what temp should the the mini be at

[Mr overkill]

driving the mini saround and it likes to sit at half then go to 3/4 after harder driving

to me it seems high has brand new hoses belts water pump thermostst and gasket and a newer rad

I figured this should sit at 1/4 to 1/2 max let me know if im worried for nothing

[Bbneon95]

Mine runs at like 1/4 to 1/2 sitting. Then when I drive again and it cools 1/4 on the stock gauge. They are not as reliable as what I trust after however many years. I have a Water temp gauge and when Im driving its like 175-185 then sitting like 200-210. I have a good many mods though so it definitly will be different than stock. As long as you don't go over like half I would't see a problem on that. Running an IC?

[Mr overkill]

shes bone stockk for now

[turbovanman²]

Normal but I would fill up your heater core with CLR and backflush it, that will stop the temp swings. Also install a 180 thermostat for summer, :thumb: Remember to drill the 1/16" bleed hole.

[Mr overkill]

checked the heater core it flowed nicely but still flushed it put in a 180 already but forgot to drill it can that be it ???

[turbovanman²]

checked the heater core it flowed nicely but still flushed it put in a 180 already but forgot to drill it can that be it ???

You should still CLR and back flush it. The hole helps. If its still running 1/2 way, then check the temp using a scanner, the rad could be plugged up.

[Mr overkill]

forgot to mention on highway its at 1/4 and pretty much stays there but when you drive around town is where it gets hot. Gonna pull the rad today and backflush it to be safe i guess

[turbovanman²]

forgot to mention on highway its at 1/4 and pretty much stays there but when you drive around town is where it gets hot. Gonna pull the rad today and backflush it to be safe i guess

That is normal, around town, it takes awhile to build up temp then the fan kicks on to cool it down. You can wire up a manual fan switch so its always on in town or have the cal changed to put the fan on earlier.

[Mr overkill]

ok took out the rad and flushed it also took out the t stat and drilled the hole and flushed the motor while the stat was out



did not inprove things


driving is fine expect the thing goes to 3/4 in town and pretty much stays there unless its avove 2000 say


what are the chances the headgasket isnt sealing 100% and is creaping out some compression

gonna do a chemical test to make sure

[turbovanman²]

ok took out the rad and flushed it also took out the t stat and drilled the hole and flushed the motor while the stat was out



did not inprove things


driving is fine expect the thing goes to 3/4 in town and pretty much stays there unless its avove 2000 say


what are the chances the headgasket isnt sealing 100% and is creaping out some compression

gonna do a chemical test to make sure

See my last post why its running at 3/4 in town.

[Mr overkill]

even at idle just sitting??? guess im gonna have to put in a 2nd temp sensor to turn on the fan at a temp that i want it to

[cordes]

even at idle just sitting??? guess im gonna have to put in a 2nd temp sensor to turn on the fan at a temp that i want it to

What temp is it at right now?

[contraption22]

Before you decide to do any work on your car because you're concerned about what the factory temp guage says, you should put a real temp guage on it, or at the very least hook up a scanner to see what the coolant temp sensor is reading.

[A.J.]

I can't believe your going through all this without ACTUALLY KNOWING what the temperature really is. Without a scan tool reading the computers temp sensor or a mechanical temp gauge your pi$$ing in the wind.

A.J.

[cordes]

Before you decide to do any work on your car because you're concerned about what the factory temp guage says, you should put a real temp guage on it, or at the very least hook up a scanner to see what the coolant temp sensor is reading.


I can't believe your going through all this without ACTUALLY KNOWING what the temperature really is. Without a scan tool reading the computers temp sensor or a mechanical temp gauge your pi$$ing in the wind.

A.J.

I see you guys are taking the direct approach. Nice work. :thumb:

[Mr overkill]

its freaking how if i open the cap (not under pressure ) it will boil out

Gonna hook up my scanner in the morning to get a exact temp

[A.J.]

its freaking how if i open the cap (not under pressure ) it will boil out

Gonna hook up my scanner in the morning to get a exact temp

You didn't state a couple of things. Like how long you've run the engine before you take the cap off. Or if the cap is off when you start the engine. If you start you vehicle up with the radiator cap off and it immediately starts puking out, you've got a blown headgasket.

