running without the AIS sensor

[Juggy]

a few months back when chatting with Jay (GLHNSLHT2) he noted to me that hes not running the AIS sensor on his car.

we r both running the 58mm TB's

I was wondering what the pros/cons to this may be??
if its not plugged in it should pulll a code right? what would an AIS code cause a car to run like??

I remember when I had my old 3.0L V6 duster....the car had a 2K high idle and always revved high until i stopped rolling.

i disconnected the AIS and the car ran like a top, throttle response was super crisp, and had a nice 8-900ish RPM idle.....altho I could not start the car with the sensor disconnected....always just unplugged it after car was running.

but im pretty sure i can fire up my car on the 89 smec with the AIS disconnected....

[Marcus86GLHS]

i wouldnt run w/o the AIS. According to the chrysler manuals, the logic module requires input from the AIS (along w/ the other sensors) to properly set air/fuel ratios (ie: injector functions) under various throttle blade positions. it's only a $65 part, why chance an over-lean condition at w.o.t.?

[contraption22]

i wouldnt run w/o the AIS. According to the chrysler manuals, the logic module requires input from the AIS (along w/ the other sensors) to properly set air/fuel ratios (ie: injector functions) under various throttle blade positions. it's only a $65 part, why chance an over-lean condition at w.o.t.?

I think you are thinking of the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). The AIS motor is not a sensor.

[Marcus86GLHS]

right! TPS that is what i meant sorry.

ok dont run w/o the TPS.

:-)

[Clay]

if its a primary drag car I would say loose it, heck, you can make it work on a street car. Just set your minimum idle and go with it. You might have some drivability issues under some conditions, but otherwise there shouldn't be many ill effects.

[contraption22]

if its a primary drag car I would say loose it, heck, you can make it work on a street car. Just set your minimum idle and go with it. You might have some drivability issues under some conditions, but otherwise there shouldn't be many ill effects.

Agreed, you should be able to run ok with the AIS disconnected, especially if you have a stick car and no A/C, but it sounds like all you really need to do is to follow the AIS adjustment proceedure outlined in the 2.2/FWD book.

If you don't have this I can find it and scan it for ya.

[1FastCSX289]

Its kind of interesting how well they run without the AIS MOTOR (not sensor.....this is an actuator/output device and wont set a code). I dont run one on my charger and the thing idles like a champ....starts right up and down to about 35 degrees I dont even have to touch the gas to keep it idling. When it gets real cold, I have to blip the throttle a half dozen times right after start up to keep it idling.

[Juggy]

Agreed, you should be able to run ok with the AIS disconnected, especially if you have a stick car and no A/C, but it sounds like all you really need to do is to follow the AIS adjustment proceedure outlined in the 2.2/FWD book.

If you don't have this I can find it and scan it for ya.


that would be great...i thought it was something along the lines of firing up the car, unplug sensor, then adjust to desired RPMs then shut car off and plug back in???


Its kind of interesting how well they run without the AIS MOTOR (not sensor.....this is an actuator/output device and wont set a code). I dont run one on my charger and the thing idles like a champ....starts right up and down to about 35 degrees I dont even have to touch the gas to keep it idling. When it gets real cold, I have to blip the throttle a half dozen times right after start up to keep it idling.

sounds good....yes we experience alot of weather change here, especially when it comes to humidity.

[daver]

I believe all you do is start the car, introduce a decent sized vacuum leak, which will cause the computer to close the AIS all the way, then unplug the AIS, turn the car off, close the vacuum line, plug the AIS back in, restart.

It'll probably stall or at least stumble at first till it learns.

[contraption22]

Yup, that sounds like the proceedure.

[Juggy]

I believe all you do is start the car, introduce a decent sized vacuum leak, which will cause the computer to close the AIS all the way, then unplug the AIS, turn the car off, close the vacuum line, plug the AIS back in, restart.

It'll probably stall or at least stumble at first till it learns.


sounds good, thanks!

[bakes]

I have run with out a ais motor for 20 years (oh how time flies) i can shift the trans faster with it disconnect with no problems.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I take a 46/52 AIS motor and unscrew the plunger. Then I get some Elmer's Polyurethane glue http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/ultimate-polyurethane-glue-4-oz-p-4972.html?ref=42 and fill up the cavity about half full since this stuff expands. Set the TB at an angle so the stuff doesn't run out and let it sit for a couple days to cure. After it's cured I bolt the AIS motor I disassembled earlier and bolt it on.

As far as running in the cold if you can tune your cal if you add some advance when it's cold it'll keep you from having to put your foot on the gas. If you can't tune then it might be a bit cold blooded under about 100 degrees of coolant temp. After that it's great.

This is just on my stick cars. On my Automatic I tune the AIS tables way down so they're at zero for most of them and just have them up a little on the cold settings.

If you want to try this without glueing and hacking up an AIS motor just induce a huge vacuum leak at idle, with the i/c tube pulled off the TB so you can hear when the AIS closes (the sucking sound stops). When it does, unplug it, fix the vac leak and fire the car up, if it doesn't you'll have to adjust the idle screw which is usually under a cover you'll have to drill and pry out. Anyway that'll give you an idea as to what it's like. Although I've found after a week or so the AIS pintle works it's way out and your idle goes up and then hangs up a bit in between shifts. The only permanent way is to do the glue method or weld it shut.

[GLHNSLHT2]

I believe all you do is start the car, introduce a decent sized vacuum leak, which will cause the computer to close the AIS all the way, then unplug the AIS, turn the car off, close the vacuum line, plug the AIS back in, restart.

It'll probably stall or at least stumble at first till it learns.

No you need to set the idle with the adjustment screw with the motor unplugged and the car running, then turn the car back off and plug the ais motor back in.

[GLHNSLHT2]

right! TPS that is what i meant sorry.

ok dont run w/o the TPS.

:-)

hahah too funny.

[t3rse]

I've never run an AIS, but I've also always ran a standalone. I drilled a 1/16 hole in the blade for air to go through and epoxied the port shut. Idled quite smooth but took a little throttle work to get her started.

[GLHNSLHT2]

why drill a hole? Just screw the adjustment screw that holds the blade open in some more. With the programming right it should start and idle just fine at 900rpms cold or hot.

[t3rse]

it is much easier to get fine adjustment with the little hole, and i never bothered to dial in the cold starts...2.4 in there now with a 75mm tb and a hole fires up with zero effort at any temp (down to about 20* F which is as cold as I've been able to tune for down here) and levels after two revolutions