Surface Rust Removal, Primer?

[uwilluz]

Hey guys! It's time to "pretty up" my '93 Dakota, but it's got a lot of surface rust. I'm eventually going to paint the truck, but that's MONTHS off yet, however since the weather is starting to cool down (75-80, lol) I want to get started on removing the surface rust and doing the minimal body work (dings, etc). Here is what I'm dealing with

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee185/jfrawley28/rust3.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee185/jfrawley28/rust2.jpg

the worst part

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee185/jfrawley28/rust.jpg

I found this stuff at Wally World, claims to "turn rust into black primer". Anyone heard of it, tried it, had any luck with it?


http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee185/jfrawley28/rustremover.jpg


Also, what is the best way to remove the rust already on there? I found a "rust removal" steel wheel for a drill, figured I'd give that a try along with some of the 3M "automotive sandpaper" for surface rust removal.

Any ideas on getting the dents filled in would be great as well. I'm not opposed to using bondo, as the truck is a '93 and I don't plan on entering it into any shows or anything of that nature. Thanks guys!

[rich tideswell]

naval jelly will nuke the rust, but a converter like what you have pictured is supposed to neutrolize the rust so primer will adhere to it.

dents: fill'em with bondo or pay for a paintless dent removal guy to come out

[uwilluz]

Thanks for the quick reply Rich!

most of the dents are door dings, pretty sharp, so I'll probably just bondo them.

You think the converter is a good thing to use, then? I'd never heard of it before!

[Anonymous_User]

I was JUST reading an article on Hot Rod dot com about them testing different products designed to eliminate rust, just like you want.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0901_rust_removal_guide/index.html

[uwilluz]

Sweet, Thanks!

[jamesmonty]

Check this out ->
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29898&highlight=painting+spirit

[Tony Hanna]

I followed this guide pretty closely when I tackled the surface rust on the Spirit.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/secrets-surface-rust-removal-revealed-55679.html
One thing I found is that using 80 grit and sort of wet sanding with the naval jelly works wonders. Once the heavy stuff is taken care of, drop back to steel wool with the naval jelly to remove the rust from the pits.

[bfarroo]

I've tried the above spray converter and I'm not sure how well it worked as I was usually painting miscellaneous odds and ends that had surface rust on them. I just didn't like the surface that was left after using it. It didn't seem to dry the greatest and didn't sand well if you ended up going back over it. I'd go with the gel rust converters as mentioned above and follow up with a good sealer and primer.

[rich tideswell]

i don't think i'd be too shy about hitting those panels with some generic gloss white rustoliem once the rust is removed, and the metal sealed.

[JohnnyIroc]

i just did that this weekend to a fender i got it had a few little spots of surface rust use a dremel with a wire wheel on it it will all come right off
and to get the dents use glazzing and spot putty its made by bondo

[bfarroo]

At least your not starting with something like this!
http://www.extremepsi.org/gallery/albums/Body-Work/DSC00902.jpg

The first piece of the arch is already welded in in that pic too. I wish I would have taken a picture of the rust before I blasted it and cut out what was left hanging.

[Badger]

Anonymous,
that was a great article. Thanks!

[87glhs]

The spray converters leave a rough, gummy residue behind, sort of like thin coating of latex paint. Naval jelly and elbow grease works the best.

Also important to use an 'epoxy' primer. Mopar was beginning to use EGL steel (electro-galvanized; i.e., a zinc plating) in their cars back then and once that's sanded or blasted off, you're left with just plain steel. Very important to reseal it.