1997 Neon Sport Coupe TIME! (Lots of pictures)

[Dodge Aries K]

I don't think there's much information I've given about this car. I've owned it for over a year now and it's gone through a few different changes...

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/IMAGE_106.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/IMAGE_134.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/IMAGE_130.jpg

Way back when I first got the car. It already had some interesting stuff done to it when I got it... the head was milled .040" of an inch and it had a three angle valve job performed with some mild head porting which made it quicker than the stock DOHC Neon I had at the time. Stock ugly multicolored seats and such. I put a ported and polished intake manifold, 52mm tb, and a Mopar Performance PCM on it and was suprised what a difference that made. Was my first faster Neon and I was impressed and wanted to see what else they could do.

Here's a video of the car after the Mopar PCM but before the ported intake manifold...
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/?action=view&current=VIDEO_022.flv

Then I got concerned about comfort... got these...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1103.jpg

Then since my --- was comfy started thinking about making it faster again... did some research and got this...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/IMAGE_178.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/IMAGE_176.jpg

and then installed it and this 2.5" mandrel bent system...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1406.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1408.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1402.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1401.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1400.jpg

Believe me, not proud of the fart cannon look but it is hollow inside so it's basically like running a straight pipe from the header all the way to the back of the car. No cat, no muffler... the car is LOUD. The header is an OBX motorsports stainless steel long tube unit that does it's job well. Of course, took a video of it at that point in time... you can see how improving the intake and exhaust makes a BIG difference on the engine...
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/?action=view&current=VIDEO_036.flv

After running around like this for a while the car sat for a bit as I got fustrated with many things and was contemplating on selling it as well as my other cars I had here... when I sold my silver Neon sedan I decided that was enough of that and then upgraded this car yet again... Leather TIME!
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1751.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1750.jpg

Sweet... so now it's fast AND kind of luxurious all in one!

Then I found a gutted ACR Neon on the org then for $700 a while back! Went down to pick it up, stripped it of some things, and resold it for $750 a few days later. Free upgrades for the Sport Coupe! Now I had... for free... an AFX Race PCM, Maddog short throw shifter, and a 3.0 CAI! Can't complain about free upgrades, that's for sure. I also got a set of solid steel motor and transmission mounts custom made by a guy named Patrick Moran on the org for the car.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1749.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF1748.jpg

Only have a kind of crappy video of it at that point... cell phone camera plus unfavorable testing area...
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/?action=view&current=VIDEO_044.flv

Over the winter I wanted to tackle the body issues with the car... mainly the rear bumper that was damaged before I bought it. I was presented with this garbage...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2073.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2072.jpg
Ouch... :(

Getting the bumper off the car was hell... but after cutting it like surgery it came off...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2124.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2123.jpg

To be continued in the next post since it says only 20 pictues per post...

[Dodge Aries K]

Sledgehammer got to work... and I eventually ended up with this...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2126.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2125.jpg

Not too bad, eh? Too bad I still have to deal with some rust on the strut towers. When I got the bumper back together I put the 01 R/T wheels I got for the car on it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2130.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2132.jpg

The car sat in that spot until the snow and salt went away and then she came out to play! A buddy of mine installed a Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley on the car before it came back out for the spring season. After driving it a few times I realized that it's pretty much uninhabitable for any length of distance unless you like the deafening engine noise and vibrations in the cabin. So... decided to really get serious about making it a fast, light, nimble car that would excell for autocross or road rallye.

Lightening of the car was next in line...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2393.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2392.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2391.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2390.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2402.jpg

Yeah buddy! All that stuff I pulled out weighed close to 150 pounds... didn't realize the rear seat back was so damn heavy as well as how much all the carpeting crap weighed. I do need to reinstall the hood light though... not having it sucks for checking fluids when it's not light outside.

However, I don't want to leave my leather front seats in the car since they need to be saved for another car that will have a rear seat in it as well as an interior... so I got these from NeonGTS in Belvidere.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2400.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2401.jpg

1995 Sport Sedan front seats in very good shape... as a bonus they weigh like 10 pounds lighter per seat than the 2nd gen leather seats I had in the car!

I took the car on a short ride today to compare it to how it was before and wow does removing that stuff make a BIG difference! I'm very pleased at the outcome of it thus far.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2403.jpg

I really need to clean the engine bay up as much as I can. I know some more things under the hood need to go away that have to do with emissions trash but the a/c and p/s stay. Also need to fix a pesky valve cover gasket leak once I get a new valve cover painted for the car.

Still have a lot of work to do before Neons 2009... stay tuned!

[glhs875]

That thing runs pretty good! I like it!

[turboshadow]

Nice! im with you on the rear seats I didnt realize they were so heavy until I took it out to put some new speakers in:confused:

[SebringLX]

Ugh, can't see photoshop from work... just bring the car by Rockford Memorial around 4:30 and I'll check it out in person. :P

[WickedShelby88]

Looking good! Glad to see your able to do more with it. Far better than it getting parted. I'm really impressed with what you've been able to do with it. Those R/T wheels are the s--t! I bet it sounds pretty health with all that work and a good exhaust. Now all you need to do is upgrade the suspension.. I noticed those rear control arms are getting kinda crusty. You know I could make you a set of adjustable arms at work for you. Keep up the good work:thumb:

[neongary]

Poly bushings everywhere! You'll notice a nice difference in feel and handling. Energy Suspension makes a complete set. It's a bit of work, but I never regretted putting them in on my ole '98 R/T.

[fleckster]

I still have all the stock suspension (hey, it's still good with only 52000 miles on it) on mine but I put the '01 R/T wheels on mine back in '01.

Here's a quick video of me doing a quicky burnout before a run at the local 1/8th mile strip.

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/671/Neon_at_the_strip_1.mpg

[Dodge Aries K]

A poly bushing kit is on my things to do list for the car, that's for sure. Paul's NYG has been staying here for a bit so I could get it to run better and since he hates the firm ride the struts and springs between this car and his car will be swapped. His has extra high rate springs I believe and my car has (newer) standard issue highline suspension. I also have a rear sway bar to add to my car which is so desperately needs.

Besides swapping the struts and throwing on the rear sway, first up is getting and installing some Crower 3/4 race cams with the crower valve springs into the car.

Joe, I'll try to get a set of rear control arms from a junkyard Neon as a template for you... some nice not rusty looking adjustable rear links would be amazing! I'm glad I stuck with this car... it's turning out to be a lot better than I thought.

Don't know what progress will happen on the car this weekend but depending on the weather I do plan on doing at least SOMETHING to it... probably some engine bay cleanup and more sound deadening removal. Thanks again everyone for the kind words about the car. :)

[blk86trbo]

Yeah Karl, definitely a cool Neon...even though both of my retina's are detached from the violent drivetrain vibration and exhaust resonating inside the cabin at speed LOL :D

[Dodge Aries K]

You liked it and you know it Paul. Next time you're here we'll have to take it for a ride again... it's a lot louder and vibrates a lot more than it did when you rode in it. :)

[fleckster]

Have you ever had it to the track? Based on the mods that you have done to it, I'd guess around 15.0 but it could turn out to be even quicker! I'm basing it on another I know of with similar mods. (no higher compression but it did have a Steve Menagon ported head and Crane Cam.) My Neon has the auto throttle body, Mopar ECM, and AFx Underdrive Pulley. I haven't run it in the quarter (I've always taken the other turbo cars!) but it has run a 10.01 in the eighth mile. I'd bet yours would kill mine. I'll probably make a couple passes at the SDAC-OVC Spring Fling in just over a week. Does yours have the 3.94 diff or the 3.55? Mine really lays down in 3rd gear. I don't know why. 1st and 2nd pull hard, but it just seems to fall on its face when I shift into 3rd. I really like the 16" R/T wheels on the 1st Gens! Nice choice!

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/562/medium/MVC-281F.JPG
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/562/medium/MVC-195F.JPG

[Dodge Aries K]

I've never taken it racing yet. It's first race (and the first time I've ever actually drag raced) will be at Neons 2009. The car has the 3.94 tranny but since it's not an ACR or an R/T it has the better overdrive 5th gear for fuel economy... wish I had the other transmission that doesn't.

I wish I had your Neon... I love the way it looks and that intense blue color is beautiful... but if I had it I wouldn't be doing what I did to this one though. ;) As for the falling on itself in 3rd gear, my car did that before I swapped out the intake manifold with one that my buddy ported out and polished inside. My car has outgrown it though so I need a new intake manifold and a 60MM throttle body once I get my cams for it.

