Reverse cooling?

[Anonymous_User]

Anyone done reverse cooling on one of our engines?

Links to other good cooling threads:

#4 Cooling Mod Explained (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32496)

#4 Cooling Mod Done Differently (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17997&highlight=cooling+differently)

RBryant's thoughts on #4 cooling mod (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14178&postcount=16)

So, with all of this information, I was thinking:

1.) From bottom radiator hose to a Remote Mount Electric Water Pump (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MEZ%2DWP136S&N=700+4294822055+115&autoview=sku)

2.) From water pump to #4 side of head.

3.) Out from where the stock water pump housing bolts to block (fabricate an adapter plater) to the upper radiator.


This has no concessions for a heater core. How would engine cooling be affected? How would turbo cooling be accomplished?

[johnl]

Uhh, don't know, but . . . the stock flow path pushes coolant into the turbo from out of the back of the block and then on through the turbo and then to the Tstat water box. From there it goes on to the heater core. That's good for heat now in the cabin. Then, from the heater core it goes to the radiator (L body) (or, the pump barb - non-L body) via the heater/bypass hose.

Flowing backwards from the rear of #4 may well leave the front of #4 - and the Tstat box - under cooled . . . .

As Tubojerry says, its about delta . . . .

[glhs875]

I've put alot of thought into reverse cooling. I think it could be done, and be very beneficial in helping to control detonation. In fact, I think that it should be done!

[Shadow]

I know someone did it, just can't remember who.

[puppet]

Could a guy accomplish this with something as simple as using the wrong year water pump and moving the t-stat to the lower hose?

[badandy]

I know someone did it, just can't remember who.

I know Simon tried it...back in the TD days I think?

[turbovanman²]

I know Simon tried it...back in the TD days I think?

No, not me, I thought about it but never got around to it.



I've put alot of thought into reverse cooling. I think it could be done, and be very beneficial in helping to control detonation. In fact, I think that it should be done!

I agree, GM did that on the LT1 and they upped the power and spark curve dramatically.

[boost geek]

It's been done a while ago by a guy in Calgary. He's on TD and http://www.turbo-2.com/forum/index.php , but all his info on turbo-2 was lost due to a hacker. If you can access TD it's here.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f20/168771-i-reverse-cooled-my-engine.html

[turbovanman²]

Very interesting, to say the least. I still wonder about heater performance at this point, :confused:

[cordes]

That was a very interesting read. It seems so simple it's silly.

[turbovanman²]

That was a very interesting read. It seems so simple it's silly.

It does but he has no heater, thats the part that worries me, :o

[cordes]

It does but he has no heater, thats the part that worries me, :o

He said you could just take water from where it comes out of the block and run it to the heater core then back to the top of the rad. If the basic principal works, I don't see why that wouldn't.

[turbovanman²]

He said you could just take water from where it comes out of the block and run it to the heater core then back to the top of the rad. If the basic principal works, I don't see why that wouldn't.

Principle is one thing, actually working is another, ;)

[thefitisgay]

i was thinking about just putting the wrong pulley on my water pump... lol i was ready to do it then i realised the "fan" blades in there are designed backwards

[turbovanman²]

Maybe its as simple as using a stock replacement electric pump, wiring it backwards and turning the thermostat around?

[thefitisgay]

ive read something that the guy that converted his didnt run a t stat and just ran a temp switch for the ellec motor... i think

maybe have a 2 stage pump? like a little trickle all the time but then a temp switch turns it up

[GLHNSLHT2]

I want a T-stat, helps the engine warm up faster and keeps the engine temp under control. I've had a t-stat stick open (fail safe stupid thing) And driving down the freeway for 20 mins the car will start to over heat no matter if the fan is on or not. The water doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to shed enough heat out of the system. With a T-stat the water is able to cool off then the tstat opens and let's much cooler water in the system which shuts the tstat again and the process starts over. Now maybe on a minivan or an Omni it'd take longer to do this as their rads are more exposed. But I still want the engine to warm up quickly.

[ssheen]

The stock replacement CSR 922 electric water pumps are no long available. At least from CSR.

["Top Fuel" Bender]

you don't want to run a t-stat with an electric water pump , you'll need some kind of by-pass system, but a restrictor is a good idea like stated above to allow the water to absorb more heat in the engine and shed it in the radiator
can't rewire the aftermarket electric pump do to the design of the impeller and housing (water will just paddle boat)
was thinking about doing the reverse cooling system with my omni
not running a heater core or a water cooled turbo
I am running an electric water pump with equal block distribution
but after talking with Gary Donovan he said when he started designing a reverse cooling system he was having trouble with accurate coolant temperatures for the ecm and he was trying to mod the headgasket to assure even cooling
not that it can't be done or won't work just some things to think of
when GM reversed its cooling system on the LS motor they moved the t-stat, cooling sensors even the internal passages were moved around as well as extra external "steam tubes"
in an engine with a normal flow , any stagnant coolant that is in the block near the squish area of the combustion chamber turns to steam, this steam wants to rise and does with the help of the coolant flowing thru the head gasket towards the head and out the t-stat (the small extra holes in the block, gasket and head near the cylinders)
with a reverse cooling system now the steam bubbles are fighting the flow of the coolant and have a tougher time purging out of the system which can cause overheating issues

[glhs875]

No, not me, I thought about it but never got around to it.




I agree, GM did that on the LT1 and they upped the power and spark curve dramatically.



and compression ratio

[Anonymous_User]

For anyone who can't read "over there":

turbo minivan wrote:


to me, my hard evidence is that before i did the reverse cooling thing, the turbo made 15psi as a base boost level and the fuel pressure was happy at its stock setting, but after doing this mod, WITH NO OTHER CHANGES, the base boost went from 15psi to 20psi, and my fuel pressure seems to be a bit too high now (as it drives a bit rich since the mod). i can only assume they are both due to having a head that is MUCH cooler, thus alowing me/making me lower my fuel pressure and making the turbo spool up 5psi more (maby thats due to the extra fuel being poured in?) and if those arnt signs enough, my valve cover stays cool enough to touch, and my intake is almost cold after regular and hard driving. plus, if nothing else and if its not doing any good performanc wise, i still LOVE he fact that i can shut the motor off, and still let the coolent flow full tilt with the rad fan on. it will cool back down to being able to work on the system within minutes!
its SOO awsome!
im not running my heater core any more, but you could by just running hot water from the lower block, through the heater core, then back to the rad.
as for the turbo coolent lines, i never realy thought about it since i havent run them in 3 years, plus my HX dosnt flow coolent. so im not sure how that would work. the feed off the head would be fine, im not sure about the return on the back of the block, but i dont think it would be a problem. would make for a cooler turbo, thats for sure!


Bear in mind I am not even thinking about a heater core. Those are for canadians. Down here in the warm state of Iowa we don't need no stinkin' heater cores. I don't see why you couldn't find a delta pressure to run through your heater core.

On my V8 bracket car I run standard direction cooling, but with an electric pump and fan and no t-stat. Between rounds I can pull the engine temp down to ambient or less (if I have my son spraying ice water on the radiator).

The reverse cooling should keep the head and intake cooler, reducing detonation and also helping reduce intake charge temps.

Now I need to look at the coolant passages/flow on the DOHC Neon head.

[turbovanman²]

and compression ratio

Yeah, true dat, :nod: