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View Full Version : i may have really f-ed something up



t3rse
04-10-2006, 01:24 AM
what is max temp before stuff starts to break? i ran my car at what the SDS comp said was 230, but it was bouncing between 194 and 230, showing the limiting factor in the sensor. I speculate the car was running around 215 or so, as nothing seemed out of place, except... Well, the alternator bracket that I made broke and I didn't realize this. I ran the car for 1.5 hours without the water pump turning. It was probably turning somewhat, as the belt was sqeaking still (normal on my car), but i'm scared. I was watching the exhaust pipe the whole time as I noted the high temp, and no smoke that would indicate a blown h-gasket. if the head is warped, i don't give a flying fook, but i can't deal with a fuxored block. i have spare heads...the car was actually running fantastic, it held 18mm merc at idle and was smooth as silk idle, extremely abnormal for my car, which is why i didn't see a problem, just assume the temp sensor went to sheit. any advice or insight??

tryingbe
04-10-2006, 01:45 AM
What bracket did you make?

And how can you not notice the over heat light? If the belt wasn't turning at all, your battery light would have come on.

Force Fed Mopar
04-10-2006, 06:27 AM
Hey man, you get it home alright? Kev said you tried to call me around 7, I guess when it broke? I was on the internet, damn dial-up :( sorry about that.

If you didn't see any smoke, you're probably fine. Wasn't skipping or missing or anything? I've ran mine real hot several times, w/o losing anything. I once drove my TBI Lebaron hot all day long, never hurt it, but I stopped every so often to keep it from getting too hot.

turbovanmanČ
04-10-2006, 11:27 AM
215 isn't bad, it sounds like you had some coolant flow. Driving 1.5 hours and its still fine then it really is fine. My big ugly B250 had a bum rad fan and it hit 230 on the highway one very hot summer, probably for over an hour and zero damage so 215 isn't that bad, :amen:

t3rse
04-10-2006, 12:08 PM
SDS standalone computer, there is no overheat or bat light...

no smoke or steam, so hopefully it's all good, the belt was still on there, barely and was squeaking so we'll see. the car is still stuck there. i changed to a late model alt on my glh and made a bracket from steel, u-shaped with a tongue that bolts to the lower bracket. it snapped right above the bolt hole, not on a weld. It probably snapped when I cranked the boost up some more before I left for greer. i didn't put bushings on it, so it was a solid connection which would also contribute to metal fatigue.

tryingbe
04-10-2006, 12:53 PM
If you needed a lower adjuster bracket, I can send you one for $10 shipped.

http://home.pcmagic.net/amazinghl/forsale/adjustbracket1.jpg

t3rse
04-10-2006, 02:42 PM
sounds great, but i have to get the car moving tommorrow, so if i don't have any luck in the jy, i'll let you know, i appreciate the offer though...

jckrieger
04-10-2006, 08:28 PM
Drive slow and let the natural convection keep the motor cool. As long as you don't go faster than 25-35mph, the car shoudln't overheat. Now, I'm not saying you won't have hot spots, but I have done this without causing any damage before.

Dave_J
04-16-2006, 04:26 PM
I drove from Ringgold Ga to Bloomfield Il with a burnt up rad fan. I kept the heater on high and the window down. Luckly it was winter time. It did peg the stock gage a few times. DaveJ