Which mopar V8 is best to turbocharge?

[BadAssPerformance]

Just curious which mopar V8 is best to turbocharge?

Don't get me wrong, a twin turbo aluminum 572 HEMI would kick azz, but looking through the history books, is there an older mopar small or big block that would be prefered for turbocharging?

I would think the 340 would be good as it is a good RPM motor, and turbo's like RPM. Any other thoughts?

[GLHS592]

I wouldn't think that any of them would be more suited than another. There is truly "no replacement for displacement" as the old saying goes. Turbocharging/supercharging is just a good substitute. I've seen several street driven boosted V-8s that can run 10's or better. That's hard to do with a 4 banger. I would think any well built turbocharged 440 would make more power than an equally built 340.

[BadAssPerformance]

RPM helps too... a 440 is only ~25% more cubes, so if the 340 can rev ~25% higher, it should make the same power?

Anybody know what typical 340, 440, 383, etc redlines are?

[Frank]

RPM helps too... a 440 is only ~25% more cubes, so if the 340 can rev ~25% higher, it should make the same power?


you have a good point there JT. if i had access to my calculator, i could truely answer that question.

[TrrboJeep]

I'd lean towards a 440ci smog motor... they've already got low compression. :nod: Forget about rpm, if you use twin turbos and keep 'em on the small side you'll get full boost down low and won't have a need to spin to 6K. You could probably get 800ft/ lbs of torque pretty damn easy.

[8valves]

I'd lean towards a 440ci smog motor... they've already got low compression. :nod: Forget about rpm, if you use twin turbos and keep 'em on the small side you'll get full boost down low and won't have a need to spin to 6K. You could probably get 800ft/ lbs of torque pretty damn easy.

I'm in aggreance. There's no point in trying to take a motor that doesn't want the high rpms into the high rpms!

I've personally seen 340 based small blocks in A bodies go 9's on the jug, and 440's spin 9K rpms and make gobs of power... I guess it's all in the build.

Are you asking what the stock rev limits, or at least usable rpms, are for those engines, or what they're capable of? 383's would probably be cheap and easy to come by, but not exactly the worlds elite performance engine as I'm sure you know. :p

If it's a budget build, I'd do a low rpm, monster torque 440. If it's balls to the wall, probably still a 440! But there are numberous small inch (read, 347 and under) Fox bodies around here running single T66's or even a GT42R on one going 8.9's at 156 mph. This is a street driven car as well. If yu've got the money the small inch motors can get it done for sure.

Aaron Miller

[TIIICARAVAN]

wasnt there some dodge motorhome, camper type vans that had twin turbo 440's in them?

[GLHS592]

Well, a stock 440 makes alot more power than a stock 340 even though the small block revs higher.

[Kerry K]

Hi Guys ! New to this list.
I have been thinking about turbo charging a 400 to go in my Dak.( as soon as my T2 conversion is finished) If there ever was a motor begging to be boosted... Low compression 8.2:1,(TRW forged replacements are closer to 7.8:1) large bores, short stroke. almost perfect rod ratio. Toss in a 383 steel crank and a little head work w/ss valves......

[fleckster]

I haven't mentioned too much about the long term plans to twin remote-mount turbo a 440 in my '74 New Yorker Brougham coupe.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b98/fleckster/2db62eee.jpg
It is a low compression 440 and the block and lower end should easily be able to handle say 10psi. Remote mounting them (like the Squires Turbo Systems design) should make packaging much easier and there will be no need for custom exhaust headers. I figured that I could use my turbo 2.2 experience to make it work and maybe even use a couple old T1 Garretts. The largest expense will have to be the carb or fuel injection, which ever I end up running. I think that 500lb-ft in an otherwise stockish motor should be a reasonable goal. And at 4600lbs base weight it should need it at low rpm!

[89acclaim]

How about one of the 400s 4.24" bore and 3.38" stroke.:) Can put a 440/383 crank in it if you really want displacement. Though a 340 turbo would be very nice, and be kind of light.

