how to go distributorless?

[TurboII]

I was wondering how you guys are doing it? i seen a few here that have it already and want to know how. I would really like to do this setup to steer away from the HEI on the distributor. Not saying their bad but i've rather not have issues like i did before that i had ever now and then!


Joey

[contraption22]

Use TIII or Neon electronics, or go with aftermarket engine management.

[bakes]

Try an Msd

[TurboII]

what about firing order?

[TurboII]

Use TIII or Neon electronics, or go with aftermarket engine management.

and what year neon?

[turbovanman²]

As Mike said. If you want to run coil packs, someone made a box to convert the HEP signals.

BTW, HEI is a GM term for there coil in cap setup, :thumb:

[TurboII]

As Mike said. If you want to run coil packs, someone made a box to convert the HEP signals.

BTW, HEI is a GM term for there coil in cap setup, :thumb:

okay you got my attention can you explain?

[contraption22]

Well you need something to tell the computer the position of the camshaft. Then you would need to have a custom cal made to accept this unless you were lucky enough to mount it in the exact location for the ignition timing you want. Then you have to wire up the coil back, get new ignition wires, etc.

In the end you'll have something that may or may not work as well as having a distributor.

I can see the advantage of DIS if you have fully programmable engine management system, but otherwise, i don't really see the advantage of it.

[TurboII]

Well you need something to tell the computer the position of the camshaft. Then you would need to have a custom cal made to accept this unless you were lucky enough to mount it in the exact location for the ignition timing you want. Then you have to wire up the coil back, get new ignition wires, etc.

In the end you'll have something that may or may not work as well as having a distributor.

I can see the advantage of DIS if you have fully programmable engine management system, but otherwise, i don't really see the advantage of it.

i hate these HEI. and i do have a cal so that shouldnt be a problem

[cordes]

i hate these HEI. and i do have a cal so that shouldnt be a problem

If you think you hate our dist with the hall effect pickups in it, wait until you try to get rid of it.

[turbovanman²]

okay you got my attention can you explain?

Its over on TD, I'll see what info I can dig up but you still have to run the HEP setup.

[risen]

I've toyed with the idea of modifying a cal to do something like this while still using the HEP in our cars. The ECU already knows which cylinder is firing due to the 2 pickups in the hep, the window in 1 of the blades, and the fact that the intermediate shaft spins at the same speed as the cam. The ecu wouldn't know to pull timing for a specific cylinder if it didn't know which one just fired. Of course, if your intermediate shaft and distributor aren't both setup properly, it's not going to work. Only thing that's really needed is to find a way to signal which coilpack should be fired, and wire it up appropriately. You could probably still even use the current coil +/- you just need to find a way to switch the connection to the coil - between the 2 coil packs.

Anyone else thought about doing something like that?

[BadAssPerformance]

Why distributorless? It adds almost no performance to offset the cost/work...

[snoman]

Its over on TD, I'll see what info I can dig up but you still have to run the HEP setup.

I have 2 of these magic boxes ordered,
they plug into the hep signal to fire a neon coil pack, I want to rid myself of the cap because it interferes with my monstrosity of an intake.

The guys is swamped right now, so many people want them. As of a couple weeks ago he had them assembled and was bench testing them for function. (he already has a dozen or so running in the real world)

I'll let you know when I get them how they work, or go over there~~~~~~>
and search for it.

[risen]

Why distributorless? It adds almost no performance to offset the cost/work...

Compared to a properly functioning distributor setup, there's no benefit. Although, I wonder if anyone has tested to see what sorts of effects taking the plug gap from .035 to .025 or .020 has. That's what almost everyone does once they hit the wall and start having to deal with spark blow-out. LS2 coils or a good coilpack would save people from having to do that. Heck, the factory blue oval EDIS coilpack on the omni is good @ 20psi with cold arse plugs, and that thing was never intended to deal with a boosted engine.

I don't think it'll be that hard to do using 1 spare output (like the EGR solenoid) to switch which coil gets grounded, a little code in the ECU, and a minimal amount of electronics. It would probably be less code than the mods for the staging limiter or the anti-lag. I think you might be over-estimating the amount of work needed. Or, maybe I'm way under-estimating it.

[1FastCSX289]

The ecu wouldn't know to pull timing for a specific cylinder if it didn't know which one just fired.


