so I don't have to haul things to work all the time. It's as old as I am but it fit the budget and welds great. If I need anything serious done just the ability to tack stuff up at home is a big plus. :thumb:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04858.jpg

Last night I got the plates tacked down and tacked in the main hoop so I could make the harness bar and rear and middle braces. That went decently smooth. I didn't even have an 1/8" to spare with the rear braces after my couple screw ups with the bender. Even at that I will need to by another 4 feet for the door bar. But I guess that's learning. ;)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04862.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04863.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04864.jpg



Today I got the halo up and A-pillar bars on. My only complaint is that I didn't get the main hoop perfectly identical on each side so that put the halo closer to the driver's side. This also made the A-pillar bars not exactly the same. :( I hate screwing up, but for my first cage, or tubed structure for that matter, I am decently pleased. Like many things on this car, being the first time they didn't come out exactly like I want but that just gives room for improvement. :D

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04867.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04869.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04870.jpg


Right now the swingout clevises are being iron nitrided so I don't have to paint them. Once they are back this week I can finish the door bars and then decide how I want to paint things which will determine my next step.

[92spiritrt]

that cage is looking great. i can't wait til i have to build one. keep it up.

[Dan15]

Like many things on this car, being the first time they didn't come out exactly like I want but that just gives room for improvement. :D



Good attitude! :thumb: A lot of people get easily frustrated but you just always have to remember the more and more you do it the better it will always be so don't expect perfection the first time!

Even though your car looks like perfection! :hail:

Great build! I'm looking forward to the day when I can start building my dream turbo dodge! A sub 10sec p body! I'm sure i'll look back on this build for help! :nod:

[badandy]

Killer...just plain killer. Question...why are the rear most bars not being attached to the tops of the wheels wells? Did you stay away from that area to keep from cutting up interior plastic? Great work as always.

[Pat]

Looking good. Can you snap a pic or two of the A pillar bars as they bend by the floor and at the attachment point to the floor? I'm scavenging for ideas for my own roll bar to cage conversion.

[turboshad]

that cage is looking great. i can't wait til i have to build one. keep it up.


Good attitude! :thumb: A lot of people get easily frustrated but you just always have to remember the more and more you do it the better it will always be so don't expect perfection the first time!

Even though your car looks like perfection! :hail:

Great build! I'm looking forward to the day when I can start building my dream turbo dodge! A sub 10sec p body! I'm sure i'll look back on this build for help! :nod:

Thanks and thanks. One big reason I built this log, short of the help with motivation, is that when I set out to build the car I found many holes in the info I could find on the net. I wanted to keep track of everything I did to hopefully help others that were looking for info like I was. I hope my triumphs and mistakes help others make their projects that much better. :thumb:


Killer...just plain killer. Question...why are the rear most bars not being attached to the tops of the wheels wells? Did you stay away from that area to keep from cutting up interior plastic? Great work as always.

I'll be brutely honest that I didn't even think to put them there. The main reason they go to the back is that is what I saw most people doing. If, by chance, I would have been thoughtful enough to think of that option I think I still would have gone the route I did. My reasoning would have been that in most cars, the wheel wells are part in parcel to the rear strut assembly and therefore are made quite strong. On a P-body, and I think most TDs short of the L-bodies, there is no rear strut so the wheel well isn't build as structurally as most cars. Where I have my rear braces going is right to the top of the main cross member behind the fuel tank. I think in the rear this is the most structural part. I'll admit it was also a bit of a fluke since I hade a 7 foot piece after my mistakes and it was exactly 3 1/2 feet for each bar. :D


Looking good. Can you snap a pic or two of the A pillar bars as they bend by the floor and at the attachment point to the floor? I'm scavenging for ideas for my own roll bar to cage conversion.

Thanks Pat, I'll snap a couple pics tomorrow. When I was putting them in I thought it may be a bit intrusive in the foot area since they look to extend quite a ways to the interior. Today I threw a seat in and was pleased to find I don't even notice it. :p I brought them in that far knowing my welding abilities and that I would probalby have trouble if they were too tight to the sill. I also mocked up a door bar and was happy to see that the line from the main hoop to the bottom of the A-pillar bar will just miss the arm rest on the door and the front of the seat while still not catching my elbow while steering. It's always nice to see things come together unintetionally. I originally was thinking I would have to notch out the arm rest to have clearance and wasn't sure how to do that cleanly. I'm happy to see that won't be the case. :D

[BadAssPerformance]

....My reasoning would have been that in most cars, the wheel wells are part in parcel to the rear strut assembly and therefore are made quite strong. On a P-body, and I think most TDs short of the L-bodies, there is no rear strut so the wheel well isn't build as structurally as most cars. Where I have my rear braces going is right to the top of the main cross member behind the fuel tank. I think in the rear this is the most structural part. I'll admit it was also a bit of a fluke since I hade a 7 foot piece after my mistakes and it was exactly 3 1/2 feet for each bar. :D

The S&W kit I have is designed to go to the rear floor... mounted to plates right over the quasi-frame rail sections under the floor.

