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Anonymous_User
02-26-2009, 02:43 AM
2.5 CB with early neon DOHC head. FWD cam gears and belt.

Do I need a certain tensioner or will the stock one work? Thought maybe I heard I need a tall deck tensioner.

ARP head studs - torque specs?

Finally, for head oiling, do most run an adjustable flow control valve to restrict flow to the head or a fixed orifice restriction? If fixed, what size?

dds78910
02-26-2009, 02:51 AM
Sorry to barge in, but I have another question to add. On all the site I have looked at I dont see anything about the head to block dowl pins. Are the holes the same in the neon head as the 8v head cause I didnt notice them on my neon head I have.

86turboz
02-26-2009, 02:57 AM
I believe most people put a fixed orifice restrictor in the line....I think they just use the one from the block....I cant find the post on the other site that mentioned it

SoCalCSX
02-26-2009, 03:44 AM
Sorry to barge in, but I have another question to add. On all the site I have looked at I dont see anything about the head to block dowl pins. Are the holes the same in the neon head as the 8v head cause I didnt notice them on my neon head I have.


They are different from 8v to 16v neon and you use the neon ones for the hybrid.

dds78910
02-26-2009, 04:40 AM
So do I drill holes in the block to match up the neon head pins?

t3rse
02-26-2009, 11:53 AM
the dowels are 15mm and go in the corner head bolt holes, you will need a 15mm bit

dds78910
02-26-2009, 02:49 PM
So it's right next to the corner head bolt?

t3rse
02-26-2009, 03:45 PM
no it is around the corner bolt holes, like a sleeve...the bolt runs through the dowel

dds78910
02-26-2009, 04:11 PM
I see, so I drill the matching corner hole big enough and deep enough for the sleeve to fit.

1985ShlbyChrger
02-26-2009, 04:58 PM
I didn't use any dowels. The head studs kept the gasket and head lined up.

Pat
02-26-2009, 05:33 PM
the dowels are 15mm and go in the corner head bolt holes, you will need a 15mm bit

Why not use the block dowels on the end and drill the head? Without looking at it or knowing why you shouldn't do it that way, it seems like it would be easier.

t3rse
02-26-2009, 06:25 PM
that would be the easiest way I would imagine...but if my memory serves, there was an issue going that direction...it's been a while since I looked at a head, I'll check the 420a in the garage and see if I remember why

edit: found this pic...keep in mind you will have to modify (drill holes in) the HG to use the stock dowels (the reason I remember there being an issue with that method)...note the corner bolt holes

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t27/moparfreak3/Hybrid%20pictures/IMG_0191.jpg

Anonymous_User
02-27-2009, 01:35 PM
2.5 CB with early neon DOHC head. FWD cam gears and belt.

Do I need a certain tensioner or will the stock one work? Thought maybe I heard I need a tall deck tensioner.

ARP head studs - torque specs?


Bump for original questions. :D

88_pacifica
02-27-2009, 02:37 PM
Bump for original questions. :D

^^ HA!!! They totally "thread hacked" :nod: :D

86turboz
02-27-2009, 03:30 PM
Bump for original questions. :D

You will need to use the tensioner off of a per-cb 2.5 tall block and then you will want to it it down a little to improve the belt track

dds78910
02-27-2009, 03:40 PM
Bump for original questions. :D

Sorry about that.:D

Nemesismachine
02-27-2009, 03:58 PM
I just measured 1/2 of the pin, stuffed the hole with a cotton ball, and used a dremel and bored out the hole for the pin to fit.

Anonymous_User
02-28-2009, 02:24 AM
You will need to use the tensioner off of a per-cb 2.5 tall block and then you will want to it it down a little to improve the belt track

Tall block tensioner, and do WHAT with it???!!??

86turboz
02-28-2009, 03:26 AM
Tall block tensioner, and do WHAT with it???!!??

Sorry, my mind thinks a hell of a lot faster than I type...you have to machine it down a little to make sure the timing belt tracks properly. I hacve not gotten to that part yet, so I cant give a step by step, I am just going off of memry because the site that I used to do my research on is now 404-Not Found...lol

whywoody
03-01-2009, 12:07 AM
I used a tall block tensioner,and flipped it around to get the idler closer to the block.I then shimmed it out a little to get the right alignment.It is made from tough material,and I had a hard time grinding it down,which is why I flipped it.I also mounted it lower than stock,from memory it's now where there was a stud that the ps pump bracket mounted to.I also use a longer ps pump belt to roll the pump away from the manifold.If you use the stock ps belt,it may rub on the timing belt tensioner when placed where I have it,as the pump will be slightly higher.

The tall block tensioner is smaller in diameter,and allows you to just barely get away with the t249 belt.....it's on the tight side with the minimum adjustment.I would really like to use a longer belt with less tension and add another idler or 2,as the belt dosen't wrap the cam gears very well.Never had a problem though...

I also ground the block for the neon dowel's as I didn't want to modify the mls headgasket.As for the oiling,I made a restrictor the same size as our 8v restrictor,an 1/8th drill bit rings a bell but would have to dig through some old notes to be sure.I have done alot of klm's with this engine now,and have had the cams out several times,with no sign of oil starvation to the journals.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2137502

86turboz
03-01-2009, 03:07 AM
I used a tall block tensioner,and flipped it around to get the idler closer to the block.I then shimmed it out a little to get the right alignment.It is made from tough material,and I had a hard time grinding it down,which is why I flipped it.I also mounted it lower than stock,from memory it's now where there was a stud that the ps pump bracket mounted to.I also use a longer ps pump belt to roll the pump away from the manifold.If you use the stock ps belt,it may rub on the timing belt tensioner when placed where I have it,as the pump will be slightly higher.

The tall block tensioner is smaller in diameter,and allows you to just barely get away with the t249 belt.....it's on the tight side with the minimum adjustment.I would really like to use a longer belt with less tension and add another idler or 2,as the belt dosen't wrap the cam gears very well.Never had a problem though...

I also ground the block for the neon dowel's as I didn't want to modify the mls headgasket.As for the oiling,I made a restrictor the same size as our 8v restrictor,an 1/8th drill bit rings a bell but would have to dig through some old notes to be sure.I have done alot of klm's with this engine now,and have had the cams out several times,with no sign of oil starvation to the journals.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2137502

So if you had to/could do it again is there anything that you would do differently?

whywoody
03-02-2009, 12:42 AM
I would look at using all the timing belt gears,pulleys,and belt from the neon.I know I would have to have some pieces machined to do this,but I think it might be worth it in the long run.
I would have my oil drains dump into the block,rather than the pan.I don't seem to have drain problems,but I think it would be a bit neater and easier with pan removal.The hose I used for drains is over kill,bulky and difficult to work with (but FREE for me),so next time I would look at something smaller in OD,and possibly from hard pipe with flex/hose ends.
The distributor is a ----- to get at..and I had to get at it alot in the early days of it running.Often wonder about building a typical short runner large plenumb piece to try,mostly for distributor access,as it seems to go fine with the stock startus intake and TB.
If using the stratus intake and therefore a oil filter relocation kit,I would buy a kit with an adapter that has the oil line fittings that run straight down (parrallel to the front of the block).I bought one that has these fittings pointing straight out from the block,and it's really tight with the bottom of the intake plenumb.
I would also have a larger fitting somewhere in the block for venting crankcase pressure.Mines not bad,but the small diameter hole creates an increas of blow by air speed as it passes out of the block.This I believe drags the heavier oil out with it,but if the hole was larger,air speed would be lower and the oil would drop out before the vent.....I think lol!

Really though,nothing has given me trouble design wise,just somethings are a little inconvenient to work with etc.

86turboz
03-02-2009, 01:19 AM
just curious...do you have any progress/build-up pics that you could send me...I am about to start the nitty gritty with mine and I am trying to look at as many different pics as possible to decide on what I think is the best way to get things done...thank you

whywoody
03-03-2009, 01:25 AM
All the pictures I really have are on the cardomain link I posted.

86turboz
03-03-2009, 02:07 AM
woody, you truly have turbo mopar running through your veins...lol. I love the pics

R/T
03-05-2009, 08:51 AM
Why not use the block dowels on the end and drill the head? Without looking at it or knowing why you shouldn't do it that way, it seems like it would be easier.

I did.... Super easy to drill 2 holes in an aluminium head... I used a 2.2 headgasket for a template.

Pat
03-05-2009, 12:37 PM
I did.... Super easy to drill 2 holes in an aluminium head... I used a 2.2 headgasket for a template.

Did you drill a Neon headgasket to use with the 2.2 dowels?

R/T
03-06-2009, 08:45 AM
Did you drill a Neon headgasket to use with the 2.2 dowels?

Not yet, I will soon.

Russ Jerome
03-10-2009, 12:35 AM
Using a leather punch is much easier than trying to drill those MLS
headgaskets, the thin tin gets hung up on the drill bit and wants to
tear easily.