[WickedShelby88]

Definitely get some arms that are good for a template and some closer pics of the control arms to the rears knuckles so I can see how they are setup. I wouldn't want to make something that doesn't work just because its adjustable. From what I can tell an eccentric in the body where they bolt up would be great for camber and toe adjust at the arms or just be able to do it all at the arms.. Either way I guess I could easily improve over the stockers.

[Dodge Aries K]

Well, got a chance to run it hard again... didn't think to bring the camera with me though.

It'll peg the speedometer in 4th gear before hitting the redline (little over 120MPH at I believe 7200 RPM)... and it gets there pretty fast. Sure made the suspension and brakes seem useless going that fast... stock stuff at that speed makes the car feel like a boat and even lightly applying the brakes to help slow it down makes them smell. I still have rear drums on it too :( There will be a rear disc conversion in the somewhat near future for certain with ceramic brake pads all the way around.

Once the suspension gets swapped and the car gains a rear sway bar we'll try that again with a video.

Luckily I'll be saying good riddance to the beat up 95 NYG Neon Coupe on Monday so that opens up more room so I can get my car in and out of the garage again and get some more work done for it.

[Matt86]

Yeah Karl, definitely a cool Neon...even though both of my retina's are detached from the violent drivetrain vibration and exhaust resonating inside the cabin at speed LOL :D

Hehehe...yes, I suffered from the commute to the SDAC March meeting...couldn't feel anything from...well...anything...:D

But it's still an awesome machine...I got to drive it and boy I tell you what...the noises and vibrations go away when you floor it...;)

[TurboRon25]

If you are going to do a 120 mph video, DO IT WITHOUT THE REAR BAR!


Ron

[neongary]

You will have fun with this car. There are still loads of aftermarket go-fast parts for it. My mods were mainly a Iceman intake, Rhino cat-back exhaust, Konis with MP 1" lowering springs and the export tail lights. I thought the tail lights were cool because very few people were able to get them.
Looks good and keep up the good work.

[Dodge Aries K]

Now why would I want to run it without the rear sway bar?

Your old R/T looks nice neongary. If I ever do another Neon project but to make it a nice car for driving and crusing I'd love to get my hands on a bunch of the european parts.

[bakes]

If you get a chance to pull the head and port the valve pockets they suck bad for factory , it really wakes the n/a motor up.

[Dodge Aries K]

I think that was done when the headwork was done on the car... not 100% sure.

[WickedShelby88]

Luckily I'll be saying good riddance to the beat up 95 NYG Neon Coupe on Monday so that opens up more room so I can get my car in and out of the garage again and get some more work done for it.


So did you sell the NYG or is it getting turned into soup cans?

[Dodge Aries K]

This is actually the second time I've sold it and the last. Sold it for $1000... as it sits not running with no transmission or anything... guess the guy wanted it really bad. I didn't want to screw with it and it became a nuisance since it is blocking my garage and making me angry. Plus, even though it's a sweet color, it's in a lot worse shape rustwise than the 97... and the 97 already runs and drives perfect.

[WickedShelby88]

Sounds like whoever is buying it plans on fixing it for sure cause for 1k you sure in the heck won't be parting it and making anything. You can always find a clean one and do a complete resto recolor. After all most 1st gens are going to need paint anyways by now. I do see some pretty clean ones at the lots from time to time but they want way too much. Good luck on this car. It seems better every time.

[Dodge Aries K]

That's their plan I guess. I figure someday down the road I'll buy an already fixed up NYG from the south so it doesn't have rust on it.

What I do know is part of that money is buying this car new cams and a poly bushing set for the chassis... and the rest going to pay off debt. Win win!

[Dodge Aries K]

Good progress today! Greg and Vinnie came out today to do some strut swapping and to take Vinnie's car (the Neon I sold him) home.

Paul's NYG losing it's struts and springs...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2407.jpg

My car gaining them... and giving it's OLD MAN RIDE equipment to Paul's car.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2408.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/DSCF2406.jpg
KYB GR-2's and super stiff springs... I think they were Mopar extra high rates... not sure to be honest...

Took the car for a quick spin around the abandoned mall thing... all I have to say is WOW. This thing rides so damn hard now and sticks to the road like glue. I just need to add the rear sway bar, a front and rear strut tower bar, and put a prothane bushing kit in the car and the suspension work will be complete.