BTW, Lookin good! :thumb:

[Reeves]

Looking good!!!

:thumb:

[omni_840]

Nice work:)

[turboshad]

I got my pieces back from being iron nitrided today. I think they turned out great so hopefully the coating preforms like I want. With the swingouts that I made in hand I could now get to the door bar. I got the driver's side done and it turned out great. Finally a piece that goes like I planned. :amen:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04872.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04878.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04879.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04880.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04882.jpg


Here are a couple of the front plate for you Pat. If there is a different angle you would like let me know.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04875.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04877.jpg

[Captain Chaos]

Looks great, but being a contortionist is so much more fun at 260#, lol.

[Reeves]

Looking good!

[Rampage16V]

Those parts sure are pretty!! I'd like to do my drivers bar hinged like that!

[rx2mazda]

Amazing what you can get done when you have money! ;) Keep up the good work DJ.

[turboshad]

Those parts sure are pretty!! I'd like to do my drivers bar hinged like that!

Thanks. It's already come in handy for getting the seat in and out. I don't see how you could do that very easily with solid door bars.

I got the last door bar done last night so now it's just finish welding and paint and then on to porting a head and making straps. Once that's done it's just a bunch of easy assembly. I'll even put the O-ring into the oil pump this time. :p


Amazing what you can get done when you have money! ;) Keep up the good work DJ.

LOL, you've got it all wrong. It's what you can get done when you used to have money. I definately don't have any left now. :( I'm also running out of this thing called time. I'm getting a bit nervous but it'll get done. There's not a choice.

I hope you are still attending SDAC even if your car isn't ready. :nod:

[Turbo_Rampage]

The rollcage is looking awesome Dj! nice work!! :thumb: So when do you figure you'll have it running again?

[turboshad]

The rollcage is looking awesome Dj! nice work!! :thumb: So when do you figure you'll have it running again?

Thanks Randy. You will be seeing it at your place in a few days for your dad to work his magic :D My current, what I feel is actually feasible, goal is to turn the key on June 12th. That gives a good week and a half before I leave. Will you be joining me this year?

[Turbo_Rampage]

Thanks Randy. You will be seeing it at your place in a few days for your dad to work his magic :D My current, what I feel is actually feasible, goal is to turn the key on June 12th. That gives a good week and a half before I leave. Will you be joining me this year?

That sounds good! So what HP numbers do you plan on getting this year? ..you porting the head, changing the cams and putting in bigger valves? I dont think my Daytona will be ready by then, :(.

[turboshad]

That sounds good! So what HP numbers do you plan on getting this year? ..you porting the head, changing the cams and putting in bigger valves? I dont think my Daytona will be ready by then, :(.

I would like to start pushing the upper 500s to the wheels this year. Yes I'll be porting a head with 1mm OS valves and BC Stage 4 cams which are a clone of Crane 18s.


Work has been coming along, though slower than I would like. Pretty soon I will be done all the uncontrolled parts that I have to wait on others help for and then I will feel like I'm in the home stretch. The two halves of the cage are welded as are the floor plates. I swear I almost died from the burning undercoating and paint while welding in the floor plates. It was blowing rain into the garage so I couldn't keep the door open and that later turned into what you see below so let's just say it was a tad chilly.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04887.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04892.jpg

Tomorrow or the next I will take the car to Randy's place (Turbo_Rampage) and his dad will be painting the cage for me. Then it's just welding the last two joints and securing it to the floor. I'm really excited to finally have it done. It was waaay more work than I expected it to be. :nod:

I also got the slick screw reliefs machined into my new Rota 15x8 rims. After the thread I started on the subject and seeing someone who kept out of the wall because he had tubes that was enough for me so I will be running tubes again this year. Not to mention I couldn't anything on the net that said tubes made a negative impact on ETs.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04908.jpg

