Oil cooler, anyone running one?

[boost geek]

I picked this up at the junkyard yesterday off a 3.8 AWD mini. I have lots of room in my L body to use it, seeing I'm using a P body rad. Anyone know how good they work?

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/100_2778.jpg

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k302/boostgeek/100_2780.jpg

[bakes]

They work good they help to bring the oil up to temp faster and help the oil temps from getting to high .
I used on on my glh it ran 30min sprints and helped control the oil temps pretty good for a stock piece.

[moparfwdsleeper]

what year was that off of? I didn't know they had oil coolers, time to go to the pick n pull!

[boost geek]

I think it was off a '97 or '98, only 1 van had it. There were 3 3.8's there.

[neongary]

Looks a lot like that "export" cooler that some have been selling for big $$. I think that Mopar Performance used to sell a similar part too. Good find!

[A.J.]

I don't like those because they only cool down/heat up the oil to the coolant temp. You're not really curing anything because your just transferring the heat load to your cooling system. Except maybe extending the life of your oil a little, maybe. I like the sandwich style adaptors that pump the oil out separate cooler helping the cooling system by removing that additional heat load. Mine really helped out in 115 + ambient temps.

Pictures of my setup can be seen here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21360

A.J.

[black86glhs]

I don't like those because they only cool down/heat up the oil to the coolant temp. You're not really curing anything because your just transferring the heat load to your cooling system. Except maybe extending the life of your oil a little, maybe. I like the sandwich style adaptors that pump the oil out separate cooler helping the cooling system by removing that additional heat load. Mine really helped out in 115 + ambient temps.

Pictures of my setup can be seen here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21360

A.J.Thats why you get a trans cooler and run the lines from the cooler to the adapter.:thumb:

[boost geek]

My car runs very cool with the larger rad, for $10 I'll give it a try.:)

[neongary]

I don't like those because they only cool down/heat up the oil to the coolant temp. You're not really curing anything because your just transferring the heat load to your cooling system. Except maybe extending the life of your oil a little, maybe. I like the sandwich style adaptors that pump the oil out separate cooler helping the cooling system by removing that additional heat load. Mine really helped out in 115 + ambient temps.

Pictures of my setup can be seen here: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21360

A.J.

A lot of OEM's use this type of additional cooling, so it must work OK. Wouldn't the cooling system have a easier job of rejecting the minor additional heat than the oiling system?
Besides, I really doubt that B.C. sees temps in the 115+ range.

[A.J.]

Thats why you get a trans cooler and run the lines from the cooler to the adapter.:thumb:

Which cooler? My oil to air cooler or Boost Geek's oil to water cooler.

You can't with my cooler because the 5/16" ends on the tranny cooler are too small. You need to run 1/2" hose with mine or you'll starve your engine.

You can't with Boost Geek's adaptor because again, trans cooler lines are 5/16" and his adaptor is 5/8" heater hose.

Now, you could run Boost Geek's oil to water adaptor with a heater core in front and have the water flow through the heater core, get cooled off, then flow through the oil cooler, then return to the engine. That would work.:thumb:

A.J.

[A.J.]

A lot of OEM's use this type of additional cooling, so it must work OK. Wouldn't the cooling system have a easier job of rejecting the minor additional heat than the oiling system?

Not necessarily. Chrysler didn't install a B.O.V. on T-II cars. Does that mean you don't need one. I think factory cars run the oil to water as oppose to oil to air is because of cost. I'm sure it helps somewhat.


Besides, I really doubt that B.C. sees temps in the 115+ range.

Agreed. I'm not saying it's a waste or won't work. I'm just supplying additional information and options. For a $10 adaptor and the price of heater hose, go for it. My set up cost $30 for the adaptor and $70 for the B&M oil cooler. Plus the cost of barb adaptors, hose, mounting brackets, etc.

A.J.

[moparzrule]

Somebody is going to be very sorry if they use heater hose for oil cooler lines.

These engines seem to run extremely hot oil temps, don't know why. And external oil cooler would probably give a longer life to most of our engines. Running synthetic helps because it doesn't break down until higher temps.

Do yourselves a favor, if you are looking to get an oil cooler go out and buy a proper kit for it. $80 at my local performance parts store for everything.

(pic is not the cooler new, it's after I took it back off my car...and that is not regular heater hose either)
http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m216/87wagon/Oilcooler.jpg

[bakes]

I have used this cooler in my race car running up to 7800 rpm for 30 mins straight heats with out a problem in 110* heat is a good piece for a stock part
YES a liquid to air is better but it bring on it own set of problems ,front end rel-estate in smaller vehicles is a packaging issue . long supply and feed lines can cause cold start oil staving problems which is why you need to install oil accumulator to stop a dry starts . its best used with a dry sump system.

[black86glhs]

Which cooler? My oil to air cooler or Boost Geek's oil to water cooler.

