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J&H Ryan
05-19-2009, 02:42 PM
As recieved:
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/Daytona%20CS/DSC04102.jpg

I'll use this thread to update (and motivate) this project. I want to start out with a question - what is your opinion on the beltline stripe. See the difference between these two cars:

http://media.motortopia.com/files/678/vehicle/4863cf70db548/DSCN1878.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn148/xjken99/100_0074.jpg
(pictures used under the assumption that the owners would be ok with them reposted for this purpose)

Which looks better - painted or not? I think it looks better painted (with the added bonus of me not having to mask and pinstripe), and will likely leave it silver, with the option of adding the black and red, but wanted to hear thoughts.

glhs142
05-19-2009, 02:54 PM
I prefer stock unpainted, break up the color a little bit.

banger68
05-19-2009, 03:08 PM
I prefer the painted. Have you thought about doing the pinstripe blue on a silver car? Or are you changinging the colour to red?

Mine is a black car so it's all black already. It's going all gloss black (incl the trim) and keeping the gold accents. I was supposed to paint it this spring, but job troubles have mine on hold.

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/2/4196/2141/22988570017_large.jpg

BIGBRUDDA
05-19-2009, 03:12 PM
The window trim on a Coupe is a whole different animal.:nod:
The T-top beltline hides a bunch of nastiness.:confused:You could 2 tone them to mimic the coupe though.

Darkapollo
05-19-2009, 05:22 PM
SWEET NEW WALL PAPERS! The silver imho should have had black where the red is.. better accent color.

tommyturbo
05-19-2009, 06:03 PM
I always thought that on the turbo z, t-top mirrors looked better than hardtop mirrors. I love the silver 86 c/s very nice. Want to sell it? LOL. I say keep things stock.

J&H Ryan
05-19-2009, 06:31 PM
I prefer the painted. Have you thought about doing the pinstripe blue on a silver car? Or are you changinging the colour to red?

I was going to do the stripe and CS badges (tail ones as well I suppose) in a bright blue, even before your post I swear. I'm sticking with Silver with the car, despite the fact that metallic is harder to spray. I'm leaving the fascias on the car when painting so all the flakes fall at the same angle and doesn't look like the bumpers are a different color. This saves me some time, but the pita factor with getting the side sections of the wing off make up for it.


The window trim on a Coupe is a whole different animal.:nod:
The T-top beltline hides a bunch of nastiness.:confused:You could 2 tone them to mimic the coupe though.

Maybe I used the wrong term, I mean the plastic trim that wraps around the car that is black with a red stripe in it.

Where I'm at today:
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/Daytona%20CS/DSC04179.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/Daytona%20CS/DSC04177.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/Daytona%20CS/DSC04175.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/Daytona%20CS/DSC04176.jpg

edit: I'm not sure how large photobucket is going to make this, but notice it says C/S Handling package and then "Shelby" on the next line. I thought C/S was Competition Series, nothing to do with Shelby for 86. It is the factory sticker, unless the dealer was allowed to (incorrectly) modify it.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/Daytona%20CS/Untitled-2.jpg

BIGBRUDDA
05-20-2009, 07:00 AM
AHH !!!the nastiness revealed!!!:wow1: As pristine as that car looks. I might just refresh the stock scheme. :hail:at this age those beltline strips become fragile. careful with them. they usually break at the mounting tabs.:banghead:
I have a trick for repair if you need it:thumb:

J&H Ryan
05-20-2009, 07:42 AM
AHH !!!the nastiness revealed!!!:wow1: As pristine as that car looks. I might just refresh the stock scheme. :hail:at this age those beltline strips become fragile. careful with them. they usually break at the mounting tabs.:banghead:
I have a trick for repair if you need it:thumb:
Lol, yeah, it looks like a sawsall was the main tool in this conversion. Everything is still sharp.

Whats this repair of which you speak? The tabs fell off as I was taking the screws out, didnt get to move them even. Was going to order new ones from Martin K.

JohnnyIroc
05-20-2009, 08:53 AM
this car is going to be sweet!
well it already is

WickedShelby88
05-20-2009, 11:03 AM
Wow your brave taking those hockey strips off. I think blue in the belt line would look pretty good. Man 20 and 24 for mpg even with an auto. Those are pretty good numbers. I think my 86 Turbo Z that I had had in high school average about 18, but it was pretty hilly on the road I had to take to work. Looks like your moving right along!

banger68
05-21-2009, 11:26 AM
I was going to do the stripe and CS badges (tail ones as well I suppose) in a bright blue, even before your post I swear. I'm sticking with Silver with the car.

I think it would look sharp with the blue and silver. You are definately giving me the itch with this thread. I'm staying black & gold but maybe a brighter/deeper gold.



edit: I'm not sure how large photobucket is going to make this, but notice it says C/S Handling package and then "Shelby" on the next line. I thought C/S was Competition Series, nothing to do with Shelby for 86. It is the factory sticker, unless the dealer was allowed to (incorrectly) modify it.


In 86 the C/S stood for Shelby. I have my window sticker too and the dealer brochure. The 88+ stood for Competition Series I guess because there was already a Shelby version. This has been debated several times over the years. 86 was the only year the C/S was on a fully optioned car not the stripped down versions of 88+.

banger68
05-26-2009, 08:30 PM
http://www.dempseybowling.com/sheldodg/sheldodd.htm

A link you might find interesting.

banger68
05-26-2009, 08:30 PM
http://www.dempseybowling.com/sheldodg/sheldodd.htm

A link you might find interesting.

J&H Ryan
05-27-2009, 10:28 PM
http://www.dempseybowling.com/sheldodg/sheldodd.htm

A link you might find interesting.
Excellent - and yes, very good breakdown. Those swaybars do make a big difference when it comes to fun in the twisties.

Spraynlog
06-14-2009, 03:41 PM
I was looking at one of these cars yesterday, for sale for $1100, with a bunch of extra parts. It had a 2.2 T1 log intake motor with a 5 speed. 148K on the clock. The color was black, with no A/C.:yuck: It would be a sweatbox for sure!

The 'hockey stick' door trim on the passenger side was broken.....how hard is that to find? The window scrapers on both doors (the rubber piece on the outside bottom of the side window) were trash. Can they be replaced with new? Where would I find stuff like that? The driver's seat was pretty bad too, I guess a seatcover would deal with that.

What would you guys offer for the car? Is $1100 fair? (spare motor and a CSX intercooler thrown in)

chilort
06-14-2009, 04:08 PM
I bought mine on ebag for more than double the 1100 asking price. Of course, the economy wasn't in the tank at the time.

There are a number of non-stock options out there for window felts including some from JC Whitney and some from a GM f-body (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33106)

I didn't know the C/S stood for Shelby at all. I was always told it was competition sport. Very interesting.

Looking good on the work. Nice to see one that isn't red.

I'd also like to know the fix for the broken tabs as I broke several of mine installing new window felts.

J&H Ryan
06-14-2009, 05:24 PM
This is curtesy of BIGBRUDDA in a PM he sent me so thank him:


Get either 18 guage steel or aluminum angle.(avail at home depot)
3/4x3/4x 40
At an HVAC supply get contact cement for foam rubber insulation( RUBATEX or ARMSTRONG) comes in a 1/2 pint can, about $7 {looks like Gorilla snot}Follow instructions on can, don't breath the vapors.
Trim the angle to fit behind the broken tabs. then glue the whole piece in.Drill the angle for #8 sm screw, at the old tab location. It's stronger than before.
Be sure to align your windows before replacing the inner door panel.I like to repad the felt slippers on the glass too.The window should seal inside the rubber lip. if you pour water on the top it should drain from each end of the top glass. On to the door glass about 3/4in from the top edge.
Patience man ,T-tops are like owning thoroubred finicky but way cool on sunny days.

Somethin I just remembered. That push tab fastener at the front of the trim. It's only good Once,and I've never found a glue that held another in place.
I broke down and drilled the trim,(#8sheet metal screw) and countersunk the hole. Then put an insert(LOWES) in the door hole.
The reason being, that trim will vibrate and eventually crack&brake. Even highway speed wind will do it. A carwash would be suicide.
Good luck (mah t-top brutha)!

As far as the hockey sticks if you dont want to use the method above (as I will try) Martin at Arizona parts has them. The has the sweeps as well, for a non-t-top car, which can be very easily modified with a hacksaw to work. Basically, the T-top cars just had an approx. 1x1" section removed.