This week I started poring the head. It was machined out for the 1mm oversized valves going with 90% of the valve diameter on the intake and 85% on the exhaust. I won't have time this year to take the time I want on a flow bench so that will have to be a winter project. Right now I will be making my best educated guess on what to change. We'll see how it works. :)

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04910.jpg

Machined seats.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04897.jpg

And the start of the bowls.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04896.jpg


Today was the first day in a long while where we had sun, warmth and I was actually home so I took the oppurtunity to give the car a wash. It's nice to see it clean again, but as you can see in the last pic there is still some work before it is driving. I still think I can have things pretty much done in the next couple weeks.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04909.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04906.jpg

[turbovanman²]

I still think I can have things pretty much done in the next couple weeks.


Of course you can get it done, just don't sleep, :D

Looking good, :hail:

[turbo2point2]

Keep thrashing DJ! Can't wait to see the car SDAC:amen:

[1FastCSX289]

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04906.jpg



I have to give you your props, man. If that was sitting on my garage floor, there is no way I would be thinking about SDAC......much less DRIVING it to SDAC!!!:confused: You are a mad man.....and I mean that in the most "mad respect" kind of way. ;)

Heck, my CSX is pretty much all buttoned up and ready to start tuning but im thinking ill be bringing my P.O.S. Charger to SDAC because I just dont know if the CSX will be ready.

[turboshad]

I have to give you your props, man. If that was sitting on my garage floor, there is no way I would be thinking about SDAC......much less DRIVING it to SDAC!!!:confused: You are a mad man.....and I mean that in the most "mad respect" kind of way. ;)

Heck, my CSX is pretty much all buttoned up and ready to start tuning but im thinking ill be bringing my P.O.S. Charger to SDAC because I just dont know if the CSX will be ready.

LOL, I just have a talent of making stuff seem smaller in my mind. I will have some adjustment to make to the tune with the new head combo but that should be easy. As far as building an engine and leaving the next day, I figure if you did something wrong then you'll probably know after one good heat cylce. From that point on nothing should really change. You should really bring the CSX. Just consider the trip one long tuning session. :D

[1FastCSX289]

I figure if you did something wrong then you'll probably know after one good heat cylce. From that point on nothing should really change. You should really bring the CSX. Just consider the trip one long tuning session. :D


Youre probably right.......but my luck is something special. I might have left a connecting rod bolt loose and it will hold until I am equidistant from both my house and SDAC and just out of the range of AAA towing and then the rod will come flying through the block. :D But, I am hoping to bring it. Im registering the car this week and hope to drive it a bunch before SDAC. As long as everything holds up nice, ill bring it. If I tell myself that im bringing the charger, i wont be disappointed if the CSX doesnt make it though.

[turboshad]

It's been a long weekend with seemingly everything fighting along the way but I was get two major things down with the awsome help of a couple friends.

Friday night the mill finally opened up after a very busy month that obviously wasn't timed around my car. I mean what the hell?!?! Anyway, since they sold our manual mill and I haven't learned how to operate the CNC yet, Kieth, one of our machinists, helped me get the bedplate machined and crank straps made. This was huge since that now allows me to get an aligne hone on Wednesday and have the engine together and possibly in by the end of the week. Thanks a million kieth, this was huge for me. :clap:


http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04924.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04926.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04928.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04931.jpg



Yesterday it finally didn't rain for a weekend and I was able to coordinate with Randy, who is Randy (Turbo_Rampage)'s dad to get the cage painted. He is lightning fast compared to me and we had things pretty much done by 2:00. If you are following you know I made a couple mistakes with the cage bending and had to buy new tube. One piece I was left with was 7ft so I tried hard to get the rear down bars out of that piece. Well that was a huge saving grace, because with them shorter we were able to get the rear half out of the car making painting much easier. If I would have made them longer like planned I would have been SOL. Finally something works in my favour. Huge thanks to Randy for his work yesterday, I can't express how good I think it looks. :clap:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04932.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04936.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04937.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04938.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04940.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04941.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/Roll%20Cage/DSC04944.jpg

[cordes]

Wow, that is some serious progress.

[turbovanman²]

Wow, you really are moving along. All I've got done is pulled my engine and taken the head off, :o




I would like to start pushing the upper 500s to the wheels this year. Yes I'll be porting a head with 1mm OS valves and BC Stage 4 cams which are a clone of Crane 18s.



Do you think that turbo will do 575 whp?

[BF/STOCKER SPIRIT]

WHO THE HELL YOU ARE SOMEKIND OFF MECHANICAL ENGINEER,LOL ,AWESOME
INCREDEBLE, 1st CLASS WORK DJ . JIMMY

[Reeves]

Looking good!!! :nod:

[dodgeshadowchik]

Gawd dang, DJ. You are one crazy dude; but in a good way! The cage looks great. Can't wait to see the car again this year!!

[Austrian Dodge]

looks really good!

[turboshad]

Do you think that turbo will do 575 whp?

The HE351 is suposed to have a 65lb wheel so we'll see. If not then I'm not opposed to a turbo upgrade. Maybe that will turn into next spring's project :evil:


WHO THE HELL YOU ARE SOMEKIND OFF MECHANICAL ENGINEER,LOL ,AWESOME
INCREDEBLE, 1st CLASS WORK DJ . JIMMY

THANKS..................I THINK?!? I HAD TO READ THAT THREE TIMES TO MAKE SURE YOU WEREN'T ANGRY AT ME.



Gawd dang, DJ. You are one crazy dude; but in a good way! The cage looks great. Can't wait to see the car again this year!!

lol, I seem to be getting that alot lately. I'm just thankful I have such an awsome wife that lets me giver like this seemingly every spring. :nod:

[mcsvt]

Pleasantly surprised to see your car on the cover of the SDAC newsletter when I got home today. Can't wait to see your car at SDAC again.

[1FastCSX289]

lol, I seem to be getting that alot lately. I'm just thankful I have such an awsome wife that lets me giver like this seemingly every spring. :nod:

I was actually thinking "there is no way this guy is married". :lol: You DO have an awesome wife. But there is no way you have kids......

[rx2mazda]

DJ and his wife have a beautiful little girl. IIRC they adopted her a few years ago and she's really growing up nice. I got the pleasure of seeing her last year! I didn't get too close because that's "daddy's little girl". All I can say is DJ better get ready because all the guys are gonna want a turn with her here soon(She will be 18 next year)! If she makes it to SDAC this year, I might have to sneak out and see what I can get her to do for me.:eyebrows::evil:

PICS HERE!!!!.............http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39999

:p

[turboshad]

Pleasantly surprised to see your car on the cover of the SDAC newsletter when I got home today. Can't wait to see your car at SDAC again.

Really?!? That's sweet. I'm not an SDAC memeber since there is nothing of a club up here. I only know of 2 members in the province. I wonder if I can order one newsletter.


I was actually thinking "there is no way this guy is married". :lol: You DO have an awesome wife. But there is no way you have kids......

Ya, one awsome wife and no kids..........well apparently I do have one daughter but she loves being in the garage with me. There hasn't been a single day that I have worked on the car and she hasn't been there. I love her to death.....though not as much as my wife....I swear honey. :D


DJ and his wife have a beautiful little girl. IIRC they adopted her a few years ago and she's really growing up nice. I got the pleasure of seeing her last year! I didn't get too close because that's "daddy's little girl". All I can say is DJ better get ready because all the guys are gonna want a turn with her here soon(She will be 18 next year)! If she makes it to SDAC this year, I might have to sneak out and see what I can get her to do for me.:eyebrows::evil:

PICS HERE!!!!.............http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39999

:p

ROFL....that was awsome. But if you want to get with my daughter I'll have to leave it up to her. If she likes you then we'll see. Let me just warn you that she's tough to win over. It seems like every guy she's seen wants to drive her crazy and I'll have none of that.

[Turbo3Iroc]

DJ and his wife have a beautiful little girl. IIRC they adopted her a few years ago and she's really growing up nice. I got the pleasure of seeing her last year! I didn't get too close because that's "daddy's little girl". All I can say is DJ better get ready because all the guys are gonna want a turn with her here soon(She will be 18 next year)! If she makes it to SDAC this year, I might have to sneak out and see what I can get her to do for me.:eyebrows::evil:

PICS HERE!!!!.............http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39999

:p

Nice Carroll but DJ already offered free reign on his car....


LOL, good thing I have a 37hr drive down b/c it doesn't sound like I'll be driving it at all when I get there. :lol:

[turbovanman²]

The HE351 is suposed to have a 65lb wheel so we'll see. If not then I'm not opposed to a turbo upgrade. Maybe that will turn into next spring's project :evil:
:

Interesting.