You can't with my cooler because the 5/16" ends on the tranny cooler are too small. You need to run 1/2" hose with mine or you'll starve your engine.

You can't with Boost Geek's adaptor because again, trans cooler lines are 5/16" and his adaptor is 5/8" heater hose.

Now, you could run Boost Geek's oil to water adaptor with a heater core in front and have the water flow through the heater core, get cooled off, then flow through the oil cooler, then return to the engine. That would work.

A.J.I got what you are saying AJ....I forgot those used coolant to circulate around the oil. I was thinking an aftermarket unit like I have in the garage.:thumb:

[mopar-tech]

I had an external one on my van, made the difference between cooling it while towing and not.

30% of your engine cooling is through the oiling system.

[bakes]

I had an external one on my van, made the difference between cooling it while towing and not.

30% of your engine cooling is through the oiling system.

So true!

[A.J.]

I had an external one on my van, made the difference between cooling it while towing and not.

30% of your engine cooling is through the oiling system.

I agree. My temps went from 240+ (my gauge stops at 240) pulling the mountains going to Flagstaff from Phoenix with ambient temps 100-110 *F, the a/c off, with four people and our hunting gear to under 230 with the a/c on same load.

Like neongary said. It doesn't get that hot up north.

A.J.

[bakes]

[QUOTE=A.J.;473771]I agree. My temps went from 240+ (my gauge stops at 240) pulling the mountains going to Flagstaff from Phoenix with ambient temps 100-110 *F, the a/c off, with four people and our hunting gear to under 230 with the a/c on same load.

Like nondairy said. It doesn't get that hot up north.

A.J.[/QUOTE
105-110 * up north is not hot thats news to Dick,Simon and I, maybe I should run studded tires all year round lol.

[A.J.]

I lived in NH for most of my life and it very rarely got over 100*F. Humidity sucked and made it feel like over 100 but cars don't care about that.

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

105-110 * up north is not hot thats news to Dick,Simon and I, maybe I should run studded tires all year round lol.


Yep, don't forget, we live in a cold/snow/ice zone 24/7 with our igloo's and Eskimo friends named Nuntuk, :o :eyebrows:

I really got to get an oil cooler I think, it will help with my engine running hot, I'll just get the B@M unit, my cooling system is already maxed out, :(

[turbojerk]

My rig with a remote oil filter location.

Even on the hot day's I can still lay my hand on the valve cover without burning. Stays pretty steady at 180/200deg. I just used some small block oil filter parts and a B&M cooler.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3266/2752033804_0aaed3eb42_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3121/2752032866_d9890069d1_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3320/3289399080_c73a31b23e_b.jpg

[moparzrule]

I just used some small block oil filter parts and a B&M cooler.


Yup the kit for a small block ford is what works. I ordered my cooler kit for an 80's mustang with the 5.0.

[neongary]

[QUOTE=A.J.;473771]I agree. My temps went from 240+ (my gauge stops at 240) pulling the mountains going to Flagstaff from Phoenix with ambient temps 100-110 *F, the a/c off, with four people and our hunting gear to under 230 with the a/c on same load.

Like nondairy said. It doesn't get that hot up north.

A.J.[/QUOTE
105-110 * up north is not hot thats news to Dick,Simon and I, maybe I should run studded tires all year round lol.

Just going by the B.C. Official Tourism web site. Call me crazy :confused:
"Summer:
Summers are hottest in BC's interior, particularly in the south where temperatures frequently surpass 30°C (86°F). Nearer the coast, temperatures range from 22 to 28°C (72 to 83°F). Recommended clothing for both regions in summer is the same: shorts, short-sleeved shirts and light dresses in daytime and sweaters and trousers in the evenings."
Guess "hot" is relative. Personally, Arizona is hot and I know "It's a dry heat". Yeah, OK. :D

[neongary]

My rig with a remote oil filter location.

Even on the hot day's I can still lay my hand on the valve cover without burning. Stays pretty steady at 180/200deg. I just used some small block oil filter parts and a B&M cooler.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3266/2752033804_0aaed3eb42_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3121/2752032866_d9890069d1_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3320/3289399080_c73a31b23e_b.jpg
Now that's a clean setup! Love the proper use of cushion clamps and braided hose. How is the cooler attached? Please don't say that you used those push-through plastic things. Those eventually wiggle loose and cut through the radiator fins.

[A.J.]

[quote=bakes;473773]

Just going by the B.C. Official Tourism web site. Call me crazy :confused:
"Summer:
Summers are hottest in BC's interior, particularly in the south where temperatures frequently surpass 30°C (86°F). Nearer the coast, temperatures range from 22 to 28°C (72 to 83°F). Recommended clothing for both regions in summer is the same: shorts, short-sleeved shirts and light dresses in daytime and sweaters and trousers in the evenings."
Guess "hot" is relative. Personally, Arizona is hot and I know "It's a dry heat". Yeah, OK. :D

I think it's funny how a couple of summers ago (maybe 5) France had a heat wave. It was in the :eek: 90's :wow1: and people were dropping dead in the streets. I'm thinking (at the time is was 112*F) what I wouldn't do for 99*F.

