custom alignment setup

[csx#516]

looking for a setup for my csx
1)camber
2) toe
3) weight transfer ie front to rear

Taking car to shop tuesday Feb 18 09 got the alignment man for aday 250.00 he will dial it in and give me a custom set up.Taking it to the track in knoxsville in march
car was kyb rear mopar perf front. eiback springs
I Have
6.5 dodge crabs (wide tire) 225 50 15
on street OEM stock rims 205 50 15
also have 6.5 wide tire( pair )crabs 205 50 drag radials
setting car up for scca
got any ideas:eyebrows:

[turbovanman²]

$250?????????? holy sh*t. :wow1:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28922&highlight=camber

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27309&highlight=camber

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27249&highlight=camber

[csx#516]

$250?????????? holy sh*t. :wow1:

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28922&highlight=camber

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27309&highlight=camber

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27249&highlight=camber

not bad for putting car on scales and moving weight also

[turbovanman²]

not bad for putting car on scales and moving weight also

Ok, that makes more sense, :thumb:

[GLHNSLHT2]

Need to know more about your setup. What bushings? Shocks/struts? Camber plates?

[csx#516]

Need to know more about your setup. What bushings? Shocks/struts? Camber plates?

Stock bushings eibach springs mopar strut and kyb gas adjust rear no camber plate yet looking for help on up grade

been waiting to hear back from johnny with poly bushing
on a anti-swaybar system up grade for 1987 csx front and rear contacted him on 1/12/09. Know of a up grade to install after march installed crabs 6.5 tire 225 50 15 going to run my first scca meet in knoxsville TN :thumb:http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32798

http://http://g.imagehost.org/0946/on_crabs.jpg

[turbovanman²]

Johnny's around, PM him if you haven't heard back, he will get back to you right away.

[GLHNSLHT2]

If it's a track only car you'll need 2.0 to 2.5 degree's of negative camber up front equal on both sides. But you probably won't be able to get that without camber plates. So get as much camber out of the front as you can and stay equal on both side. Then set the rear 1/2 degree less. So if you can only get -1.5 up front then put -1.0 in the rear and so forth. This will balance the car so that both ends slide at the same time with a slight tendency for the rear to go just a little bit sooner.
Toe I'd set 1/16" out on both sides in the front, no "total" toe BS. Set the rear toe to zero
Caster is non-adjustable.

Since you have the biggest diameter front and rear sway bar you can get factory or aftermarket I wouldn't look for another one. It just needs end links added to the ends and poly bushings from Energy suspension. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2579 If you click on the pics there's a write up on the side of the parts you need.

This allows the sway bar to move freely and not bind up like stock. By allowing the sway bar to move freely the lower control arms move freely. So now both tires stay planted on the ground when you accelerate be it either straight ahead or in the middle of the corner. Doing this I have ZERO need for Posi. I can floor it mid corner and the front digs in hard and pulls the car right around. I have a 2.5 with 300 lbs of torque and I can't get the tires to break away mid corner. It's also $70 for the parts so it's not to expensive.

Also any company that carries Energy Suspension bushings will have lower control arm bushings for your car. Johnny sells the ES bushings for that model year so if you need them now and can't get ahold of him you can get them anywhere.

[csx#516]

Thanks GLHNSLHT2
This is a project I able to complete before the meet in march I have a extra swaybar i'm on this. Also i'll bring this to alignment shop tuesday and specs:thumb:

[mo' parts]

If it's a track only car you'll need 2.0 to 2.5 degree's of negative camber up front equal on both sides. But you probably won't be able to get that without camber plates. So get as much camber out of the front as you can and stay equal on both side. Then set the rear 1/2 degree less. So if you can only get -1.5 up front then put -1.0 in the rear and so forth. This will balance the car so that both ends slide at the same time with a slight tendency for the rear to go just a little bit sooner.
Toe I'd set 1/16" out on both sides in the front, no "total" toe BS. Set the rear toe to zero
Caster is non-adjustable.

Since you have the biggest diameter front and rear sway bar you can get factory or aftermarket I wouldn't look for another one. It just needs end links added to the ends and poly bushings from Energy suspension. http://www.pnw-sdac.org/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2579 If you click on the pics there's a write up on the side of the parts you need.