Any plans maybe hitting our neck of the woods? :nod:




DJ and his wife have a beautiful little girl. IIRC they adopted her a few years ago and she's really growing up nice. I got the pleasure of seeing her last year! I didn't get too close because that's "daddy's little girl". All I can say is DJ better get ready because all the guys are gonna want a turn with her here soon(She will be 18 next year)! If she makes it to SDAC this year, I might have to sneak out and see what I can get her to do for me.

PICS HERE!!!!.............http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=39999


Your evil, :evil: :lol:

[dodgeshadowchik]

lol, I seem to be getting that alot lately. I'm just thankful I have such an awsome wife that lets me giver like this seemingly every spring. :nod:

She definatly is deserving of the "best wife in the world" award! :amen:

rx2mazda: :lol: that was great! soooooo.. does the daughter like other girls? :D LOL

[rx2mazda]

rx2mazda: :lol: that was great! soooooo.. does the daughter like other girls? :D LOL

Apparently she can take two, feel free to come out with us and we can take turns banging her. If you don't mind, i'll just hold onto my "bar" and watch while you take her to the limit. :evil::D

[turboshad]

I made some decent progress this week. I finished porting the head for 1mm OS valves. The engine machining was completed with a big thanks to my friend Jesse at Fast Engines. I wouldn't be driving anywhere this month without his hard work and help in getting things done. :clap: We did an align hone, cylinder rub and valve job and resurface for the head. That allowed me to get the engine almost completely assembled this weekend and it should drop in tomorrow night. :D I was also able to get the 3.50 FD into the tranny. Why does tranny work always take longer than you would expect? Well enough of the chat. Here's some pics.

Align honing the block.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04952.jpg

Jesse re-finishing the cylinders for a fresh surface.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04958.jpg

Valve job.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04960.jpg

Crank installed with straps.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04962.jpg

Intake port.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC_0294.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC_0310.jpg

Exhaust port.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC_0305.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC_0313.jpg

Bowls.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC_0309.jpg

BC springs and Ti retainers.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04972.jpg

All 16 over sized valves installed. :thumb:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04973.jpg

This is a tool I made to install the valve springs. It makes it so you have both hands free to get the keepers in and it works great.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04970.jpg

I am very excited to be driving the car by next weekend. That gives at least 2-3 days to make sure things are OK before heading off to SDAC. :D

[turbovanman²]

Did you install oversize seats or just cut the original ones larger?

Any flow testing?

Trans work always takes longer than you think, :(

Your really hauling, your making us look lazy, :lol:

[Reeves]

Your really hauling, your making us look lazy, :lol:

I now feel very lazy. Thanks a lot DJ :(

:D

[1FastCSX289]

Still watching this thread in complete awe! Do you have a regular 9-5 job too??:confused: Youre making me feel like a complete woose for not bringing my car (on a trailer). :o

Awesome progress man. Cant wait to see it go at SDAC.

[turboshad]

Did you install oversize seats or just cut the original ones larger?

Any flow testing?


Stock seats. As mentioned in the page before, the intake seats were machined out to be 90% of hte valve diameter and the exhaust were left as they were already 85% of the valve diameter. As you can see things are a bit rushed so I wasn't able to get any flow numbers. I did have a bench lined up for free but time just dissapeared. Even without testing anything I have 12hrs into the head. I also don't really care too much right now b/c I plan to do another head properly this winter. This was just to get things going.




I now feel very lazy. Thanks a lot DJ :(

:D

Any time James :thumb:


Still watching this thread in complete awe! Do you have a regular 9-5 job too??:confused: Youre making me feel like a complete woose for not bringing my car (on a trailer). :o

Awesome progress man. Cant wait to see it go at SDAC.

Good, now get that car on a trailer :D This week will be the real crunch week. It will be whatever it takes to be driving by Saturday. It's nice to see the list getting smaller though. :)

[cordes]

Very impressive again. I think I went into the wrong line of work.

[Rampage16V]

Hey DJ if you are driving by Brantford On either way stop by and say hi. or if you need a pit stop...I sadly won't make it to sdac this year ...Give me a call ...Dean 519 209 4588

[turbovanman²]

Stock seats. As mentioned in the page before, the intake seats were machined out to be 90% of hte valve diameter and the exhaust were left as they were already 85% of the valve diameter. As you can see things are a bit rushed so I wasn't able to get any flow numbers. I did have a bench lined up for free but time just dissapeared. Even without testing anything I have 12hrs into the head. I also don't really care too much right now b/c I plan to do another head properly this winter. This was just to get things going.