A.J.

[turbojerk]

Yup the kit for a small block ford is what works. I ordered my cooler kit for an 80's mustang with the 5.0.

Must be the same for the small block 318/340/360 cause that's what I ordered. I would never put Phord stuff on my shiddy Dodge...;)

[turbojerk]

How is the cooler attached? Please don't say that you used those push-through plastic things. Those eventually wiggle loose and cut through the radiator fins.

Sorry....

That's what I used and I've never had a problem with that on anything that I've used them on in the past....

[moparzrule]

[quote=neongary;473863]

I think it's funny how a couple of summers ago (maybe 5) France had a heat wave. It was in the :eek: 90's :wow1: and people were dropping dead in the streets. I'm thinking (at the time is was 112*F) what I wouldn't do for 99*F.

A.J.

I would take 112 in arizona over 99 in PA ANYDAY

[A.J.]

Now that's a clean setup! Love the proper use of cushion clamps and braided hose. How is the cooler attached? Please don't say that you used those push-through plastic things. Those eventually wiggle loose and cut through the radiator fins.

I agree a lot cleaner and professional looking than mine.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/oilcooler1.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0280.jpg

A.J.

[neongary]

Sorry....

That's what I used and I've never had a problem with that on anything that I've used them on in the past....

:thumb:
I had a friend whose radiator started leaking because of those plastic fasteners on a trans cooler. Maybe he didn't install them correctly?

[Reaper1]

I use an oil cooler as well. I beleive that it is one of those upgrades that should be done to EVERY turbo car!! It doesn't add power or cool factor, but it can help the engine live a longer, happier life! ;)

[A.J.]

I use an oil cooler as well. I beleive that it is one of those upgrades that should be done to EVERY turbo car!! It doesn't add power or cool factor, but it can help the engine live a longer, happier life! ;)

Absolutely! If you look at the oil schematic in the FSM as soon as the oil leaves the pump it goes to the filter, then the oil galley that supplies the oil distribution block that supplies the turbo.

So think about it. Oil leaves the pump, goes to the sandwich adaptor, then to the cooler and gets cooled down, then goes to the turbo and the rest of the motor.


http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/sc0048c5d6.jpg

A.J.

[boost geek]

[quote=bakes;473773]

Just going by the B.C. Official Tourism web site. Call me crazy :confused:
"Summer:
Summers are hottest in BC's interior, particularly in the south where temperatures frequently surpass 30°C (86°F). Nearer the coast, temperatures range from 22 to 28°C (72 to 83°F). Recommended clothing for both regions in summer is the same: shorts, short-sleeved shirts and light dresses in daytime and sweaters and trousers in the evenings."
Guess "hot" is relative. Personally, Arizona is hot and I know "It's a dry heat". Yeah, OK. :D

Those numbers sound a little low. Go to Spences Bridge or Osoyoos in the summer, gets way hotter than that.

http://www.cbc.ca/canada/british-columbia/story/2007/07/12/bc-recordtemps.html

[neongary]

I use an oil cooler as well. I beleive that it is one of those upgrades that should be done to EVERY turbo car!! It doesn't add power or cool factor, but it can help the engine live a longer, happier life! ;) :thumb:
Found this from the Perma-Cool web site:
The ideal operating range for engine oil is 180°F through 200°F. While operating within this range, the oil works as a lubricant, coolant, and cleansing agent in the engine. Modern engines generally run with radiator coolant temperatures between 200°F and 220°F with oil temperature ranges between 20°F and 75°F HOTTER. In other words, when the engine is performing flawlessly, the engine oil is already overheating! Oil that exceeds 220°F rapidly loses its ability to lubricate and cool causing accelerated fatigue and premature component failure.

Perma-Cool® oil cooler coils are engineered for maximum cooling efficiency with no restriction in oil flow. Because different engines have varying oil flow requirements, Perma-Cool® rates Engine Oil Coolers by engine horsepower and oil flow rates. This results in cooler coil and engine flow rates that closely match.

Perma-Cool® Engine Oil Coolers can reduce the oil temperature to between 180°F to 200°F and keep it there. Benefits are:

* Longer engine life
* Reduced heat load on engine and radiator
* Increased oil system capacity
* Lower under-hood temperatures and more!

It would be interesting to compare a oil-water cooler vs a oil-air to see what the temp differences are. Anyone running a oil temp gauge??
As much as I think the oil-water versions are cool (no pun intended), I have to think that the oil-air versions are more effective. Turbo Jerk's and A.J.'s look like an ideal set up. (AJ, how in the heck does air get through to the radiator?)

[R/T]

What I've done in a few cars:

Put a small cooler - Conquests have one - in the turbo oil feed line.