Oh yeah...
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Naru%20NYG%20Neon/DSCF2410.jpg
Bye car! Thank goodness I have my driveway space back... especially since Paul's car gets to finally go home too now that the struts have been swapped.

Now... gotta get my cams for the car... Woo!

[WickedShelby88]

GR2's are kinda stiff. My van loves them though. It doesn't bottom out anymore!

[Dodge Aries K]

Stiff suspension is the name of the game with this car. With the high rate springs it rides super stiff.

[WickedShelby88]

They have replaceable cartridges too from what I understand making them serviceable as well. The box mine came in claimed a lifetime warranty on the struts that is. Do you have matching rears as well? Neon's are nice because they are new enough that there is still quite the aftermarket offering for them although I think it also has to do with the aftermarket in general. The 2.0 is a revving machine. Remember that turbo 2.0 2nd we rode in... That was nuts..

[neongary]

They have replaceable cartridges too from what I understand making them serviceable as well. The box mine came in claimed a lifetime warranty on the struts that is. Do you have matching rears as well? Neon's are nice because they are new enough that there is still quite the aftermarket offering for them although I think it also has to do with the aftermarket in general. The 2.0 is a revving machine. Remember that turbo 2.0 2nd we rode in... That was nuts..
They don't have "cartridges" to replace. Just a plane ole strut assembly, similar to the fronts of all the Turbo Mopars of the 80's.

[WickedShelby88]

I didn't try to take it apart. I was just going off the disclaimer on the box. So I guess you just exchange the whole thing if you can prove you were the original purchaser.

[Dodge Aries K]

My car has the GR2 struts front and rear with the high rate springs. As for a warranty... I'll have to look into that... Maybe Paul has paperwork on it still?

And you should see that turbo 2nd gen now... how it was then is slow compared to how it is now. That car is nuts! If you come out the Byron for the Neons 2009 drag racing you'll see how quick that sucker is now. It's absolutely insane.

[WickedShelby88]

I will check it out for sure. I could already tell that guy was serious then.

[TurboRon25]

Now why would I want to run it without the rear sway bar?

"Sure made the suspension and brakes seem useless going that fast"



You really don't want to add any "tail-happyness" at 120mph.
Stability (understeer) will let you do it again someday.

My recomendation is to use the best tires you can get. If you are driving 50, stand on the brakes and all the tires lock up, that's probably not the tires you want to save your a$$ at a buck20. Of course if it's a nice straight road like 90, your chances are better.

Ron

[Dodge Aries K]

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/LoudCar.jpg

Safety equipment... earplugs are required. This car is THAT loud.

4th gear pull for your enjoyment!
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e92/teamaenoy/Minako%20the%20Sport%20Coupe/?action=view&current=4thgearpull.flv

Got more work to be done on it... I picked up my Vitor air dam from Ron today and will be installing that sometime soon.

Stay tuned... more coming soon!

[Dodge Aries K]

Took the car out today for some fun and excitement. She's running awesome and is a lot of fun.

http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/mwtstormchaser/?action=view&current=Picture015.flv

http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd110/mwtstormchaser/?action=view&current=Picture016.flv

[Dodge Aries K]

Subaru Shootout/Neons 2009 drag racing... the car got one pass down at 15.444 in the 1/4 mile. The second pass I broke a cv shaft and after replacing it I took it back home. She's parked now for a while.

[blk86trbo]

Subaru Shootout/Neons 2009 drag racing... the car got one pass down at 15.444 in the 1/4 mile. The second pass I broke a cv shaft and after replacing it I took it back home. She's parked now for a while.

Hey Karl what was your MPH?

[Dodge Aries K]

It was something like 89.5. I have to find the slip to make sure.

[Sgt Craig]

That sure is loud for a 15sec car.

[Dodge Aries K]

Stock cams don't let it do what it needs to do as well as it should... :(

[TurboRon25]

That sure is loud for a 15sec car.

At this point I don't think the car would loose anything with an 'almost identical to a stock DOHC' Dynomax.
Even after cams I don't think it would loose more than maybe 3 hp (if that) with a good muffler.

The only thing that might be lost is the attention of the law.

It's a fun car but geeze is it loud. It's all about personal taste but I don't know if it's a good loud. ...and I like loud cars.

Ron

[Dodge Aries K]

Eh, doesn't matter. It's locked in the garage for god knows how long... maybe for a few years... maybe forever until it gets sold/parted. Who knows at this point in time.

I got a lot of comments at the strip from both Subaru and Neon people telling me that the car sounds good and they were suprised what it ran for what it is. Remember it's a 2.0L with no forced induction and the stock weak --- cams. Plus, it doesn't need to be quiet as it's built to be a race car, not an everyday driver. It was also spinning the tires down the track after launching so I'm sure that didn't help either.

Main thing, it's my car and I like the fact that it's unbearably loud so that's how it's going to stay.

[TurboRon25]

Why is it locked in the garage?
Was it bad?

Ron

[Dodge Aries K]

It's locked in the garage as it's in storage. I'm done playing with it until my debt is gone.

[Sgt Craig]

Stock cams don't let it do what it needs to do as well as it should... :(


You dont need stock cams to go fast and have fun.Ive gone 14.3's with stock cams through a paceshitter,cat and stock exhaust.Seriously keep it simple.

[Sgt Craig]

Eh, doesn't matter. It's locked in the garage for god knows how long... maybe for a few years... maybe forever until it gets sold/parted. Who knows at this point in time.

I got a lot of comments at the strip from both Subaru and Neon people telling me that the car sounds good and they were suprised what it ran for what it is. Remember it's a 2.0L with no forced induction and the stock weak --- cams. Plus, it doesn't need to be quiet as it's built to be a race car, not an everyday driver. It was also spinning the tires down the track after launching so I'm sure that didn't help either.

Main thing, it's my car and I like the fact that it's unbearably loud so that's how it's going to stay.


Just remeber Ive been there and done that with neons.

[Jack's Dodge]

From the pics, it looked like there is not catalytic converter? That is certain contributing to that ridiculous amount of noise coming from the car. Perhaps your turbo ways have blinded you, but the n/a engine needs some exhaust restriction. The Sgt is quite right. I'd would skip the cams and get a ebay udp ($40) as your next modification, when and if finances permit. But cork up that exhaust some. Having that back pressure will give you more low end momentum to carry to the mid-high end. Hope things get better for you.

[Dodge Aries K]

It has an unorthodox racing underdrive pulley already. The "muffler" had some restriction thing in it and the car ran better without it so it's gone.

[WickedShelby88]

Doesn't Paul have a head with some hot cams in it?

[blk86trbo]

Doesn't Paul have a head with some hot cams in it?

Shhhhhhhh...;)

[Dodge Aries K]

Yeah, he does. LOL.

[SebringLX]

I feel your pain Karl. If something like that happend to my car right now, it'd be doomed to sit in the garage for a while too. Maybe next year we'll both be better off financially and we can find a local SCCA event to terrorize with our loud 4 cylinder Mopars. :D

[Dodge Aries K]

Let's hope so. Over the winter I'll be spending some quality time with the car fixing it up a bit more.

[Sgt Craig]

Here's what you need Karl.

AFX Race ECU,mopar wont be enough.
Solid FMM and rear bobble,filled sides arent a bad idea either
Iceman
Paceshitter or long Tube
ported DOHC Intake if you can find a DCR one great if not I have well detailed Instructions on how to do it yourself
Bored TB,60 might help but Its not what I had
Descent clutch,I cant remeber what I was running but it was probally a PT
Stock Exhaust or Dynomax
DSS Axles or plenty of Spares
Slicks 22x8 (I had light wheels bogarts i believe,it was quite some time ago)
I had coilovers but i think a set of Konis or cheap coliovers would be fine
Last thing is Skill which takes alot of practice.
With that Setup in a 97 ACR with fullinterior through the Exhaust I went 14.31@91MPH Consistently, with some weight reduction 13's may have been possible.But 14.5-14.7's would be very doable.

[Dodge Aries K]

Okay, out of that list I have...
AFX Race ECU (7800 RPM version)
Solid steel mounts in all locations
OBX long tube header (with 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system)
Ported and polished stock intake... need to upgrade that though
It has Mopar extra high rate springs on GR-2 struts

The car also has most of the interior removed, an unorthodox racing UDP, 3.0 CAI, and an 52mm tb instead of the 48 which is another bottleneck. I have adjustable cam gears here for it too since the head has been milled down I can actually get the cams set properly again. Not sure what clutch is in the car but I know it's pretty new and works fine. New axles would be something I really need for it.

I noted when I went down the track the car spun the tires a lot of the time. I guess 52 PSI wasn't a good idea to leave in there... oops... Traction was the biggest issue I had though... that and the lack of skill.

[Sgt Craig]

Okay, out of that list I have...
AFX Race ECU (7800 RPM version)
Solid steel mounts in all locations
OBX long tube header (with 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system)
Ported and polished stock intake... need to upgrade that though
It has Mopar extra high rate springs on GR-2 struts

The car also has most of the interior removed, an unorthodox racing UDP, 3.0 CAI, and an 52mm tb instead of the 48 which is another bottleneck. I have adjustable cam gears here for it too since the head has been milled down I can actually get the cams set properly again. Not sure what clutch is in the car but I know it's pretty new and works fine. New axles would be something I really need for it.

I noted when I went down the track the car spun the tires a lot of the time. I guess 52 PSI wasn't a good idea to leave in there... oops... Traction was the biggest issue I had though... that and the lack of skill.

Port the Intake.It makes a huge difference Here's the instructions Ive had from Steve Kalesia from 99.Steve is a old school Neon guy.He had a wicked and cleanest 96 ACR back in the day.Now has a 10 sec auto Supra


Here are the instructions on how to port the intake manifold your
self. You will need the following tools and supplies: T/b to lower
plenum rubber o-ring seal, lower plenum to upper plenum gasket, some
rtv silicone (high temp) and upper plenum to cylinder head gasket, a
decent socket set, patience, water, coolant, a dremel with extension
and all the sanding grinding attachments, washing supplies, and that
is about it.

Before you do this modification make sure you have some sort of cold
air set up or you won't see too much, if any, of a gain.

When you are taking your intake manifold off do it in this order and
make sure your motor is cold. Open the drain plug on the radiator
and remove about a quart of coolant or maybe a little more to drain
the intake manifold. Remove the intake plumbing, throttle body
first. make sure you have an extra rubber o-ring for the throttle
body/lower intake plenum first in case the one on there is bad. If
you have a bad memory label all of the parts, it helps, be careful
when removing the injectors/fuel rail and its respective wiring
harness.
When you remove the bolts that hold the intake manifold be sure to be
careful with the two right under the thermostat housing. They are
the most difficult to get to. Once the intake manifold is off and
all sensor's respective wiring is disconnected, go ahead and remove
the MAP sensor located on top of the upper plenum. The bolts are
rather flimsy and break easily, be careful with these.

Now you probably dripped some nasty stuff into your head. check the
valves for dirt and laquer buildup. If they look bad of course wipe
them off along with the entire head ports with a nice clean towel.
If you have build up on the valves it is time for some fuel system
clean up. I recommend SLICK 50 total fuel system cleaner.

Go ahead and clean off the gasket material on the cylinder head.
Unbolt the lower plenum from upper plenum. You will see how bad the
bends are and why the airflow is so bad on these intake manifolds.
Clean off the oil and residue inside with some soap and water. Be
very careful when handling these parts not to drop them or grind the
machined sides. It may mess up the seal.

Now we will start with the lower plenum. You will see lots of
casting flash on the bottom. This can all be removed and smoothed
out to a polished surface. Remove as much material as possible and
try to match it to your new gasket you have. Now look at the hole 90
degrees after the t/b hole. This can be opened up and smoothed out
as much as possible. You are trying to get rid of 90 degree juts and
smoothing them out so that the air has a better path to follow on its
way to the cylinder. The more velocity it has the better throttle
response and horsepower you will get out of it. Now look near the
t/b where the EGR recirculates. This hump can be removed totally.
Don't remove the two humps on the bottom of the lower plenum, they
help direct airflow to cylinders one and two.