I've wondered about how that is done. Learn something new everyday. :thumb:

[WickedShelby88]

Well since a cap and rotor setup can be effected by moisture I can see where this could beneficial, however the same or similar problems can occur with bad plug wires as well. At least this would remove one less equation from the woes of a daily driver. Has anyone seen this? http://my.att.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=372867&ck=

[R/Tony]

Best option for me was megasquirt:

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb275/RTTONY/DSC00898.jpg

:eyebrows:

[turbovanman²]

Why distributorless? It adds almost no performance to offset the cost/work...

For me, it would have been easier to do this then move my distributor, as the intake was in the way. Now, Its moved so I don't really care. Some like DIS, It does have higher, more consistant plug voltages.


Compared to a properly functioning distributor setup, there's no benefit. Although, I wonder if anyone has tested to see what sorts of effects taking the plug gap from .035 to .025 or .020 has. That's what almost everyone does once they hit the wall and start having to deal with spark blow-out. LS2 coils or a good coilpack would save people from having to do that. Heck, the factory blue oval EDIS coilpack on the omni is good @ 20psi with cold arse plugs, and that thing was never intended to deal with a boosted engine.

I don't think it'll be that hard to do using 1 spare output (like the EGR solenoid) to switch which coil gets grounded, a little code in the ECU, and a minimal amount of electronics. It would probably be less code than the mods for the staging limiter or the anti-lag. I think you might be over-estimating the amount of work needed. Or, maybe I'm way under-estimating it.


I honestly haven't heard of too many people blowing out the spark with a stock setup.


Well since a cap and rotor setup can be effected by moisture I can see where this could beneficial, however the same or similar problems can occur with bad plug wires as well. At least this would remove one less equation from the woes of a daily driver. Has anyone seen this? http://my.att.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=372867&ck=


That's neat, another option for engine controls, :thumb:

[BadAssPerformance]

...At least this would remove one less equation from the woes of a daily driver.

WTF!? There is no benefit to swapping to DIS on a well maintained daily driver... a wet distributor? a flaky hall effect? you'll limp home. A bad coil pack? good luck.

[cordes]

WTF!? There is no benefit to swapping to DIS on a well maintained daily driver... a wet distributor? a flaky hall effect? you'll limp home. A bad coil pack? good luck.

Well put. How did a few hundred thousand cars do so well with the stock setup anyway. ;)

[risen]

Well put. How did a few hundred thousand cars do so well with the stock setup anyway. ;)

I don't know if I'd agree that a distributor is more reliable overall, since there are more points of failure than a coilpack setup. Dead coil wire, bad rotor, tab between rotor and coil input breaks off, dead coil; all will result in a dead car. With a coilpack or COP setup you don't have any mechanical parts in the high-voltage part of the ignition, just wiring and a coil.



I honestly haven't heard of too many people blowing out the spark with a stock setup.

I should have termed it differently since, technically, not sparking is different from spark being blown out. And I should have been a bit more clear about the situations in which it happens (since it's not at the stock boost levels). How about this: why does everyone shrink their plug gap down when they start getting above 15 psi? It's because the stock system can't cause a spark. My CSX would miss a spark pretty regularly with the stock coil at 20psi with the plugs at .035, magnacores, new rotor and cap. My datalogging would pick up the lean spike with the wideband and the reduction in the rate of rpm gain, so I knew there was air and fuel not getting lit off properly. Even with a brand new msd blaster2 coil and all that stuff it would drop spark every now and again up around 5k. It took a 6al-2 to fix it, and it hasn't done it all last summer and yet this year.

The omni, on the other hand, doesn't ever drop a spark and it's running a factory Ford EDIS setup (coil pack, wires, module, VR sensor, and trigger wheel) on megasquirt.

[minigts]

WTF!? There is no benefit to swapping to DIS on a well maintained daily driver... a wet distributor? a flaky hall effect? you'll limp home. A bad coil pack? good luck.

I've had my car for over 18 years and never had either. My ex-girlfriend had an Audi for about 6 months and went through 3 coil packs on a 2003/4 A4. There is ZERO advantage to them, other than needing a AAA membership. Granted, with our cars that should be standard. :p

[turbovanman²]

I don't know if I'd agree that a distributor is more reliable overall, since there are more points of failure than a coilpack setup. Dead coil wire, bad rotor, tab between rotor and coil input breaks off, dead coil; all will result in a dead car. With a coilpack or COP setup you don't have any mechanical parts in the high-voltage part of the ignition, just wiring and a coil.