While it's not a large volume of oil, it goes direct to the turbo, and every lil bit helps.

Also, Volvos have a nice factory oil cooler on their turbo cars, keep an eye out at the j yard.

[A.J.]

AJ, how in the heck does air get through to the radiator?

Through the intercooler.

Looking at the picture, You've got the A/C condenser on the left with the engine oil cooler in front of it. On the right you have the intercooler in the front, the transmission cooler behind it, then the radiator behind that. I think the only car that has less room in the front is the Omni and I managed to cram it all in there and keep it looking original.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e301/thebest4/DSCF0287.jpg

For more details check out: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21048

A.J.

[Reaper1]

I did a very similar set-up with my van when I had it. My oil cooleer was about the same size, but I had it mounted from the top of the core support. I had to trim the backside of the grill to get it to fit. I also used a TII radiator and I/C. My tranny cooler was mounted up front, but then I moved it to in front of the dirver's wheel inside the wheel well and it was fed by a 3" blower and it had a custom fiberglass shroud.

I was about to mount the oil cooler under the hood laying down over top of where the horns are and feed it with a custom NACA duct in the hood. Then the van got an electrical problem I couldn't figure out and I never did it.... :(

[A.J.]

I had to trim the backside of the grill to get it to fit.

I had to do the same thing. And if you noticed, the center grill support is gone and I had to trim the plastic that the grill screws to on both sides. I only have four screws holding on my grill instead of eight

A.J.

[turbovanman²]

:thumb:
Found this from the Perma-Cool web site:
The ideal operating range for engine oil is 180°F through 200°F. While operating within this range, the oil works as a lubricant, coolant, and cleansing agent in the engine. Modern engines generally run with radiator coolant temperatures between 200°F and 220°F with oil temperature ranges between 20°F and 75°F HOTTER. In other words, when the engine is performing flawlessly, the engine oil is already overheating! Oil that exceeds 220°F rapidly loses its ability to lubricate and cool causing accelerated fatigue and premature component failure.

Perma-Cool® oil cooler coils are engineered for maximum cooling efficiency with no restriction in oil flow. Because different engines have varying oil flow requirements, Perma-Cool® rates Engine Oil Coolers by engine horsepower and oil flow rates. This results in cooler coil and engine flow rates that closely match.

Perma-Cool® Engine Oil Coolers can reduce the oil temperature to between 180°F to 200°F and keep it there. Benefits are:

* Longer engine life
* Reduced heat load on engine and radiator
* Increased oil system capacity
* Lower under-hood temperatures and more!

It would be interesting to compare a oil-water cooler vs a oil-air to see what the temp differences are. Anyone running a oil temp gauge??
As much as I think the oil-water versions are cool (no pun intended), I have to think that the oil-air versions are more effective. Turbo Jerk's and A.J.'s look like an ideal set up. (AJ, how in the heck does air get through to the radiator?)

Very interesting info, :D

I had a similar setup in my van when I first built it, worked great but I wanted to mount a larger IC and it was easier for me to move the condensor over and have the IC open, all by itself, :thumb:

[contraption22]

I think these oil-to-coolant coolers make a nice addition, especially if your engine cooling system is more than adequate and you run a cooler thermostat. There are several problems associated with oil-to-air coolers as explained above.

Of course if you really have problems with engine cooling and oil cooling specifically, and oil-to-air cooler would probably be what you need.

[GLHNSLHT2]

TurboJerk is your kit thermostatically controled? so it only sends oil through the cooler when the oil get's too hot?

[turbojerk]

TurboJerk is your kit thermostatically controled? so it only sends oil through the cooler when the oil get's too hot?

Nope, in and out... Didn't have room for the adapter.

This is not ideal for colder climates and daily drivers. I always let this car get up to temp before driving since it's my toy...

Here's my daily driver set up that's thermostatically controlled...

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/9202/coolerjpg0ww.jpg

[turbovanman²]

I think these oil-to-coolant coolers make a nice addition, especially if your engine cooling system is more than adequate and you run a cooler thermostat. There are several problems associated with oil-to-air coolers as explained above.

Of course if you really have problems with engine cooling and oil cooling specifically, and oil-to-air cooler would probably be what you need.

What's wrong with oil to air? I must have missed the bad thread?

I can't see oil to coolant being good if your cooling system is already maxed out???

Just coming back from a 4 hour trip thru the mountains, had trouble keeping the engine cool and the oil pressure dropped aprox 5-8 psi when idling after I got to my destination, it came back after it cooled down. Going to try and rig up a temp oil temp gauge thru my oil drain plug and see what my oil temps are and if I a cooler is needed and if I do install one, how much my oil temps drop, phew.



Nope, in and out... Didn't have room for the adapter.

This is not ideal for colder climates and daily drivers. I always let this car get up to temp before driving since it's my toy...

Here's my daily driver set up that's thermostatically controlled...