A.J.

[turbo84voyager]

Like others have said dont trust the gauge. I have had a parts van that ran in this range.threw the engine in another van with the same sending unit and it ran 1/4 to 1/2. All of my other vans run 1/4 to 1/2. These gauges are not accurate. My shadow would just about hit the H mark when the fan would come on. Connected the scan tool and just shy of the H mark was 212.

[Mr overkill]

well hooked up the scanner and this is what i saw


fan comes on at 210 and off at 200 temp at IDLE crept to 218

Did as simon said and bypassed the sensor to run the fans (gave the relay a ground ) and now it goes to 1/4 to a hair above 1/4


WOW i cant belive that its actually setup to run that warm. I ordered a adjustable fan controller and it will be in sat this way i can set it to turn the fan on at 200 and off at 190(since im running a 180 stat)

[A.J.]

218 is not that hot. Most GM's the fan comes on between 220 and 230.

A.J.

[Mr overkill]

yea that was just idle if i drive it it went to 220's

this is what i got http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER%2D16749&N=700+115&autoview=sku

[cordes]

yea that was just idle if i drive it it went to 220's

this is what i got http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER%2D16749&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I haven't done it myself, but you could hook up a switch to ground a wire under the hood to turn on the fan when you want. The temps you are experiencing are normal, and better for mpgs too.

[turbovanman²]

I haven't done it myself, but you could hook up a switch to ground a wire under the hood to turn on the fan when you want. The temps you are experiencing are normal, and better for mpgs too.

+2, I just simply run a toggle switch to the relay ground and turn it on when I want, keeping the factory control. My cal is also adjusted to turn it on at 195, :thumb:

[Mr overkill]

nope didnt help took it for a 45 min drive and at the end of the drive even with the fan running 100% of the time it got to 228-229 put my hand on the upper hose and you felt it "bubbling"

at this point i am at a loss on whats up

[turbovanman²]

nope didnt help took it for a 45 min drive and at the end of the drive even with the fan running 100% of the time it got to 228-229 put my hand on the upper hose and you felt it "bubbling"

at this point i am at a loss on whats up

Sounds like a head gasket issue. Are you sure it has the right waterpump and its turning the right way?

[Mr overkill]

yup i replaced the pump while i had it out to make sure it was the right one the 89 had the style of belt that went around the pulley correct ? not like the 90 which goes over the pulley


at this point i have all new hoses (needed it anyway ) new water pump, thermostat with the hole drilled in it, radiator flushed and making sure it flows and the fan 100% of the time

[A.J.]

Just because you flushed the radiator and you run water through it and appears to flow doesn't mean it's not partially plugged. I got burned on a couple of overheating problems because of that. I sent the radiators out to radiator shops and they said they were good but weren't.

A.J.

[cordes]

yup i replaced the pump while i had it out to make sure it was the right one the 89 had the style of belt that went around the pulley correct ? not like the 90 which goes over the pulley


at this point i have all new hoses (needed it anyway ) new water pump, thermostat with the hole drilled in it, radiator flushed and making sure it flows and the fan 100% of the time

89' was the first year of the common block. The common block pump rotates in the opposite direction of the pre common block water pump. The belt should ride on top of a smooth pulley on the water pump.

Sounds like you many need to make sure which pump you have, as you can get a pre common block pump housing on a newer block and vice versa depending on a couple factors. I hear it's harder to get the old pump on the newer block though...

[BadAssPerformance]

89' was the first year of the common block. The common block pump rotates in the opposite direction of the pre common block water pump. The belt should ride on top of a smooth pulley on the water pump.

Sounds like you many need to make sure which pump you have, as you can get a pre common block pump housing on a newer block and vice versa depending on a couple factors. I hear it's harder to get the old pump on the newer block though...

The pre-CB pump housing will bolt to a CB no problem, you just wont be able to get the oil pan off.

As long as he kept the CB housing he should have the correct pump? I didnt think the pumps and housing were interchangeable, are they?