As far as price, I paid $2500 for this example, it is rust free, has every option (unfortunately that includes the auto, but a 525 would have had to be swapped out eventually anyway), the interior is good with the exception of the drivers bolster. Was it a great deal? No, not really, but I wanted a good solid platform for a resto instead of having to spend time on rust and other worn out pieces. It runs and drives nice, could use a motor mount and has a miss, and the A/C is inop, though the PO said it did work a year ago, so possibly just a slow leak.

Hoping to paint it this week!

Spraynlog
06-14-2009, 10:58 PM
Here's the sale add: I thought the pics would copy, but they didn't!:o

'86 Dodge Daytona Turbo-Z C/S Shelby Edition - $1100 (Vancouver/Salmon Creek)
Reply to: sale-99fcy-1217554852@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]
Date: 2009-06-11, 10:34PM PDT


'86 Daytona Turbo-Z 5-speed. This is the rare C/S edition, which stands for"Carroll Shelby". It's a special edition that had heavy duty brakes, sway bars and suspension components as well as lighter weight than regular models.
It was bought as a project to build with my son as his first car, but he's not taking the time to put into it, so it's up for sale.

Car is in pretty good shape overall. Body is solid, no rust, just a few door dings. Has T-tops with the original bags to store the roof panels. It runs and drives, but since it's been sitting in the garage, the brakes have stopped working correctly.

It's being sold as a project car. Has new battery, new shocks and struts, fresh tune-up, power windows, power locks, power seat, black leather interior, cruise control, Shelby "crab" style wheels, new Grant GT steering wheel..........has a custom made front air dam as well.

Car also comes with a lot of extra parts, including an extra '88 turbo engine with 80k miles on it, including both manifolds and turbo......and also comes with a spare automatic transaxle as well.

Asking $1,100 OBO........willing to deal.

Any questions, fel free to ask, I'll answer to the best of my knowledge.

Rusty
360-601-2994
rustyntiffany@comcast.net

* Location: Vancouver/Salmon Creek
* it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

image 1217554852-0 image 1217554852-1
image 1217554852-2 image 1217554852-3
PostingID: 1217554852

* Copyright © 2009 craigslist, inc.

BIGBRUDDA
06-15-2009, 07:16 AM
Sound s like it needs some work. check the floor pan . T-tops are the worst rusters(roof leakage) they get it inside and out.
Don't tangle with a T-top unless you've restocked on patience.:love: And really enjoy the "Don Johnson" affect.:hail:

J&H Ryan
06-24-2009, 11:49 AM
Its not looking good for SDAC. Might be bringing a stock SRT4 instead. The week has been way too hot and humid to shoot color. If it was a solid color I could work with it (color sand) but the metallic is a spray and hope for the best type of deal. The two holes for the rear pentastar are getting filled so I can use my CS emblem (blue accents will match) as I it didn't come with a pentastar. I debated on filling the front one, but it will remain. Here are some new pics:

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00010-20090622-1154.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00012-20090622-1641.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00013-20090622-1641.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00014-20090622-1641.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00015-20090622-1641.jpg

spoolinhard
06-24-2009, 12:32 PM
Are you shooting the bumpers with the same primer your shooting the whole body?

J&H Ryan
06-24-2009, 12:37 PM
Are you shooting the bumpers with the same primer your shooting the whole body?
yup. its epoxy.

MNmopar
06-24-2009, 01:13 PM
You're not going to take the moldings and plastic off before you paint it?

That's a nice looking car, and with all the work you're putting into it, you should paint it right. :)

Don't rush to get it to sdac and regret it later.

spoolinhard
06-24-2009, 01:27 PM
yup. its epoxy.

Are you adding any flex agent to the bumpers?

J&H Ryan
06-24-2009, 01:41 PM
You're not going to take the moldings and plastic off before you paint it?

That's a nice looking car, and with all the work you're putting into it, you should paint it right. :)

Don't rush to get it to sdac and regret it later.
I'm not taking the upper T-top trim off, but the doors and fender trim is off. Same with marker lights, headlight surrounds, hood grille, ect.

If I wanted to paint it right, I wouldn't be doing it myself ;)

This car is mostly a practice run for painting my GTC. A little harder since its metallic, but thats ok.


Are you adding any flex agent to the bumpers?
What usually happens is that if I'm hit, the damage requires repainting the bumper anyway, but yes, it will be added.

All and all, I'm more concerned with the windshield being replaced than some aspects of the paint job. Its cracked and nobody I've called will either replace the trim or the glass is not available...

spoolinhard
06-24-2009, 02:01 PM
It makes a difference. you will find out.

shelbymopar89
06-24-2009, 04:17 PM
The has the sweeps as well, for a non-t-top car, which can be very easily modified with a hacksaw to work. Basically, the T-top cars just had an approx. 1x1" section removed.



Car is looking good but I wanted to help you out on this part mentioned above. The full frame door sweeps are not too long, they are too short
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal5.jpg
The T-top one is on the top and the full door one is on the bottom.
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal6.jpg
The one end is the same the other end needs to be cut to allow for the rubber block that is screwed in as an end cap to the open end of the door.
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal.jpg
I ended up buying 3 full door sweeps and splicing a small one right behind the mirror. I cut the at a 45 angle so it would be harder to see. It is hidden very well behind the mirror and you have to open the door and look from the inside out to see it. By moving the full door sweep back about two inches I had to relocate all the felt rub strips which were no problem, then drill new mounting holes.
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal2.jpg
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal3.jpg
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal4.jpg
All in all it turned out very well and you would have to look hard to figure it out. I also sell NOS T-top seals if you need some.
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/dsc00349.jpg

J&H Ryan
07-01-2009, 03:20 PM
Shelbymopar89:

Well shoot. I guess I'll have to do something similar. May see if I have enough undamaged section on what I have to get the last couple inches behind the mirror. I may end up redoing the T-tops seals, but for the meantime they are in good condition and do not leak.

$280 for a new windshield, installed, but they sound like they know what they're doing. Ouch.

J&H Ryan
07-15-2009, 11:59 PM
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/IMG00040-20090709-1443.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/IMG00041-20090709-1444.jpg

Pics with color. The clear is done too - about 6 coats, though I expect to sand 1-2 off. I'll post pics of the clear after I wetsand.

blk86trbo
07-16-2009, 09:41 AM
Looks spectacular, I'd be very happy to have done a job that nice!

turbokid
07-17-2009, 12:13 AM
wow nice car. If you need parts let me know my stupid ttop c/s daytona is getting parted soon

J&H Ryan
07-23-2009, 09:12 PM
Looks spectacular, I'd be very happy to have done a job that nice!
Got some imperfections in the clear (those pics are just color, no clear yet) but it should sand out ok.



wow nice car. If you need parts let me know my stupid ttop c/s daytona is getting parted soon

Thanks - I might be interested in the t-top trim and some seals depending on what they destroy when the put the new windshield in.

turbokid
07-29-2009, 12:28 AM
Ok sounds good let me know :thumb:

glhturbo1985
07-29-2009, 07:46 AM
I like the thread.
I hope to start a similiar one when I start working on my 84 Turbo Z.
I keep switching my mind whether I just want to have a nice looking driver, or something else such as a drag car.

clocktowersniper
07-29-2009, 10:11 PM
Whoot! You have a goldmine with those T-Top parts! Those have been NS1 for A LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time!
I am gonna give you some advice though. The T Top Daytona is known for being the hardest windshield install out there. I have done many in my day and they are tough due to all the custom trim. Be careful with that trim as it was brittle when new and i'm sure now that its old its worse. We used to get over $1k to do a windshield install on those back in the day.
Make sure if you do replace it, get someone good and not Safelite.

j4278h
07-29-2009, 10:56 PM
Clocktowersniper speaks the truth.

I had my windshield done by a local place for $260 and was not standing directly over the ------- and regret it everyday. They destroyed every single trim piece on the car and when I confronted the owner of the shop about it. I got a nice reply of "Oh well its a t-top car you supposed to assume all the trim will be destroyed and buy new"

Thanks ------- had I known you were going to break parts I would have left the cracked windshield in there.

86redturboz
08-18-2009, 08:04 PM
The car is coming along nicely :thumb: Some great work! I'll be referencing this when I decide to redo my seals (mine is the red t-top in the first post you used for comparison). Can't wait to see it when it's done :)

shelbymopar89
08-18-2009, 08:49 PM
The car is coming along nicely :thumb: Some great work! I'll be referencing this when I decide to redo my seals (mine is the red t-top in the first post you used for comparison). Can't wait to see it when it's done :)

If any of you guys have questions on how to do anything feel free to hit me up. So far I have done around 10 cars for people, as far as installing door seals and T-top seals.

banger68
08-18-2009, 10:02 PM
Looking good. Can't wait to see the blue on it too.

I've started mine aswell
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41157
I didn't have the nerve to try it myself though.