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/9202/coolerjpg0ww.jpg


Is there a built in valve in the cooler??????

[turbojerk]

Is there a built in valve in the cooler??????

There's a spring bypass valve in the filter adapter.

[GLHNSLHT2]

So does the oil go out of the pump, through the filter, then out to the cooler if it needs to then back to the motor? I think that's the way I want to go since I drive my car daily. Also is the check valve retained?

[88C/S]

I have and oil-to-air cooler which has a similar looking adapter as turbojerk's on my daily driver. The radiator part is in front of the air conditioner radiator. Works fine, especially with synthetic oil or synthetic blends.:nod:

[turbovanman²]

I have and oil-to-air cooler which has a similar looking adapter as turbojerk's on my daily driver. The radiator part is in front of the air conditioner radiator. Works fine, especially with synthetic oil or synthetic blends.:nod:


Yeah, that's what I was thinking, :thumb:

[Reaper1]

There's nothing wrong with oil/air coolers. 99% of race cars use exactly that and seem to work fine...

I personally don't like having to worry about something going wrong with an oil/water cooler and contaminating either system with the other fluid....

[contraption22]

What's wrong with oil to air? I must have missed the bad thread?

I can't see oil to coolant being good if your cooling system is already maxed out???

Just coming back from a 4 hour trip thru the mountains, had trouble keeping the engine cool and the oil pressure dropped aprox 5-8 psi when idling after I got to my destination, it came back after it cooled down. Going to try and rig up a temp oil temp gauge thru my oil drain plug and see what my oil temps are and if I a cooler is needed and if I do install one, how much my oil temps drop, phew.



I'd respond, but all you really need to do re-read my post.... slowly this time. :)

[neongary]

There's nothing wrong with oil/air coolers. 99% of race cars use exactly that and seem to work fine...

I personally don't like having to worry about something going wrong with an oil/water cooler and contaminating either system with the other fluid....
I was looking at these Mocal Laminova type coolers and at one point in the literature it says that they are "crash resistant". Pretty tough stuff! But I here ya on the mixing of the fluids. Anything is possible I suppose.

[neongary]

I'd respond, but all you really need to do re-read my post.... slowly this time. :)

Simon being Simon....again. :clap:

[minigts]

My rig with a remote oil filter location.

Even on the hot day's I can still lay my hand on the valve cover without burning. Stays pretty steady at 180/200deg. I just used some small block oil filter parts and a B&M cooler.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3121/2752032866_d9890069d1_b.jpg


THIS is the setup I was looking to see in this thread. That is such a cool and clean looking setup you have on that. I posted on the original thread you created when doing this. I'd LOVE to do this for my car. Excellent work! :thumb:

[GLHNSLHT2]

So does the oil go out of the pump, through the filter, then out to the cooler if it needs to then back to the motor? I think that's the way I want to go since I drive my car daily. Also is the check valve retained?


No one knows???

[turbojerk]

THIS is the setup I was looking to see in this thread. That is such a cool and clean looking setup you have on that. I posted on the original thread you created when doing this. I'd LOVE to do this for my car. Excellent work! :thumb:

Just did the first oil change with this set up last week. Man that was nice!!

I didn't even get dirty. Cleanest oil change ever!:thumb:

[turbojerk]

Here's the modified filter bracket that I fab'd up for those who asked about it...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3214/2751196773_59323b22c0_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3126/2752030616_8e261fa7e1_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3278/2752031994_b29ee71882_b.jpg

[turbojerk]

No one knows???

Yes,... at least that how all of mine work.

[minigts]

Here's the modified filter bracket that I fab'd up for those who asked about it...


Amazingly cool picture here



Amazingly cool picture here



Amazingly cool picture here




Seriously, you should make these and sell them. Just about ANY l-body owner who wants to use an oil cooler would buy this. Even those who don't would do it for the cool factor.

[turbovanman²]

I'd respond, but all you really need to do re-read my post.... slowly this time. :)

You said oil to air are bad, and I said must have missed the post where they are bad or several drawbacks you say they have, :confused:

Still can't find the post where oil to air are bad and oil to coolant are better?

The post above is the Perma-cool quote, which is oil to air?? :confused:

[WickedShelby88]

Seriously, you should make these and sell them. Just about ANY l-body owner who wants to use an oil cooler would buy this. Even those who don't would do it for the cool factor.

Not just L body. On the other K based car I believe that is also where the charcoal canister goes so in those applications it could work as well. I've got some aluminum plate I have been saving at work. Hmm. I never thought of this.
Also I know it was mentioned in another thread but the RX-7's used a factory oil cooler mounted in the front. Huge thing. I guess the oil in the rotary engines would tend to get hotter so as a result mazda came up with a heavy duty cooler.
Almost all GM 4x4 blazers and vans use an oil cooler built into the radiator. Haven't seen one yet that had oil mix with the coolant. I'm sure it is possible though.

