What oil pressure do you run? and what weight of oil?

[Clay]

My 86 GLHT, which I havent driven much at all, and just started driving daily last week, appears to have low oil pressure, by the FACTORY gauge. No warning lights or anything. It just runs around the "L" mark on the factory gauge. When it gets good and hot, at an idle it will be between the 0 and the "L" mark, when cruising its around the L mark all the time. At startup its at right in the middle of the guage.

My other 86 GLHT runs on the H mark all the time, always has.

So this makes me thing either (a) the oil is to thin (its 10W30), (b) the motor is old, which it is, (c) the gauge is just for reference (and is off), or (d) all of the above. ;)

So, what do you run for oil? and what does your factory gauge say?

thanks,
clay

[cordes]

I run Mobil 1 10W30 and have never had a problem. My oil pressure is a little low by most people's standards going off my electric autometer gauge, but it has been like this for thousands of miles with no problems.

I'm willing to bet your stock gauges or wiring is causing a false reading, although I'm sure other factors could be playing a part too.

[Clay]

yeah, I really need to hook up a analog gauge to double check it. Ive got one in the garage, just need to do it!

[minigts]

10w40 Mobil 1 synthetic and mine stays about the middle, although I'm using a factory gauge. I had an issue with the factory gauge bobbing from 3/4 to almost zero, but I feel there was something amiss with either the sender or the plug coming loose. I haven't confirmed the actual pressure with my Autometer gauge because I haven't finished my gauge cluster in the dash. Factory one is working fine for now.

[Clay]

well........... could have found a potential problem, now I just need to find it and fix it.

I went out to check the oil level because I just changed it a Monday night, and it was about a 1/2 quart low. Checked it today and its full. Hmmmmmm

smelled the oil, smells like gas. Darn.

so it looks like Im getting fuel into the oil somehow. Hopefully an injector swap will fix the problem.

[Clay]

I went out to check the fuel rail for pressure and it had plenty! I figured it would have drained itself right away. Guess Im going to have to let the car sit overnight, and check it first thing in the morning.

[SpoolinGLH]

I have always run 10w30 Mobile 1... My GLH on cold startup is 65-70 psi and when its warm its at 25-30 psi..this is off a digital summit gauge...

[turbovanman²]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22030 :lol:

I run 5w40/50 synthetic and it has 75 psi hot or cold at 3000+ rpm, cold its 50 psi at idle, 25 hot, :D

[Clay]

Ok, btt with more info.

I think the gas in the oil issue was miniscule.

Checked compression last weekend, 135 -> 140 across the board.

Tonight I hooked up an oil pressure gauge and watched it for a bit. With the engine stinking hot, at idle, I would get 10 -> 15 psi (15 -> 20 most of the time, but it dropped off after I let the car idle for 15 minutes or so). Know, I know oil pressure requirements for chrysler v8s, and this is with in spec at idle, but what is the requirement for these 4 cylinders at idle?

Lazily driving around after the car was good and hot, oil pressure was 25 -> 30, and of course it would increase as you accelerate. Sound ok?

thanks,
clay

[tryingbe]

17 PSI hot idle.
15W-40

[BadAssPerformance]

I run 10w40 in everything I own

[BadAssPerformance]

I think the gas in the oil issue was miniscule.


Gas in clean oil looks like black soot in the clear goldish oil... and if you have enough, you can smell it

[contraption22]

I think minimium spec is like 4-10 psi at hot idle. and 10psi per 1000 rpm above that.

I think you're fine, Clay.

[turbovanman²]

6 psi is the minimum, then 10 psi per 1000 rpm. It seems most of ours run around 15-20 at idle, hot. Less with 10 or 5w30 I would assume.

[Clay]

ok, so looks like maybe an increase to at least 10w40 would be a good idea next oil change, or maybe 15w40.

good stuff. thanks everyone.

[Darkwolf]

On my 6k mile rebuilt engine with a real mechanical gauge and 10w30 I run 15psi at idle hot plus or minus depending on how hot it is outside.

The factory gauge is worthless. I had three senders in my van before I installed the mechanical gauge and every single one of them read different on the gauge when they were working right.

[bakes]

hot 20psi idle and 60psi at 3k
15w40 MOPAR diesel oil

[Mopar318]

I run regular from the ground 10w30.

These reading according to my autometer gauge.

Cold Idle-70psi
Hot idle-40psi
Hot rev-65psi

My factory gauge will bounce around 0, and the oil light will turn on. Wierd since the autometer give a way different reading. The factory sendors suck IMO

[CSX153]

6 psi is the minimum, then 10 psi per 1000 rpm. It seems most of ours run around 15-20 at idle, hot. Less with 10 or 5w30 I would assume.

so what oil would give you more oil pressure?

