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show-off
04-24-2006, 10:10 AM
What else can be done to firm up my CSXT handling? I have the Eibach's & Konis with CS Spindles & brakes. We are going to mobe the K-frame forward to gain more caster, but this is also what I am thinking.

Bigger Sway Bar (where can I get one?)
Strut tower bar (Best option here?)
Is there a rear Shock tower brace?
Is there anyway to stiffen up the back end for cornering
What bushings should be replaced?

Any other suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.

Speedeuphoria
04-24-2006, 10:37 AM
get all the poly bushings from polybushings.com
they have a rear swaybar and larger front swaybars also

Frank
04-24-2006, 11:39 AM
Here is my honest opinion after having modified these cars and messed with the bolt on sway bars.

Rear sway bar should not be bolt on. Your best option is to cut out the old bar and weld in a new solid bar. I have messed around with a 1" bar and want larger. I would recommend a 1 1/16" bar. If you are brave, maybe a 1 1/8" bar.

There is no need for a rear strut brace because the lateral flexing is per the panhard rod setup. I highly recommend Chris Still's adjustable panhard rod to both align the rear wheels with the body when lowering the car from factory, and to keep from flexing the rear suspension. If you autocross with a stock rod, or even hammer it on back roads, you will bend and twist the stock rod permanently. So replacing this is a must. For the increased regidity, I recommend you box the mounts that hold the panhard rod to the body. This will ensure maximum rigidity.
http://www.csracer.com/panhard.html

Besides new trailing arm bushings, the trailing arm to rear axle needs to be beefed up. Even with these mods, there is still too much lateral flexing between the tires to the frame. Some sort of bracing is needed there, and would probably happer a bolt on sway bar anyway.

For the front, you best bet besides new bushings all around, is to integrate a Camber/Caster plate with a swaybar setup. Chris Still was successful in doing this. In addition, depending on how much you lower the car, you may want to put a taller ball joint in to achieve proper control arm geometry. This is key for when in a corner to achieve maximum camber when you are loading down the outside of the car relative to the turn.
http://www.csracer.com/engine.jpg

Once all of that is done, then mess with different front sway bars to achieve the balance you want.


Frank

Rattlesnake
04-24-2006, 12:25 PM
In my case I want the back end to come around me, by doing this you decrease understeer and increase oversteer. So in order to acheive that you need to stiffen you rear like frank says. If you put a bigger front swaybar you will make understeer worse.

This is what I did to cure my understeer.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/491000-491999/491208_127_full.jpg

show-off
04-24-2006, 12:36 PM
If my car is more of a 1/4" car...what can be done to help keep the front end to the ground with all the power I will be putting down?

Something like the SRT4 guys have the Track bars?

Frank
04-24-2006, 01:13 PM
Then bushings all around and then play with springs and bound/rebound rates on your shocks/struts. You wont need much else. You will need a stiff and non lower rear (typically use airbags for height) with full stiff Konis. For the front, full soft, nicely lowered, and not too stiff of spring.


As for other tricks, I am not that familiar.


Frank

Kulgii
04-24-2006, 03:54 PM
In my case I want the back end to come around me, by doing this you decrease understeer and increase oversteer. So in order to acheive that you need to stiffen you rear like frank says. If you put a bigger front swaybar you will make understeer worse.

This is what I did to cure my understeer.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/491000-491999/491208_127_full.jpg


you made that out steel pipe? Cool I might try that.

Rattlesnake
04-24-2006, 04:46 PM
you made that out steel pipe? Cool I might try that.
Yes I did. Be carefull, it makes the car very drifty.:nod: