Cone Filter Placement

[Hooty]

Hey all,
So if you are putting a conefilter on to an 89 T1, am I asking for trouble by putting it right on the end of the stock turbo inlet hose that close to the block or is it okay to leave there? I've put mine there (having a hard time finding engine bay space to put it any where else without buying parts to custom fab a CAI from a local parts shop). Any info is great. Thanks.

-Will

[beavis1313]

I used two stock hoses coupled together
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/4374/vanunderhood5ah.jpg

[GLHSKEN]

You can run it right off the inlet.. better thing is to use the stock intake hose and put it over the trans. Believe it or not, The stock box with a K&N works fine up to about 300whp. I've seen a car Dyno 300whp with that. It draws air through the SMEC/SBEC from the front of the car...

[My96z]

I went to autozone and bought some of that flexi exhaust pipe and clamped it on the end of that, you can bend it wherever you want. Mine is just behind the bumper of my van.

Jeff

[Tony Hanna]

You can run it right off the inlet.. better thing is to use the stock intake hose and put it over the trans. Believe it or not, The stock box with a K&N works fine up to about 300whp. I've seen a car Dyno 300whp with that. It draws air through the SMEC/SBEC from the front of the car...

Was it ever determined what limits the stock setup to 300whp?
Is it the smec and plumbing or the airbox itself?
Thanks

[GLHSKEN]

It's actually the intercooler and turbo.

I've seen a stock airbox put down 330whp

[Stratman]

When I put the airbox back on to experiment with some issues, call me a crack head, but spool up suffered tremendously as compared to the huge K&N. It may respond differently to different setups, especially when I was running the huge turbo with the Stage 2 wheel and having flow issues with the head.
In the Daytona I had it located on the end on the stock turbo inlet tube as discussed, but when running temperature tests, I found when the cooling fan came on it blew 200-250 F degrees directly through the filter and was dramatically heating my charge temp (keep in mind the fan comes on under WOT). A heat shield dividing the radiator/engine side from the filter side stopped the hot air issue as seen on turbofreak.com.
In the CSX I drive now, the battery is located in the spare tire sump when I bought it and leaves a beautiful hole for the filter to get nice cool air with no issues (also seen on my website to give you an idea).
Here's a pic in the CSX:
http://www.turbofreak.com/pics_files/csxdone/motorincar2.jpg

[Tony Hanna]

It's actually the intercooler and turbo.

I've seen a stock airbox put down 330whp
I understand that, I was refering to the stock airbox and related plumbing in the event that someone should wish to use one with a different turbo and intercooler. So is 330whp where the stock airbox starts to become a restriction or would you see a noticable gain from a properly placed cone filter at that point?
Thanks

[Tony Hanna]

When I put the airbox back on to experiment with some issues, call me a crack head, but spool up suffered tremendously as compared to the huge K&N. It may respond differently to different setups, especially when I was running the huge turbo with the Stage 2 wheel and having flow issues with the head.


Any idea what power level you were at when you did this?
Thanks

[8valves]

I would go on a limb and say totally unscientifically that when getting into your larger compressors that a proper intake is a good measure. Unless you're a hardcore street racer trying to hide everything I don't see why you wouldn't run some nice 3" or 4" piping up front to get some cool air.

If you get a TO4E or B cover with the 3" inlet, as used to run, then I wouldn't want a nasty crinkly 2" tube feeding it. Does my un-scientific example make sense?

Aaron Miller

[GLHSKEN]

Agreed Totally agree. The car I mentioned was FAR above most peoples power levels and it looked almost stock underhood.

[8valves]

Agreed Totally agree. The car I mentioned was FAR above most peoples power levels and it looked almost stock underhood.

Haha, badas$! My kinda' car! Ken I'll probably be giving you a call later this evening, just a heads up :)

Aaron Miller

[BadAssPerformance]

On a G-body, it's easy to put the Cone out front in tho cooler air... Click here to see how I do it (http://www.badassperformance.com/mtech/ramair.html)

[Stratman]

Any idea what power level you were at when you did this?
Thanks

The dyno told me 220 HP 250 FT

[GLHNSLHT2]

Going from just the stock T1 mitsu hose I was using on my car with no filter setup on the end of it running 99MPH to a 3" mandrel bent setup with a cone filter on it still sucking hot air the car went 100MPH in the 1/2 for the 1st time ever at that boost level (12psi) I haven't gotten back out to the track with it boxed in and getting full cold air but the inlet temps went from around 130 down to abient of 70 degrees when I boxed it in.

[Stratman]

The dyno told me 220 HP 250 FT

Something I forgot. I also needed to state that I did this test using a paper OEM filter due to some arguments on TurboDodge at the time, stating that the paper filter holds no restrictions as compared to an open element filter which proved to be wrong in my case. The 220 HP was with the stock air box and paper filter installed.

[Tony Hanna]

That's some really good information guys. After reading this, I think I'll go with the cone filter, but mount it out in front of the radiator so it can take advantage of the cooler air. When I put together both of the daytonas I just had a cone filter on the end of the stock hose right over the trans.
Thanks,

[Tony Hanna]

On a G-body, it's easy to put the Cone out front in tho cooler air... Click here to see how I do it (http://www.badassperformance.com/mtech/ramair.html)

JT,

I did something very similar on my last Daytona with a TI radiator in order to make a gap to run the IC plumbing through. I had intended to run the intake plumbing through the same way, but the trans died before I got that far.
Out of curiosity, have you ever tried something like that on one with AC?
I'm curious to know if there is enough room and flex in the hoses to move the condenser over to make a gap. The Sundance still has all it's AC components and even a little pressure left in the system. If I can run the plumbing and keep the AC, I'd like to.:)
Thanks,

[BadAssPerformance]

JT,

I did something very similar on my last Daytona with a TI radiator in order to make a gap to run the IC plumbing through. I had intended to run the intake plumbing through the same way, but the trans died before I got that far.
Out of curiosity, have you ever tried something like that on one with AC?
I'm curious to know if there is enough room and flex in the hoses to move the condenser over to make a gap. The Sundance still has all it's AC components and even a little pressure left in the system. If I can run the plumbing and keep the AC, I'd like to.:)
Thanks,

I have not with AC, but it should be do-able.

[rbryant]

I am working on using an airbox from another car instead of going with the cone.

Some of the idea was inspired by www.autospeed.com:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2537/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0542/article.html
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2154/article.html

The articles are incomplete if you don't have a subscription. I pay about $20 a year for the subscription. They also had a special a while back where you get all of the past articles for around $20-25.

I am currently looking at ~90 pontiac bonneville airboxes (also used on some buicks). They are a little shallow but have a big cheap ($6-$7) paper filter with a velocity funnel inlet and 3" outlet. I think that it will fit without a problem and we can even cut the intake tube on it in half and extend it to get cold air from the front of the car. I looked at a lot of cars and this one looks the best to me.

I guess I just like the known filtration of a big paper filter and the ability to keep water out of the intake better with an airbox.


-Rich

[Stratman]

That's some really good information guys. After reading this, I think I'll go with the cone filter, but mount it out in front of the radiator so it can take advantage of the cooler air. When I put together both of the daytonas I just had a cone filter on the end of the stock hose right over the trans.
Thanks,

On a daily driver, make sure you place it where it won't suck up water. On a 87-88 G-body you can mount it closer to the top of the nose and water should be far away from it.

[Tony Hanna]

Thanks, that's the plan. I'm working on a P-body, but it still shouldn't be bad to do. If it looks like water is going to be a problem, I'll probably build a splash guard for it.
Thanks Again,

[turbovanman²]

Personally, having it in the engine compartment costs power by sucking in hot air. At the track with the element under the hood, after a run, the air intake tubing would be very hot. I built a custom cold air box and notched the hood to get ram air and cold air in, drop 2/10s in the 1/4 and now, the air filter tube is cold after a run.