You really think we are going to go back over and read your 100 page thread? :confused: :lol:

I don't see the need for another head, this one looks like it will do the trick just nicely, :D We all could wish for junk heads like this, :o

[turboshad]

Engine is in :D :D :D Yep, this post is at 12:22AM my time. Good thing I get to sit in a hot boardroom all day tomorrow.....I mean today. Shouldn't have any trouble staying awake. :confused:

[BadAssPerformance]

Congrats! Oh, and its 1:28 :p goodnight man!

[turbovanman²]

Nope, its 11:45pm. :D

[1FastCSX289]

What? Going to bed early without posting pics???;)

[turboshad]

Hey DJ if you are driving by Brantford On either way stop by and say hi. or if you need a pit stop...I sadly won't make it to sdac this year ...Give me a call ...Dean 519 209 4588

Unfortunately I don't think I wil be going that route Dean. It adds close to 4 more hours of driving in some already long days. It's actually too bad the northern hiway is so round about b/c I would also love to stop in to see my relatives in Newmarket. Hmmmm.......maybe I'll think about it some more. I'll let you know. :thumb:



The cage is finally in!! I really have to say it was waaaaay more work than I originally expected. I even had to weld with a mirror for the first time and that is freeking hard!! :confused: A big thanks to one of our welder, Don Grass, for helping me get the tight spots at the roof where the halo meets the main bar. I would have made a royal mess of it on my own. :hail: I'm a little sad I won't have time to touch up the paint before SDAC but whatever. That can always be done later. So if you see my car there, don't look at the joints by the roof. :thumb: Sorry, no pics again, but soon.

[Aries_Turbo]

just bring a brush, some masking tape, and some plastic to sdac and touch it up in the parking lot. :)

brian

[BadAssPerformance]

The cage is finally in!! I really have to say it was waaaaay more work than I originally expected. ..... Sorry, no pics again, but soon.

Awesome, cant wait to see it! No need for pics, just stop by next week ;)

[turboshad]

She runs!!! :D Followed shortly by white exhaust and coolant on the ceiling when the thermostat opened :( :( :( :( :( :( :(


Today is Father's day so I'm taking a break. I think I'll take Tuesday off and pull the head and put the old one back on so I can still make SDAC. Not sure if my problem is in the head or HG. In my haste I didn't get the new head pressure tested so I can't be sure of that. An embarassing newb mistake. :o

[1FastCSX289]

She runs!!! :D Followed shortly by white exhaust and coolant on the ceiling when the thermostat opened :( :( :( :( :( :( :(


Today is Father's day so I'm taking a break. I think I'll take Tuesday off and pull the head and put the old one back on so I can still make SDAC. Not sure if my problem is in the head or HG. In my haste I didn't get the new head pressure tested so I can't be sure of that. An embarassing newb mistake. :o

Crap man. Thats not so good. Hopefully, it was just a fluke head gasket issue. Swapping the head isnt so bad on that car, though. Good luck getting it ready.

[SebringLX]

Aren't you coming through here next weekend on your way to SDAC? Stopping to watch JT @ Pinks right? I really hope to see your car either on your way out or on your way back. Never did get the chance to see it when I was out in MT and much closer to you. :P

[Pat]

Man...the curse of SDAC continues...

Good luck DJ!

[Turbo3Iroc]

Yeah but we know the old head was no slouch. Give it hell DJ!

[BadAssPerformance]

Sorry to hear DJ, good luck and keep me posted on your ETA!

[turboshad]

Pulled the head and it looks like the finish wasn't fine enough. I've blocked it down and am now ready to put it back on. I'll update and post some pictures later. Here's hoping. :thumb:

[BadAssPerformance]

*crosses fingers*

[1FastCSX289]

Pulled the head and it looks like the finish wasn't fine enough. I've blocked it down and am now ready to put it back on. I'll update and post some pictures later. Here's hoping. :thumb:

What finish RA was it decked to? What HG? I hope thats it. Too late for a pressure test?

[turboshad]

She runs!!! Again!!! And it doesn't overheat!!! Well at least not on my test drive!!!


