fuel pressure @30 still rich at idle

[663csx-t]

i have a 88 csx-t 2.5 pistons are 20 over (useing 2.2 computer)255 fuel pump 20%injecters(#495)afpr garret turbo all tll 798 head (stock) 2 pice intake 52mm tb i dont under stand way im running rich @ idle can any one help

[bakes]

get a cal made for the +20 , reinstall the stock injectors or run e85

[crazymadbastard]

the 2.5 should run pretty good at stock fp with the +20s. Check your vac lines,electrical conections and cam timing ,the basics. Possible that the one injector is stuck open or leaking too.

[cordes]

For some reason my response the other day never went through.

To cut to the chase, there is no reason to be fooling around with the wrong computer these days. If you can't or don't want to get a vendor cal a couple hours of reading and less than $100 will have you on your way doing them yourself. It's probably cheaper and faster than replacing all the cracked pistons which are virtually inevitable.

[shadow88]

Maybe before going much further, we should define rich.
Narrowband or wideband?
What's the a/f ratio?
Are the plugs fouling?
Black smoke form the tailpipe?
If so, with a cat?

[cordes]

Maybe before going much further, we should define rich.
Narrowband or wideband?
What's the a/f ratio?
Are the plugs fouling?
Black smoke form the tailpipe?
If so, with a cat?

Thanks. I had asked most of that in a much longer paragraph which was lost the other day. I absolutely hat it when that happens.

[663csx-t]

i have a auto meter a/f 2 to 3 bars on the rich sid if i turn the fule pressure up wont it run even richer plugs look a lil black and i dont see any smoke timeing is at 12 i think

[cordes]

Make sure the timing is set properly for both the cam and ignition. Have you tried to pull the codes yet? Have you checked your vac lines to the MAP? Have you verified the FP?

[turbovanman²]

i have a auto meter a/f 2 to 3 bars on the rich sid if i turn the fule pressure up wont it run even richer plugs look a lil black and i dont see any smoke timeing is at 12 i think

Do this to verify the sensor is reading accurately-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=22

You shouldn't be rich using a 2.2 computer with +20's.

Is it rich under load?

[663csx-t]

well i cant put it under too much of a load its a fresh motor(275 miles on it) 3 and 4 rpms its still says rich (this dont have any thing to do with it but i can hear poping sound from the exhaust and feel no pressure for a half a sec)

[cordes]

I recommend beating the snot out of a new motor to seat the rings. Nothing else should need to break in if it was done correctly.

You really don't have any concrete facts about what is going on from what you are communicating in your posts. You really haven't answered any of the questions I, or anyone else has posed. We can't help you if you don't work with us.

[turbovanman²]

I recommend beating the snot out of a new motor to seat the rings. Nothing else should need to break in if it was done correctly.

You really don't have any concrete facts about what is going on from what you are communicating in your posts. You really haven't answered any of the questions I, or anyone else has posed. We can't help you if you don't work with us.

+2 on both statements.

[663csx-t]

Make sure the timing is set properly for both the cam and ignition. Have you tried to pull the codes yet? Have you checked your vac lines to the MAP? Have you verified the FP?

timring is good im getting code 34 and vac lines are all good i hook up a fule gauge i set fp my self im going to set it back to 55psi

[663csx-t]

Maybe before going much further, we should define rich.
Narrowband or wideband?
What's the a/f ratio?
Are the plugs fouling?
Black smoke form the tailpipe?
If so, with a cat?

no black smoke im running 3inch pipe no cat or anything

[663csx-t]

I recommend beating the snot out of a new motor to seat the rings. Nothing else should need to break in if it was done correctly.

You really don't have any concrete facts about what is going on from what you are communicating in your posts. You really haven't answered any of the questions I, or anyone else has posed. We can't help you if you don't work with us.

im trying im still a lil new to the td rings are good and sealed

[cordes]

im trying im still a lil new to the td rings are good and sealed

Don't worry about the code 34. Even if your car is equipped with cruise, the servo being bad won't affect the rest of the car.

If you aren't belching out black smoke, do your plugs look fouled? Can you post up pics of the plugs?

If you live near a place which will pull the codes for you for free, you may be able to look at the o2 volts at idle with the scanner. If you get that value and tell us what it is we can go from there.

Is code 34 the only one you are getting?