[Millerman340]

To much power in a stock block BB mopar and it will crack in the main webs like a sb ford, that's why the the hemi blocks are cross bolted to stiffen that area .the early 360 blocks have thicker cylinder walls as they were cast with the 340 water jacket cores but a smaller bore. Dave.

[Kerry K]

Never seen a BB Mopar with web failure. Lots of guys out there running 250hp nitrous systems with stock blocks and insane cylinder pressures.
I remember reading somewhere that Chrysler installed the cross bolted main caps more as a marketing ploy to counter chebbys "4 bolt main" not because it needed main web support.

[GLHS592]

^
I agree. I've never seen a Mopar big block with any type of web failure.

[Millerman340]

Here I swiped it from Bcr products web site. I'll look for more stuff to give you further info. I for one Don't need to blow smoke, I spend half my time over at moparts as I'm a old school mopar guy first and aT-m guy 2nd. (All BB Dodge motors have a serious problem in the main webbing and cap area if you use cast iron heads and or make 500 plus horsepower. The heads have a poorly designed quench area and no matter what you do to modify them they tend to pre-ignite or detonate the air fuel mixture. This in the long run tends to crack blocks and cranks then it eventually will break the main caps themselves. I have been building BB Mopars for nearly twenty years and kept running into this problem. What I found out was if I built a high HP Mopar with aluminum rods it always lived a longer life than a steel rod motor. What I found is the rod acted as sort of a dead blow hammer and took up the shock of the detonation and or in the case of aluminum head motors the combustion shock and did not transfer it to the mains as badly.)

[Millerman340]

here's one more post (,If I was you I wouldn't even consider using a stock block for this project. I have a 452 based 440 motor with stock B1-BS heads with 14.7 to 1 comp. ratio that makes 627 hp. That motor had split the #2 main web on the previous block with very few runs. I didn't build the motor originally, I took it in trade on a bracket motor and took it apart to inspect it as the customer had bought a bracket car with the motor in it knowing that the motor was broken. It has BME aluminum rods, Crane roller cam and rockers. I will be buying a Bull Dog block as soon as they are available for my next high output B)

[Millerman340]

Here' another (RB block at a littless than 600 HP, however it had been in service for 19 racing seasons. #4 main web cracked into cylinders6 & 8. Motor did not fail it started getting water in the oil and then I found the problem. ) I'm just searching and copy/paste 'ng them

[Millerman340]

(The biggest issue with stock B and RB blocks beyond 600hp is cap walk, with the resultant metal transfer. Alum maincaps help, or alum rods, and help to cushion the shock loads that are transferred to the main webs, which sometimes crack. From the attachment you can see that there's little else that can economically and practically done with the exception of a main stud girdle that ties in the main studs with the pan rail bolts. IIRC, Chenowith racing offers such a kit. Would yours incorporate the maincaps with a girdle as a single piece? )

[Millerman340]

http://img397.imageshack.us/img397/4647/440block9ts.th.png (http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=440block9ts.png)

[super60dodge]

I worked in a shop for a few years and have seen only one bigblock brake on the dyno and that was a 1700hp Hemi w/ Indy Hemi heads. It was a result of a bad Rod stud. I've also seen a BB with BME aluminum rods w/ 780hp and 745trq on pump gas with the Origanal B1's get 28,000 miles on it before a rebuild. The only reason it was rebuilt is because a wheel bearing siezed and caused a fire burning the back half of the car up. While the car was being rebuilt the motor did as well. I will say there are better casting years than others but if you build the motor right it will treat you right. Just my .02

Joe

[Scottmon]

400 Bigblock would probably be best. Has a bore bigger than a 440, plus the shorter deck height makes it stiffer than a 440. Make a 451 and have the best of both worlds.

[Millerman340]

The early 400 block(#230) 72-73 block is the strongest in the web area. Dave

[440trk]

(All BB Dodge motors have a serious problem in the main webbing and cap area if you use cast iron heads and or make 500 plus horsepower.

