Wiring nightmares!!!

[88daytonapa]

I've posted many times on TD.com but haven't gotten many responses....crossposted there as well.

Tested the ASD relay, and got 10 volts there. Moved to the ECU and got 0 volts at the wire. Checked through the wiring, no breaks, BUT, that wire(blue and yellow) goes through the diagnostic connector. There is voltage there, BUT when you test it with a grounded test light to see if it is hot, the fuel injectors turn on and fuel pressure shoots up to 50ish psi. Good! So, what would cause this? I looked through the wiring diagrams and it seems that the ground wire for that piece goes through a whole lot of things, it looks to finally end at the right front door jamb switch. I'm not sure where to go from here....


88 Shelby Z T2

Any help or input is greatly appreciated!

[turbovanman²]

Thats supposed to do that, thats how you turn on the fuel pump, its the relay switch on wire.

What are you trying to fix?

[88daytonapa]

I've got no spark.

[turbovanman²]

Ok, have a friend crank it over and check for 12 volts at the + terminal at the coil. If you do, I would try another known good HEP.

[88daytonapa]

tried another hep and got strong spark, once. pulled the wire off and we had spark, stopped cranking, put the wire back on....no spark. pulled it off to check it and had absolutely nothing.

so i had 1 good time of strong spark, then nothing. i have no idea what is going on with this car. i'm about to send it to the junkyard.

tested the green/black wire going to the coil from the ASD, it is okay and has no breaks. also looked at the wires coming from the hep, found no breaks in those either. i don't know what to do.

Joe

[turbovanman²]

You still haven't told me if your getting 12 volts to the coil.

Did you recently change out the distributor?

[cordes]

Don't drag her off to the JY just yet. I spent about 4 hours trying to figure out what was wrong with my tail lights/ blinker today, but I finally got it. Hang in there and you will figure it out.

[88daytonapa]

i am getting 12v to the coil.

dist. was recently changed.

[turbovanman²]

i am getting 12v to the coil.

dist. was recently changed.

Are you getting 12volts while cranking?

Does your new distributor have the cutout in the #1 vane-its a square. This will give you one spark and then none.

[88daytonapa]

yes, 12v while cranking.

what do you mean cutout in the #1 vein?

Where it goes into the drive gear theres a cutout that it goes into...but that's the only thing I have noticed, can you explain what I should look for?

Thanks,

Joe

[afsautoworx]

I think what he means is theres a "shutter wheel" (think thats what its called) plate inside of your distributor. Theres a square hole cut in one of the blades on this wheel that lets the computer know when the motor is at TDC. Turbo cars had the hole cut out, TBI cars didnt. Maybe im wrong.

[88daytonapa]

I will check this

[88daytonapa]

No cuts in the vanes on the shutter wheel, all 4 are solid with no squares.

[88daytonapa]

I traced my Z1 feed all the way back to the ASD, re-taped the splices and no changes. while playing with the asd relay connection, testing the z1 for power, the rad. fan relay started clicking, I wiggled the probe down into the connector and the fan turned on fully, and didn't stop until I turned the key off. Related?

I don't know where to go from here.

[Turbodave]

No cuts in the vanes on the shutter wheel, all 4 are solid with no squares.

Sounds like you've got the distributor from a TBI car. They are different from a turbo dist. Find one that has a hole in one of the vanes. The hole controls the dist. sync with the computer and it will do exactly as you described without it.

[88daytonapa]

Oh god, if that's the problem i'm going to shoot myself...

do you mean the 4 vanes that pop up from the shutter wheel? the one on thedodgegarage doesn't have a slit either...

[Darkwolf]

http://users.marshall.edu/~kessler8/downloads/100_0089.jpg
Since my stuff is apart for my engine rebuild I went out a took a pic for you.

[88daytonapa]

Thanks Darkwolf! I think you post on genmay, I'm Joee on there.

The dist that is in there now DOES NOT have the cutout, went over to my buddies house and pulled one out of a sundance turbo...there's a cutout!! I hope this is the problem, unfortunately the dist bolts are stripped in that so I'm going to pop out the roll pins and swap the shafts, will that be sufficient?

Joe

[turbovanman²]

Yep, that will work. I drink MGD, :D

[88daytonapa]

PM me your address and I'll send you a case...(is that legal? LOL)

[88daytonapa]

Okay, put the new shaft in, I've got good spark!

No start still.....could the dist. being 180 out cause no start?

I'm going to put the engine to TDC tomorrow and see where the rotor sits.

Any other ideas?

[cordes]

Okay, put the new shaft in, I've got good spark!

No start still.....could the dist. being 180 out cause no start?

I'm going to put the engine to TDC tomorrow and see where the rotor sits.

Any other ideas?

180* out will cause a no start.

[turbovanman²]

With you messing around, you should reset your timing belt.

[88daytonapa]

put the motor to TDC this morning, dist. was 180 out. flipped it around and wiggled while my buddy cranked it....started right up!!!!!!!!!

YAY!

Tuned it a bit with the t. light and it runs like a T2 should :)

Thanks for all your help guys!

[CletusJones]

Thanks Darkwolf! I think you post on genmay, I'm Joee on there.
lol, I thought this seemed familiar.

[Darkwolf]

Yeah a couple of us all follow the same boards