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mpgmike
05-25-2009, 12:16 PM
I've been working on this thing for about 2.5 years now. It's just about ready to give back. Thought I'd share some shots.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/Nose1.jpg
Shortened grill, prominent IC w/powder coated pentastar, shortened bumper brackets w/modified bumper, relocated hood grill (directly above the air cleaner).

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/RFICHoses.jpg
IC hoses tuck around and up through where the charcoal canister and the battery used to be.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/Engine1.jpg

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/VacBlock1.jpg
Anodized aluminum vacuum block, polished brass fittings and polished stainless steel lines.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/CatchCan3.jpg
PCV catch can...

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/CatchCan4.jpg
...installed with custom PCV system that creates vacuum on the crankcase until the engine hits boost. Then the crankcase is vented.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/Battery1.jpg
Not enough room for a full sized battery.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/3InchExhaust1.jpg
Full 3" 409 stainless exhaust with mandrel bends through the Zee.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/CenterStack1.jpg
Custom brushed stainless center stack with Tach, EGT, and Boost; 2 power outlets, and 5 lighted switches.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/Shifter1.jpg
Cable actuated shifter mounted on a slight angle. You pull it toward yourself instead of straight back. Brushed stainless cover plate to match the center stack.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/ModSwayBar.jpg
Sway bar has lever arm welded to it so when the engine rocks back, it pushes down on the lever arm, which pushes down on the wheels.

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd270/mpgchris/SwayBar2.jpg

The sway bar modification idea isn't my own. I've searched this forum trying to find the person that came up with it, but to no avail. If this is your idea, please post it. I like it and want you to get your due credit.

Many thanks to Chris Wright for valuable parts in the build.

Mike

BadAssPerformance
05-25-2009, 12:22 PM
Damn, how much boost ya running to need to use stainless vacuum lines? :eek:

Warren Stramer invented that sway bar mod :thumb:

butchsuppe
05-25-2009, 02:43 PM
That thing is bada$$, I like it.!!!!!!

jamesmonty
05-25-2009, 03:45 PM
Holy smokes! That's a lot of work. Great job, and prepair for about a million questions about those SS lines. Most people can't figure out silicone ones!

cordes
05-25-2009, 04:27 PM
I like those vac lines. I saw them on Josh's R/T last year and thought they were pretty neat.

Keito
05-25-2009, 06:29 PM
The first person I've seen with the sway bar mod was Warren S.

omni_840
05-25-2009, 08:07 PM
very nice! how about some more pics:)

89csx10
05-25-2009, 09:18 PM
Real cool!

Pat
05-25-2009, 10:22 PM
This is a street car, right? I'd think that the sway bar bracket might make things a bit sketchy for street use. Any throttle movement or shifting in a turn could disrupt the front end.

2.216VTurbo
05-26-2009, 01:10 AM
Looks good, all business ya know:eyebrows: Good to see you back here a little bit too Mike, hows tricks at the R&D lab? Still setting things up?

mpgmike
05-26-2009, 11:29 AM
Damn, how much boost ya running to need to use stainless vacuum lines? :eek:

Warren Stramer invented that sway bar mod :thumb:

Starting out at the factory 12#, then slowly move up from there. I have an Innovate WB that allows me to alter AFR, and a home-made MAP adjust that allows fuel adjustment under boost and open-loop operation. The stainless lines are for the WOW factor.

Thanks for the name.

The rest of the pics are on my other computer. It needs to be sent to the repair shop (aka have my wife look at it). The engine is an early 2.2 TI, the head and 2-piece intake are ported with all my best stuff, the exhaust manifold is a TU cast iron header, the turbo is a TII piece with the 0.63 A/R scroll and 3" SV, large can WG modified to be adjustable, powder coated just about everything, painted underhod while everything was out, converted to B-100 van master cylinder (with front-rear split), rebuilt axles, strut tower bar, and a bunch of stuff I've forgotten by now.

Mike

ikknown
06-02-2009, 11:06 PM
i guess ill be the first to ask about the stainless steel vaccum lines. Where can i find the parts needed to do this?

mpgmike
06-04-2009, 10:20 AM
The anodized aluminum vacuum block is a popular item available through many sources. The brass fittings are available through Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. I purchased these from McMaster-Carr, which is where I purchased the stainless lines. I have a cheap Harbor Freight buffer that I put the brass & stainless on to give it that glitz. A tubing bender is a definate must-have to get clean bends that look right.