Another long day but I got to drive it for the first time this year :D As I mentioned I pulled the head and found the finish wasn't good enough so I took the long board to it and it seems to have worked. It stayed right at 175 the whole trip this evening, though it has cooled down some. But I think if there were problems I would have seen it on my 15 min trip. I got her into some boost and all I can say is :D :D Already I'm finding the cams very streetable and the boost in the upper RPMs hits like seagul into the window of a speed boat. I'll drive it some more tomorrow but it looks like I will head out Thursday morning and hope for the best. That means I'll miss the Pinks TnT but I'll still make SDAC which is the true purpose of the trip (Sprry JT ) I figure if it's going to break it will happen close enough to home to not really matter. If I can make the first leg to Winnipeg then the rest should be gravy. :thumb:

I have obviously been a bit busy so here are the back logged pics.

As per JT's experience I packed the oil pump nice and good. :thumb:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04974.jpg

Oh, and I also figured I would install this O-ring this time.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04975.jpg

With a little bit of cutting the old windage tray fit in nicely with the new straps.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04978.jpg

I did actually get the control arms done and one to find out that the 1" drop on the king pin made it so the 15" slicks don't fit. :mad: So I will have to make a new king pin which also means they won't be coming with me to SDAC :(

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04979.jpg

Degreeing in the BC stage 4 cams.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04983.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04985.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04987.jpg

This is what I found on the head this morning. I think that is where the problem was. In the head surfacer's defence he may not have been told I was using an MLS gasket. Things have been happening pretty fast and I was just happy with the one day turn around.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04994.jpg

After a bit of sanding.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04995.jpg

And finally the scratches are gone.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04996.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC04997.jpg

Oh, when you go for a test ride, be sure to put your dipstick in :o

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/DSC05001.jpg

And finally a little walk around video when it was warming up on the first start.......Ok it's taking too long to download. I'll post it in the morning.

[turboshad]

Ok it's done...


http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/th_MOV04998.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g103/turboshad/93%20Shadow/2010%20Rebuild/?action=view&current=MOV04998.mp4)

[BadAssPerformance]

She runs!!! Again!!! And it doesn't overheat!!! Well at least not on my test drive!!!

AWESOME! Just logged in to see how you made out!


... I'll drive it some more tomorrow but it looks like I will head out Thursday morning and hope for the best. That means I'll miss the Pinks TnT but I'll still make SDAC which is the true purpose of the trip (Sprry JT ) I figure if it's going to break it will happen close enough to home to not really matter. If I can make the first leg to Winnipeg then the rest should be gravy. :thumb:

No problemo man, I'll have your shirt for you when I see you... are you still coming thru Chicago? We can still find a place for you to crash either here or Dave's pending Pinks and SDAC caravanning schedules...

[turbovanman²]

Great work, looks and sounds awesome. You guys are going to have a blast. :D

Maybe next year I'll make it, :o

[1FastCSX289]

Awesome work man!! Im really glad you got it up and running b/c I cant wait to see it. That car really impresses me....you've got a lot to be proud of there.

[turbokid]

Already I'm finding the cams very streetable and the boost in the upper RPMs hits like seagul into the window of a speed boat.

or a seagull hitting the windshield of an evo?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4gDU8dNV-o

[Reeves]

Already I'm finding the cams very streetable and the boost in the upper RPMs hits like seagul into the window of a speed boat.

VTECH!!!!
Sh*t that's fast!

[BadAssPerformance]

Had a stabilier bar shaped package on my porch when I got home tonight :thumb:

[turboshad]

Nice :D. I'm headed out tomorrow morning. I'm feeling confident out of the gate. We'll see how the day goes. I'll be giving you a call later tomorrow.

[92spiritrt]

Have a safe trip. See you Saturday morning. Have your laptop ready:thumb:

[Mike M]

Can anyone believe DJ had the audacity to drive thru my city, within a 2 minute drive from my house... and did NOT stop to chat?

I am appalled at the happenings of this grim day.

...

Pics to follow... DJ.

[BadAssPerformance]

He's got a long way to go and a short time to get there... he's gonna do what they say can't be done...

[Shadow]

Can anyone believe DJ had the audacity to drive thru my city, within a 2 minute drive from my house... and did NOT stop to chat?

I am appalled at the happenings of this grim day.

...

Pics to follow... DJ.

Don't be too appalled, he's trying not to keep ppl up too late waiting for him. ;)

[contraption22]

He's got a long way to go and a short time to get there... he's gonna do what they say can't be done...

He's south bound, watch that DJ run.

(banjo solo)