problem replacing fuel pump on '98 Regal GS

[TurboSedan]

i replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro i bought from PRJ Performance (installed in the original fuel pump module). the problem is, i CANNOT push the FPM down far enough to get the lock ring back in place! i'm about to the point where i'm just going to bring it to a shop and have them do it. as it is now, the car runs fine and the fuel gauge works, but the FPM isn't secured to the the tank and i'm not going to drive the car like that obviously.

has anyone here done this job and if so how did you do it? my brother and i were pushing down as hard as possible on it but it still won't go down far enough to allow the lock ring to go into place.

i also have a new Delphi FPM here, maybe that would be easier to install? although, i would rather keep the Walbro and return the Delphi FPM to rockauto if i can (and save almost $300).

TIA

[RoadWarrior222]

Well I'll start with the stupid/obvious stuff...

There isn't an old gasket or seal ring in there already is there?
Are you sure it's located right? starting the lugs at the right place etc.

Then, is it cold there right now? The seal ring/gasket could be real hard with cold weather.

[J&H Ryan]

Im assuming the dimensions of the top part of the FPM have not changed as you said the walbro went into the stock hanger.

Its just tricky - I've done two of them. You just have to ---- the connections at a certain angle as you're going down, and then it will just plop into place. If you don't put it in right - you'll know when you go to fill up and get gas all over the ground...

[turbovanman]

If its the module style with the large type O-Ring, you need to lube the crap out of it, they are very sticky. I use a caliper synthetic grease but silicone spray, grease also work.

[TurboSedan]

i finally got it (at like 5am when it was still dark out and 23*F). what can i say i wanted to get this dam job finished!

anyway, at the advice of someone on regalgs.org, i went to Wal-Mart and bought a bottle jack and used that to push down on top of the FPM so it would seat. after that i removed the bottle jack and i had just enough clearance to slip the snap ring on around all five tabs. it was a major PITA but with a small screwdriver i was able to push the snap ring around all of the the locking tabs. it is installed perfectly straight; fuel line inlet/outlets are pointing to the fuel lines and the tab on top of the FPM is in the 'groove' it's supposed to sit in.

i went and filled up with gas and there was none leaking out (i left the access panel off to make sure). gas gauge is reading correctly as well, i'm happy :thumb:

it's funny you mention the leaking gas part. my friend replaced his on his 2000 GTP and gave up trying to get the snap ring on correctly. whenever he fills up gas leaks out lol.

a little off topic, but man i like driving the Regal GS more than the Audi. i think i must be getting old because i'm starting to get sick of manual transmissions. anymore i'd rather just put it in gear and GO.

thanks!

--------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
1998 Buick Regal GS - 3800 SII Supercharged/HM 4T65E-HD
2000 Audi A6 Quattro - 2.7T/6-speed manual, 100% stock

[J&H Ryan]

Haha, I just noticed that the site "----"ed out me saying c ock.

You must be getting old - I liked the balance of having the S2000 and the Buick. Could have fun, jam some gears when I wanted to, then ride the (still fairly quick) couch when I just wasn't in the mood. My wife prefers just being in the middle with say a Mazda 6.

[TurboSedan]

ever since i replaced the fuel pump it's a ----- to start :confused2: if i shut it off and restart it within a few minutes it fires right up but any longer than that it can take up to 5 seconds of cranking. is there something i could have screwed up when installing the fuel pump or could this be a bad FPR?

any ideas?

thanks again guys.

oh btw, my friends and i just started a new GM W-body.com forum for anyone who might be interested. covers all '88 to present Buick Regal & '97+ Century, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Intrigue, Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo and Impala, Pontiac Grand Prix etc.

gmwbody.com (http://www.gmwbody.com)

--------------------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
1998 Buick Regal GS - L67/4T65E-HD
2000 Audi A6 Quattro - 2.7T/6-speed

[black86glhs]

It sounds like the check valve at the top of the assembly isn't sealing. It is supposed to seal closed when the pump stops running to keep the fuel line full. When you go to start it, the pump doesn't have to fill the whole fuel system. Also makes for faster starts. My friends Lumina did it for 2 years and never failed to start or killed the pump. Car is still running.
Most times rust or dirt gets under the check ball and holds it open.

[iTurbo]

^^Thanks Bryan! Is there any way I can verify check valve operation with the fuel pump module removed??

Here I am working on my brother Josh's (TurboSedan) Regal GS. Like Josh had already stated above, ever since we put the new Racetronix/Walbro fuel pump in from PRJ Performance it was a ----- to start. It seemed to slowly get worse and worse until it was so bad that I had to go through three cranking cycles until finally it would start up and run fine. It would start back immediately if you restarted within a couple minutes. After that, you had to crank it over while the fuel system built pressure back up.

Well finally the fuel pump died while I was delivering pizza a couple weeks ago. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve underhood and sure enough, it only tops out at about 20 psi. Car will start up but sputter and die within ten seconds. So today I pulled the fuel pump assembly out of the tank via the access in the trunk. Took all of fifteen minutes! I know Josh and I had a hell of a time getting that thing in there but it seemed to come out easily enough. I also extracted the fuel pump itself from the hangar assembly without breaking anything.

Now what to do about the fuel pump replacement... I checked prices at NAPA and they are $3-400 for the entire fuel pump module! I think I would rather just replace the pump, but the Walbro pump alone at PRJ is $150. The cheapest I could find for the pump alone was at Rock Auto at $60 for a Performance Electric brand replacement. What would you all suggest?

[iTurbo]

I went out to the garage to look at the fuel pump module again. I tried blowing through through the ports on top of the assembly that the quick disconnects connect to. The middle port appears to have a check valve on the underside of the flange and sure enough it does not completely seal as I blow back through it. I also found the 3/8 corrugated flex hose on the pump output has a small crack so it was leaking fuel out the discharge hose as well. Looks like I'm going to have to buy a whole new module.

[J&H Ryan]

I have a known good module if you need one.

[iTurbo]

Heck yeah I'll take it! Would much rather just buy a pump than the whole darn thing but the check valve does not appear to be separately serviceable. Just send me a PM with how much you are wanting for it. Thanks Ryan!

[turbovanman]

Heck yeah I'll take it! Would much rather just buy a pump than the whole darn thing but the check valve does not appear to be separately serviceable. Just send me a PM with how much you are wanting for it. Thanks Ryan!

It sucks, they are just a mass of plastic and hoses. I tried to just do the pump in my wifes Jimmy, bit her badly as the flex hose blew off, stranded her and the kids on a hot day, I got an earful for that.

[black86glhs]

It sucks, they are just a mass of plastic and hoses. I tried to just do the pump in my wifes Jimmy, bit her badly as the flex hose blew off, stranded her and the kids on a hot day, I got an earful for that.That only happens to hacks, you know that, right??


:lol::lol::lol:

[J&H Ryan]

That only happens to hacks, you know that, right??


:lol::lol::lol:
ouch. PM sent Jeremy

[black86glhs]

I guess it would mean more if i said it happens to me all the time, too??!!


:lol:

[sabrina]

I agree that you need to lube the crap out of it.