PDA

View Full Version : Official 87 CSX 581 Thread



mcglsr2
11-13-2008, 10:35 AM
INTRO
hey everyone, i'm going to be making some changes to the car. i've been wanting to do this for a while now, just never really got the chance. so now that i have the opportunity to, i'll keep a log here of the things i'll be doing.

it might be hard to separate what's new from what's old on this thread since i'll be updating existing posts quite a bit, i will keep a "last edited" list at the bottom of this post, as well as occasionally create a new post with my thoughts or pointing out new updates. the edits at the bottom will be listed in order of most recent.

i'll lay this thread out with sections. each section will be specifically about some portion of the car i will be working on/updating. there's no real rhyme or reason to the order of the sections.

sections

BOV: POST #69 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459967&postcount=69)
CALIBRATIONS: POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70)
CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL: POST #71 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=460063&postcount=71)
ECU: POST #11 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=403731&postcount=11)
FMIC: POST #56 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426801&postcount=56)
HEAD: POST #41 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=417786&postcount=41)
INJECTORS & MAP: POST #55 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426799&postcount=55)
INTERIOR: POST #25 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409461&postcount=25)
LSD: POST #68 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459640&postcount=68)
MISC ENGINE STUFF: POST #105 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=517944&postcount=105)
PCV UPDATE: POST #59 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=430118&postcount=59)
SUSPENSION: POST #26 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409490&postcount=26)
TRACK & DYNO: POST #66 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=458078&postcount=66)
WHEELS: POST #4 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=402240&postcount=4)
WIDEBAND O2, EGT & DATALOGGING: POST #17 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=405293&postcount=17)


a little background on the car
it's a 1987 shelby csx, purchased in 1989. it sat on the lot for 2 years until my dad bought it. it was his daily driver until i started to learn to drive. that was the car i learned on. at first i didn't really know what it was. i was looking at buying my "own" car. but as i drove the shelby more, i started loving it more and more, until it got to the point that i didn't want any other car. i ended up buying it from my dad. it was my daily driver until it became unrealiable on the 8+ hour drive between home and college. so i got a 99 saturn sl2 as the daily, and the shelby stayed home until i came back from college. now it's my fun car, and i still really enjoy driving it. it's such a blast.

the car stayed essentially stock up until i got back from college. my father and i did a few things here and there. here are the specs on the car:

1987 stage II/csx ECU
factory airbox replaced by smooth pipe with un-modded 1G BOV attached
k&n cone filter on stock turbo compressor inlet pipe
180 deg thermostat with donovan hole drilled in top
804 injectors - update: or so i thought. after pulling the injectors out, they are actually 5277895, 34# ones. stock was 33.25#. apparently, even though we purchased the 804 injectors, some mix-up at the factory landed us injectors that were NOT 804s. the packaging did say 804. so that was interesting to learn.
mpgmike ported exhaust manifold
TU rebuilt stock turbo with stainless lines
TU 3" swingvalve
TU 3" downpipe
FWDP 3" exhaust pipes
3" dynomax race bullet muffler in place of cat
3" dynomax race bullet muffler at end of exhaust
custom 2-stage g-vavle MBCs for low & high boost
gus mahon grainger/bleed in MAP boost line
custom shift light in stock tach
auto meter cobalt boost gauge
nordskog EGT gauge (which doesn't work)
Intellitronix-like O2 gauge (don't remember brand exactly)
car has been painted completely black, which looks better then the gray bottom IMO



original parts
since the car has been in the family since it's original purchase, we've been in a good position to keep everything off the car as things break and get changed out. for example, the stock 520 broke on me at one point. a 555 was dropped in in place of it. i still have the 520 sitting in my garage. i still have the original factory injectors, i even have the original lug nuts. granted they are bad shape as they were on the car for over 15 years, but i still have them. i still have the original computer that got swapped for the stage 2 one, things like that. i've tried to be diligent about keeping records as well, so i have a pretty thick folder of receipts and stuff.

along the way, i've also found 2 build sheets in the car. one was sewn into one of the seats - when i had the seats reupholstered at some point in the past, the people that did it found the build sheet and gave it me. also, more recently, i replaced the carpet and found another build sheet under the carpet on the rear passenger side.


what i want to get out of the car
since this is a numbered car, i don't really plan on going all out. i don't want to make any modifications to the car that i couldn't undo later if i wanted to. so i tried to set some reasonable goals for the car that would satisfy the speed monster in me and also satisfy the sensible side. so, i'm currently looking for:


250whp to 270whp, somewhere in that range. boost will be whatever i need to support this - the lower the better, but i'm thinking 27psi max. i'll have to see.
low 13's in the quarter - this would require me learning how to drive the car though :o
the car already handles pretty well. i wouldn't mind improving on the handling, but not at the expense of cutting/welding any mounts or the frame or anything like that


getting an initial baseline...sort of
i took the car to the dyno on oct 30th, for a baseline run. i learned some interesting stuff. here are the results from the dyno session, i made 2 runs:

Run 1: ~17psi; 194.92whp @ 5200rpm; 229.93lb-ft @ 4000rpm; ~12.5-13 A/F
Run 2: ~21psi; 215.81whp @ 4700rpm; 248.44lb-ft @ 4300rpm; ~14 A/F starting at 4000 rpm


issue #1 is fueling, the car is too lean. which makes sense considering i have injectors in there that aren't even 1# more then the stock ones. at 5 to 9 more psi then stock, lack of fuel WILL be a problem. also, i'm not convinced that the boost numbers above are accurate. i think my BOV was leaking, so it's quite possible that the compressor was making even more boost, which would increase the intake manifold charge temp, lowering power. so i think those numbers are all hosed up and i don't put a lot of faith in them right now, especially the second run.


upcoming changes
i have a whole slew of things i want to modify/improve. here is a list of the things that i will be changing, along with an indication on the progess of that item. each of the sections listed at the top of this post will contain more details about what's going on with these items.

my overall plan of attack will be to make some big changes, then slowly work up to the hp gain realized from those changes. then perhaps some additional changes, more tuning, so on and so forth. i will try to approach things in the following order:

create socketed LM using baseline CSX Stage II calibration POST #11 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=403731&postcount=11) - COMPLETE!
replace narrowband O2 wideband unit POST #17 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=405293&postcount=17) - COMPLETE!
verify car functions properly with wideband unit, datalogging, and narrowband O2 signal to LM POST #17 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=405293&postcount=17) - COMPLETE!
create custom cal for 2Bar, 36# inj, 12psi POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70) - COMPLETE!
upgrade to 3 Bar map POST #55 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426799&postcount=55) - COMPLETE!
create/update cal for 3Bar, 36# inj, 15psi POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70) - COMPLETE!
upgrade to larger injectors POST #55 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426799&postcount=55) - awaiting install...
acquire and install ported head POST #41 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=417786&postcount=41) - in progress...
install new EGT probe POST #17 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=405293&postcount=17) - awaiting install...
do something with the BOV, either modify the 1G for high boost or get an aftermarket one. i'm looking at the HKS SSQV right now... POST #69 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459967&postcount=69) - awaiting install...
create/update cal for 3Bar, 72s (72#) inj, 12psi, ported head POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70) - COMPLETE!
street tune cal
create/update cal for 17psi POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70) -
street tune cal if possible, dyno tune otherwise
create/update cal for 21psi POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70) -
street tune cal if possible, dyno tune otherwise
replace stock i/c with fmic unit from treadstone & reroute turbo compressor inlet to get fresh air and not underhood air POST #56 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426801&postcount=56)
create/update cal for max safe psi (goal is 27psi) POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70) -
evaluate dynos for improvements/gains/goals


in addition to this, there are supporting mods that i want to do that may not directly fit into the ordering above, or are exclusive from the ordering. those items are listed here:

new, wider rims POST #4 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=402240&postcount=4) - COMPLETE!
new coil seats for the front struts POST #26 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409490&postcount=26) - COMPLETE!
new carpet for the car POST #25 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409461&postcount=25) - COMPLETE!
seat covers for the torn up seats until i decide to get them reupholstered POST #25 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409461&postcount=25) - COMPLETE!
do something with the seatbelts POST #25 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409461&postcount=25) - COMPLETE!
clean/paint interior panels POST #25 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409461&postcount=25) - COMPLETE!
new interior roof panel thing - water leaks and time have made it crack and sag POST #25 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=409461&postcount=25) - COMPLETE!
exterior paint job (very badly needed) & new vent visors - waiting for paint job prior to install...
positive impression decals - waiting for paint job before application...
i would like to get some shelby floor mats, i'll have to see what i can find
a new clutch POST #71 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=460063&postcount=71) -
new 255 fuel pump, depending on whether the stock can keep up with the new injectors and flow demand...
paint engine bay and components...
update PCV system POST #59 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=430118&postcount=59) - in progress...
install LSD POST #68 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459640&postcount=68) - paid deposit...



results from changes
the results from these changes will be documented in the DYNO & TRACK post. i also started a video compilation of the work that will be going into the car. i'm not done with it yet (as i'm not done with the car :) ) but here's what i got so far:
Vid Compilation (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12014&nocache=1)


Recent Edits:
- updated ECU post (07/23/2009)
- updated MISC ENGINE STUFF post (07/22/2009)
- updated CALIBRATIONS post (07/22/2009)
- updated INJECTORS & MAP post (07/22/2009)
- updated HEAD post (03/30/2009)
- updated FMIC post (03/24/2009)
- updated TRACK & DYNO post (03/21/2009)
- updated BOV post (03/18/2009)
- updated WIDEBAND O2, EGT & DATALOGGING post (03/17/2009)
- added CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL post (03/14/2009)
- added LSD post (03/13/2009)
- added PCV UPDATE post (03/09/2009)
- updated WHEELS post (01/08/2009)
- updated SUSPENSION post (01/01/2009)
- updated INTERIOR post (01/01/2009)

cordes
11-13-2008, 10:42 AM
Great writeup. I can't wait to see the progress.

Tony Hanna
11-13-2008, 11:18 AM
I love a good project thread!:)

mcglsr2
11-13-2008, 01:45 PM
WHEELS
okay, so i've done some research on wheels, i've been wanting to change them out for a while now, i could never justify the cost though so it never happened. and there was other stuff i wanted to do with the money on the car. recently, i've put a little more focus into it. for the longest time, i've wanted to run black wheels with a polished/silver rim.

my goals in a wheel, in order, are:

width (7")
cost
weight
appearance


not on this list, but of course a huge player is availability. whether i can get the wheel, and get it in the correct bolt pattern. so i did some looking around, immediately i found some MB Drifters at discount tire. i like the way they look, but when i inquired as to the weight of the wheel, i got back a response of 20 lbs. i think these weigh more then the stock wheels! so while the look and price are right on, these wheels defeat the whole point of me getting new rims: improved performance. so i found a couple other wheels. after a point, i began wondering what they would look like on the car. i've a gnat's chance in a windstorm of finding a shadow with the wheels i want to see already on it, so off to some image editing...

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/WheelCompare.jpg
(the smiley faces are the look/weight/price combos that i liked. the not-so-smiley is one that i am kind of "meh" about)

i put in some data on the wheels, and just compared them. and i think i've made a decision. and they are:

Rota Slipstream in Flat Black
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/rota_slipstream_flat.jpg
these wheels also come in a gun metal with polished lip, but i don't know if the gun metal color will look good on an otherwise all black car. i wish these wheels came in black with a polished lip. i've actually seen a set online, but rota does not list this a wheel they sell, so i think those were done custom.

the wheels weigh somewhere between 12 to 12.9 lbs (conflicting info online), they are 15 x 7, 5 x 100 bolt pattern, and most importantly, i can find them for a reasonable price. at first, i didn't want the flat black wheels on the car because i was worried that it would just look dirty, and not have enough contrast. however, after seeing it on the car (in the wheel compare image), and based on the fact that i'm going performance (and cost) first, appearance second, i think these will be a good choice. super bonus: the practically brand new tires i have on the corners will also fit on these wheels, so i'm out just the cost of wheels, mounting and balancing. i know this wheel is popular with the JDM crowd, but that doesn't bother me. and i don't care if some dude at the drag strip rolls up next to me with the same wheels. the point of these wheels is not to bling the car out; just something to add a little more performance over the stock wheels while keeping a somewhat aggressive look without breaking the bank (plus, i don't want to risk ruining the stock wheels at this point, good luck getting another one...)

on to the brake calipers...the car has always had the centurion II wheels, behind which the calipers and discs are not really visible. so nothing has ever been done with them appearance-wise. they are a nice rusty brown color :) since these new wheels will be much more open, it just won't do to leave the calipers that color. therefore, as part of putting on the new wheels, i will also paint the calipers. i'll see about cleaning up the discs but i'm not sure i can do much there.

i'm thinking 1 of 2 ways to go with the calipers: i will either paint them gloss black to match the car and contrast a little with the flat black rims OR i will paint them a color that matches the blue stripe on the body. i'm leaning towards the black as i'm worried the blue will look a little too ricey. i need to mock up some images to see what the general effect will be. it might not be so bad. i haven't made any decisions there yet.

i haven't moved on the wheels yet as i want to square up the ECU stuff first, but these are around the corner :)

update (11/20/2008)
so, i come to find out that black slipstreams with a polished/machined lip are indeed available, and at the same price as the flat black ones. so now it's a question of aesthetics...do i prefer the flat black look or the polished lip/glossy black look (the bottom left and bottom right pics in the wheel compare image)...tough to decide.

...and upon further deliberation, i have decided upon the flat black. i have chosen these because when i really got to looking at the car, i realized that nothing else on it was silver/polished. the trim around the windows, the door handles, trim around the bumpers, all of it was blacked out. even the antenna is black. in fact, the only other silver on the car (besides the original wheels) is the rear shelby trunk badge - it has some silver accents. that's it. so, in keeping with the blacked out theme, i am going with the flat black wheels. i have also decided to plaint the calipers glossy black. the blue will just look too ricey i think. so now i have a plan for the wheels. now i just need the money... ;)

update (11/25/2008)
so i found out that wheel is available in a 7.5" width as well. after a flurry of research, and talking with the people selling it, it's only available in a 4-lug bolt pattern. oh well, i'm not sure it would fit anyway. it could have, but i'm not sure if i would have had to modify anything.

i also pondered 16x8" wheels. wishful thinking. besides, i've got like 5000 miles on my current tread, so it would be some time (years...?) before i would be able to purchase larger tires to go with the larger wheels as i'm not in the habit of replacing perfectly good tires.

sooo, 15x7" it is, and some black chrome tuner style locking lug nuts to go with them! looking forward to it...

a positive here is that the hub bore on the 5x100 slipstreams is 57.1mm, which is what it is for our cars. so no hubcentric rings needed. bonus.

update (12/01/2008)
ordered the wheels and some gorilla black chrome acorn style locking lugnuts. i was told that tuner style lugnuts were not necessary for these wheels. i hope that holds true. looking forward to getting them! shipping towards the end of this week.

update (12/13/2008)
the wheels arrived, and i had them installed yesterday evening. i took some pics of the car before i went off to get them done:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/left_side_wheels_2008-12-13.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/left_front_wheels_2008-12-13.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/left_front_wheel_2008-12-13.jpg

new wheels:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/left_side_new_wheels_2008-12-13.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/left_front_quarter_new_wheels_2008-.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wheels/left_front_closup_new_2008-12-13.jpg

i'm really happy with how they turned out. the rear wheels right now don't have a center cap on them as 2 of them arrived broken. i am waiting for the guy to ship me two new ones.

oh...wah...wait, what's that you say, car? you what? you need a paint job? i know...i know. lol, once i get a nw paint job, the car will look really nice. i ordered a new set of decals from Dave at Positive Impressions, so they'll be ready to go once the car does get painted. i really wish i could pick up a set of floor mats from him like he used to make. you hear that Dave, floor mats! :)

interesting thing to note, and this could totally be my imagination, but i think the car gets more looks now with the new rims. i guess with the old, stockish rims, there was nothing "special" that jumped out. not so much the case now. pretty funny, but when i had the car parked in the lot today at my apartment screwing with the engine trouble i had (that turned out to be a power steering pump issue), several people practically broke their necks looking at the car as they drove by. probably wondering what that POS with the sweet rims is... :)

update (12/15/2008)
i weighed a centurion II wheel, came out to 19.8 lbs. if we assume 5 lbs of rotational weight for each lb of static weight on the front (drive) wheels, and 3 lbs of rotational weight for each lb of static weight on the rear wheels, then the original wheels were like 158.4 lbs. these new wheels are down to 103.2 lbs, for a [supposed] savings of about 55.2 lbs. if we just go off of static weight, the car is now about 28 lbs lighter, for 1 in wider rims. not bad.

update (01/08/2009)
i just realized i forgot to mention anything about the calipers - i decided not to paint them. they don't look bad at all behind the wheels. i thought they would look terrible, but not the case. i'm sure they would look better painted, but too much trouble right now. i want to to focus my time on the engine right now. i may come back some day and paint them, but it's not really needed at this point.

SoCalCSX
11-13-2008, 02:05 PM
About your fueling, I know`the stage II cal can run +20's with success. Ran very well in a friends GLHS. Oh and the Slipstreams FTW

omni_840
11-13-2008, 02:09 PM
Nice write up :nod:

I honestly like the centurions, but I also like black wheels on a black car :)

mcglsr2
11-13-2008, 02:30 PM
About your fueling, I know`the stage II cal can run +20's with success. Ran very well in a friends GLHS. Oh and the Slipstreams FTW

that's good to know, i always thought anything above about 5% the computer couldn't handle. however, i'm already in motion with a custom cal (write up coming, as soon as i get a chance to get some pics to go along with it) so i guess it will be a moot point for me. my current plans are the +40s

and i am starting to like me some slipsteams :)


Nice write up :nod:

I honestly like the centurions, but I also like black wheels on a black car :)

i like the "stock" look of the wheels, but with the age of the car, all it will take is a really nasty pothole and some speed and i end up with a bent rim. and i know i'll have trouble finding another one. i may get lucky but why risk it. i'd rather risk some aftermarket wheels. have said that, the centurion IIs have lasted on that car for 21 years now...

Tony Hanna
11-13-2008, 11:23 PM
About your fueling, I know`the stage II cal can run +20's with success. Ran very well in a friends GLHS. Oh and the Slipstreams FTW

+1 on the Slipstreams. Nice looking wheel.:nod:

CSXVNT461
11-17-2008, 05:45 AM
I like the XXR 503. I think the slipstreams look to modern/tuner style, a car like this needs something more unique.

mcglsr2
11-17-2008, 08:22 AM
I like the XXR 503. I think the slipstreams look to modern/tuner style, a car like this needs something more unique.

actually, i think my ideal wheels would be the Rota GT3s, i really like the way they look on the car and they don't look too tuner-ish. however, i can't seem to find the blck ones in a 5x100 bolt pattern. plus, the ones i could find (in the other bolt patterns) were more expensive then the slipstreams AND they weigh more. it seems the slipstreams are a compromise then, but only on looks. they are actually "better" then the GT3 on the other counts...

ECU update coming soon (like later today) - i haven't had a chance to take any pictures of what i've done so far.

mcglsr2
11-17-2008, 10:40 AM
ECU

goals:

create a socketed logic module


originally, i was planning on going with the stage 4 or 5 ECU from FWDP. however, i ended up deciding to roll my own. if, for some reason, i fail miserably at it, i can still opt for the FWDP cal.

first things first, before i can start burning chips, i gotta get a few things. i also needed to read up on it as well. with the help of cordes and aries_turbo (thanks guys!) pointing me in the right directions, i started buying up some stuff and reading up on some stuff. my main sources were the knowledge center here and cordes' site omniglht.

i ended up getting a different programmer then what these suggested though. i want to be able to burn new chips in the car right at the dyno or track and the laptop i will be getting for this does not have a parallel port, so the suggested programmer was out. i need a USB version. because of this, the overall cost of burning my own chips went up, but money well worth it IMO. the programmer i got is a willem GQ-4X true usb. it uses the USB cable for data transfer and power, so it's the only cable you need. also, there are no dip switches, that's all covered for you behind the scenes in the software. lastly, it's got a plastic case enclosure on it - since i would be bringing this in the car with me, i didn't really want exposed chips and circuits just asking to be damaged. the unit i got was the "lite" version, meaning it didn't come with some adapters but i didn't care. i got it from mcumall for around $100. here's a pic of it:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/programmer.jpg

once i got the programmer squared away, i needed to get the ZIF socket and chip. when i went to mcumall to get the programmer, i also looked for a ZIF socket. the only one i found in the correct number of pins (28) was a low profile one - which turned out to be exactly what i wanted anyway. if you are following along at cordes site, it looks different. it doesn't have the huge handle and from my test fitting, it doesn't need to be cut at all to fit the "yellow thingie" (official cordes description :) ) on the board. i also got the STS27SF512 flash memory from mouser. here's a pic of the two of them:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/chipZIF.jpg
the blue sticker on the chip is a label i added - it's the "stock" 1987 stage II csx code. i will be keeping a couple different chips (rather then continually re-burning over the same one) for test and reliability purposes. the labels will let me tell them apart. using the burner was pretty straightforward. i had to set an offset, and play with the software a bit, but i was able to burn the chip you see in the picture within 20 minutes of installing the software. it took about 6 sec to burn the chip.

i picked up a desoldering iron from radioshack (i already have a soldering iron).

lastly, i need a LM. i purchased a 1987 T1 LM off of a member here on turbo-mopar (thanks moparfwdsleeper). i've desoldered the original EPROM. here's the board, with the missing chip in the lower right:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/87T1LM.jpg

here is the ZIF socketed in the board:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/boardsocketed.jpg

once installed in the car...
testing:

car start up - passed
car cruising - passed
car @ 17psi boost - passed


results:
with the "new" calibration in, the car started up just fine. i ran it around a little, gentle on the throttle and the car behaved nicely. idled a little high at first but settled down eventually. i then went on a couple roads here and opened it up some; boosted just fine. i need to drive the car around for a couple days to make sure it is running as it was, but so far from what i can tell the "new" computer is working perfectly. "stock" custom cal FTW and on to the next items on the list! :D

update (03/14/2009)
so i've been using the burner for a while now, works great! i'm really happy with the one i got :)

update (04/02/2009)
i got tired of having to unplug the ECU each time i wanted to swap a chip, and i was worried about over-stressing and breaking the connectors. so i got a T-I case with the integrated MAP sensor, pulled the sensor off the black cover thing. it sits directly above the chip, so now all i have to do is unscrew the black cover and booyah there's the chip (i got this idea originally from cordes, just waited until now to implement it - thanks cordes!). here are some pics:

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/DSCF0029.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/DSCF0030.jpg

this is much nicer, and when i start painting stuff in the engine bay, i'll paint the case here to match (satin black - that idea got 'stoled' from Pat, thanks Pat! :D)

update (07/23/2009)
and here's the LM cover painted...
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/painted_LM-1.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Calibrations/painted_LM-2.jpg

i wasn't trying to get it perfect. after all, when the car is done that will get tucked behind the kick panel and not seen. i figured it would look at least a little nice and maybe keep the rust off.

racer-xerols
11-17-2008, 11:03 AM
Very cool writeup. It's nice to see another SD "family car" - my 91 Daytona CS/AGS car was originally bought by me, paperwork for insurance purposes put it in dad's name (I was 19), and transferred to me later on. Still have that car with 74k miles.

My suggestion on wheels - and it'll help the budget - find some 6.5" crabs and paint the centers black or charcoal, strip and polish the lips. You get a "period" wheel, they're far less expensive than anything aftermarket, and IMO they look great.

I'm keeping an eye on your cal progress. I have a 2.5 S70 motor ready to go in my 87 CSX and am debating whether to burn my own, or have one made....

mcglsr2
11-17-2008, 11:25 AM
Very cool writeup. It's nice to see another SD "family car" - my 91 Daytona CS/AGS car was originally bought by me, paperwork for insurance purposes put it in dad's name (I was 19), and transferred to me later on. Still have that car with 74k miles.

and i'll keep it in the family as long as i can :)


My suggestion on wheels - and it'll help the budget - find some 6.5" crabs and paint the centers black or charcoal, strip and polish the lips. You get a "period" wheel, they're far less expensive than anything aftermarket, and IMO they look great.

i thought about doing something like that. if i did i would have a MUCH larger selection if i went with 6.5" wheels rather then 7" - but the way i see it the car already has 6" wheels. and i don't intend on buying more wheels later on. another 0.5" doesn't seem worth it to me. however, another 1" does. so i'm willing to pay a little more for 1" wider wheels, just not $200 a wheel :) but it's still a good suggestion though, and i will certainly consider it...


I'm keeping an eye on your cal progress. I have a 2.5 S70 motor ready to go in my 87 CSX and am debating whether to burn my own, or have one made....

i'm really excited about this - i'm hoping it turns out well. the first real test will be when i try to start the car after dropping in the new computer. it should run the same as it does now, since technically it should be no different then the current computer, other then it's a burned chip in a T1 LM of course. we shall see :)

racer-xerols
11-18-2008, 11:14 AM
As I hunt for tires for my wide-tire CSX-VNT, I'm finding that it's getting harder and harder to find wider tires for a 15" rim. Hell, goodyear doesn't even *make* a 225/50-15 anymore. I'd factor that into your wheel choice as well...how hard is it gonna be to put new shoes on it when the time comes? Most wider tires these days are on larger diameter (17" and up) rims. Damned 'progress', LOL.

Also consider that the 6.5" / 225 tire cars had a different steering rack to prevent rubbing on full-lock turns (the wide-tire 89 CSXs had a Shelby Z rack installed). Sure, you can be careful....but there's limited wheelhouse space on these old things, compared to the caverns on newer cars.

And my CS? Put it this way...my family won't have to buy me a coffin when the time comes, LOL.

