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mboyek
12-06-2008, 12:30 PM
I'm not looking to start a battle here, I just need to get a set of wires. The ones I made are not properly insulated or constructed causing high rpm spark loss. The prices are all way higher than I want to pay, but are honestly a bargain when I realized this is all one off low production custom stuff.

I have the distributor in the stock location (for now) with the 2.4 head.

http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/Category.asp?IDCatalog=88&txtCatalog=Hybrid%2016V%20Neon = $79

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9829 = $80

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/dohc_conversion_products.htm =$115, but convert to brass terminals.

Opinions?

badandy
12-06-2008, 01:10 PM
I'm not looking to start a battle here, I just need to get a set of wires. The ones I made are not properly insulated or constructed causing high rpm spark loss. The prices are all way higher than I want to pay, but are honestly a bargain when I realized this is all one off low production custom stuff.

I have the distributor in the stock location (for now) with the 2.4 head.

http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/Category.asp?IDCatalog=88&txtCatalog=Hybrid%2016V%20Neon = $79

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9829 = $80

http://rbryant.freeshell.org/dohc_conversion_products.htm =$115, but convert to brass terminals.

Opinions?

Go with Rich's setup and call it as good as it gets:thumb: I swapped out from Magnacores w/stock cap to that setup and honestly my car just seemed to be more smooth.

t3rse
12-06-2008, 05:13 PM
+1 for Rich, couldn't be happier.

Chris W
12-06-2008, 06:28 PM
+2 for Rich's wires. Although Simon's are good also.

Chris-TU

turbovanmanČ
12-06-2008, 06:30 PM
Thanks Chris.

Rich's are good but I like mine as they use the stock cap, so if anything happens, you have easy access to a replacement cap. I also warranty the ends for life so if you happen to wear them out-which I've never seen, I will send you new ones or send me back your old wires and I'll have them redone.

rbryant
12-07-2008, 03:35 AM
I think it is a personal preference.

Simon's wires are as good as they get with the stock terminals. I just personally don't like the terminals so I came up with something else.

I don't think anyone has actually worn out one of the conversion caps yet either so they must not be getting much spark wear on the brass terminals.

Simon's wires are the main reason that I don't even make stock terminal wires anymore. There is no need to hand make that type of wire when Simon already provides them and getting those stock style terminals on a 8.5mm wire by hand consistently is tough enough to be not worth it. :)

-Rich

t3rse
12-07-2008, 03:48 AM
I went with Rich's setup simply because I am now running the distributor off the head and it makes it a hell of a lot easier for packaging to have the 90* terminals and I love the HEI cap now that I have it.

lancer402
12-12-2008, 11:14 PM
i went with Rich's about a year ago. i think I might have been one of the first to use them on a hybrid with the dist in the stock location. I swear there is less missing at high boost with them.:eyebrows:

andy

mboyek
12-22-2008, 01:07 PM
i went with Rich's about a year ago. i think I might have been one of the first to use them on a hybrid with the dist in the stock location. I swear there is less missing at high boost with them.:eyebrows:

andy

I just got them in, decided brass was the way to go.

I can't believe how much they have smoothed out the idle! I have no balance shafts and if I had a real muffler on, you wouldn't be able to tell its running!

:D

rbryant
12-22-2008, 01:18 PM
I just got them in, decided brass was the way to go.

I can't believe how much they have smoothed out the idle! I have no balance shafts and if I had a real muffler on, you wouldn't be able to tell its running!

:D

Glad to hear that you like them! :D

Stories of satisfaction like this are a big reason why I make them.

Sure I make a few bucks but making manual wires and modifying the caps is time consuming so it also has to be about helping the team.

-Rich

BadAssPerformance
12-22-2008, 02:39 PM
Hope the wires help... but when I read "high rpm spark loss" I think its more of a plug gap issue or time for an MSD (or equivalent) box.

mboyek
12-22-2008, 02:42 PM
Hope the wires help... but when I read "high rpm spark loss" I think its more of a plug gap issue or time for an MSD (or equivalent) box.

I was getting zapped when I tried to set the timing, so I was hoping they were related. It wasn't related but now I have nice wires and can set the timing without getting a numb arm.

:thumb:

BadAssPerformance
12-22-2008, 02:44 PM
Sounds like you needed wires anyways!

rbryant
12-22-2008, 03:23 PM
Hope the wires help... but when I read "high rpm spark loss" I think its more of a plug gap issue or time for an MSD (or equivalent) box.

That could be true but there are a few things to consider.

The gap in the rotor (about .060) is much bigger (2x or more) than the gap at the plugs. The gap on my caps is a little bit closer than the stock ones and it is also a conductivity/resistivity issue.

The conductivity of brass is something like 20x better than stainless so it could make a difference in the cap. Of course I don't have any real world proof that this is the improvement. I just try to make things as good as I can. :)

The wires are more about preventing spark loss but it is a much lesser issue which brand is used as long as the wires are in good shape and relatively low working resistance (through both the skin affect and regular resistance because both are at work in the wires IMO).

One thing to consider is that the higher the resistance the plug wires are the hotter they get and the shorter their life. This is especially true with high output ignitions which will fry conventional wires quickly.

-Rich

shelbyplaya
12-29-2008, 03:17 PM
When my car was on the dyno I had my plugs gapped to .035 and when the boost was turned up to 15psi I had issues with the spark being blown out. We re-gapped them to .026 and I havent had an issue with my plugs being blown out. Befor the spark was blown out the WTQ #'s where 335 ft/lbs at 2500rpm :o

My cables are the FWDP magnacore cables, They work and look awsome!

contraption22
12-29-2008, 04:02 PM
When using the OE style wires, I like to take my cap, rotor, and wires and place them on a spare distributor i have lying around. I keep bending the wire termainals inward towards the rotor as much as I can without it touching the rotor, reducing the gap as much as possible.

BadAssPerformance
12-29-2008, 04:09 PM
That could be true but there are a few things to consider.

The gap in the rotor (about .060) is much bigger (2x or more) than the gap at the plugs. The gap on my caps is a little bit closer than the stock ones and it is also a conductivity/resistivity issue.
...

I hear ya, but the plug is at... 8.5:1 plus boost?... the cap/rotor is at... ATM? ;)

contraption22
12-29-2008, 04:16 PM
I hear ya, but the plug is at... 8.5:1 plus boost?... the cap/rotor is at... ATM? ;)

Didn't you ever see Clerks2? You should never go ATM.

rbryant
12-29-2008, 04:46 PM
I hear ya, but the plug is at... 8.5:1 plus boost?... the cap/rotor is at... ATM? ;)

Very true and a very good point but that is outside of the control of the cap/wires. :)

-Rich