"Top Fuel" Bender omni upgrades

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Just thought I'd start posting up some progress pics of upgrading the omni
Figured it might be easier to remember what I did when as the years fly by
and hopefully give others some ideas for their rides

Guess I'll start with what I'm working on now and if anybody is interested on anything about the rest of the set-up I'll post up on it

The car has run a best of 10.85 , 129 mph, 1.65, 60'
I 1st put this car together back in 1996 with most of the motor work done around 1997
The main problem lately was getting the turbo to spool off the line quickly
Brian Slowe helped me at SDAC-18 finding my cam was 1st off then not really optimal, also talking with Mike Marra led me to a Crane Ignition setup with a 2-step rev. limiter that both made the turbo spool and actually get out of the hole
The biggest issue was the leaky header
Made from staight thinwall stainless tubing, cut into wedges and welded all togther, the flange started off thinner then I wanted and and after warping and resurfacing over the the last 10 or so years has become very brittle and cracks easily
Not good when your adjusting fuel pressure and cam timing when the setup probally isn't work right due to something else causing the problem

As most of you know Turbos Unleashed released their new cast header
It's a stepped design , thick casting with provisions for an external wastegate :thumb:
I'm partial to my external wastegates, set it and forget it, always dead on, works great
plus I run (ran, read ahead) a full TO4E turbo, 1st looking at the manifold I thought this was going to be an easy swap, move the offset Chrysler bolt hole over and the turbo should drop right on the manifold !
at 1st I thought this was a big badass turbo but just found out that it was only a 46trim with an O wheel :confused:
So between the smaller size turbo, the turbine housing is an on-center housing so it hits the intake and I had a TO4E super 50 / T3 stage 2 .63 new sitting on the shelf the upgrade seemed obivous

So hopefully after all this the car should spool quicker
Have more power available throughout
be easier to finally tune properly while be consistently in the 10's :clap2:

I'll post up some pics of the install as I progress

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Of course being being different and not wanting the internally wastegate setup I had to redrill and tap the manifold for the standard T3 bolt pattern
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Tu_Header_5_-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Tu_Header_5_-800.jpg')

One thing for anyone else considering doing this you'll notice the 2 bolt holes on the left are in solid material
the lowerright bolthole has a good 3/4" before breaking into the manifold
the upperright one I'm a little concerned about
at the thinnest it's .25" to a full .40" at the other end of the stud wear it goes into the manifold
using the fine thread (3/8-24) I've got 7 full threads of engagement
I would've liked at least 3/8" of material but after a tlak with Chris and a few others I think I should be o.k.
I'll just have to keep a good eye on it
I cut down the studs, chased the threads then loctited them in, the a quick finish grinding
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P2201201-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P2201201-800.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P2201193-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P2201193-800.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P2201200-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P2201200-800.jpg')

Next was the wastegate port
I drill out a bit of the material just to reduce surfacing time a little
after getting a good idea of where the wastegate would actually be sitting
I marked out the 2 flange bolt holes, again drilling and tapping for 5/16" ( since my exhaust head ports were helicoiled for 5/16") to keep it the same
Bolted on the wastgate flange and machined out the rest of the wastegate hole
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P2111100-800.jpg ('http://www.tur bo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P2111100-800.jpg')

I had Troy (turbojerk) weld up my v-band clamps to my turbo (no more pain the butt bolts to get to)
and a quick short downpipe (ecm O2 and wideband 02 rightaway)

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/turbine_downpipe_by_Troy-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/turbine_downpipe_by_Troy-800.jpg')

Being that I had to be different and not run the swingvalve
my old wastegate wouldn't clear, so why not run the new V-Band Tial I have sitting here
So an adapter was needed, not the best setup but it'll work and better then a swingvalve (I think at least)
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/wastegate_pipe_by_Troy_2_.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/wastegate_pipe_by_Troy_2_.jpg')

When Steve Menegon did my head, we squared off the exhaust ports since I had room in the ports on my homemade header
The TU Cast header has plenty of room in the walls
So instead of grinding the outside of header like i heard others were having to do
I was able to square off the upper corner of the ports
I already clearanced the intake from before without any issues
In the same photo you can see the material that needs to be ground away from the turbine housing for a "port match" to the manifold
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P2201200-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P2201200-800.jpg')

While having the grinder out touched up some of the casting on the outside and then put a flap disc on the rightangle grinder to smooth out the casting just to clean it up a little
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P2201186-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P2201186-800.jpg')

A quick coat of paint (to hold it over till the high temp coating gets here)
and a mock-up of the parts together
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/TU_header_mock-up-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/TU_header_mock-up-800.jpg')

All in all I'm very excited about all this
No more exhaust leaks, faster spooling and hopefully quicker times
The TU Cast Header is everything and more then I expected
The casting is robust, ports are stepped and big enough to support good power, provisions for external wastegate and 4 EGT's, the offset allows for a nice freeflowing downpipe or swingvalve
Yes optimal turbo/wastegate provision, a midget to install the lower nuts, ect.... I want my cake and eat it too
My car ran 10's with the old junk, if it does the same or better I'm happy

Stay tuned

[Reaper1]

I think you're the first I've seen adapt an external gate to the TU manifold. I was wondering how bad that would be. I can't wait to see what your results will be!

[Chris W]

I think you're the first I've seen adapt an external gate to the TU manifold. I was wondering how bad that would be. I can't wait to see what your results will be!

Aaron used an external WG on our SS version, but, I believe Bruce is the first customer with the cast unit.

Looks GREAT so far. :thumb: Keep the pics coming.

Chris-TU

[moparzrule]

Looks amazing! I had V band on my setup and would surely never go back to those crap bolt and spring setups!

FWIW, I also had a STD T3 flange drilled and tapped in my ported stock manifold, and the upper right bolt was in just as thin of metal as you stated it is in the TU header. I had no problems with a large internally gated (heavier) hybrid turbo.

So your wastegate vents to atmosphere? Thats gonna sound sweet.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Thanks guys
Yeah , if I wasn't so stubborn and used a Chrysler turbine I would've had it on by now
and the wastegate would've cleared perfectly
but at least other can see what to do
and it's really not as bad as others are making it out to be

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/header_jpeg.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/header_jpeg.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/header3_jpeg.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/header3_jpeg.jpg')

Here's what it is replacing
Not to bad for a teenage I don't think
fit in an L-body with enough room to remove it with jacking up the car!
no problems for the first 6-8 years
but the thin S/S flange did it in constantly warping/moving around
ports 1 and 4 slamming into each other and not turning into the turbo

the wastegate is CB Performance Billet unit $200 new ( when the next reasonable thing available was teh Turbonetics delta gate, got one of those for sale too)
got this back in '96-97 off a guy with a streetable 9sec vw bug :eyebrows:
very skinny piece, was a single port / modded it for dual parts so I could put on a manual wastegate controller
Since it was sitting around and I love the V-bands I decided to throw on the Tial, plus it has a replaceable valve seat

and Yes it's going to vent to atmosphere
before I modded the CB Performance wastegate with the light spring it would start to open under heavy vac. and would sound like an exhaust leak, that got annoying but not much to hear over the 3" open downpipe now

[Reaper1]

Something that was brought to my attention a few weeks ago...if you vent the WG to the atmosphere, won't that mess up the WB and NB O2 readings becuase they aren't seeing the entire exhaust flow? This is one of the reasons that if I go to externally gated I want to loop it back to the DP....other than I simply don't want the car that loud!

[Aries_Turbo]

it shouldnt mess with the readings as long as the dump tube is long enough.

the wideband port is a little close to the turbo.

looks great bruce. :)

Brian

[Keito]

Something that was brought to my attention a few weeks ago...if you vent the WG to the atmosphere, won't that mess up the WB and NB O2 readings becuase they aren't seeing the entire exhaust flow? This is one of the reasons that if I go to externally gated I want to loop it back to the DP....other than I simply don't want the car that loud!

Bad idea. An SRT-4 guy connected his wastegate back to his downpipe and lost 40 HP.
He had it dyno'd to find out.
Disconnected the wastegate and 40hp returned.(dyno'd)
He had a thread on SRT Forums.

[mcsvt]

it shouldnt mess with the readings as long as the dump tube is long enough.

the wideband port is a little close to the turbo.

looks great bruce. :)

Brian

That's what I thought in the first picture of the "bungs", then later down they were pictured further away (still a bit close though). What's the recommended distance, 15 inches?

Looks good Bruce, thanks for giving me ideas on my install. :thumb:

["Top Fuel" Bender]

it shouldnt mess with the readings as long as the dump tube is long enough.

the wideband port is a little close to the turbo.

looks great bruce. :)

Brian

thanks guys
I thought they wanted it around 9" away
and that if the wideband body temp got above 900' you were supposed to use a heat sink?

[contraption22]

Nice work Bruce! I do agree with Brian Bucar that the WB02 port should be farther from the turbo. Most WB02 mfr's say it should be farther downstream. They are much more sensitive to heat.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Nice work Bruce! I do agree with Brian Bucar that the WB02 port should be farther from the turbo. Most WB02 mfr's say it should be farther downstream. They are much more sensitive to heat.

Well another port is only a unibit hole away
Good to know before I hi-temp coat the downpipe


the port is currently 11" away measuring the outside of the radius
the weld is 14" away
if I put it at the bottom elbow should I lengthen my downpipe?
only 6" of pipe after the WBO2, could the turbelence from the gases leaving mess with the readings?

BTW: Fed Ex just dropped of the coating and the copper intake/exhaust gasket arrived last night

[Reaper1]

Bad idea. An SRT-4 guy connected his wastegate back to his downpipe and lost 40 HP.
He had it dyno'd to find out.
Disconnected the wastegate and 40hp returned.(dyno'd)
He had a thread on SRT Forums.

Sounds to me like the guy had a crappy set-up. A propperly designed merge should loose NO power. You can't reintroduce those gasses at 90* to the main flow 3" from the turbo and expect it to work well!! It should parallel the DP for a good distance and be gradually introduced to the flow at no more than 45* IIRC.


thanks guys
I thought they wanted it around 9" away
and that if the wideband body temp got above 900' you were supposed to use a heat sink?

I believe Innovate wants 18" from the turbo outlet IIRC...they suggest that it no see more than 900*F....

[Aries_Turbo]

bruce, ive seen recommendations as far as 42" away from the turbine outlet. just add another farther away just incase. also, the sensor needs to be mounted at a slight up angle. the end where the wires come out needs to be at least 10deg above level otherwise condensation can prematurely kill the sensor.

too close makes the control unit mad. especially when you pop it in the swingvalve housing like i did hehe. loses its control lock when hammering the car and accuracy suffers.

Brian

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Thanks for all the wideband info guys
Got the wideband gauge today too! Good day for Fed-Ex/UPS

Here's pics of the copper intake/exhaust manifold gasket
Marked to square off the ports
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/gasket_port_match-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/gasket_port_match-800.jpg')

I sprayed the turbine housing with dykem
let it dry, I was able to bolt it to the manifold and use an 8" scribe to mark the housing
Took all but 18 minutes including letting the dykem dry
pics 2 and 3 show them mounted together thru the port
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/turbo_port_match-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/turbo_port_match-800.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/turbo_port_match_3_-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/turbo_port_match_3_-800.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/turbo_port_match_4_-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/turbo_port_match_4_-800.jpg')

[Aries_Turbo]

looking great bruce. this thing is gonna cook.... some more. :)

Brian

[turbo2point2]

Sweet Bruce! Can't wait to see 'er go this year. That turbo was quite the mismatch for your combo. It should really get up and go now:eyebrows:

[contraption22]

Sweet Bruce! Can't wait to see 'er go this year. That turbo was quite the mismatch for your combo. It should really get up and go now:eyebrows:

Yup.. time for me to buy bigger jets.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Sweet Bruce! Can't wait to see 'er go this year. That turbo was quite the mismatch for your combo. It should really get up and go now:eyebrows:

I'm anxious to see what it does too


Yup.. time for me to buy bigger jets.

2 stage Mike, 2 stage :nx:

[Ondonti]

I am pretty sure you are going to lose lots of top end power (and make less power/psi) with that stage 2 wheel, much smaller then the O trim, plus you are spraying which clogs up the exhaust path more AND you will be spraying more.
I would consider installing your super 50 trim wheel/cover on the O trim turbine. To me it makes no sense to decrease the turbine size and increase the compressor size at the same time.


Chris, I've never seen a TDer with a "perfect" reintroduced setup. I've seen very for for any platform. Most of them are horrendous for other platforms. Its very hard to mess up dumping to atmosphere though.

18" would be better for that wideband. During full boost there is no way you are gonna avoid being "too hot" for the wideband, but you should be fine for most driving with a decent distance.

[contraption22]

I am pretty sure you are going to lose lots of top end power (and make less power/psi) with that stage 2 wheel, much smaller then the O trim, plus you are spraying which clogs up the exhaust path more AND you will be spraying more.


Bruce isn't spraying.