[GLHNSLHT2]

that's a nice place but my battery is sitting where those oil lines are.

[turbovanman²]

Almost all GM 4x4 blazers and vans use an oil cooler built into the radiator. Haven't seen one yet that had oil mix with the coolant. I'm sure it is possible though.

I've seen it, you think you've cracked a block or blown a heads gasket, makes one hell of a mess, :(

[Reaper1]

I was looking at these Mocal Laminova type coolers and at one point in the literature it says that they are "crash resistant". Pretty tough stuff! But I here ya on the mixing of the fluids. Anything is possible I suppose.

Yeah, that is a nice piece for sure, but again it puts more stress on the cooling system...something we DEFINATLY don't need!


Seriously, you should make these and sell them. Just about ANY l-body owner who wants to use an oil cooler would buy this. Even those who don't would do it for the cool factor.

I'd buy one! I *could* make it, but hey, if it's alreasy done! I've thought several times of putting my oil filter over there...just never have done it...yet! LOL



Also I know it was mentioned in another thread but the RX-7's used a factory oil cooler mounted in the front. Huge thing. I guess the oil in the rotary engines would tend to get hotter so as a result mazda came up with a heavy duty cooler.
Almost all GM 4x4 blazers and vans use an oil cooler built into the radiator. Haven't seen one yet that had oil mix with the coolant. I'm sure it is possible though.

Yes, I know for act gen2 RX-7's have a nice oil cooler on them. They are usually gone if you find one in the yard, but if you do find one they are reported to work VERY well and are inexpensive too! :thumb:

Most auto trannies also run a cooler in the radiator...I'm just not a fan that's all...as it's been said, thing CAN happen!

[turbovanman²]

Crap, just phoned my local hi po store, a kit with a thermostat is $250, without, $125. :(

[contraption22]

You said oil to air are bad, and I said must have missed the post where they are bad or several drawbacks you say they have, :confused:

Still can't find the post where oil to air are bad and oil to coolant are better?

The post above is the Perma-cool quote, which is oil to air?? :confused:



YES a liquid to air is better but it bring on it own set of problems ,front end rel-estate in smaller vehicles is a packaging issue . long supply and feed lines can cause cold start oil staving problems which is why you need to install oil accumulator to stop a dry starts . its best used with a dry sump system.


I have experienced this first hand. I used to have an oil-to-air cooler on my Horizon back in the day when I was running a TII radiator, very similar to Troy's setup. It worked well but it would rattle like crazy on a cold start up. I suspect this had a hand in rod bearing wear and it would take a good long time for the oil to get up to temperature in the winter, bad enough that I was looking into dipstick engine oil heaters before I decided to ditch the TII radiator.

[turbovanman²]

I have experienced this first hand. I used to have an oil-to-air cooler on my Horizon back in the day when I was running a TII radiator, very similar to Troy's setup. It worked well but it would rattle like crazy on a cold start up. I suspect this had a hand in rod bearing wear and it would take a good long time for the oil to get up to temperature in the winter, bad enough that I was looking into dipstick engine oil heaters before I decided to ditch the TII radiator.

^^^^^^^^^Thank's, and ironically, I was thinking about cold starts but then again, the GM trucks have 10 or more feet of oil line and they have no oil pressure issues. Interesting!!

[GLHNSLHT2]

If the oil comes from the pump, to the filter, through the check vavle, then out the thermostatically controlled adapter, then too the cooler, then back to the engine then the system should remain pressurized that cold starts shouldn't be a problem. right?

[moparzrule]

If it's a thermostatically controlled one it shouldn't matter on the cold starts because it acts like you don't have the cooler on there at all until the oil warms up.

[bakes]

I have experienced this first hand. I used to have an oil-to-air cooler on my Horizon back in the day when I was running a TII radiator, very similar to Troy's setup. It worked well but it would rattle like crazy on a cold start up. I suspect this had a hand in rod bearing wear and it would take a good long time for the oil to get up to temperature in the winter, bad enough that I was looking into dipstick engine oil heaters before I decided to ditch the TII radiator.

I wiped out 2 3.8 l buick cranks due to cold start lube issues and locked up a 675hp 454 when external oil cooler line blew out at full RPM , buy the time we figured out we had a problem and it was to late , since then we deleated the oil cooler .(mud and hillclimbing truck)
This why i use the oil to water cooler when i can .

[boost geek]

If I find another one, the Dance will get one too. :)

[turbovanman²]

Hey, I found a sandwhich adapter that has a built in thermostat/bypass, I called them and it won't flow oil thru the filter/cooler until the temp hits 180 deg. Its priced very nicely too, :thumb:

I don't like the no filtering part until 180 but they swear I will not have any engine wear issues? What do you guys think?