I still think the vast majority of your problem comes from running the wrong computer, but it shouldn't be that bad. Although, it doesn't sound like it is to terribly bad for what you are running.

Remember, the +20s will keep it alive up top, but you don't have a way to stop the car from dumping in fuel down low either.

From the sounds of it, you just put in a new motor. It would be a shame to crack all the pistons or worse when you could have avoided it all by spending less than $100 to burn and drop in a chip.

[mario03SRT]

Depending on the ecu, the adaptives out to be able to trim out an additional 20% fuel flow for idle and closed loop.

[663csx-t]

Don't worry about the code 34. Even if your car is equipped with cruise, the servo being bad won't affect the rest of the car.

If you aren't belching out black smoke, do your plugs look fouled? Can you post up pics of the plugs?

If you live near a place which will pull the codes for you for free, you may be able to look at the o2 volts at idle with the scanner. If you get that value and tell us what it is we can go from there.

Is code 34 the only one you are getting?

I still think the vast majority of your problem comes from running the wrong computer, but it shouldn't be that bad. Although, it doesn't sound like it is to terribly bad for what you are running.

Remember, the +20s will keep it alive up top, but you don't have a way to stop the car from dumping in fuel down low either.

From the sounds of it, you just put in a new motor. It would be a shame to crack all the pistons or worse when you could have avoided it all by spending less than $100 to burn and drop in a chip.

code 12 34 and 55 ill try to post a pic of the plugs

[663csx-t]

here are the pics of the plugs (plugs were in the car for maybe 50 miles)15635 its a lil blury

[cordes]

What order are those in? It looks like there is some very uneven distribution of fuel or air going on there. Two of them don't look too bad.

[663csx-t]

from lefrt to right #1 #2#3#4 thats the same order thay were in the car

[cordes]

Were they in the same order for all of those pic? I'm a bit confused by how white they will look in one pic, and then how dark they are in another.

[663csx-t]

yes same order in all pics i rolled them over to show that 1 side is black and the other side is white:confused:

[cordes]

That's interesting. I'm no plug expert, so I will let others chime in from here.

[663csx-t]

ok thanks you reply quick:thumb:

[663csx-t]

what do pepole thank about these plugs on page 1

[turbovanman²]

Its really hard to tell with those pics, too blurry. Can you retake them clearer and keep the plugs all on the same side, IE all white, then all dark?

[Chad T]

If you have a macro focus setting on your camera it will take a better close up pic.

[663csx-t]

here are some better pics plugs have about 50 miles on them

[663csx-t]

any one

[turbovanman²]

They look a tad rich but nothing too extreme.

Have you checked cam timing-

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/vbarticles.php?do=article&articleid=131

What's your idle vacuum?

[663csx-t]

cam is at 12 will check to make sure idle is at 800 900 rpms

[turbovanman²]

cam is at 12 will check to make sure idle is at 800 900 rpms

Cam timing isn't 12, that's ignition timing. You need to check your cam timing per my link.

[663csx-t]

lol true will check it

[dds78910]

How does it idle? If the came timing is off it would run like crap. Maybe the gauge is bad, try another gauge? Is the A/F gauge connected to the right wire from the o2 sensor?

[663csx-t]

Cam timing isn't 12, that's ignition timing. You need to check your cam timing per my link.

i went to re check the timeing and soon as i pull the temp sensor off it runs like crap for 1 sec it stalls out (why would it do that):confused2: i look at the timeing befor it stalled out timeing mark was between the fire wall and 12
any tips to fix this

[663csx-t]

How does it idle? If the came timing is off it would run like crap. Maybe the gauge is bad, try another gauge? Is the A/F gauge connected to the right wire from the o2 sensor?

car idle and runs good gauge is hook up right have not tried another one

[turbovanman²]

i went to re check the timeing and soon as i pull the temp sensor off it runs like crap for 1 sec it stalls out (why would it do that):confused2: i look at the timeing befor it stalled out timeing mark was between the fire wall and 12
any tips to fix this

That's normal sometimes, I would check the cam timing first then try to reset the ignition timing. You might have to float the gas to get it stable.

[663csx-t]

That's normal sometimes, I would check the cam timing first then try to reset the ignition timing. You might have to float the gas to get it stable.

ok i tryed again i tryed to to float the gas and it seem to smoke a little
with floted the gas timeing was more right on but car did not want to stay running at all was hard to keep it to stay running but im also dont under stand how to check the cam