That statment right there is just laughable...:confused:

Being an Avid Moparts member myself (same screen name there too), I would suggest you go to Moparts main web page, and look up the default 500hp engine by Fast68Plymouth.

600 HP cap walk? sure. But the above statement implies that if you build a 525HP 440 you're gonna kill the main webbing. I'm not buying that one bit. COULD it happen? Sure. But then I've seen STOCK 318's let go too.
WILL it happen? Probably not.


If you want any info on Twin Turbo'ing a 440, talk to the original builders of the Purple Haze (the car is now owned by the CokeBottleKid on Moparts). Yes, I'm aware that they were not running a stock block in the Haze...but that car has also turned 8.17 1/4 mile times, and is street legal. I'm quite sure a TT 440 would live a long and happy life if properly built.

Feets IS running a stock block in his TT440, and last I know, aside from getting the Fuel Injection up and running, his car is surviving fine.

The BB Mopar deserves a lot more credit than you are giving it.

[440trk]

wasnt there some dodge motorhome, camper type vans that had twin turbo 440's in them?

Not Twin Turbo, but yes, a single Turbo was available on some Dodge/Winnabego Big Block motorhomes. They weren't really "performance" oriented and would not so well in a performance situation...but they did make a bit more torque and probably helped the fuel economy just a wee bit.

[GLHS592]

Not Twin Turbo, but yes, a single Turbo was available on some Dodge/Winnabego Big Block motorhomes. They weren't really "performance" oriented and would not so well in a performance situation...but they did make a bit more torque and probably helped the fuel economy just a wee bit.

You know what this is?

[440trk]

You know what this is?

Well that looks like the carb plate from a motorhome Turbo setup. :) They were a draw-through design. The carb would have set on the top of that (obviously) and that plate would have bolted on where the carb usually would have been. Think LONG carb studs...and that plate as a carb spacer.

Pretty cool piece ya have there.:thumb:

[Snailpower]

440trk, I am hurt you forgot about me! J/K

I personally love small blocks (namely 360s) just for ease of building. I still have lots of room under the hood...

[GLHS592]

Well that looks like the carb plate from a motorhome Turbo setup. :) They were a draw-through design. The carb would have set on the top of that (obviously) and that plate would have bolted on where the carb usually would have been. Think LONG carb studs...and that plate as a carb spacer.

Pretty cool piece ya have there.:thumb:

I also have the turbo. I was going to use it, but it can't be too efficient. So, the guy I bought it from wants it back.

[Millerman340]

That statment right there is just laughable...:confused:

Being an Avid Moparts member myself (same screen name there too), I would suggest you go to Moparts main web page, and look up the default 500hp engine by Fast68Plymouth.

600 HP cap walk? sure. But the above statement implies that if you build a 525HP 440 you're gonna kill the main webbing. I'm not buying that one bit. COULD it happen? Sure. But then I've seen STOCK 318's let go too.
WILL it happen? Probably not.


If you want any info on Twin Turbo'ing a 440, talk to the original builders of the Purple Haze (the car is now owned by the CokeBottleKid on Moparts). Yes, I'm aware that they were not running a stock block in the Haze...but that car has also turned 8.17 1/4 mile times, and is street legal. I'm quite sure a TT 440 would live a long and happy life if properly built.

Feets IS running a stock block in his TT440, and last I know, aside from getting the Fuel Injection up and running, his car is surviving fine.

The BB Mopar deserves a lot more credit than you are giving it.
First of all the quote is from bcr and it says that they crack from detonation and aluminum caps or rods or heads help with the shock waves. All the quotes I posted are from moparts so I guess they have not had those problems? I for one am going to use a siamiese r3 for my block of choice ,at least they are alot more forgiving .Dont take it personal, Go back and look on moparts and read the posts. I LOVE MOPARS ALSO.!!!!!! :) Dave. PS We can go over there and take a poll.

[Millerman340]

To much power in a stock block BB mopar and it will crack in the main webs like a sb ford, that's why the the hemi blocks are cross bolted to stiffen that area .the early 360 blocks have thicker cylinder walls as they were cast with the 340 water jacket cores but a smaller bore. Dave.
This is my quote. See where it says(To much power) Nether one was a recommendation just a fact. This is a true statement, Right? Dave.

[440trk]

First of all the quote is from bcr and it says that they crack from detonation under high horsepower (Sorry 500 is not ) and aluminum caps or rods help with the shock waves.

Whoa...easy Dave. The BCR quote you posted STATED 500hp. That's what I thought was laughable.



All the quotes I posted are from moparts so I guess they have not had those problems?

I'm not saying that webbing issues don't exist...and I don't doubt that anyone has had webbing problems in HIGH HP applications. All I did was reply to the BCR quote you posted.


I for one am going to use a siamiese r3 for my block of choice ,at least they are alot more forgiving

Oh, I'm aware of your Droptop project, and your quest for the R3. I don't post much in the Unlawfl forum, but I do check it out out from time to time. :)


Dont take it personal

Hey, we're all friends here...I'm not trying to stir up anything.

[440trk]

This is my quote. See where it says(To much power) Nether one was a recommendation just a fact. This is a true statement, Right? Dave.


Yes...true statement. I never was arguing that.

This is the BCR quote that I WAS talking about.


All BB Dodge motors have a serious problem in the main webbing and cap area if you use cast iron heads and or make 500 plus horsepower.

Re-read that quote from BCR.
The way I see it, they are saying any BB Dodge motor with cast iron heads, regardless of HP will have webbing problems. It says "cast iron heads AND/OR 500+ hp." That's laughable. Don't you agree? According to them, my Charger R/T has a "serious problem in the main webbing" because it has cast iron heads....never mind the fact it might only put out 425hp at BEST in it's current configuration.... That statement could also be read as a 520hp Eddy headed 440 have main webbing problems as well. Do you agree with that?


Not trying to be argumentative...just trying to explain exactly what I was replying to. :)

[440trk]

440trk, I am hurt you forgot about me! J/K

I personally love small blocks (namely 360s) just for ease of building. I still have lots of room under the hood...



:o :o :o :o :bolt:

Ooops! Sorry. Won't happen again. ;)

[Millerman340]

No problem my bad! After re reading it it does imply that if you don't switch to there main caps that you will have catastrophic block damage! Yes you are right on that. Like I said I copied it from there site.With detonation being a issue with a turbo engine (With a lot of boost and iron heads )the added stress on the bottom end might last long with the 440 block. the "230 " block would go along way at keeping things together. With the eddy heads or any aluminum head there is less chance of detonation there for less chance of web cracking. From what I've read in researching for my engine is any detonation is the real killer! Run it lean it just melts pistons, detonate and things start breaking fast. For my bottom end I have a la enterprises kryptonite 180*crank & billet cam from one of the 2001 Chrysler lmp9000 Le mans race cars. a set of Carrillo 6.300 rods with carr-sps 7/16 bolts. Still waiting on a block to start building. For some reason when I think turbo car I think 15 -20 lbs boost as we do with the 4 cylinder td's will just rip a stock v8 to pieces.:blah::focus:

[Millerman340]

I have a early 360 on a engine stand That I was going to use but with a pair of sc61's I'm sure that It will brake with that much boost.Dave.

[440trk]

Hey no problem. :)

Um, yea...15-20psi + stock 440 block = BOOM!.

LOL!


That's an ungodly amount of HP. :faint: But it sure would be fun.:thumb:

[Millerman340]

:amen:

[BoostMonkey]

I would say the best mopar block to rebuild would be the slant six. Easy header fab up, easy turbo mount, just got to convert to TBI then megasquirt it. Along with an MSD ignition system and you would be set. Rebuilt the engine with custom forged pistons, and you can easily push 450 HP out of them. Think about the Grant Nationals. About the same displacement and they are throwing out 9/10 second cars quite regularly.
One day I do plan on doing this and throwing it into a dart or other A body. Should be able to run 10-11's when I'm done. This is way into the future, but I will do it!

You said best engine, not the one that would make the most HP! lol

Michael

[BoostMonkey]

Oooops, you said V8 not engine. My bad.

Michael

[jimpotent]

RPM helps too... a 440 is only ~25% more cubes, so if the 340 can rev ~25% higher, it should make the same power?

Anybody know what typical 340, 440, 383, etc redlines are?

440's and 383's you need to stay below 6500rpms with stock rods and crank.
The 340 I would not rev much higher either. My 572 makes 1000hp at 5700rpms but I go through the traps at 6800rpms BUT I also have a bottom end that is worth as much as a small farm:lol: My 70 dart I have a p600b procharger on a small block 360 and will only rev it to 6000 rpms:thumb: .
The thing is I know of many of guys who rev there big blocks 426/440 to over 7200 rpms. There is a couple of guys with 340's at the track I go to that rev them up to 9000rpms, So It all depends on the bottom end Heads ,Cam profile, fuel, spark and where the motor that you build makes power.

[Moof]

I wouldn't mind doing up a 340. Fuel injection conversion, twin T03. Sure, they're small, but I'd like to be able to say "Yeah, I have a twin turbo Mopar"

[SwiftTech]

I've posted these pics before but I feel this thread warrants bringing them back. This is in my uncle's boat, 21' cabin cruiser w/jet drive. Its a 426 hemi thats been destroked to 396cubic inches. It runs on a Haltech standalone system. I'm not sure how much boost he's running on it

[Clay]

Interesting fuel rail setup he has!! :thumb:

[Lotza Boost]

Use a 400 if you are building a big block. You would benefit from a lighter crank and con-rods no matter what they are made of, lighter pushrods, shorter and stronger cylinders, large bore short stroke with Edelbrock or better heads. The heads would work so much better on a 400 than a 440 using the same set up...you would have to do some serious port work to make up the diff between the two.
I have a 470 BB and couldn't imagine TT'n it. It is your basic 400 block, 440 steel crank, BB Chevy rods. What ever you build I'm sure it will be a monster.

[TurboJerry]

My 440 is not turbocharged, but it's 13.6:1 compression with stock "LY" rods polished / shotpeened, and stock forged crank. Has 600 passes, and street raced alot.(never trailered) Still runs to this day. It's about 650 HP. Ran 10.30's at 133 (easy no's to remember)at LACR in palmdale CA in a 3400 lbs Dart. I'd say *most* Mopar V-8's are good for a 600 to 1000 hp turbo combo. I think for a street car a 360 would get the best gas mileage, and an easy 500 hp with a smooth idle. (using stock rods / cast crank) I shifted the 440 at 7200 by the way with a 3/8" oil pick up / 7 qt Milodon pan.

[puppet]

I would say the best mopar block to rebuild would be the slant six. Easy header fab up, easy turbo mount, just got to convert to TBI then megasquirt it. Along with an MSD ignition system and you would be set. Rebuilt the engine with custom forged pistons, and you can easily push 450 HP out of them. Think about the Grant Nationals. About the same displacement and they are throwing out 9/10 second cars quite regularly.
One day I do plan on doing this and throwing it into a dart or other A body. Should be able to run 10-11's when I'm done. This is way into the future, but I will do it!

You said best engine, not the one that would make the most HP! lol

MichaelFunny you should mention this. Don't know if you remember this guy:
http://cliffordperformance.net/index.html
He's since passed away but the company still exists. If I'm not mistaken, he used to make a supercharger for the inline six too.

[Clay]

and I believe Ive seen an old Clifford turbo kit as well

[ottawa rogue]

To much power in a stock block BB mopar and it will crack in the main webs like a sb ford, that's why the the hemi blocks are cross bolted to stiffen that area .the early 360 blocks have thicker cylinder walls as they were cast with the 340 water jacket cores but a smaller bore. Dave.

that's true for the 302/5.0 blocks, but not the windsor blocks-especially my C90E block('69 vintage)
Ford would have been better off making the 302 with a windsor size block IMO,
but they tend to do things their own way over at the blue oval.
it's a lot less likely with a good 351 block, lot more meat in the webs

OH CRAP!!!-just outed myself...... ok, ok i'm a ford guy who just happens to own a TD:D

[hemihead9]

You asked which Mopar V8 is best to turbocharge, the Hemi. The heads have valves accross from each other the plug is dead center. In stock form they flow great. Look at top fuel motors if there was a better motor to supercharge they would be using it, no engine in their ranks can put a hemi on the trailer.

[Clay]

Ok, how about "which mopar v8 is best to turbocharge that a normal person can afford?" ;)

[hemihead9]

I am somewhat normal and have two, neither has a turbo. Took me a while to build, but nothing looks better!

[Clay]

Ok, then how about "which mopar v8 is best to turbocharge that a cheap arse turbo mopar guy can afford?" hehehehe j/k!

[hemihead9]

If your dollars down go with 318. You can get them for free.

[SwiftTech]

Ok, then how about "which mopar v8 is best to turbocharge that a cheap arse turbo mopar guy can afford?" hehehehe j/k!

I say work with what you got. If you have a small block run with it, got a big block to start with, run that. Just make sure you build it to live with boost. And most importantly have fun doing it.

[Directconnection]

I'm in aggreance. There's no point in trying to take a motor that doesn't want the high rpms into the high rpms!

I've personally seen 340 based small blocks in A bodies go 9's on the jug, and 440's spin 9K rpms and make gobs of power... I guess it's all in the build.

Are you asking what the stock rev limits, or at least usable rpms, are for those engines, or what they're capable of? 383's would probably be cheap and easy to come by, but not exactly the worlds elite performance engine as I'm sure you know. :p

If it's a budget build, I'd do a low rpm, monster torque 440. If it's balls to the wall, probably still a 440! But there are numberous small inch (read, 347 and under) Fox bodies around here running single T66's or even a GT42R on one going 8.9's at 156 mph. This is a street driven car as well. If yu've got the money the small inch motors can get it done for sure.

Aaron Miller


There's a guy at my local track and also has his machine work done at the shop I work at... he has a 340 Duster that runs mid 5's in the 1/8th mile. No stroker smallblock and in the neighborhood of stock displacement (I think it is 340 still) and no nitrous either. I can only imagine the potential that a properly done 340 would have with turbocharging. That may be my goal in the future..but today at work, one of the race engine assemblers has access for me to get a 540CI (440) shortblock with only one season on it and all freshened up for $1,500. A set of $3,000 but wrecked 906 heads (major portwork) possibly for free...and damaged Indy rockers... hmm... easy 650hp for cheap for the barracuda...

[Directconnection]

I am somewhat normal and have two, neither has a turbo. Took me a while to build, but nothing looks better!

Yup! My parents had a 426 Challenger and then a 472" hemi. Dollar per dollar... better off with a wedge unless running all out. The person who has the 540 motor runs a mud buggy. It's a 540ci KB Hemi with heads off of a nitro funny car. 42psi boost on alcohol and has run 20% nitro in the past. In a mud buggy! He says... if ya gotta race...gotta be a Hemi. Need something to get it there...better be a ford. Oh well...can't win 'em all.


If I had the cash, definately a turboed hemi would be my 1st choice over anything.

[Directconnection]

I worked in a shop for a few years and have seen only one bigblock brake on the dyno and that was a 1700hp Hemi w/ Indy Hemi heads. It was a result of a bad Rod stud. I've also seen a BB with BME aluminum rods w/ 780hp and 745trq on pump gas with the Origanal B1's get 28,000 miles on it before a rebuild. The only reason it was rebuilt is because a wheel bearing siezed and caused a fire burning the back half of the car up. While the car was being rebuilt the motor did as well. I will say there are better casting years than others but if you build the motor right it will treat you right. Just my .02

Joe



He's talking stock block.

My good friend cracked a 440 block at around the 475hp mark years ago. I forget the vintage, but it was the years that didn't have the added material between the freeze plug cores. He later ran a different block which I think was a '68 that had about 130,000 miles on it. Freshened it up with new rings/bearings. Put a MP 509 cam in it, intake, headers, gears, etc... and tuned it somehow to run a best of 12.09 in a '66 Belvedere (not a light car). He logged 100s upon 100s of passes without one failure (I think over 1,500) and the engine still runs, but sits as a more potent one replaced it (now runs mid to high 11s). Both engines at around and above the 500hp marks.


Where I work, they are telling me 650-700hp and a stock block (the better ones with the most material in the cylinders) and the 2-bolt mains. Haven't seen a failure ever in the 25 years of business and 1,000s of race engines built.

[Millerman340]

My turbo block,Don't think it will break!:D

[Directconnection]

If your heads are "out of the box" I suggest taking them to be flowbenched. You'd be amazed at what they *don't* flow. I forget what model, but they were 440 MP heads...

[Millerman340]

Yea, they will get a little work before the engine goes together.The w9's do ok unported ,but with twins I don't see much of a problem with flow:eyebrows:

[Directconnection]

I've been thinking about my barracuda lately since I work around nothing but v-8s. There's just so much for the SBC and Fords. We get Edelbrock to make heads for us and they are a good head, but flow what...280cfm? Did you know that there are a few companies making 410-430cfm heads for the small block Fords? Frikkin' crazy, huh? Nitro funny car heads flow 520-ish cfm!

[Millerman340]

I've decided to join in on turbo ford crowd and use any stuff that will make my life easier. Mustang efi harness, t/b programmable computer ect.There is sooo much stuff for the 5.0's might as well use it against them! My crank has 2.00" Chevy size journals ,So I can use more common rods & pins.

[Millerman340]

The w9's should flow close to 300 cfm so there no slouch but we'll see what they do with some work.
LIFT-----AS-CAST--------PORTED
------------IN/EX-----------IN/EX
.100”------72.5/N/A--------74.2/N/A
.200”---129.4/103.5-----141.5/102.8
.300”---189.8/146.6-----200.1/158.7
.400”---239.8/172.5-----245.0/203.6
.450”---265.6/176.0-----276.0/215.6
.500”---288.1/182.8-----303.6/226.0
.550”—293.2/182.8-----332.2/233.6
.600”---295.0/184.6-----349.8/241.5
.650”---295.0/184.6-----370.2/247.7
.700”---295.0/184.6-----379.2/251.1
.750”----N/A/N/A--------387.5/258.1

[speedyshelby]

What is the max boost on a stock 360 carb 84?

[Koreth]

Just curious which mopar V8 is best to turbocharge?

Don't get me wrong, a twin turbo aluminum 572 HEMI would kick azz, but looking through the history books, is there an older mopar small or big block that would be prefered for turbocharging?

I would think the 340 would be good as it is a good RPM motor, and turbo's like RPM. Any other thoughts?

I'll start off my post by saying I don't know a damn thing about V8s, beyond that they are a type of engine with two banks of 4 cylinders opposed at an angle < 180^, sharing a common crankshaft. I realize that is the most asiniely obvious property of a V8, but that is all I am really willing to give myself credit for, having never touched one.

That said, I can think of a few answers. If one was going for all out balls to the wall power, I would think you would want the biggest bigblock you can get, and bore and stroke it before adding the turbos. High boost on big displacement could produce some stupidly insane power. Haven't N/A big blocks made 1000+ hp on less than 500 CUI?. Why couldn't 600+ CUI on boost do more than twice that? However, I doubt such a setup would be anything less than damn expensive.

If one wanted to take a more realistic approach to the crazy idea of putting turbos on a V8, I think you would want the engine that has the best aftermarket support. Using off-the-shelf parts or mostly-off-the-shelf parts is probably going to be alot more cost effective unless you have free or cheap access to machine/fabrication shops. Now, not having worked on any V8s, I don't know if smallblocks or bigblocks have better support, or if one family engine (LA, Hemi, etc.) has better support than the others.