[cordes]

so what oil would give you more oil pressure?

A heavier weight oil. A lot of the guys run 10W40 or even 15W40. I was surprised at how many folks at SDAC were running really heavy oils. I'm still using 10W30 in all my cars and have yet to see any trouble as a result. I do run synthetic though.

[Gaboon]

I only drive the thing in the summer and I've always used a synthetic 50w in my car.

I've been using Royal Purple 20-50 for the last few seasons, pressure is 65 psi cold idle and 28 psi hot idle.
50 psi @ 2500 rpm when hot.

[Shadow]

I've never used an A/M oil gauge yet. Only the factory gauge. Oil preasure is 3/4 on the gauge till operating temp......then right at the 1/2 spot. If I were to ever see it drop from the 1/2 at operating temp I would check my rod bearings. 10w30 Mobil 1

[Juggy]

the oil pressure light wont come on until 5psi pressure (pretty positive)

[rusted89omni]

60-65 cold start
3000 rpm hot 45 psi
hot idle is 7-10 psi
5w30 castrol synthetic, two litres of lucas goop. The first time i fired it up, that 7 psi scared the $hit out of me! I suppose thats ok for an tired old engine with 301,000km on it. Anyone ever tried to shim the oil pump relief spring to get more pressure? Not trying to jack your thread.

[rusted89omni]

60-65 cold start
3000 rpm hot 45 psi
hot idle is 7-10 psi
5w30 castrol synthetic, two litres of lucas goop. The first time i fired it up, that 7 psi scared the $hit out of me! I suppose thats ok for an tired old engine with 301,000km on it. Anyone ever tried to shim the oil pump relief spring to get more pressure? Not trying to jack your thread.

[rusted89omni]

Bumpity!

[turbovanman²]

60-65 cold start
3000 rpm hot 45 psi
hot idle is 7-10 psi
5w30 castrol synthetic, two litres of lucas goop. The first time i fired it up, that 7 psi scared the $hit out of me! I suppose thats ok for an tired old engine with 301,000km on it. Anyone ever tried to shim the oil pump relief spring to get more pressure? Not trying to jack your thread.

Shimming the spring will only increase max pressure, it won't affect low rpm or idle oil pressure due to the pump not spinning fast enough. MP has a spring kit for that, I run it and get 75 psi from 2500 and up rpm.

Your pressures are fine for an old engine. 4 or 5+ psi is the spec for idle.

[rusted89omni]

Yeah the idiot light flickers from time to time. Gives me the fear. What pressure is it supposed to come on? Is that normal? I was thinking of swapping pumps with a Pick and Pull special. Are all pumps the same?

[turbovanman²]

Yeah the idiot light flickers from time to time. Gives me the fear. What pressure is it supposed to come on? Is that normal? I was thinking of swapping pumps with a Pick and Pull special. Are all pumps the same?

It comes on at 4 psi, but I need to double check.

Unless your pump is worn out, which is a rare, then changing it out won't make any difference. If your really concerned, drop the pan and remove the pump and take it apart, if the gears and housing are smooth with no signs of major wear, then check your bearings, I bet you'll find worn bearings, if so, put new one's in, reuse the pump with the spring kit and enjoy higher oil pressure.

[rusted89omni]

I had the pump apart already. It measured out within specs. Although there were a couple of small grooves on the circular bit that holds the starfish lookin thingy. Real technical here. How hard is it to swap bearings?

[turbovanman²]

I had the pump apart already. It measured out within specs. Although there were a couple of small grooves on the circular bit that holds the starfish lookin thingy. Real technical here. How hard is it to swap bearings?

Pump sounds fine. Drop the pan, mark the rods and caps so you put back on the right rod, undo the nuts, tap the threads with a brass hammer, remove cap, check bearings for wear, slighlty push piston up to get at the top half, install new shells upper and lower, plastigauge, check clearance-if ok, lube, reassembly, torque, repeat. Mains are bit more complicated-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=56

[Turbozcs2003]

Yeah the idiot light flickers from time to time. Gives me the fear. What pressure is it supposed to come on? Is that normal? I was thinking of swapping pumps with a Pick and Pull special. Are all pumps the same?

sorry see you have a guage
Mine flickered once, I revved it and brought it home. Screwed a mechanical gauge in and had 65 at start up cold and 15 psi hot at idle. Put a new sensor in for the idiot light Installed an autometer guage and monitor, have about 35 PSI hot at 2600 RPM doing 65 with 5w-30 syn.

[rusted89omni]

Ah is the sensor for the idiot light the little one on the stem coming out of the block? Ill have to try swapping it and see. No sense in doing bearings if I dont have to. Thanks for the info Turbovanman it isnt so daunting it seems.