[Mr overkill]

thats what i thought the common blocks had the smooth pulley

But after looking at my daytona and went to the store the 88 had a totally different pump the 89 is the one i currentyl have with the small bolt pattern water pump pully and the 90 has the big bolt pattern pully

So unless the wrong water pump and the wrong pulley was installed i dont know what to say


with the rad its pretty new cant be over a 1-3 years old

[turbovanman²]

Just because you flushed the radiator and you run water through it and appears to flow doesn't mean it's not partially plugged. I got burned on a couple of overheating problems because of that. I sent the radiators out to radiator shops and they said they were good but weren't.

A.J.

+2, I thought I read you replaced it. I would get a new one, they are cheap and good insurance if you don't know the past history.

[Mr overkill]

i didnt raplace it because the place by me said it was good.

[turbovanman²]

i didnt raplace it because the place by me said it was good.

Is the rad hot or does it have spotty cold area's?

If you lower the level, do the tubes look clear looking thru the filler neck?

I have mine with a condensor in front of it and it runs around 100, with the oil cooler, its now down to 185/190, :nod:

[Mr overkill]

its hot all over and the tubes are spotless used a small mirror to look around inside and was clean

hitting the yard saturday so im gonna look for a clean spare and throw it in and see if it makes a difference also gonna put in a bigger fan hoping that will help

[turbovanman²]

its hot all over and the tubes are spotless used a small mirror to look around inside and was clean

hitting the yard saturday so im gonna look for a clean spare and throw it in and see if it makes a difference also gonna put in a bigger fan hoping that will help

Fan's only help around town, they do nothing on the freeway or shouldn't and if they do, it shows a bad rad or undersized rad.

[Mr overkill]

yup it seems to only run "hot" in town. Yesterday after driving onthe highway for 20 mins i pull to the garage and watch it sit between 1/2- 3/4 (remember the fan is on 100% of the time at this point) i run the garden hose on it for 15 seconds and the temp drops like a brick so either that 4 blade with a joke of a shroud is not enough or that rad is undersize or not flowing as people have said

[cordes]

The pre-CB pump housing will bolt to a CB no problem, you just wont be able to get the oil pan off.

As long as he kept the CB housing he should have the correct pump? I didnt think the pumps and housing were interchangeable, are they?

I believe you are correct in that the pumps are not interchangeable in the different housings.

[Mr overkill]

ok well i took the fan out the daytona which is a full fan with a shroud installed it in the mini which covers the entire radiator well not it runs VERYYYYYYY good took it on the highway and beat on it and it NEVER went past 1/2 and when it got there it stayed there for a moment then dropped down

it cooled so well on the highway that it went less then 1/4

so it much have been not enough fan

[chilort]

CB water pumps (pump itself) will not bolt to a non CB water pump housing. I had a friend tell me a dealership did this to his car once. BS. Someone save this picture for future questions about this topic.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3596/3608976003_3a6367eb0e_o.jpg

Left is CB, right is pre CB.

[Mr overkill]

actually there are 3 pumps 2 of which you have pictured but there is a third that WILL bolt to a commonblock housing it has a small bolt pattern water pump pully as the one above looks like the big one If i get a chance to hit the store i will shoot a pic

[turbovanman²]

actually there are 3 pumps 2 of which you have pictured but there is a third that WILL bolt to a commonblock housing it has a small bolt pattern water pump pully as the one above looks like the big one If i get a chance to hit the store i will shoot a pic

Yep, 90 and newer have a larger flange, 89 is its own beast, smaller flange.

[Mr overkill]

but the 89 and 90 are almost exactly the same same body, same imperller, expect the pully flange and holes I still dont know why they ever did that

[chilort]

Now I'm confused. I thought for sure I had this all worked out.

Will the 90+ pump work on the 89 body?

[turbovanman²]

but the 89 and 90 are almost exactly the same same body, same imperller, expect the pully flange and holes I still dont know why they ever did that


All 89 and up are common block or CB, for some reason, Dodge changed the flange size, maybe for better bearing load equalization???


Now I'm confused. I thought for sure I had this all worked out.

Will the 90+ pump work on the 89 body?

Yes, just get the right pulley.