JohnnyIroc
08-18-2009, 11:45 PM
man the car looks awesome i cant wait to see it back together

tommyturbo
08-19-2009, 01:18 PM
If any of you guys have questions on how to do anything feel free to hit me up. So far I have done around 10 cars for people, as far as installing door seals and T-top seals.

Where are you located? I've got a 88 Shelby Z with t-tops that I am hoping to remove the trim on, get the car and trim painted, and reinstall it. I've got all new glass, seals, felts etc for the car. Have the chrysler service books, including a supplement for t-top cars and planned on doing it with the help of my friend who is a mechanic...but neither of us have done this before.

JeremyL
08-19-2009, 02:13 PM
Car is looking good but I wanted to help you out on this part mentioned above. The full frame door sweeps are not too long, they are too short
http://www.shelbymopar.com/gallerybuilder/galleries/T-Top%20Pictures/window%20seal5.jpg

I've heard this dozens of times, but when I ordered my replacement pieces in late 2006 from the dealer there was no different in length between the ones off my car and the ones I received. The only difference was the notch on one end.

http://www.jeremylawson.com/86Daytona/trim.jpg

One side came from the Dallas warehouse, and the other from one up north. Supposedly I got the last one available on one side, but who knows.

shelbymopar89
08-19-2009, 09:19 PM
Where are you located? I've got a 88 Shelby Z with t-tops that I am hoping to remove the trim on, get the car and trim painted, and reinstall it. I've got all new glass, seals, felts etc for the car. Have the chrysler service books, including a supplement for t-top cars and planned on doing it with the help of my friend who is a mechanic...but neither of us have done this before.
Jacksnville FL. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions and I will do my best to help. It is not that hard of a job, just tricky. Big thing is to go slow, if something does not seem right it prob is not, there are a lot of hidden screws under gobs of sealent!

I've heard this dozens of times, but when I ordered my replacement pieces in late 2006 from the dealer there was no different in length between the ones off my car and the ones I received. The only difference was the notch on one end.

http://www.jeremylawson.com/86Daytona/trim.jpg

One side came from the Dallas warehouse, and the other from one up north. Supposedly I got the last one available on one side, but who knows.

Thats interesting. The ones you have are sure enough the same lenght. The ones in my pic are different, dont have the part number anymore but it was a full frame window sweep. Maybe there are a couple different production runs out there???

J&H Ryan
09-17-2009, 09:42 PM
Huh...I'll have to match mine up now. I never did actually. Heres some pics. I put on way too much clear, got some fisheyes, and I don't have the sanity to make it perfect. Its time for painting the black trim and figuring out why the brakes went out, fix a miss, and DRIVE HER! (thats the point at least, though I'll likely be selling her to pay for the lebarons bodywork that I wont be doing...)

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00192-20090914-2057.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00193-20090914-2058.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00194-20090914-2058.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv359/boogts2/IMG00195-20090914-2058.jpg

edit: now that I see them up, those pics really suck. O well, I'll get some better ones when I progress s'more.

I really played with the idea of painting the T-top surround and headlight trim, beltline, ect... a dark metallic gray, but I think with at least the T-top trim, that has been done on an '89 already?

banger68
09-18-2009, 09:09 AM
I really played with the idea of painting the T-top surround and headlight trim, beltline, ect... a dark metallic gray, but I think with at least the T-top trim, that has been done on an '89 already?

Only the hardtop cars. The trim on the t-top cars were black

J&H Ryan
09-18-2009, 09:38 AM
Only the hardtop cars. The trim on the t-top cars were black
I didn't know that they did gray trim even on the hardtop cars. I was referring to someone doing it when they re-painted their car. Many have not made the t-top trim a separate color, but I thought one guy with a silver 89 had painted his trim gray and didn't want to copy his idea.

J&H Ryan
10-09-2009, 01:13 PM
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/IMG00243-20091008-1448.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/IMG00244-20091008-1454.jpg

Its progress... I got the aluminum to beef up the hockey sticks and will be painting the black band around the car next.

J&H Ryan
10-13-2009, 12:23 PM
Hockey sticks - cracking plastic tabs replaced by epoxied aluminum. I haven't attached them to the car yet, but it seems like its going to work great. Also, the standard weatherstripping is the perfect length, just needs a square cut out of it:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07793.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07794.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07795.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07798.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07801.jpg

Abkshelby
10-13-2009, 03:19 PM
I wish I could have found this one near me.
I have been forever looking for a '85 or '86 turbo Z with an automatic.
I keep finding and buying 5 speed ones.
Great restoration so far!