[bakes]

Hey, I found a sandwhich adapter that has a built in thermostat/bypass, I called them and it won't flow oil thru the filter/cooler until the temp hits 180 deg. Its priced very nicely too, :thumb:

I don't like the no filtering part until 180 but they swear I will not have any engine wear issues? What do you guys think?

it bypass the fillter till warm? eeeeeeewwwooo i wont trust it not worth losing a crank too ! just hit P&P look on a 3.8 mini mostly the awd had them.
Then just cut /slpice into the heat hose right out of the water pump.

[turbovanman²]

it bypass the fillter till warm? eeeeeeewwwooo i wont trust it not worth losing a crank too ! just hit P&P look on a 3.8 mini mostly the awd had them.
Then just cut /slpice into the heat hose right out of the water pump.

Can't use a coolant unit, my cooling system is maxed out, I need this to help it run cooler or buy a custom rad, :(

[WLKivett]

You could add a trans/ oil cooler (but would be cooling the water) on the return water line from the minivan oil to water cooler

[boost geek]

Can't use a coolant unit, my cooling system is maxed out, I need this to help it run cooler or buy a custom rad, :(

Ya, you dont need one Simon, you leave them at PaP for me...:eyebrows:

[4 l-bodies]

Not just L body. On the other K based car Almost all GM 4x4 blazers and vans use an oil cooler built into the radiator. Haven't seen one yet that had oil mix with the coolant. I'm sure it is possible though.
I have. Just saw mixing of tranny and coolant (cooler leak) on a 3.3 minivan yesterday. Also just about every AWD GM van I've ever seen leaks at the flex portion of the oil cooler lines. Need to drop the front axle assembly to R&R the lines. Lovely. I'll bet Simon has replaced some of these. I can almost do that one blindfolded Ive done so many.
Todd

[GLHNSLHT2]

So does the oil go out of the pump, through the filter, then out to the cooler if it needs to then back to the motor? I think that's the way I want to go since I drive my car daily. Also is the check valve retained?


Yes,... at least that how all of mine work.


Hey, I found a sandwhich adapter that has a built in thermostat/bypass, I called them and it won't flow oil thru the filter/cooler until the temp hits 180 deg. Its priced very nicely too, :thumb:

I don't like the no filtering part until 180 but they swear I will not have any engine wear issues? What do you guys think?

Turbojerk's seems to go through the filter then either to the cooler or back to the motor. Does AJ's do the same? I can't see it not being filtered at all till 180. That seems stupid.

[turbovanman²]

I have. Just saw mixing of tranny and coolant (cooler leak) on a 3.3 minivan yesterday. Also just about every AWD GM van I've ever seen leaks at the flex portion of the oil cooler lines. Need to drop the front axle assembly to R&R the lines. Lovely. I'll bet Simon has replaced some of these. I can almost do that one blindfolded Ive done so many.
Todd

Yep, L, M van's and T-trucks, good money maker, lol.


Turbojerk's seems to go through the filter then either to the cooler or back to the motor. Does AJ's do the same? I can't see it not being filtered at all till 180. That seems stupid.

I agree, I've talked to a few friends who build race engines, they said no go, don't use it, but I didn't know this, small block chev's don't filter all of the oil, there is a check valve in the block, so some/all of the oil bypass's the filter and they last forever!!!!!

[johnl]

In stop go LA traffic in the summer time, I have seen 270*+ in the Ramerati.

Someone above mentioned a problem with low oil pressure on start up because of the length of the oil cooler lines.

The sandwich units that I have seen have a bi-metal spring in them that acts as a valve. As the bi-metal spring heats up, it changes shape, and it thereby opens one route and closes another. So . . . . it would seem that on cold start up, there would be no issue of the oil cooler causing low pressure. That said, on hot start, with the valve open, then, yeah, there might be an issue of too long a path . . . .

You gotta love the simplicity of the oil to coolant style. The path of the oil does not go into some hose, so, less risk of loss of oil pressure to some chassis/external oil line mishap.

[GLHNSLHT2]

270+?!?! Holy Sh!t!! My dad's 70' 911S with a 2.7 air cooled motor hasn't even gotten that hot when we were stuck in stop in go on the 91 in Riverside in 105 degree heat. And it was hot enough it melt the stupid plastic clutch cable connector so the clutch went out and we had to get people to move over so we could exit immediately and take side streets back to santa ana. He taught me how to drive without a clutch that day which was cool since I used it when I was 18 for about 2 months when my stupid audi clutch blew out for the 2nd time. We managed to find a replacement that was all metal and made it up to the mountains that evening.

[turbojerk]

Never had a problem with either of mine...

The cooler with the bypass (bi-metal spring type) valve on my DD has been in place now for over 4 years and other cooler arrangement without the valve has been installed for over a year now. I haven't noticed any low pressure (per oil psi gauge) or lifter noise on either car durring cold starts.

[turbovanman²]

Thought I'd update, mines installed and made a big difference, the temp gauge now sits at a 1/4, its rock solid, no more moving up on the highway etc like it used too. :thumb:

Forgot to add, this is with 30+ deg C outside temps, :nod:

[turbojerk]

Pic'?