Personally? I like the idea of turbocharghing a smallblock. I like that a smallblock can be more easily be shoehorned into engine compartments a V8 has no business being in. I like the fact that a smallblock is likely to weigh less than a bigblock. And although I know it shouldn't be a considertaion in a custom performance application, I like the idea that a smallblock will likely get better gas mileage if I decide to build a street legal vehicle.

Now, taking my above advice about using an engine that good aftermarket support, this would probably mean an LA or Magnum 360, right? Well, even if turbo mopar V8s aren't common, the LA and Magnum smallblocks have been built up and made to go fast. I want to do something a bit more unique. The 4.7 V8 which replaced the 318/5.2 has been more or less completely neglected on the performance side of thigns with the popularity and success of the New Hemi motors. I know that at least one person has turbochared the 4.7 in his Daktoa (the name escapes me right now) with success, so I know it can be done. Plus, the 4.7L is lighter and produces more power than the motor it replaced. It is also SOHC, though I don't know if that would be to my advantage or not in comparison to an OHV setup. I would love to twin turbo a 4.7L, convert my Daytona to RWD and go play pro-touring with The Big Red Camaro and her ilk.

But that is just me, and I haven't even finished building my first 2.5L turbo yet, so take from that what you will.

[Whorse]

I'd have to agree with the 360 as well.

[moparman76_69]

nobody has mentioned the fact the the 340 has negative deck clearance (piston comes out of the block at TDC). The 340s to my understanding are high compression so to me small block wise i'd go with a 318, they are cheap and plentiful so if you blow the bottom end out of a couple until you get a good setup you won'd be out much. I've contemplated trying to do single turbo 318.

[turbospirites]

what about the 340 T/A motor it has 4 bolt main's and mopar performance remakes the 340 T/A Block's again!

http://www.mopar.com/m_perf_subcat2Check.jsp?SubSubSubGrpID=222&dummy5=1167363262701

[Millerman340]

The real T/A block has provisions for the 4 bolt mains but never came with them. They were 2 bolt with filled webbing, 20 lbs heaver made just to get the block approved for racing. So you can say that they were the first s/b racing block before the x block that was patterned after them.

[mech1nxh]

The real T/A block has provisions for the 4 bolt mains but never came with them. They were 2 bolt with filled webbing, 20 lbs heaver made just to get the block approved for racing. So you can say that they were the first s/b racing block before the x block that was patterned after them.


lol...now that brings back memmorys.....I turned a bunch of 273 commando
blocks into benches....(#3 main saddle cracks) forged crank good, light weight
block...bad.. moved on to old Hemi stuff..and shamless plug here...
really looking forward to see your 180deg crank, needle bearing cam s/b monster #'s:)

[Millerman340]

lol...now that brings back memmorys.....I turned a bunch of 273 commando
blocks into benches....(#3 main saddle cracks) forged crank good, light weight
block...bad.. moved on to old Hemi stuff..and shamless plug here...
really looking forward to see your 180deg crank, needle bearing cam s/b monster #'s:)
Well here's some more titanium eye candy for you then:eyebrows:

[The Pope]

I am doing a single turbo 318 this winter with a smaller 60 trim T04B and a .98 AF T04 turbine, 4" x 24" x 12" intercooler. A blow through carb setup much like what guys running the blowers use. The 318s had heavy steel rods and a steel crank. The 318-3 has a heat treated crank and is said to have been used up to 1,100 HP and it came with forged pistons. The price of good rods and cranks has dropped a lot, building a V8 is cheaper than ever before. As for a big block the early blocks are weak and the later motor home type are strongest. The best choice is the early 400 block for the strongest block, then buy a custom 440 crank setup for it. A great place to look at for BB info is here.

http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

I am buying there 528 kit for my 440 this spring for my Challenger. It has been off the road long enough. Edelbrock has cornered the market on flow per $ in Mopars, I'll be using more of there heads from now on.