I should have termed it differently since, technically, not sparking is different from spark being blown out. And I should have been a bit more clear about the situations in which it happens (since it's not at the stock boost levels). How about this: why does everyone shrink their plug gap down when they start getting above 15 psi? It's because the stock system can't cause a spark. My CSX would miss a spark pretty regularly with the stock coil at 20psi with the plugs at .035, magnacores, new rotor and cap. My datalogging would pick up the lean spike with the wideband and the reduction in the rate of rpm gain, so I knew there was air and fuel not getting lit off properly. Even with a brand new msd blaster2 coil and all that stuff it would drop spark every now and again up around 5k. It took a 6al-2 to fix it, and it hasn't done it all last summer and yet this year.

The omni, on the other hand, doesn't ever drop a spark and it's running a factory Ford EDIS setup (coil pack, wires, module, VR sensor, and trigger wheel) on megasquirt.

True.

I am running an Aurora coil setup so my plug gap is .030", even at 27 psi, :wow1: :thumb:

[WickedShelby88]

WTF!? There is no benefit to swapping to DIS on a well maintained daily driver... a wet distributor? a flaky hall effect? you'll limp home. A bad coil pack? good luck.

Why FAST why crank trigger.. Why 2.4 lol.. Its all the same. I was just saying it takes a few extra points of failure out of the equation. I did not say it was more reliable. Guess you haven't had a car not start because of moisture in the cap in a while. Me either, but less moving parts and points of failure not to mention a stronger spark and many more options on how to fire said spark and timing adjustment do tend to give the DIS a few performance benefits. We weren't talking about a DD here that I know of?

[BadAssPerformance]

Why FAST why crank trigger.. Why 2.4 lol.. Its all the same. I was just saying it takes a few extra points of failure out of the equation. I did not say it was more reliable. Guess you haven't had a car not start because of moisture in the cap in a while. Me either, but less moving parts and points of failure not to mention a stronger spark and many more options on how to fire said spark and timing adjustment do tend to give the DIS a few performance benefits. We weren't talking about a DD here that I know of?

Seriously? Its not all the same! I did not do FAST, a 2.4L, etc. because I wanted to get away from a distributor! In fact I had to upgrade the FAST box to do that and get an eDist and add a cam sensor... all extra stuff to go wrong.

Yes, you did say it was more reliable! (ok you said beneficial from problems :rolleyes:) and you just stated why you think it is more reliable. And you mentiond a dd in your post I quoted! :confused2:

[risen]

I've had my car for over 18 years and never had either. My ex-girlfriend had an Audi for about 6 months and went through 3 coil packs on a 2003/4 A4. There is ZERO advantage to them, other than needing a AAA membership. Granted, with our cars that should be standard. :p

Ok now, let's not base anything on the reliability of an Audi. Audis and VW's are total *sh1t*. My coworker had a 07 or 08 passat that died on him 3x in 1 year. And the car had less than 50k miles. It was bought brand new, always dealer maintained, and still was nothing but a headache. They've got to be the least reliable cars on the road.

[WickedShelby88]

Seriously? Its not all the same! I did not do FAST, a 2.4L, etc. because I wanted to get away from a distributor! In fact I had to upgrade the FAST box to do that and get an eDist and add a cam sensor... all extra stuff to go wrong.

Yes, you did say it was more reliable! (ok you said beneficial from problems :rolleyes:) and you just stated why you think it is more reliable. And you mentiond a dd in your post I quoted! :confused2:

I meant to go back and change that, but you beat me to it, lol. Well you did it because of the potential for more power right though? You gotta admit though it does give you more control of timing and spark. I still don't know why you felt the need to bash me based on a general statement of removing moving parts from the equation as somehow being a false sense of improved reliability.
But TM to TM the coil pack simply removes one less piece of the puzzle like I said. It "could" benefit, but only in less parts to replace. A modified TIII Cal/SBEC might not be a bad idea. You would have to get the crank trigger figured out and most likely drill a precision hole in the bell, but not too much trouble compared to some other options. I know hybrids don't make sense to some, but distributorless is definitely a nice option for running one.

[Garffus]

WTF!? There is no benefit to swapping to DIS on a well maintained daily driver... a wet distributor? a flaky hall effect? you'll limp home. A bad coil pack? good luck.

:lol: LOL, I like my typewriter, it works, whats the problem, these stupid electronic personal typewriter computer things are utter waste and they crash, my typewriter jams sometimes, but i unjam it and carry on, PC? poncy crsdp, uh' where's the corrwfefction fluid, ahh done it again, look you've got me in suh c a rage now and i cnt find my cprrection fluid.

progress shhmmmogress

[WickedShelby88]

Points FTW!

[Garffus]

Steam ftw!

[cordes]

:lol: LOL, I like my typewriter, it works, whats the problem, these stupid electronic personal typewriter computer things are utter waste and they crash, my typewriter jams sometimes, but i unjam it and carry on, PC? poncy crsdp, uh' where's the corrwfefction fluid, ahh done it again, look you've got me in suh c a rage now and i cnt find my cprrection fluid.

progress shhmmmogress

There's a pretty clear advantage to modern computers. I'm still waiting for evidence that going to a distributorless system would be of any help regardless of one's goals. Even for as bad as everyone says the HEPs are, I've only had to replace one on all the cars I have owned and worked on in the past 7 or so years.

I don't disagree with the fact that modern fuel injection is better than what we have on our cars, but we can do almost anything the other guys are doing with after market stuff for cheaper. As H. Ross once said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[WickedShelby88]

Choo choo. :thumb:

[minigts]

:lol: LOL, I like my typewriter, it works, whats the problem, these stupid electronic personal typewriter computer things are utter waste and they crash, my typewriter jams sometimes, but i unjam it and carry on, PC? poncy crsdp, uh' where's the corrwfefction fluid, ahh done it again, look you've got me in suh c a rage now and i cnt find my cprrection fluid.

progress shhmmmogress

Last time I checked, my car was no where NEAR antiquated as a type writer. Terrible comparison. If my car were 75 years old and I was arguing my old car technology did the same as todays, sure. But this isn't the case.

So did you buy wratchetable wrenches when they came out and throw away your old box end wrenches? It's the same tool, just new and improved, right? Think not.


There's a pretty clear advantage to modern computers. I'm still waiting for evidence that going to a distributorless system would be of any help regardless of one's goals. Even for as bad as everyone says the HEPs are, I've only had to replace one on all the cars I have owned and worked on in the past 7 or so years.

I don't disagree with the fact that modern fuel injection is better than what we have on our cars, but we can do almost anything the other guys are doing with after market stuff for cheaper. As H. Ross once said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

There will ALWAYS be some advantage to new versus the old, but it doesn't mean the old is less reliable, less productive and give any reason to replace it. I'm with you Cordes. And I have NEVER had any part of my distributor go out, ever. I have had my COIL go out twice in the last year, but it's mounted to the head, which is probably the problem. That or it's made in China. :D Before that, I drove my car for 15 years and the coil never failed.

[WickedShelby88]

The trade offs unfortunately with new versus old especially now is that it is getting harder and harder for the average person to modify anything without some expensive controller or going stand alone. The beauty of these cars is the fact that virtually everything has been figured out including the engine control. Back in the 80's when fuel injection was new it took a lot of people a while to get used to it. Heck some people still hate FI.

[Garffus]

LMAO

http://z.about.com/d/inventors/1/0/V/K/bicycleposter.gif

thats how i roll, i mean, thats how Josh rolls




There's a pretty clear advantage to modern computers. I'm still waiting for evidence that going to a distributorless system would be of any help regardless of one's goals. Even for as bad as everyone says the HEPs are, I've only had to replace one on all the cars I have owned and worked on in the past 7 or so years.

I don't disagree with the fact that modern fuel injection is better than what we have on our cars, but we can do almost anything the other guys are doing with after market stuff for cheaper. As H. Ross once said, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I don't disagree with any comments, just found them funny in a kind of, you won't tell me kind of way, 30 years man and boy.. Our cars were crazy computerized electronic space age type things in many peoples eyes when they came out, now they are the ones that are becoming outdated. Im quite sure DIS are standard in most new cars from a cost perspective, but, really, they are (or are becoming) the way to go. That’s not saying you should change a perfectly good working setup for DIS, but if i were doing an engine build, id certainly be heading that route. 20 years ago id say 75% of people would swear by carburettors as opposed to electronic injection, probably the complete opposite now..

[Garffus]

rubbish im too slow at replying and there's more.. Im just having a laugh guys

[t3rse]

chevy guys still swear by carbs...I have a standalone and run a distributor...would I go COP if I could easily and cheap? yup...do I really care? nope.

[pauly_no_van]

Best option for me was megasquirt:

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb275/RTTONY/DSC00898.jpg

:eyebrows:

holy bling-age batman!

[Garffus]

Last time I checked, my car was no where NEAR antiquated as a type writer. Terrible comparison. If my car were 75 years old and I was arguing my old car technology did the same as todays, sure. But this isn't the case.

So did you buy wratchetable wrenches when they came out and throw away your old box end wrenches? It's the same tool, just new and improved, right? Think not.





uhh! aww that hurt, well firstly, my post was entirely sarcastic and 2nd, i compared non-electronic spark with electronic spark, so id say a type writer and a PC are a pretty GOOD comparison, actually, .... so nerr **tongue sticking out smiley**

T3rse, you always hit the nail on the head!

[turbovanman²]

The trade offs unfortunately with new versus old especially now is that it is getting harder and harder for the average person to modify anything without some expensive controller or going stand alone. The beauty of these cars is the fact that virtually everything has been figured out including the engine control. Back in the 80's when fuel injection was new it took a lot of people a while to get used to it. Heck some people still hate FI.

I agree. Our cars were ahead of the times and I believe still are. Our fuel injection systems are bar none some of the best on the market. MOST imports etc have to have complicated wiring or standalone's installed which gut all your options. Us, buy a $175 Ostrich, spend some time learning and you have a factory standalone setup.


chevy guys still swear by carbs...I have a standalone and run a distributor...would I go COP if I could easily and cheap? yup...do I really care? nope.

Exactly even though there are no fuel injection setups which are plug and play, require NO tuning and learn on their own, way cool.

I would love COP but for me, its just not needed at this point, but who's to stop you or anyone from running it, and if they do, who cares?

[minigts]

uhh! aww that hurt, well firstly, my post was entirely sarcastic and 2nd, i compared non-electronic spark with electronic spark, so id say a type writer and a PC are a pretty GOOD comparison, actually, .... so nerr **tongue sticking out smiley**

T3rse, you always hit the nail on the head!

Darn it, sorry man. Thought you were serious. :p Still disagree with the comparison though. :D

[BadAssPerformance]

Well you did it because of the potential for more power right though? You gotta admit though it does give you more control of timing and spark. I still don't know why you felt the need to bash me based on a general statement of removing moving parts from the equation as somehow being a false sense of improved reliability.

No, I ONLY went to coil packs because I could not easily use the FM/FAST distributor I had on the 2.2L with the 2.4L. I wish I could have, I would have saved a few hundred dollars!

Nothing against you, but rather your idea that switching to DIS is somehow better than a distributor. Sure, you remove a rotating part, but you add a bunch of wiring. You of all people should know how extra wiring can cause issues.

[t3rse]

Nothing against you, but rather your idea that switching to DIS is somehow better than a distributor. Sure, you remove a rotating part, but you add a bunch of wiring. You of all people should know how extra wiring can cause issues.

not if you do it correctly..wire nuts and crimp connects will eventually leave you stranded...proper solder joints with proper insulation will last long enough

[turboshad]

Besides the fact that I am 2.4 and MSed there are good points to distributorless IMHO. I used to care about puddles and washing my engine, not anymore. Less moving and wearing parts. I have issues; is it my coil?, is it my HEP?, is my cap or rotor worn? did my dist move and my timing is off?. Now I only have 3 things to suspect if I have ignition issues, not 8. BadAss said if the coil goes then your stranded. The same applies to a distributer since there is still a coil in the equation. I never have to wonder if my int. shaft jumped a tooth or if my timing is out becuase it is always in. And I love making any timing adjustment I want though that is more of a MS thing and can also be done with a distributor if you run a standalone or something similar. Any system that is hacked in will hack you back, distributorless or non so that is an invalid argument. Done properly either system will treat you well. Anyway, everyone has there opinion and that's just my 2 cents.

DJ

[minigts]

Besides the fact that I am 2.4 and MSed there are good points to distributorless IMHO. I used to care about puddles and washing my engine, not anymore. Less moving and wearing parts. I have issues; is it my coil?, is it my HEP?, is my cap or rotor worn? did my dist move and my timing is off?. Now I only have 3 things to suspect if I have ignition issues, not 8. BadAss said if the coil goes then your stranded. The same applies to a distributer since there is still a coil in the equation. I never have to wonder if my int. shaft jumped a tooth or if my timing is out becuase it is always in. And I love making any timing adjustment I want though that is more of a MS thing and can also be done with a distributor if you run a standalone or something similar. Any system that is hacked in will hack you back, distributorless or non so that is an invalid argument. Done properly either system will treat you well. Anyway, everyone has there opinion and that's just my 2 cents.