SilverShelby
10-13-2009, 04:16 PM
The trim scrapper rubber was cut to fit on the t-top car,there is a piece of plactic that over lapped at the back.
if your car is not a t-top don't worry about it
and is it ia just take a pair of sheet metal snips and cut it
good luck that is a sweet looking 86
M.M.

Mario
10-13-2009, 04:54 PM
Making progress there. I think it's going to come out great.

J&H Ryan
10-15-2009, 11:19 AM
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC05842.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC05843.jpg

Put her maskera on (black accent around headlights) and put in new glass headlights with xenon headlights on lows.

J&H Ryan
10-17-2009, 09:28 AM
Decided that it was time to retire the stock speakers:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07852.jpg

New Door handle trim!:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07853.jpg

I need more of these: (I figure they're on ebay, but if you have a giant box of them, I could use a dozen or so)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07855.jpg

LED lights - though I'm going to end up putting in brighter SMD ones:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07866.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07862.jpg

This whole 34 degree weather is putting a damper on my fun time in the garage...

JohnnyIroc
10-17-2009, 01:01 PM
looks like your doing real good!

glhturbo1985
10-17-2009, 11:04 PM
Looks good. Watching this progress makes me wish I could find/make the time to restore my 84 Z soon. There's no tellilng when that'll be able to happen. 4/5 years.

J&H Ryan
10-20-2009, 03:22 PM
A HUGE thank you to tommyturbo for the t-top trim replacement/adjustment supplement. If anyone would like a copy, I see hes made a thread about it in this section, or you can PM me your e-mail address and I'll fwd you what he sent me. Thanks again Tommy!!!

J&H Ryan
11-29-2009, 12:19 PM
Bleed your brakes if you don't know when the last time they were, lol:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/2009-11-28183655.jpg

J&H Ryan
12-21-2009, 12:39 AM
License plate light was literally melting its socket and seal, so came up with this as a solution:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06212.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06213.jpg

J&H Ryan
01-05-2010, 08:08 PM
Just need a little more warm weather!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06251.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06256.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06269.jpg

blk86trbo
01-05-2010, 08:17 PM
Looks great, good job! Could you point me towards where I can purchase the blue pinstriping? That's exactly what I would like to do with my white Z that has the blue interior.

J&H Ryan
01-08-2010, 02:10 AM
Looks great, good job! Could you point me towards where I can purchase the blue pinstriping? That's exactly what I would like to do with my white Z that has the blue interior.

http://www.stripeman.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Graphics&Category_Code=Pin-Stripe+Rolls

What I did was use the 2245 in Olympic blue. You can use just the 1/8" portion, while discarding the 1/16" line.

I bought 150' of it, so if you're not doing it right away, I can send you 40' of it or however much you need when I'm sure I have enough for my car.

blk86trbo
01-08-2010, 08:31 AM
http://www.stripeman.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Graphics&Category_Code=Pin-Stripe+Rolls

What I did was use the 2245 in Olympic blue. You can use just the 1/8" portion, while discarding the 1/16" line.

I bought 150' of it, so if you're not doing it right away, I can send you 40' of it or however much you need when I'm sure I have enough for my car.

OK thanks a lot, that would be great :thumb: I won't be in the position to apply it until the weather warms up, so I'll contact you again at a later date. Much obliged! :)

DC Turismo
01-08-2010, 02:52 PM
That blue pinstripe looks AWESOME!!! Nice choice :D

BadAssPerformance
01-08-2010, 04:06 PM
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06269.jpg

Looking good Ryan! :clap: Smurf Blue CSX stripe FTW!!! :thumb:

J&H Ryan
06-10-2010, 11:21 PM
OK, its 95% done. Now I just have to fix the timing after I put on a new belt:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07025.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07026.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC06853.jpg

"Custom" Turbo Z decal in blue by Dave Lucida (1986LaserXT)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/DSC07207.jpg

Onto the next project...:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y160/BooGTS/GTC1-1.jpg

TopDollar69
06-11-2010, 10:52 AM
I usually don''t like black wheels, but they look really good on your car.

shelbymonster
06-11-2010, 12:54 PM
awesome car dude , great job ! make me want to hurry to work on my 87