[turbovanman²]

Pic'?

Yeah, working on them, I have the new tranny cooler also, :thumb:

[GLHNSLHT2]

part #, location to buy, Bypasses the cooler till a certain temp but goes through the filter at all times?

[chilort]

Damn, you all got me thinking about this now.

I'm guessing the 3.8L version always goes through the filter.

I went driving around Smokey Mountain National Park this past weekend and things got very warm. I found that if I modulated the throttle rather than holding it in one position it tended to run cooler.

[turbovanman²]

part #, location to buy, Bypasses the cooler till a certain temp but goes through the filter at all times?

Sandwhich adapter, internal thermostat and filters the oil all the time.

At the track tonight, temp stayed rock solid, :thumb:

[xdig]

Sandwhich adapter, internal thermostat and filters the oil all the time.

At the track tonight, temp stayed rock solid, :thumb:

Simon, which set-up are you running and where did you get it?

[turbojerk]

This is the one that I used. It's temp comtroled and also fits small block Mopar.

INFO. (http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3302)

http://www.tdperformance.com/images_products/L_5304.jpg

[xdig]

This is the one that I used. It's temp comtroled and also fits small block Mopar.

INFO. (http://www.tdperformance.com/products/?id=3302)

http://www.tdperformance.com/images_products/L_5304.jpg

Do you recall which pn that you used? Thanks for the help.

[turbovanman²]

I'll post up full info when I get my computers fixed. I can only surf for minutes then they shut off, :mad:

[ShadowFromHell]

Now, please don't call me stupid, but the lines coming out of the sandwich adapter, does the oil come out of those, or do you hook coolant to them?

[turbovanman²]

Now, please don't call me stupid, but the lines coming out of the sandwich adapter, does the oil come out of those, or do you hook coolant to them?

Depends on your setup, some have oil, some have coolant, mine has oil.

[minigts]

Do you recall which pn that you used? Thanks for the help.

+1 on that. Also, Matt and a few others have stated they are running one, but could those who are running oil coolers provide a little detail on what brands you are using, model numbers if you know them and any details on issues or additional parts needed?

I'm interested in getting something, but need to save up for this and would like to be aware of any additional cost besides the oil cooler kit.

Thanks!

[turbovanman²]

+1 on that. Also, Matt and a few others have stated they are running one, but could those who are running oil coolers provide a little detail on what brands you are using, model numbers if you know them and any details on issues or additional parts needed?

I'm interested in getting something, but need to save up for this and would like to be aware of any additional cost besides the oil cooler kit.

Thanks!


I will, if you saw my lounge post, having mass computer issues. Patience grasshopper. :nod:

[GLHNSLHT2]

oil comes out, you run them to the oil cooler and back.

[puppet]

I use a older Hayden unit. 1/2" lines and cooler piping.
Just about any thermostatic sandwich adapter will do. Google them up and hit ebay. As for the cooler, once again, hit ebay. Setrab makes a real nice unit. You'll be building the system from the ground up but it isn't rocket science. I added an additional filter in the lines from the engine to the cooler on the return side. Picked up (3) Fram adapters off ebay for a buck a throw. Lines can be AN or grab some fittings for 1/2" FI hose or hydraulic line.

[A.J.]

+1 on that. Also, Matt and a few others have stated they are running one, but could those who are running oil coolers provide a little detail on what brands you are using, model numbers if you know them and any details on issues or additional parts needed?

I'm interested in getting something, but need to save up for this and would like to be aware of any additional cost besides the oil cooler kit.

Thanks!

On one of the oil cooler threads I posted pictures, part numbers, prices, and where I bought mine. I demand a retraction! :nod:

A.J.

[minigts]

On one of the oil cooler threads I posted pictures, part numbers, prices, and where I bought mine. I demand a retraction! :nod:

A.J.

Does everyone have the same one as yours? I was asking for the different ones everyone has run in order to get an idea of what's available, what was done and extra parts needed. :)

If you posted the information is in this thread, I'll look it up.

[turbojerk]

Do you recall which pn that you used? Thanks for the help.

I do not recall the actual part number since it's been a few years now...

Just go to Napa and tell them to get their Trans Dapt book out and order a sandwich adaper to fit a 318/340/360 and you'll be good to go...

[Reaper1]

I'm using a B&M Supercooler 70266 IIRC. The measuremenst are a little fuzzy to me right now, but I know it looks exactly like that and it is one of the 1.5" thick units that uses AN fittings.

As for the sandwich adapter...whatever it was that I got from Automotive Engineering. The lines were prefab as well from the same company. I eventually plant to get new lines and relocate my oil filter to where the charcole canister is(can't help it that's a great idea!! :thumb: ), but for now it works great!

I do not have a thermostat or oil temp gage, but in Fl it is rarely needed! :D