Now direct your attention to the upper plenum. Pretty nasty ah. Go
ahead and try to gasket match it to the lower plenum. Do not, Do not
gasket match it to the cylinder head/upper plenum gasket. This will
create a horrible lip at the cylinder head that will really disrupt
airflow into the combustion chamber. The runners is where you make
horsepower. They can be opened up and rounded off almost to the
point where the walls are very thin. If you go thru by mistake get
some J/B weld and fix it. Open up the runners as much as possible
and remove all casting flash and seams you will see. If you take our
finger and feel around the runners you will feel a hump almost that
can be removed. Once they are opened and round with a smooth to the
touch finish, focus on the top end near the cylinder head side.
DOn't
open them since they are already port matched, but smooth out the
insides removing the casting flash and seams like before. You can
remove some of the aluminum near the injector ports as well.

Now you are done. Clean them both up as much as possible. You don't
want aluminum flying into your motor. Now put it back together. I
like to put a small ring of rtv around the coolant port when I put it
back together to prevent the chance of coolant leaking. Put the
coolant back in the radiator and wala-you are done.

This modification along with a CNNP 56mm t/b and a decent cold air
setup (preferrably a Kirk) will yield you close to 20 hp (or more!)
depending on
the application and other mods. Not bad for the money spent. IF you
have anymore ????'s email me. I am tired and need to go to bed.

Steve

[Sgt Craig]

Here's another email from him from way back in 99.Yes he actually weighed some of this stuff.He was that anal about it.

O.k. here are the weights:

SPare tire and jack-31lbs, rear seat(depending on model) 25-35lbs(by cutting out all bracketing I removed 11lbs off of the non split rear seats), trunk carpeting 3lbs, rear seatbelts and motor/spring assembly-11lbs, all wafer sound deadening under carpeting and plastic-27lbs, tar paper under spare, rear seat, and all carpeting-29lbs, glove box-8lbs, weight under center console-5lbs, bar under rear seat (coupe only)-18lbs, rear bumper support-20lbs, lighter battery-12lbs, lighter muffler (borla) 8lbs, lighter wheels (ar-24) 8lbs, carpeting 10lbs, plastic molded inserts in back 9lbs, stereo,speakers -20lbs(depending on model), rear spoiler-8lbs, replace cast exhaust manifold with kirk header 8lbs, replace stock catalytic converter with highflow unit 6lbs, iron dampener in front of motor 4lbs, door skirts-10lbs. dampener in steering wheel 3lbs, floor mats 2lbs, passenger seat 34lbs: 319lbs-297lbs

All of the above will take out and bolt back on. The following will also, but it is more work:

A/C 27lbs, p/s system 18lbs, replace radiator with SOHC non a/c(1994 models only) 12lbs(lighter radiator, one less fan), airbags-16lbs total, aluminum flywheel and underdrive pulley 17lbs, fiberglass hood-15lbs, frt swaybar 6lbs, replace seats with lightweight versions 20lbs total.
142lbs

O.K. some of these I have actually weighed (most). SOme are guestimates. Please email me with questions. Later,

Steve

[WickedShelby88]

I'm guessing an OBX or equivalent isn't mandatory on one of these?

[Sgt Craig]

I'm guessing an OBX or equivalent isn't mandatory on one of these?


A quaiffe was a pipe dream at the time i ran that.I think I had a Phantom grip in it but cant be sure.It would deffinately help.Safing tabs for sure.Over the years i only broke two diffs one in my Red R/T which had 87k(I bought it new) and raced the crap out of it and another in my 2nd 98R/T which had been welded years before the safing tabs.It had almost killed me.Spilt the spider gears at 120MPH and headed hard right for the wall.Scared the living crap out of me.

[Dodge Aries K]

The intake porting thing is very informative. That's what I think the guy did to it that I got it from. I'd like to get a 90-less box intake for it though with a 60MM TB attached to it.

As for the weighs... I refuse to remove anything that deals with safety like the air bags and that big bar that runs under where the rear seat used to be since I do drive the car on the street and it's being built more for autocross than drag racing. It still has a/c and p/s as well and that's staying. However, pretty much all of the interior minus the dashboard and it's parts, front seats, front floor mats, door panels, and sunvisors is gone. There's no spare tire or jack... or anything in the trunk really.

I'd like to get a lightweight (carbon fiber) hood and decklid for the car eventually but that's expensive stuff and I'd want to paint it to match the car instead of standing out like most people leave them as it looks gaudy to me.

As for an OBX/Quaife... too much $$$ for now. Someday maybe as long as it won't interfere with the car's ability to do tight turns at high rate of speeds.