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View Full Version : Any tricks to get flywheel bolts out?



85shelbycharger
12-26-2005, 03:41 PM
Well I'm trying to get my motor together for my Shelby Lancer project, and I'm in the process of taking the torque converter and flywheel off of the donor motor. So far, I got the torque converter off and now I'm struggling to take the flywheel off. I can't seem to break any of the bolts loose. I know that using an airgun will help tremendously, but the motor is in my friend Brandon's garage and he doesn't have an air compressor. So any tips or tricks to get these things loose?

The S is Silent
12-26-2005, 03:44 PM
To get mine off, I get a long piece of flat metal, or even a small diameter metal rod. I use two of the dowel pins on the flywheel and anchor it with the metal rod. If it's in the car, it's easy and you can use the body of the car to help it not move, if you have it out, a second person helps. The other person holds the rod so the flywheel doesn't move, while you use a ratchet with a pipe on the end of it to break the bolts free.

Good luck.

Rampage16V
12-26-2005, 03:46 PM
Electric impact gun!
or pull the pan off and put something into the crank to stop it from turning.

85shelbycharger
12-26-2005, 03:46 PM
Thanks for the quick reply Matt. Yea the motor is out and laying on the floor...so looks like I need to go recruit my brother from wherever he is at right now :p

85shelbycharger
12-26-2005, 03:47 PM
Electric impact gun!
or pull the pan off and put something into the crank to stop it from turning.

I wish I had an impact gun :(
There is still oil in it or else I'd pull the pan. I'm goin to try out Matt's idea. Thanks for the suggestion though :thumb:

Una
12-26-2005, 04:32 PM
When I need to pull a flywheel or flexplate at the junkyard, I use a fairly large set of Vice Grips.. Clamp them down tight on the edge of the flywheel. It'll wedge up against the engine and stop it from turning while you break all the bolts loose.

GLHSKEN
12-26-2005, 04:34 PM
I used to use a coat hanger through the Pressure plate "holes" and the top ear on the block... Twist it down and you should have the crank "anchored" in place. It will move a "bit" but not after you really get torquing.

If the engine is on the ground. you will need someone holding the block..

supercrackerbox
12-26-2005, 04:39 PM
Also since you mentioned there is still oil in it, be carefull not to tip it too far once the flywheel is off or oil will come out the holes on the crank.

inmyshadow
12-26-2005, 05:28 PM
Do you own a drill then? I'm sure you can a socket adapter for a drill. That might give you enough torque to remove the flywheel bolts.




I wish I had an impact gun :(
There is still oil in it or else I'd pull the pan. I'm goin to try out Matt's idea. Thanks for the suggestion though :thumb:

Rampage16V
12-26-2005, 09:44 PM
Hey James My wife has one 91 Shadow ES Turbo auto Convert. So far ported G head s60 turbo 2.5 exhaust and 4 wheel disc brakes. I have the computer socketed but still have the stock cal in it.
It has a lock up converter in it. I have the MAP and injectors for it but they are not yet in.
Also looking for some new rubber for it 205/50/17 if anyone has anything.

85shelbycharger
12-27-2005, 12:04 AM
Thanks everyone for their help! I ended up using Ken's method. All I had was real weak wire, so I had to redo the wire after each time I broke one bolt free haha.

The S is Silent
12-27-2005, 12:07 AM
Thanks everyone for their help! I ended up using Ken's method. All I had was real weak wire, so I had to redo the wire after each time I broke one bolt free haha.

Lol...I like Ken's method too. I read it and then thought..."Dang, he's got a point. That beats the heck out of my method."

I think I'll have to use that one next time I do a flywheel.

GLHS592
12-27-2005, 12:22 AM
I remember using a junk flathead screwdriver to do this.

85shelbycharger
12-27-2005, 12:22 AM
Lol...I like Ken's method too. I read it and then thought..."Dang, he's got a point. That beats the heck out of my method."

I think I'll have to use that one next time I do a flywheel.

Haha, I had full intentions on using your method, but couldn't find anything I'd be able to use in Brandon's garage. Next time hopefully I can find some stronger wire to use and it'll go alot smoother.

The S is Silent
12-27-2005, 12:37 AM
I ran into the same problem. I couldn't figure out how to do it, so I used my breaker bar...it was just small enough in diameter to work.

inmyshadow
12-27-2005, 04:08 AM
Dean, I'm pretty much setup the same way as your wife's car. My car is a factory 5spd car though.

I'm running a 568/LSD, stock swirlport head again, full 2.5in exhaust, socketed computer, +40s, 3bar map, TIII turbo/2.5in swingvalve, TII intercooler radiator,ligthened flywheel, TIII clutch, underdrive, two adjustable cam pulleys, konis/eibachs, spirit r/t rear axle, IROC R/T front swaybar and MP computer currently.

I still have my solid rear disc to install. I also need some stronger pads in the front. Then I'm off to a front mount intercooler and scca roll bar. Then some new suspension bushing all around.


Hey James My wife has one 91 Shadow ES Turbo auto Convert. So far ported G head s60 turbo 2.5 exhaust and 4 wheel disc brakes. I have the computer socketed but still have the stock cal in it.
It has a lock up converter in it. I have the MAP and injectors for it but they are not yet in.
Also looking for some new rubber for it 205/50/17 if anyone has anything.

BadAssPerformance
12-27-2005, 01:51 PM
Did anyone mention to get a flywheel turner tool? They kick ---! I think mine was only $10 or $15 and well worth it!

The S is Silent
12-27-2005, 03:05 PM
Flywheel turner tool? Do you have a pic of one? It sounds handy though.

BadAssPerformance
12-27-2005, 05:15 PM
Although there are a few types out there... mine looks like this one, where the arched section spans around and locks into the teeth of the flywheel/flexplate. It is shown in the 'storage' position' the handle actually swings out to become perpendicular to the arch.

http://shop.com.edgesuite.net/ccimg.catalogcity.com/220000/227900/227917/products/17012436.jpg

Turbodave
12-27-2005, 05:27 PM
I've got the same style flywheel turner as JT, it has worked ok for me a few times, but on some flywheels (my neon comes to mind) it just adds to the frustration. I've chucked mine across the garage a few times after throwing a fit that would probably put the Turrett's guy to shame.

Nothing beats an impact wrench for this job.

BadAssPerformance
12-27-2005, 05:35 PM
I've got the same style flywheel turner as JT, it has worked ok for me a few times, but on some flywheels (my neon comes to mind) it just adds to the frustration. I've chucked mine across the garage a few times after throwing a fit that would probably put the Turrett's guy to shame.

Nothing beats an impact wrench for this job.

lol... when I was looking for the picture I went to the craftsmans site and searched 'flywheel tool' and it came up with a 1/2" impact gun and a couple air compressors... but even if you have an impact gun, its good to tighten all the flywheel & clutch bolts with a torque wrench...

85shelbycharger
12-27-2005, 11:20 PM
but even if you have an impact gun, its good to tighten all the flywheel & clutch bolts with a torque wrench...

That was goin to be my next question but I figure that I'll use the same method to tighten the bolts as I did to loosen them. Then I'll just use my torque wrench to finish them off. Would you happen to know off hand the torque specs for the flywheel bolts for an automatic (don't know if there is a difference between auto and manual)?

Rampage16V
12-28-2005, 10:51 AM
As far as I know 70 ft lbs

85shelbycharger
12-28-2005, 11:28 AM
As far as I know 70 ft lbs

Thanks Dean. Reason I asked that last night was because it was late and I was too tired to look through my manual haha

mo' parts
12-29-2005, 05:09 PM
i guess i still use the cave man method, i have a partially beat up ratchet and a 4 lb. hammer that gets'em loose with a coupl whacks. LOL
i DO like the coathanger method ken, never thought of that.:thumb:

MVaughn
12-30-2005, 11:48 PM
I used to use a coat hanger through the Pressure plate "holes" and the top ear on the block... Twist it down and you should have the crank "anchored" in place. It will move a "bit" but not after you really get torquing.

If the engine is on the ground. you will need someone holding the block..


Scarey. We think alike. Been doing this for ten plus years without any problems.

85shelbycharger
12-31-2005, 12:06 AM
i guess i still use the cave man method, i have a partially beat up ratchet and a 4 lb. hammer that gets'em loose with a coupl whacks. LOL
i DO like the coathanger method ken, never thought of that.:thumb:

Whatever works, works haha. I really like Ken's method though, it worked great :thumb:

GLHSKEN
12-31-2005, 10:48 AM
Scarey. We think alike. Been doing this for ten plus years without any problems.


:eek: :eek: Yep... scarey!!!

BadAssPerformance
12-31-2005, 10:51 AM
LOL... yep.. kinda like the wheel... cool stuff gets invented in different places around the same time :thumb:

GLHSKEN
12-31-2005, 10:58 AM
HILL-JACK engineering