Best oil pan to use?

[turbodaytona87]

I have to take off my oil pan to fix a leaking front main seal retainer gasket(which is only a year and 3000 miles old:mad:). Currently I have my TI pan and pickup on there(I built the engine before I got my TII car). Now I also have an extra TII pan and pickup too. Which one is the better one to use?

[turbovanman²]

I have to take off my oil pan to fix a leaking rear main seal retainer. Currently I have my TI pan and pickup on there(I built the engine before I got my TII car). Now I also have an extra TII pan and pickup too. Which one is the better one to use?

What year T1? all 88 and prior T1's and TII's are the same, 89 and up TII's and TBI L body pans are the ones to use if you've removed the balance shafts.

[turbodaytona87]

Its from an 86 TI, the TII is from an 87 Shelby Z

[supercrackerbox]

Should be the same then.

[turbodaytona87]

The one I pulled off the shelby has a slight sump in it(about 1/8-1/4" deep) around the oil pickup

[Juggy]

The one I pulled off the shelby has a slight sump in it(about 1/4-1/2" deep) around the oil pickup


if its like any of the other pans ive seen, then 99% sure its just a dent in the pan

[turbodaytona87]

I doubt it, I'll take pics of it tonight.

[GLHNSLHT2]

Nope, the 87 T2 pans are sumped just like the 88 t2 and 89+ commonblock T2/non-balance shaft pans. Use it. Might want to think about a crank scraper while you've got the pan off :)

[turbodaytona87]

Thanks, I was thinking since I had to take the pan off anyway, that I might as well use the pan with a sump. I assume the vendors have a crank scraper?

[GLHNSLHT2]

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/. Think you can buy direct from there or get the same one's from FWDP. I don't think TU has any but don't quote me.

[rbryant]

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/. Think you can buy direct from there or get the same one's from FWDP. I don't think TU has any but don't quote me.

Have people been able to install crank scrapers on the 2.2/2.5 and not have oil leaks?

As if our pans weren't bad enough now the crank scraper makes them even harder to seal...

-Rich

[GLHNSLHT2]

I've never had a problem getting a pan to seal. I haven't used a scraper yet but plan to, I just have other projects that have gotten in the way.

[turbodaytona87]

The only problem I had is right off the bat, the pan started to leak around the front main seal retainer. Not a real noticeable amount, but it was wet/oily around that area. I just wiped it clean and RTV'd it for the time being, but decided since it was down anyway, now is as good a time as any.

[turbovanman²]

Nope, the 87 T2 pans are sumped just like the 88 t2 and 89+ commonblock T2/non-balance shaft pans. Use it. Might want to think about a crank scraper while you've got the pan off :)

Interesting, never noticed that and I had a TI and TII engine, going to have to look more closely next time, :nod:

[86Shelby]

Have people been able to install crank scrapers on the 2.2/2.5 and not have oil leaks?

Yes, I have. It only leaked once when I stripped out a bolt on accident and thought it would still work since I used some bad---- RTV. Only problem I've had is removing the scraper during service, they stick to the block pretty well.

[GLHNSLHT2]

what's your technique? RTV brand/type? do you like the scraper?

[rbryant]

Yes, I have. It only leaked once when I stripped out a bolt on accident and thought it would still work since I used some bad---- RTV. Only problem I've had is removing the scraper during service, they stick to the block pretty well.

How thick is it? Wouldn't there be an extra space added near where the rubber end pieces on each end meet the scraper?

I honestly haven't tried it but I am pretty sure there was a thread about how it was a problem a few years ago.

-Rich

[turbodaytona87]

I would think about it, but the car has sat long enough. I just want to drive it again:D I might think about doing it a little later this year

[86Shelby]

what's your technique? RTV brand/type? do you like the scraper?

I get the cheap multi-piece gasket kit from the parts store, Fel-Pro is around $15 IIRC and it comes with the screw-in holders that help with installation. I make sure everything is as oil free as possible and usually end up using a half can of brake cleaner spraying down the inside of the block to stop drips down the side. Lay down a 1/8-1/4" wide bead on the front & rear of the block along with a good blob where the ends of the end seals go. Put the end seals in then put the scrapers in with those screw in holders. Lay another 1/8" bead on the pan with a blob on the end of the end seals and install the pan. It's not the easiest job in the world since it can be pretty frustrating laying on your back getting things to fit. I beleive one thing that has helped out a lot is that the car usually sits for a few days until I can get around to finishing it so the RTV is fully cured by the time the engine runs. As for RTV the first couple times I did it I used 'The Right Stuff' from Permatex. I've never had a leak using that stuff but it is a total pain to dissassemble the parts which is why I didn't use it the last time(August) and went with normal Permatex Ultra Grey. Maybe mundane info, but that's how I do it and the difference is usually in the details. :)

I don't mind the scraper. It took a little time clearancing it so I could just install it without worrying if it would touch once the engine fires. The R/T never has oil pressure changes aside from slightly lower pressure at idle once it's good and hot.

[puppet]

Suppose if a guy had studded mains he could fit one without worrying about the oil pan sealing.