Marcus86GLHS
11-18-2008, 06:32 PM
this looks like a very comprehensive and well organized project that you have illustrated here, no doubt all your goals will be reached given the thought and analysis you're putting in.

call me old school but nothing beats the looks of the stock 87 CSX wheels. where's the pix of the engine?

mcglsr2
11-18-2008, 07:14 PM
As I hunt for tires for my wide-tire CSX-VNT, I'm finding that it's getting harder and harder to find wider tires for a 15" rim. Hell, goodyear doesn't even *make* a 225/50-15 anymore. I'd factor that into your wheel choice as well...how hard is it gonna be to put new shoes on it when the time comes? Most wider tires these days are on larger diameter (17" and up) rims. Damned 'progress', LOL.

Also consider that the 6.5" / 225 tire cars had a different steering rack to prevent rubbing on full-lock turns (the wide-tire 89 CSXs had a Shelby Z rack installed). Sure, you can be careful....but there's limited wheelhouse space on these old things, compared to the caverns on newer cars.

And my CS? Put it this way...my family won't have to buy me a coffin when the time comes, LOL.

i have thought about larger diameter wheels, but i'm not sure i would like the look of larger wheels on the car. almost like the wheels are too big for it. however, the availability of tires (or lack thereof) has called to mind several concerns. my current plan is to use 1" wider rims on my stock tires (205/50s). these can take up to an 8" wheel. my current understanding is that the tires, with a larger wheel, will have better traction potential then the 6" wheels (and i could be very wrong, this is a place i am somewhat ignorant in right now and need to do more reading). also, since i'm trying to emphasize a performance upgrade here besides just appearance, the lower weight of the 15" rims is very attractive. and i get to keep my newish stock sized tires.

i am VERY concerned about the fitment of the wheels. i posted a previous thread about the fitment of these wheels (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31486) and am lead to believe it won't be a problem. perhaps it's foolish to accept one answer and roll with it, but when i go to purchase the wheels, i would have already talked with the seller regarding fitment on my car. i've done some measurements for various wheel widths and offsets, and i think the setup mentioned in the WHEELS post will work...if i'm wrong, please someone set me straight...


this looks like a very comprehensive and well organized project that you have illustrated here, no doubt all your goals will be reached given the thought and analysis you're putting in.

call me old school but nothing beats the looks of the stock 87 CSX wheels. where's the pix of the engine?

i hope my goals are reached :) i'm there with you, i like the look of the centurion II wheels on the car, sort of a sleeper look, but not quite...but sort of. and if they were 7" wide, they would be staying on the car... :)

as for the pic of the engine, i just ran outside, snapped a pic and here you go:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/EngineBay.jpg

it's not too much to look at right now, a lot of it needs cleaning and repainting. i'll get to that at some point (currently i don't have a garage so that really limits what i can do). also, the bay recently got some fresh oil sprayed all over it when the camshaft rear plug came off... it just needs a good cleaning :)

i will start to do some of that when i go to install the injectors and such. also, i'll revise the intake plumbing when i look at a new FMIC.

mcglsr2
11-20-2008, 02:41 PM
WIDEBAND O2, EGT & DATALOGGING
i've been jumping around on which wideband unit to use. i originally had my eye on the AEM UEGO. how much simpler can it get? you install the sensor, put the gauge somewhere, and off you go. and then i got to thinking. the reason for the wideband in the first place to help me tune the custom calibration i'll be doing. well, if i'm using it to tune, i will need to know various things that are going on. i guess i need to datalog too. okay, no sweat. let's see what datalogging capabilities the AEM EUGO has...huh, lists A/F ratio in a hyper terminal on a PC, no rpm, no boost, nothing else. um, no thanks. i guess i could get a separate datalogging tool, but why make it more complicated? there are units that can do wideband and datalog. okay, moving on. eventually i came across two that i had a tough time deciding between: zeitronix and innovate motorsports. tech edge was also suggested to be a good, cheaper alternative. and i agree, it probably is. for some reason, though, they just didn't do it for me. not sure why. but i kept gravitating back to the previous two. the reality of it is that for the level of tuning i'm talking about here (after all, it's not like i'm dealing with a 2,300hp super tweaked monster of a drag queen), any of these 3 would more then cut it. they are all good choices. however, i ended up deciding to go with the zeitronix unit, called the zt-2. i like it's smallness, the software it comes with seems fine, seems easy to set up and maintain, people on this forum have said they liked it, and it monitors the things i want.