This allows the sway bar to move freely and not bind up like stock. By allowing the sway bar to move freely the lower control arms move freely. So now both tires stay planted on the ground when you accelerate be it either straight ahead or in the middle of the corner. Doing this I have ZERO need for Posi. I can floor it mid corner and the front digs in hard and pulls the car right around. I have a 2.5 with 300 lbs of torque and I can't get the tires to break away mid corner. It's also $70 for the parts so it's not to expensive.

Also any company that carries Energy Suspension bushings will have lower control arm bushings for your car. Johnny sells the ES bushings for that model year so if you need them now and can't get ahold of him you can get them anywhere.

Very good info. I may be needing this as well.

CSX 516 (sorry forget your name,LOL) i am very glad to see this car come this far in as little time as it has, compared to my friend finding it in the JY for sale lot, where i purchased it and saved it. I had been keeping an eye on it, as i had found it about 4-5 months prior to the door ding and jasper engine failure. Which caused it to end up at the salvage yard.
Nice write up on the progress too, really makes me kick myself in the rear for not being able to keep it. At least its in good hands.:thumb:

[csx#516]

Very good info. I may be needing this as well.

CSX 516 (sorry forget your name,LOL) i am very glad to see this car come this far in as little time as it has, compared to my friend finding it in the JY for sale lot, where i purchased it and saved it. I had been keeping an eye on it, as i had found it about 4-5 months prior to the door ding and jasper engine failure. Which caused it to end up at the salvage yard.
Nice write up on the progress too, really makes me kick myself in the rear for not being able to keep it. At least its in good hands.:thumb:

Thanks for the info it has been fun working on csx516. Donor car 89 cs daytona car and goodys over the the pass 16 years many more things to upgrade from donor car ie spindles a arms short throw shiter brakes .... just to new a few as i do them I'll post if you got any hints just let me know it just took time to get and find good parts over time. And now having a great rust free car to work with .Now just have fun upgrading and saving for more upgrade.And best of all GOING TO THE TRACK

NAME Ken Olvis
:lol:

[csx#516]

Thanks GLHNSLHT2
This is a project I able to complete before the meet in march I have a extra swaybar i'm on this. Also i'll bring this to alignment shop tuesday and specs:thumb:

GLHNSLHT2
thanks on the tip on setup have you balanced your car on scales. if so what did you find that worked best.:nod:

[GLHNSLHT2]

no, unfortunately I haven't had the car on scales. The only weight movement I've done is getting rid of the stock battery and putting a garden tractor battery on the passenger side. With the sway bar mod it'll burn off both fronts as long as you can keep them spinning. If the road has a crown to it you'll slide down the crown.

[csx#516]

no, unfortunately I haven't had the car on scales. The only weight movement I've done is getting rid of the stock battery and putting a garden tractor battery on the passenger side. With the sway bar mod it'll burn off both fronts as long as you can keep them spinning. If the road has a crown to it you'll slide down the crown.

2622 total weight on scale 1/4 tank fuel , a/c unit removed ,no spair tire
full interior
i also have weight when i'm in car these cars are heavy in the front place 2" rubber spacier in rear spring.doing that put 34 plus load weight on rear also full tank is best for setup on road course.loads more weight to rear
I learn more today about setup and what tire pressure dose on each tire add or taking way weight from front to rear and diangle just by tire pressure also he showed me how to make a car push or loose.I took good notes after I get some time in the seat of this car get where I like it. We will know more numbers. Then 400lbs of car weight comes off dail it back in .More track time NOW I HAVE A BASE. to go by. Move battery to rear its easyer to transfer weight to tire when closer to 50/50 in real weight.:thumb:


http://f.imagehost.org/0600/stock_weight.jpghttp://http://f.imagehost.org/0280/setup_balance.jpghttp://f.imagehost.org/0579/alighnment.jpg

[GLHNSLHT2]

gawd I wish I had access to a setup like that. Awesome! So what were you able to set the alignment at?

[csx#516]

gawd I wish I had access to a setup like that. Awesome! So what were you able to set the alignment at?

it would go to 1.8 starting at 1.3 front 1/2 degree less rear also set toe per ur spec also alighnment shop is going to make a hard pan bar or a z link for rear.Something he his thinking on this week for me. New idea 2 me