Mike

Nemesismachine
06-04-2009, 04:01 PM
Holy cow, that looks good. Looks almost like a union worker did the lines...

Mike, I'll trade you PC help for your tow dolly ;)

ikknown
06-04-2009, 07:42 PM
did you flare the ends of the stainless lines like a brake line? If you did which flare did you use single flare double flare?

mpgmike
06-04-2009, 08:38 PM
I used a single flare with the flare nut style brass fittings.

My tow dolly is there for you to use, but I use it myself entirely too much to part with it permanently.

Mike

dds78910
06-04-2009, 08:45 PM
The Vac lines are sweet!

Boltthrower
06-05-2009, 12:05 PM
hey, that car looks familiar!

Boltthrower
06-05-2009, 12:20 PM
This is a street car, right? I'd think that the sway bar bracket might make things a bit sketchy for street use. Any throttle movement or shifting in a turn could disrupt the front end.

its supposed to be. it was originally just gonna be a used t2 swap from what was left of my 88 shelby z and make it my daily beater. as you can tell hes gone above and beyond its original goal!:thumb: i just cant wait to drive the thing! i might have to take it down the 1/4 and see what she'll do!

mpgmike
06-05-2009, 06:43 PM
i just cant wait to drive the thing! i might have to take it down the 1/4 and see what she'll do!

Please do. I'll have numbers from the accelerometer for you, but that just isn't the same.

Mike

mpgmike
07-07-2009, 08:51 PM
Had it running today. Fixed a couple minor bugs, but Gawd does it run rich. It's 10.6:1 at idle. I didn't think FFV injectors made that much difference, even with the Walbro 225. I'm going to install an adjustable FPR and see if I can't bring it down.

Mike

"Top Fuel" Bender
07-07-2009, 11:03 PM
Had it running today. Fixed a couple minor bugs, but Gawd does it run rich. It's 10.6:1 at idle. I didn't think FFV injectors made that much difference, even with the Walbro 225. I'm going to install an adjustable FPR and see if I can't bring it down.

Mike

bringing it down to Carlisle :eyebrows:

mpgmike
07-08-2009, 05:00 PM
Doesn't look like it. Had to pull the tranny. Kurt said it worked well when he parked the donor car, but it was making a hellish noise on the lift in neutral. Dropped it out and popped the top and found one of the synchros chewed up and sloppy. Just tossing in another 520 I have laying around. Pulled the FPR to install an Accufab. Got the adjustable in and it leaks at the O-ring. This was the piece I was using to mock up the adapters for TU. I probably goofed up the O-ring then. Have to pop it out and replace the O-ring. That is NOT easy to get to with a 2-piece intake and all the stainless lines I ran.

After that's all back together, it has to go to the alignment shop before I can even take it out to start tuning it. Ain't gonna happen by Carlisle. However, it will be together for our August 22 meet!

Mike

zin
07-08-2009, 06:13 PM
Looks very nice! Those are 3/16" lines used on the vacuum block, right? If so, its the same stuff used to plumb Fogger style nitrous systems. As such you can get distribution blocks in a wide variety of sizes and configurations, though most will have holes on both sides so you'll likely need to block off the ones you don't use with Allen plugs; the compression fittings are common too and you can normally buy a tube bender from the same place, just in case anyone is in a fix to find this stuff.

I'm curious to hear how well the anti-roll bar trick works, seems like a solid theory. Has anyone had success running it at the strip? I can see how it might be a bit spooky on the street, but if it works well at the strip, I'm sure we could figure out a disconnect for the street...

Mike

mpgmike
07-13-2009, 10:42 AM
Warren Staemer (sp?) was the first. He claimed about a 1/2 second reduction in 60' times.

I discovered the disc sent was the wrong one for the 520 tranny and this was the source of serious noise. While at Carlisle I exchanged it for the proper one. TU's clutch guy was very good with the exchange. I called ahead and he made sure he had one there for me.

Mike