[Shadow]

I am pretty sure you are going to lose lots of top end power (and make less power/psi) with that stage 2 wheel, much smaller then the O trim. I would consider installing your super 50 trim wheel/cover on the O trim turbine. To me it makes no sense to decrease the turbine size and increase the compressor size at the same time.

Was wondering if someone was going to pick up on this. :clap:

[Reaper1]

Chris, I've never seen a TDer with a "perfect" reintroduced setup. I've seen very for for any platform. Most of them are horrendous for other platforms. Its very hard to mess up dumping to atmosphere though.

18" would be better for that wideband. During full boost there is no way you are gonna avoid being "too hot" for the wideband, but you should be fine for most driving with a decent distance.


While I do actually agree with you, Brent, there are some that have gotten close. I don't have the pictures on this computer, but I have a few of one particular set-up I considered pretty darn good.

If I *have* to I'll dump to the atmosphere, but I just don't want to...too much noise! :(

[Pat]

Was wondering if someone was going to pick up on this. :clap:


Top end means very little if you can't get off the line. Bruce consistently had troubles getting the thing to spool up and get moving. That 50 trim should keep him in the 10's, but he'll probably be there much more consistently.

[contraption22]

Top end means very little if you can't get off the line. Bruce consistently had troubles getting the thing to spool up and get moving. That 50 trim should keep him in the 10's, but he'll probably be there much more consistently.

Exactly what I was thinking. He may lose some trap speed and peak HP, but will likely get better 60 fts and ET's. Trap speeds don't turn on the win light. I think Bruce's car historically trapped high for his ET's.

[johnl]

Looks great Bruce. Chris really has done a good job with his header.

Forgive my ignorance, is this a 2.2 or 2.5?

[Ondonti]

Going from a O to a state II is a huge difference. Its going to hurt power across the powerband and hurt top end. He will have to run more boost to make the same power even at lower rpms.

If he is not coming off the line in an auto, then i think he is being too conservative on his torque converter. I dont think a car should have to have a perfect staging strategy just to make a decent pass with proper boost off the line.

[Shadow]

Top end means very little if you can't get off the line. Bruce consistently had troubles getting the thing to spool up and get moving. That 50 trim should keep him in the 10's, but he'll probably be there much more consistently.

His car may be light enough to pull that off, but a stage 2 turbine in a .63 housing is really a street friendly alt to a stage 3, for ppl who can't spool the stage 3 properly. I would think Bruce would want a stage 3, but like I said, he's prob light enough that he doesn't need the HP to make the ET. Any idea how much HP the car was making?

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Yeap no spray here , ever , well yet
car never did spool right off the line
only time the turbo was ever responsive is after a hard run on the return road
The thinking is that the wheel is too heavy
I've heard from reliable sources 425-450hp out of the super 50 w/ stage2
I was going to try it out and maybe switch to the .82 housing if I felt it was chocking
There are others running close to my combo without an issue with the stage 2
car always trapped high
11.89@120 11.50@125 11.001@129 10.89@129
my 11.89 to 11.001 were on 2.0 60'
everyone said that once my 60' dropped so would my mph
1.65-1.72 60' on my 10 sec passes, no drop in mph
No tire spin on my passes
Actually 1st 10sec pass was after I put the e-brake back on
Seems the good burnouts was putting enough heat in the turbo to get it to spool o.k. off the line
had 6 different convertors in the car, never a $1200+ unit or anything but...
car pulls great top end, 100mph-103mph 1/8ths so 25+mph top ends
I've even made 2 passes shifting 1-2 (no 2nd) and only lost .01sec compared to previous passes
all 11.50 passes were @ 25psi
sub 11 and 10 sec passes 31psi
haven't had the car on a dyno in a few years
last dyno was 25psi with air-water I/C leaks
320hp 370ft/lbs
car weights 2000lbs with me in it

It's a 2.2 long rod ,Steve Menegon head and big cam, big plenum ported 2 piece intake

[Shadow]

Yeap no spray here , ever , well yet
car never did spool right off the line
only time the turbo was ever responsive is after a hard run on the return road
The thinking is that the wheel is too heavy
I've heard from reliable sources 425-450hp out of the super 50 w/ stage2
I was going to try it out and maybe switch to the .82 housing if I felt it was chocking
There are others running close to my combo without an issue with the stage 2
car always trapped high
11.89@120 11.50@125 11.001@129 10.89@129
my 11.89 to 11.001 were on 2.0 60'
everyone said that once my 60' dropped so would my mph
1.65-1.72 60' on my 10 sec passes, no drop in mph
No tire spin on my passes
Actually 1st 10sec pass was after I put the e-brake back on
Seems the good burnouts was putting enough heat in the turbo to get it to spool o.k. off the line
had 6 different convertors in the car, never a $1200+ unit or anything but...
car pulls great top end, 100mph-103mph 1/8ths so 25+mph top ends
I've even made 2 passes shifting 1-2 (no 2nd) and only lost .01sec compared to previous passes
all 11.50 passes were @ 25psi
sub 11 and 10 sec passes 31psi
haven't had the car on a dyno in a few years
last dyno was 25psi with air-water I/C leaks
320hp 370ft/lbs
car weights 2000lbs with me in it

It's a 2.2 long rod ,Steve Menegon head and big cam, big plenum ported 2 piece intake

What A/R was the o-trim turbine housing? 425-450 sounds about right, the stage 3 is around 500 but that's with a really good flowing exhaust, so the TU piece should help you. What RPM were you seeing full spool with the old turbo? I didn't know too much about your car till your last post. 2000lb with you in is pretty light...it might work well for you, if not the .82 should be all you need! :thumb:

["Top Fuel" Bender]

What A/R was the o-trim turbine housing? 425-450 sounds about right, the stage 3 is around 500 but that's with a really good flowing exhaust, so the TU piece should help you. What RPM were you seeing full spool with the old turbo? I didn't know too much about your car till your last post. 2000lb with you in is pretty light...it might work well for you, if not the .82 should be all you need! :thumb:

it was a 50 a/r intake and 58 a/r exhaust
going off memory
started 3000, 5-6psi 3400, 10-12 3600 ,4200 25-31 psi
I just to shift at 6,000, was in high gear by what felt like the 330' mark, 3rd held forever
lately shifting 7,000 , car pulled REAL hard on the 2-3 shift

[johnl]

Long rod - in my experience, that shifts power band upward, makes a spinner out of a snapper/jumper. Good for pistons too as it gives up angularity/leverage on the crankpin so it pulls less off the bottom. That's part of what's going on . . .

[Reaper1]

^^IAWTP, depending on how long the rods are, you may even want to look at different cams to take advantage of the different characteristics of the piston. The dwell times at TDC and BDC are now different, calling for a different cam profile to really be effective and work its best. This alone may wake the car up considerably. I'm sure you've already looked in to it, but the timing curves are also going to be different than other "typical" set-ups. Beyond that, yeah long rods like to spin, so let her rev a little like you have been...I bet she'll be a LOT happier! :thumb:

["Top Fuel" Bender]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Pauter_Wiseco.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Pauter_Wiseco.jpg')

6.25 long on the rods for that elusive magic 1.72 rod ratio
back then I was trying to get some more torque to compete with the 2.5s
always thought the long rod was a slower "diesel" setup not a revver, short rods are for revving aren't they?
Figured with the turbo I could really take advantage of the longer dwell times for cylinder filling

I would love to get standalone (have a megasquirt I have to assemble) or atleast a grasp on the whole chem/dcal thing
I've started looking more into chem/dcal to try and modify what I've got
For the most part what I have works but I know there is so much more hidden in car

["Top Fuel" Bender]

INSTALL TIP !!!
Just doing some mockup for the I/C pipes after looking at the offset of the turbo
Now when I welded/ported the lower runners of the intake years ago, I switched to allenhead bolts
I figured I'd try putting on the header then the intake , NO PROBLEM :thumb:

Your application may differ but shouldn't
Bolt on the header (without the intake you can lay on the motor and watch what your doing with cramming your hand up the firewall
Slide the bolts into the intake 1st
set the intake down in place , you should be able to hand start the outter bolts
You'll need a 1/4" ratchet (prefer locking) , extension, and I bought a 1/4" drive ball allen set from snap-on (blue point actually)
now just tighten everything down and then bolt on your turbo

I'll load up some pics later tonight

[Reaper1]

The better rod ratio is what makes the engine a revver, not necessarily the rod length itself.

Because there is less side loading and longer dwell times(specifically at BDC IIRC), THIS makes the engine want to rev. Plus you have lower piston speeds at a given rpm as well. As I said before, couple it with a cam and a timing curve that can take advantage of that and that thing will SCREAM!!! :thumb:

[Ondonti]

yeah...why was this motor ever shifting at 6000 :P
should rev till the lifters collapse, then add titanium lifters, try again, then go just a little under that rpm :P

IMO longrod and small turbine setup is not complimentary.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

o.k. so here's where I'm at now
sandblasted (not glassbeading) Turbos Unleashed Header and turbine
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/sandblasted-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/sandblasted-800.jpg')

preheating the parts (it was 50' outside)
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/pre-heating-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/pre-heating-800.jpg')

bought a cheap Harbor Freight touch-up gun and hooked it up to my pancake carpentry air compressor
Trying out TurboX Blue from techline coating
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/turbox-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/turbox-800.jpg')

MAN !!!!! is that blue
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/turboxblue_coated-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/turboxblue_coated-800.jpg')

everything cleans up easy with acetone
It says it'll cure on the vehicle but not to overheat it untill the parts fully cured
so I half-cured it in my old toaster oven 450 for a hour
then turbine housing fit right in but the header hung out
so I bypassed the door switch, got the part in as far as I could
doubled up aluminum foil and tarped off what didn't fit
I baked it for and hour in one side then flipped the part for another hour
I was suprised the the part "in the oven" stayed around 400 while the alumn. foil side was still 300-325 range, but the foil itself was only 80'
seemed to work pretty good so far
mock-up pic, downpipe is going to get heat wrapped (I did lengthen it and add another wideband bung)
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/coated_assembled-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/coated_assembled-800.jpg')

also added the EGT probe
needed a new fitting, high pressure compression fitting x 1/8" NPT fitting
had to drill it to fit the EGT probe
drill and tap the manifold for the EGT probe
I always had mine by the turbo port so I figured I'd put it there
Make sure you check your probe to starter clearance if your putting it in the supplied casting spots, with my VDO egt probe I wouldn't be able to use them
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/egt_fitting-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/egt_fitting-800.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/egt_probe-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/egt_probe-800.jpg')

Granted I did have everything mocked up previously but I just install the header for good in less then 30minutes using my intake last method from above in the dark using a flashilight while my daughter was watching "The Care Bears" in the garage with the surround sound blairing
Cyl #2 seemed to be the worst on my application but a few turns on each lower nut till you get it close and it'll be on in no time

I/C pipes and BOV are all done
Waiting for the injectors to come back
Now I just have to figure out what to do with the blown welds on the intake :(
good thing I found that before I shoved the intake on today
I think this is all adding up to an interesting year

[Aries_Turbo]

"youre lucky that hundred shot of nos didnt blow the welds on the intake!" hehehehehehe

looks good bruce!

Brian

[Ondonti]

3' downpipe?

["Top Fuel" Bender]

"youre lucky that hundred shot of nos didnt blow the welds on the intake!" hehehehehehe

looks good bruce!

Brian

exactly


3' downpipe?


I know , I know , I had to lengthen it as advised about the wideband (wideband newbies :banghead:)

[Ondonti]

actually that was a typo and was supposed to say 3" :P
but yeah, being more critical....the bung is pretty close. maybe 3" hehe.

[mcsvt]

Looking good Bruce. After reading your fitting of the header, I started playing with mine. Thanks for the tips, with a bit of grinding, install will now be easier. Just need to place my final order when my turbo is ready :)

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Looking good Bruce. After reading your fitting of the header, I started playing with mine. Thanks for the tips, with a bit of grinding, install will now be easier. Just need to place my final order when my turbo is ready :)

Good to hear
think you'll be up a running this summer?



Finally got the exhaust side all mounted up for good
turbo clocked and tightened
oil drain back made, coated/ baked and installed
Tial wastegate clocked and installed
ground down my horable welds on the downpipe (starting using Hoagie's powerglide 110 welder then had to finish with my neighbors 110 flux core)
I feel imbarressed welding on the smae pipe Troy did
Coated it with Hightemp Black, wrapped it with headerwrap then painted it again
Installed the downpipe and factory O2, holding off on the wideband till i fire it back up and know it runs o.k. before coating the WBO2

Mad props to all that have such nice engine bays and cars period
It's taken forever to halfass this turd back together :thumb:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P3221928-8001.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P3221928-8001.jpg')

["Top Fuel" Bender]

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/nitrous_blown_intake_welds-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/nitrous_blown_intake_welds-800.jpg')
I think Allen hid the nitrous system in my omni after SDAC
I took it down too far truing it up, there was no parting line or marks when I bolted it on but.....

