Billet Tensioner

[t3rse]

Could someone please explain this to me....


Next time you have your stock tensioner on the dyno watch the tensioner closely and you will see how inaccurate it is snd why they are on the edge of failure. Tske an AEM EMS car and lock your timing down on a flat number and strobe it with a timing light while reving the engine up and down. You will see it advance and retard the timing up to plus or minus 4 degrees with a stock sprung tensioner which also equals fail.

Um...aren't timing events fired by the tone wheel on the crank, making it impossible for spark to be out of sync with piston location? Cam timing could be off, but I fail to see how ignition timing could wander, unless you were using head mounted hep and distributor, like many of us are...(mine still triggers off crank).

[Big_P]

Well we don't have a crank position sensor, we have the Hall-Effect in the distributor that does the same thing. Somehow I doubt the timing would wander though?



edit: oops, this is the 2.4/2.0 section. Disregard.

[t3rse]

lol...no worries

[cordes]

If what you say is true, I would wonder how it could wander.

[t3rse]

I could be wrong...but I thought the cam angle sensor was only there to check orientation... If I'm right, Darrel stuck his foot down his throat.

[BadAssPerformance]

I could be wrong...but I thought the cam angle sensor was only there to check orientation... If I'm right, Darrel stuck his foot down his throat.

Correct that the cam is only read to sync the firing order with #1 tdc.

Got a link to the thread? It could read that he is saying to strobe the cam gears which would be what is off relative to the ignition?

[cordes]

I could believe that the cam timing relative to ignition could be off due to the tensioner flexing around. I know a stretched timing belt made a huge difference in spool time on my Omni last year.

[t3rse]

thread: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f180/billet-tensioner-questions-help-511141/

I thought the same thing JT, but it just doesn't seem like that is what he said. Think about it. Locking the spark has nothing to do with the cams walking, especially given his "rev the motor" comment. Those are two totally independent events.

Cam timing off with big cams could bend valves, on a stocker...no damage...ignition timing wandering that many degrees will equal a blown motor.

[glhs0426]

I think he means to lock the ignition timing down because you need to strobe the cam timing marks with the ignition timing light to see the cam timing moving.

The billet tensioner DCR and PTP sell sets and locks the belt tension like any 2.2/2.5. Set it and forget it. The stock Litens sourced tensioner this "billet" part is based from has a spring loaded eccentric which allows it to move, changing the cam timing. When setting the stock part you adjust the eccentric until the mark lines up in the window and then tighten the locking bolt. After the adjustment the spring makes adjustments to tension the belt.

The only time I can see the cam timing changing is during rev down. The slack side of the belt becomes the tension side during this event.

[BadAssPerformance]

^^^ that sounds about right :thumb:

[t3rse]

While that makes sense, he articulated that very poorly.

[DodgeZ]

Could someone please explain this to me....



Um...aren't timing events fired by the tone wheel on the crank, making it impossible for spark to be out of sync with piston location? Cam timing could be off, but I fail to see how ignition timing could wander, unless you were using head mounted hep and distributor, like many of us are...(mine still triggers off crank).


I think what is saying is set your timing to 0's on your timing map in the stand alone. Then stick your timing light on the car. You have to put some white paint on the cam gears "lines". When the car is idling you can see both marks at the same point when the light hits. What he is saying is if you rev the car up the lines won't stay together because the cams are bouncing around.

I think I recall this happening to me when I was setting the base timing on the SRT. I didn't rev the H out of it but I do recall the lines floating around some at different RPMs. It has been awhile so I forget and I am prolly crazy. I didn't think about it much at the time.

[t3rse]

mopar ghetto vvt? I timed mine with the tranny so I didn't look.

[DodgeZ]

mopar ghetto vvt? I timed mine with the tranny so I didn't look.

I figured you did. :D

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21539.0;attach=431 5



9) Because the Dodge SRT-4 does not have a timing mark from the factory, a mark should be made to verify the ignition timing.
• Pull the front right side wheel off.
• In the inner fender well, pry the plastic cover off to expose the 19mm crank pulley bolt.
Page 8 of 18
• Manually spin the engine to the cylinder #1 TDC position using a dial indicator or caliper at the number 1 spark plug hole. Note: You can also pull the inspection plug off the upper timing belt cover to line up the cam gear’s TDC etching marks.
• As shown below, line up the two bolts and mark the crank pulley with white paint.
• Reinstall the spark plug, pulley cover, wheel, etc.
• Start the engine. If the vehicle does not start, reference the AEM Pro User Manual. If the problem persists, try the AEM Tech Support Forum www.aempower.com or the AEM Tech Line 1-800-423-0046.
• First set the Ignition Map to zero by going to: Ignition | Ignition Map.
• Highlight the entire table.
Page 9 of 18
• Click “M” for menu and “C” for copy on the keyboard. This copies the entire Ignition Map and stores it on the clipboard.
• Now click “S” for set value.
• Enter “0” and click OK.
• If there are any ignition trims, temporarily zero them out in the Ignition | <<Advanced Ign>> | Ignition Trims section.
• Select the Configure drop down menu, then ECU Setup | Set Ignition.
• Using a timing light, reference the No. 1 coil signal and compare the physical engine timing to the parameter Ignition Timing displayed.
• Use the Advance/Retard buttons to make the timing number match at idle. Note: while using the Advance/Retard buttons in the AEMPro software, the engine’s timing is changing not the Ignition Timing parameter.
• Now rev and hold the engine at high rpm to verify that the values still agree with each other. If not, change the option Pickup Delay Comp in the ignition pull down menu until the numbers match.
Because the ignition timing is non adjustable on these engines, the base map’s Ignition Sync and Pickup Delay Comp should be correct. However, improper ignition timing is the easiest way to destroy an engine so it is always a good idea to verify it before proceeding.
• Go back to the Ignition Map, highlight the table and click “M” for menu.
• Before clicking “P” for paste, make sure that the last copy function was from copying the original ignition map.
• You are now ready to tune the engine.

[JDAWG]

a hep and a crank, cam, whatever sensor all so the same thing. They are magnetic and pick up a spot on something that is spinning. Abs sensors are the same way also.

[t3rse]

and wtf does that have to do with anything?

[JDAWG]

it does cause i said it does

[DodgeZ]

:confused: