? about 85 block

[sleeper]

So I am taking apart the original block in my 85 glh and on the piston I see a ford logo on the inside? Does anyone know what thats all about? The part # on the inside reads E7ZE-CA. Also the blocks date of production is 9-2-84 other #s I found on the block read 4343530-16. Is this a turbo block?

[turbovanman²]

Got pics?

Does the block have a turbo drain in the back? All blocks are cast the same, just for turbo, they add and machine a few things differently.

[Anonymous_User]

If it has the oil return for the turbo, its a turbo block.

Got any pics of the Ford logo? That's a new one!!!

[sleeper]

Yes it does have the drain for turbo.The ford logo on the piston is weird,I will try and get some pics up of it.

[sleeper]

I just did some checking that part # is for a ford mustang piston? What the H@%% is that about?

[sleeper]

Sorry guys I was looking at a rod and piston from a mustang motor me and my brother built. It was sitting with the dodge parts. God I feel like a retard.

[sleeper]

The reason why I wanted to know about this block... I wanted to know if you guys think it's reliable for what I'm going to run? I want to use the 84-85 block that I have with an 8 bolt cast crank, t-2 rods, forged venolie pistons, ARP head and main studs. The head I'm running is the stock G head with forward motion 475 cam, forward motion springs, 1 mm valves, ported. The turbo I'm running is the forward motions' stage 3 enforcer turbo with 63 AR exhaust side with a stage 3 wheel. I'm also going to be running forward motion's calibration. They claim that this setup is capable of 400 hp. I was just curious if this block will be strong enough? The reason why I'm going with the cast crank is because I'm running an automatic transmission. Your thoughts or info....Thanks.

[supercrackerbox]

Sounds like you're off to a good start. And no worries about the cast crank, they're pretty stout, with the benefit of less rotating weight compared to the forged ones. I'm running a cast crank myself for that very reason.

However . . .

Concerning the block- the '88 and older castings are not bad. I believe someone on this board has made some very impressive power figures with one. But since it looks as though you're going to need to do all the machine work anyway, an '89-up Common Block would be cheap insurance. I pulled mine out of a base model Shadow America at the south U-Pullit (in Omaha), got the block, oil pan, and 2.2 crank for $65 a few years back. The machine shop only charged me $15 to drill the hole and press in the tube for the oil return. Just a thought.

You also have a PM. ;)

["Top Fuel" Bender]

Robert Mclellan "shadow" went 10.99 in his non-common block charger
and I went 10.89 in my non-common block omni
My hasn't been on the dyno in years but definetly pushing some decent power

PUT IN A COMMON BLOCK !!!
they're everywhere, even more so since your doing the machine work
I've got head studs, main studs, fully built lowerend
2-3 years ago I was having problems lifting the head and sparying coolant any passes over 25+ (normally run 31 psi)
took it apart hard block filled the block, checked the deck , cut the head new studs and I've been o.k. since

lots of people are running crazy power in common blocks without any other precautions
take the easy path

[sleeper]

Thanks for all the info guys. I guess I will start looking for a common block. ONE last ? I guess I have. The common block is cross drilled, so do I really need to have my head cross drilled, will it be an issue? And what about my cam and crank gears.

[turbovanman²]

What year is the transmission? This will affect what crank you can run or you need to run a newer trans, to which you should be running anyhow.

Also, the 85 block has 10mm head bolt threads, that will need redoing to 11mm so yeah, get a common block.

If you get an 89 and up common block, get the crank and all the timing pulleys as they are round tooth, you can reuse your waterpump and housing, power steering pump, oil pan. I would just find a complete short block then you have everything.

If you run an MP gasket ending in 005, it will connect the head cross drills using the gasket so no worries about drilling the block. If your head doesn't have them, just drill them in, aprox 1/8 hole.

[sleeper]

The trans is from Glen Smith I guess I will have to contact him about what it came out of. I just got back from a junk yard,I found a motor out of a 90 daytona non turbo. The motor is very clean, everything is there. Kinda new to this, but the comman block was used in all 2.2 2.5 motors from 89 0n correct?. So you are saying that I should cross drill the head, and its as simple as swaping the cam pulley to run my G head?

[OnLooker]

If going to the CB get the water pump housing and alt bracket that bolts to the water pump to make the swap a little easier.

[sleeper]

Sound good I will grab them

[turbovanman²]

The trans is from Glen Smith I guess I will have to contact him about what it came out of. I just got back from a junk yard,I found a motor out of a 90 daytona non turbo. The motor is very clean, everything is there. Kinda new to this, but the common block was used in all 2.2 2.5 motors from 89 0n correct?. So you are saying that I should cross drill the head, and its as simple as swapping the cam pulley to run my G head?

You should be running an 87 and up trans anyhow, drive shafts are stronger.

Yes, cross drill the head and swap the cam pulley, its that simple. The cam will be aprox 4 deg retarded but that will help your powerband, it will move it up.

[sleeper]

Yes the trans is a newer model trans. I guess a adjustable cam gear would help with that anyways. Also what are you guys doing with the balance shaft holes to fill them after they are removed? Turbovanman like your van and what your doing with it:thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Yes the trans is a newer model trans. I guess a adjustable cam gear would help with that anyways. Also what are you guys doing with the balance shaft holes to fill them after they are removed? Turbovanman like your van and what your doing with it:thumb:

Ok, so your set. Make sure you have axles from an 87 and newer car, the older ones are smaller at the trans spline end and break off with power.

BS oil hole, I drill and tap for a pipe plug, loctite, good to go.

Thanks, when the van works, its fun, lol! :eyebrows:

[sleeper]

So were am I drilling the holes? Do you just mesure the holes on the block for there location and put them in the same spot on the head?

[turbovanman²]

So were am I drilling the holes? Do you just mesure the holes on the block for there location and put them in the same spot on the head?

Look on the head, you will see the marks from the block or use the gasket as a template.

If you get a CD block and use the 005 gasket, you don't need to drill the head.

[sleeper]

So I really dont need to run a cormetic head gasket or anything fancy. Turbovanman I do thank you for all of your help with this . I guess its a nobrainer to just use the head gasket as template. Well know that I know whats gowing on with the block, I just need to figure out the torque converter. I need to find out what gear I have in the trans, what my turbo starts making boost at, what size tire I should run. So I can try and figure what stall to run. Forward Motion said some were around 3800 to 4000, just seems high.

[supercrackerbox]

The trans is from Glen Smith I guess I will have to contact him about what it came out of. I just got back from a junk yard,I found a motor out of a 90 daytona non turbo. The motor is very clean, everything is there. Kinda new to this, but the comman block was used in all 2.2 2.5 motors from 89 0n correct?. So you are saying that I should cross drill the head, and its as simple as swaping the cam pulley to run my G head?

The block is the same, and the TII rods are the same, but that car most likely had a 2.5, which would be a different crank. Which honestly isn't a bad deal as long as you haven't already ordered the pistons and calibration (for the computer). You'd have more torque at the bottom end in trade for some power at the top end. Or, you can check with your machine shop for a 2.2 crank- they usually have a source for good ones that are already turned. It just has to be a common block crank, as they are not interchangeable with the earlier blocks.

[sleeper]

Under the hood it said it was a 2.2 on the tag.

[turbovanman²]

So I really dont need to run a cormetic head gasket or anything fancy. Turbovanman I do thank you for all of your help with this . I guess its a nobrainer to just use the head gasket as template. Well know that I know whats gowing on with the block, I just need to figure out the torque converter. I need to find out what gear I have in the trans, what my turbo starts making boost at, what size tire I should run. So I can try and figure what stall to run. Forward Motion said some were around 3800 to 4000, just seems high.

Cometic's are also fine, if you do run one, just drill the head, :thumb:

Just run a stock stall built converter, we don't need high stalls unless your running some huge diesel turbo, :eyebrows: Stock stall is 3500 rpm.

What car is this going in?

Guessing at your turbo and with a stage III wheel, I would guess boost will be in around 4000 rpm, maybe lower with a better cal or higher flowing head. My old G head 8 valve with a similiar turbo spooled up at 4200 rpm.

Does the trans builder know what gears he put in? If he didn't change them, there is a number on the left front, the flat machined part, facing the drivers wheel, jus above the oil pan. I can look up what it should have.

24.5 slicks are a very popular size and hook up well but you do need spacers, custom wheels or PT steelies aparantly work.

If you do pick up a CB, find a 2.2 otherwise you'll need to find another crank or buy new pistons, if you have them for a 2.2 already. The crank will say 2.5 on it.

[sleeper]

The # on the trans read out PK4471421 9484 7430, hopefully that is the #you need. I do know that he did not change the gear out. So who's torque converter do you recomend? I really dont know who's cal to go with eather? I just figured I would run forward motions because there s 60 cal is made for this turbo I guess? I good with the motor work, but wirring and computors scares the you know what out of me. Also the head is ported with 1mm valves and forward motion 475 cam. This is gowing into a omni glh

[turbovanman²]

The # on the trans read out PK4471421 9484 7430, hopefully that is the #you need. I do know that he did not change the gear out. So who's torque converter do you recomend? I really dont know who's cal to go with eather? I just figured I would run forward motions because there s 60 cal is made for this turbo I guess? I good with the motor work, but wirring and computors scares the you know what out of me. Also the head is ported with 1mm valves and forward motion 475 cam. This is gowing into a omni glh

TU has convertors, Nan, etc.

This is your trans-


'88 600, Caravelle, Daytona, Lancer, Lebaron, Shadow, Sundance
3.02 Final Drive Turbo Applications (1.06 transfer and 2.86 ring gear)
Gear Ratio's 1st 2.69, 2nd 1.55, 3rd 1.00, Reverse 2.10
4471494, 4471421

What cal depends on what computer your running. Shelgame or FWD can provide cals for you and I think a better choice because they can alter and tweak for you. The S60 is a race only cal and not a good choice if your driving on the street.

[1984rampage]

Sorry guys I was looking at a rod and piston from a mustang motor me and my brother built. It was sitting with the dodge parts. God I feel like a retard.

HAHAHAHAHA OMG I LAUGHED SOO HARD AFTER READING THAT!!! :lol:

but we all make stupid mistakes lol :D

[sleeper]

My wife even called me a jack a$$ !!:banghead: LOL After that I didnt know if I wanted to post on here agian. I am gowing to run 88/89 wiring. Who is shelgame and how do I contact them?

[supercrackerbox]

Under the hood it said it was a 2.2 on the tag.

Well then you should be golden. ;)