since the turbo was relocated I didn't need the dimple in the intake to clear the I/C pipes,
So thanks to Mike and Joe Marra with Troy on standby we got it all fixed up

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P3231932-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P3231932-800.jpg')

Replacement injectors showed up today too
I/C pipes just about ready to go (about 16" less piping then before)
Tial 50mm BOV

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P3231936-800.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P3231936-800.jpg')

Hoping to have it running on wends :banana-mario:

[Juggy]

Tial 50mm BOV


your going to love the sound of that BOV

what spring did u order with it???

i got the 11psi one, and I will say i experience a little flutter in low boost shifts, especially if your running a bigger cam with less vac too, the 9psi spring would have been a better choice for myself


whats the deal with that blue shiiit on the manifold/housing?

["Top Fuel" Bender]

your going to love the sound of that BOV

what spring did u order with it???

i got the 11psi one, and I will say i experience a little flutter in low boost shifts, especially if your running a bigger cam with less vac too, the 9psi spring would have been a better choice for myself


whats the deal with that blue shiiit on the manifold/housing?


yeah it's got the 11psi spring
Steve's big cam still pulls good vac., it's just a drag car too
The blue is a high temp. coating from Techline Coatings
It's their TurboX Blue, I like blues and greys and wanted something different then black soooooooo

[black86glhs]

Good to hear
think you'll be up a running this summer?



Finally got the exhaust side all mounted up for good
turbo clocked and tightened
oil drain back made, coated/ baked and installed
Tial wastegate clocked and installed
ground down my horable welds on the downpipe (starting using Hoagie's powerglide 110 welder then had to finish with my neighbors 110 flux core)
I feel imbarressed welding on the smae pipe Troy did
Coated it with Hightemp Black, wrapped it with headerwrap then painted it again
Installed the downpipe and factory O2, holding off on the wideband till i fire it back up and know it runs o.k. before coating the WBO2

Mad props to all that have such nice engine bays and cars period
It's taken forever to halfass this turd back together :thumb:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/P3221928-8001.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/P3221928-8001.jpg')I wish I could half-*ss things as good as you!:nod:

["Top Fuel" Bender]

I wish I could half things as good as you!:nod:
thanks but did you see the rest of the car
:o

[turbo2point2]

Keep up the good work Bruce:thumb: Be sure and let us know how she sounds on Wed.

[Juggy]

yeah it's got the 11psi spring
Steve's big cam still pulls good vac., it's just a drag car too
The blue is a high temp. coating from Techline Coatings
It's their TurboX Blue, I like blues and greys and wanted something different then black soooooooo

ok cool thanks for the info, i gotta couple questions to ask ya as well...PM coming soon :o

["Top Fuel" Bender]

car is all together, running pretty good then I took it to the dv-sdac dyno day
dv-sdac dyno day (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34314&page=5)

played with the fuel a little, pulled total 8 pounds out and 1 back in to be safe
ended up around 11.3:1
car spools nicely now, no sitting on the line for 30 seconds anymore
TU header held up well even with the redrilled bolt pattern
Troy's wastegate tube he made me worked great even glowing cherry red (wish I had that on video)
Joe's welds on the intake didn't pull a fast and furious
Video's of the pulls and onboard camera coming soon
Pics are on the above link (thanks Teri)

Measured some stuff while on the dyno
t3/t4 super 50E / .63 stage 2 , NPR large intercooler , 2.2 auto
60' outside temp, 365' compressor temp, 105' intake temp @ 27psi boost (usually run 31psi)
Now my spool #'s were kinda hard to see with the camera shaking (gotta work on the 12min. built rollcage mount)
but remember we think I'm having a conv. issue here too
positive boost @ 3,000
5 psi 3,500
9 psi 3,800
14psi @ 4,00
20psi @ 4,200
27psi @ 4,500

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Here's the 2 dyno sheets from Brady's even though I didn't get to make full pulls
looks like she wants to keep climbing!
2.2 auto super50E t3/t4 .63 stage 2
Menegon Head and cam, npr intercooler
27psi

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Brady_s_torque_08.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Brady_s_torque_08.jpg') http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/Brady_s_horsepower_08.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/Brady_s_horsepower_08.jpg')

here's an older dyno pull
2.2 auto 46trim full to4e
MP mild port head, super 60 cam
air-water 25psi
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/thumbs/dyno.jpg ('http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/data/500/dyno.jpg')