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iTurbo
07-05-2009, 12:13 AM
Ever since buying my Shelby Lancer in '99, the power door locks have never worked. What is the most common cause of this? Now that I think of it, I don't think they've ever worked in my Spirit R/Ts either. I've checked the fuses and there seems to be power at the switch on the door. I was thinking new door lock solenoids, but all foor doors being non operative makes me think it might be a main switch or power feed problem. Any ideas?

Also, is it possible to remove the front door lock cylinders and remaster them so they use the same key as the ignition lock cylinder? Is this something I could do or should I just remove all the lock cylinders and bring them to a locksmith?

bakes
07-05-2009, 01:20 AM
Remove the door panel and unplug the lock motor put a test lamp in the circuit see if you have power there , if so un clip the linkage from the latch and see if the motor works if it does lube the hell out of the latch assemble

iTurbo
07-05-2009, 01:36 AM
Cool, I'll give that a try tomorrow.

iTurbo
07-07-2009, 09:56 PM
OK, I'm not getting any voltage at the plug for the door lock solenoid. However, I am getting power at the door lock switch, and I see also see 12v on the output side of the switch when depressing it either way (lock/unlock). So what in the circuit sits between the switch and the solenoid? I am imagine there must be a faulty relay somewhere under the dash or something.

looneytuner
07-08-2009, 09:23 AM
"OK, I'm not getting any voltage at the plug for the door lock solenoid."

Check that wire just before it goes to the door. IE on the body side. Sometimes they crack between the body and door.

JDAWG
07-08-2009, 09:29 AM
iirc all the power for all the doors runs through that door master switch, then to the other door, i could be wrong, on some cars it does

iTurbo
07-08-2009, 09:37 PM
Tried a few things today. First I made sure I was getting power to the switch (BLK, RED) and power out at the switch output (ORG, PNK) when pushing the switch. The switch works fine, but still none of the the door locks work. Fuse and circuit breaker work fine. They are on the same power feed as the power seat which works fine.

Then I used one of my old dominos pizza car topper power cords to test the solenoid. It has the same rubber 2-pin plug as the door lock solenoid and has a rotary switch to quickly turn it on/off. When plugged directly into power thereby bypassing the cars wiring altogether, the solenoid works and has no problem locking/unlocking immediately. Then I plugged the test cord into the other side (door wiring) and all of the power door locks work, but they BARELY work and won't even fully lock/unlock the door.

Anybody know where the main splice junction for all the power door locks is? That would help track down where the circuit is open.

iTurbo
07-12-2009, 11:31 PM
I got them working today. I removed the driver side interior kick panel to start tracing the wires and right away I found that the power door locks had been spliced into at some point, probably for an aftermarket alarm or remote lock system. When they removed it, they didn't hook the normal power door lock circuit back up. Solder the two wires back together and they work good now. The fronts still work great but the rears are slow and take 2-3 tries before they fully lock/unlock. Probably will need some new solenoids back there. I still have to remove the door lock cylinders and take them to a locksmith so they can be matched to my ignition lock too.

blk86trbo
07-13-2009, 01:17 AM
Glad to hear of your success Jeremy...progress is progress! Congrats :thumb:

bakes
07-17-2009, 05:58 PM
I got them working today. I removed the driver side interior kick panel to start tracing the wires and right away I found that the power door locks had been spliced into at some point, probably for an aftermarket alarm or remote lock system. When they removed it, they didn't hook the normal power door lock circuit back up. Solder the two wires back together and they work good now. The fronts still work great but the rears are slow and take 2-3 tries before they fully lock/unlock. Probably will need some new solenoids back there. I still have to remove the door lock cylinders and take them to a locksmith so they can be matched to my ignition lock too.

lube the hell out of the latches the grease inside them has gotten stiff slows them right down