DJ

Oh what do YOU know about building a car from the ground up with custom fabricated parts and a distributor-less system.....:bolt:

BTW, I RE-READ the thread about your car. Absolutely awesome.

[TurboII]

i guess really comes down to personal preference.... im guess either or good

[turboshad]

Oh what do YOU know about building a car from the ground up with custom fabricated parts and a distributor-less system.....:bolt:

BTW, I RE-READ the thread about your car. Absolutely awesome.

LOL, thanks man. I know what I know but there is still sooooooo much more to learn. I'm not even close to those I admire. I really think this whole topic comes down to preference and the resources you have available. Either way can be done well and get as much power as you ever will out of an 8V.

[BadAssPerformance]

i guess really comes down to personal preference.... im guess either or good

Pretty much... maybe I just maintain my old school 2.2L distributor ignition systems too well to ever think of using anything different?

[t3rse]

in all reality, going distributorless may give you 1/60 of a horsepower...then again you may lose that with more alternator load...:lol:

[GLHS592]

Besides the fact that I am 2.4 and MSed there are good points to distributorless IMHO. I used to care about puddles and washing my engine, not anymore. Less moving and wearing parts. I have issues; is it my coil?, is it my HEP?, is my cap or rotor worn? did my dist move and my timing is off?. Now I only have 3 things to suspect if I have ignition issues, not 8. BadAss said if the coil goes then your stranded. The same applies to a distributer since there is still a coil in the equation. I never have to wonder if my int. shaft jumped a tooth or if my timing is out becuase it is always in. And I love making any timing adjustment I want though that is more of a MS thing and can also be done with a distributor if you run a standalone or something similar. Any system that is hacked in will hack you back, distributorless or non so that is an invalid argument. Done properly either system will treat you well. Anyway, everyone has there opinion and that's just my 2 cents.

DJ

Well said. I have a SDS distributorless standalone and it was the best money I've spent on my car. I remember fighting a miss in my GLHS for a while. I bought new plugs and wires and fiddled with all kinds of stuff. Finally, it hit me that it might be in the distributor. The plastic welds inside had come loose. What a pain.

[BadAssPerformance]

Besides the fact that I am 2.4 and MSed there are good points to distributorless IMHO. I used to care about puddles and washing my engine, not anymore. Less moving and wearing parts. I have issues; is it my coil?, is it my HEP?, is my cap or rotor worn? did my dist move and my timing is off?. Now I only have 3 things to suspect if I have ignition issues, not 8. BadAss said if the coil goes then your stranded. The same applies to a distributer since there is still a coil in the equation. I never have to wonder if my int. shaft jumped a tooth or if my timing is out becuase it is always in. And I love making any timing adjustment I want though that is more of a MS thing and can also be done with a distributor if you run a standalone or something similar. Any system that is hacked in will hack you back, distributorless or non so that is an invalid argument. Done properly either system will treat you well. Anyway, everyone has there opinion and that's just my 2 cents.

DJ

Well said. I have a SDS distributorless standalone and it was the best money I've spent on my car. I remember fighting a miss in my GLHS for a while. I bought new plugs and wires and fiddled with all kinds of stuff. Finally, it hit me that it might be in the distributor. The plastic welds inside had come loose. What a pain.

I'll agree with you and turboshad that the stand alone was money well spent, but mine came with a distributor and worked well ;)

I'll never say that distributors cant have issues, I mean heck, who has a spare Hall Effect in their glove box? ;) I guess I just havnt had as much issues as others diagnosing or servicing them?

I try to base every mod I do to a car based on some sort of a cost/benefit ratio and to go stand alone it can be a huge benefit if you do a motor swap or race the car. Just to go DIS on a dd? not so much...

To answer the OP's question of how?

The easiest would be stand alone system like MS or SDS or FAST, etc...

The cleanest stock looking method that will be less expensive but require a bunch or wiring ... and difficult to tune but look factory-ish... run T-III wiring and DIS setup. will require both a cam and crank sensor and custom cal if you're not 16v...