Rebuilding 87 t-2 block, looking for input

[mikes87t2]

I have decided to have my 87 t-2 block rebuilt. I have way to much crank case pressure ever since I put the stage 5 cal on and all the other items I have put on this car. I have a 87 2 dr sundance that was converted over to a t-2 setup with the following items. Ported one piece intake manifold, ported exhaust manifold. 3 inch swing valve, 3 inch exhaust, no cat. Large intercooler, 3 bar map, TU fuel rail, +- 40 injectors, fuel pressure reg, K&N cone filter. Turbonetics turbo. TU coilant and oil lines for turbo. rear mounted battery, 413 tranny is getting a rebuild as with this setup slipage is occuring in second to third gear shift. I had it on the dyno last week and carank case pressure is killing the horse power I believe. I am getting 430 ft/lbs of Torque at 4700 rpm. 174 HP at the wheels, 230hp at the flywheel. I I will be going with forged pistons and rings arp bolts for the head, and caps. I will have the oil port ported to match. WWould you suggest having the pistons and rods balanced as well as the crank? Any other mods that others may suggest. I know TU has a 89 short block but I am trying to save a bit of money on this build. From my understanding from talking with chris I should be getting closer to 300 horse with my current setup and that the stock pistons and rings are not holding up to the FWD stage 5 cal. I am looking to do this build within the next couple weeks and want to get as much input as possible. I would appreciate your suggestions or thoughts. Thanks

[moparzrule]

Balancing is not absolutely necessary. Have the crank turned, get prepped T2 rods from TU, and get Wiseco's. Thats my setup with about 325 WHP or so, no failures of any kinda on the shortblock.
Some people say if the crank looks OK just to have it polished. I found out the hard way, my bearings got torn up after a thousand miles for no apparent reason. Turns out the crank was bent, and they don't check that with just a polish. So get the crank turned, it's way worth it to have a nice fresh surface and to make sure the crank isn't bent.

Oh and don't waste your money for ARP bolts for the head, they are still torque to yield so you throw them away after a couple uses. Go straight for the ARP head studs and torque them to 85 ft/lbs with the lube.

[turbovanman²]

Get the rods resized of course with the ARP's, I disagree with Mat, get it balanced, the rods are way out and the cranks aren't that good either. I also disagree on getting it turned, have it checked first. Removing metal makes it a tad weaker.
I would avoid the ARP main studs, you most likely will need an align hone and they aren't cheap, for 300 whp, not really needed.
Get it decked.
Agreed with the ARP head studs.
Have the head ported and use some +1mm valves, this will give you some more power and not have to work the engine so hard.
I personally reuse the stock oil pumps, I find they are superior to anything out there, just take it apart and look for scoring, if not, put it back together with this relief valve kit-P3690944

[moparzrule]

I'm pretty sure TU balances their rods. Everytime I've ever had a crank turned the bottom end stayed together. Everytime I didn't, it blew up.
The crank in my engine is turned 20 on the mains and 10 on the rods. 4000 miles of super harsh abuse(7000 RPM and 300+ WHP) and going strong with great oil pressure.

Turning a crank 10 under will not weaken it at all for all intensive purposes. We aren't making 500 WHP turning 9000 RPM here.

I agree on not using ARP main studs, it is a wasted expense for 300 HP.

[turbovanman²]

I'm pretty sure TU balances their rods. .

He's not using TU rods, he just says arp bolts, actually I just reread, he doesn't mention what rod or bolts he's using so my first post works, ;)



Everytime I've ever had a crank turned the bottom end stayed together. Everytime I didn't, it blew up.
The crank in my engine is turned 20 on the mains and 10 on the rods. 4000 miles of super harsh abuse(7000 RPM and 300+ WHP) and going strong with great oil pressure.

Turning a crank 10 under will not weaken it at all for all intensive purposes. We aren't making 500 WHP turning 9000 RPM here..

I am not saying it will blow up but everytime you remove metal, it gets a bit weaker. Generally in hipo engines, you go a max of .010" when turning a crank, anymore and you get another crank. For his build, its fine but if it doesn't need turning, don't do it, :nod:

If you engine is letting go due to cranks, find another machine shop, they are not doing there job, :(

[moparzrule]

He's not using TU rods, he just says arp bolts, actually I just reread, he doesn't mention what rod or bolts he's using so my first post works, ;)



He's posting looking for recommendations. I recommended TU rods!

[turbovanman²]

He's posting looking for recommendations. I recommended TU rods!

Then for his goals, I say stock rods, redone with ARP's, :D

[moparzrule]

LOL. I dunno about him but machine shops around here rape you. It was literally cheaper to buy a set from TU than it was to have just the rods resized with ARP bolts. OK not completely cheaper, but the quote was $220. That did not include balancing, or even the bushing replaced!!! AND I had to supply the cores, TU supplies theirs.
I went to all three local machine shops and prices were similar. Best price was $180, but still didn't include bushing replaced and balancing.
For the quality you get from TU, it could not be beat...not even close.

[turbovanman²]

LOL. I dunno about him but machine shops around here rape you. It was literally cheaper to buy a set from TU than it was to have just the rods resized with ARP bolts. OK not completely cheaper, but the quote was $220. That did not include balancing, or even the bushing replaced!!! AND I had to supply the cores, TU supplies theirs.
I went to all three local machine shops and prices were similar. Best price was $180, but still didn't include bushing replaced and balancing.
For the quality you get from TU, it could not be beat...not even close.

True, I guess I am spoiled, our local machine shop is reasonable and of course with shipping, the crappy dollar now, :(

I see TU charges $220 for rods, not bad, balancing included, :nod:

[mikes87t2]

Looks like a siskel and ebert movie review LOL !!! I will look into reworking my existing rods but if it is close to what TU has them for I will get those. As far as the crank is concerned I will have it looked at and go from there. The t-2 block and head is a crate motor from chrysler so who knows what I have to work with. I really do appreciate the suggestions and I can not say I didn't get a difference of opinions here, that is for sure LOL It does give me a sense of direction and what to consider with this build. I can't see going over say 350 horse at any point but want to make sure I have room to play with just in case. Keep the suggestions going I truely do appreciate it . Thanks to all concerned!!!!

[turbovanman²]

What we "suggested", lol, will get you a nice foundation, the rest is like icing on the cake.