some other considerations: what to do about display/gauges? my gauges currently consist of an auto meter boost gauge, intellitronix narrowband O2 gauge, a nordskog digital EGT gauge (which doesn't work) and the stock boost gauge that reads to 15psi (which is pretty much useless). zeitronix sells this sweet LCD display that can show boost, AFR, EGT, lambda and some other stuff. but i've already got some gauges that show that. and now i hear [read] that supposedly my auto meter gauge isn't very accurate (compared to the zeitronix zt-2). auto meter is a good, reliable brand, so that makes me wonder whether it's really true. anyway. to begin with, i'm getting rid of the nordskog gauge. i am done with them (great customer service, by the way). do i replace them with another EGT gauge, such as auto meter? they have a digital cobalt that will match my boost gauge pretty nice. but so expensive. since i'm getting rid of the nordskog (gauge AND sensor, i don't trust either), i'm starting from scratch. and zeitronix sells an EGT sensor. that works out of the box with the zt-2. so there's my EGT problem solved. i'll talk about displaying it in a later paragraph.

the zt-2 can monitor boost as well. i already have a boost gauge, however, i want to datalog boost, so i can either do that by keeping track of the boost pressure during a run while also watching the road and trying not to kill myself...or i just let the zt-2 datalog it and send it off to my laptop that will accumulating this info. i will need to buy their special MAP sensor (which sucks) but whatever. i guess i could try to modify my existing MAP sensor to send the signals over the wire to the zt-2. and it may work (but probably not as the units they use are 3.5 and 5 Bar respectively, whereas i'm using 2 and 3 Bar respectively). because i want to (and need to) trust the data i'm getting from this unit, i'll go ahead and fork out some extra cash for their sensor.

i plan to datalog the following things from my soon to be purchased zt-2:

rpm
boost
egt
a/f ratio
throttle position via TPS
knock


that should be enough to accurately tune the car.

now let's talk about displays. while it's all well and good that the laptop i have hooked up will be getting all this great info, that's only while i'm tuning the car. at some point, i will be done tuning (lol, you are never done tuning, right? :) ), and the laptop won't always be in the car but i will still want to know to some degree what's going on. there's that LCD display they have...but if i did that, it would make my other gauges redundant, which is not necessarily a bad thing. however, that means my a-pillar gauge pod would have to go away, and vanity forces me to admit that i rather like it. i don't want to get rid of it just yet. it currently houses my boost gauge and narrowband A/F gauge. the latter will be removed, so now i have an available spot. even though the zt-2 will be taking care of EGT i still want to see it, along with A/F. thus i decided to go with the round zeitronix multigauge, zr-2. it can display EGT, boost, A/F, lambda, etc, just like the LCD, but not at the same time (the LCD can display up to 4 things at once). using the zr-2, i can see A/F and EGT and i get to keep my a-pillar pod which i like. that LCD sure is sweet though...:nod:

i'm going to put the wideband O2 sensor in the stock location. i know i'm not supposed to, but i don't feel like plugging it and drilling/tapping some other spot on the downpipe. if this sensor fails on me prematurely, then i'll reconsider doing it that way. in the mean time, that's where it's going.

update (12/02/2008)
ordered the zeitronix wideband O2 and datalogging system, with a ZR-2 gauge, 3.5 Bar MAP and EGT probe...

update (12/08/2008)
The Zeitronix wideband controller and assorted stuff arrived today. Here are some images...

This shows the controller, the ZR-2 multigauge, 3.5 Bar MAP sensor and assorted wiring/connectors:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Zeitronix/wideband.jpg

This image shows the profile of the ZR-2 gauge - it's a skinny guy for surface mounting (mine happens to be going in my pillar pod):
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Zeitronix/gaugeprofile.jpg

Shown here is the Bosch O2 sensor, EGT probe and wiring, and harness for the O2 gauge. I must admit, the connector between the O2 sensor and the harness looks pretty robust:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Zeitronix/O2sensor.jpg


update (01/08/2009)
i installed the wideband controller box under the dash. i used zip ties to hold it in place, tied against a support just under the glovebox. it's out of the way here, and not permanently installed incase i need to remove it for any reason. it's also secure enough such that it's not going anywhere. i tucked the data wires ontop of the support (in between the relays and glove box interior) and zip tied it there. the RJ-11 splitter you see in the pic splits the data signal between my multi-gauge in the pod and the serial laptop connection. a feature of this controller is the ablity to send the signal to two different display/datalogging units.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/004.jpg

i'm using a serial-to-usb adapter since my laptop doesn't have a serial port. the adapter is tucked in with the data cables. i cut out a notch in the relay access panel to allow the usb cord to fit through. when not in use, the cord will be wrapped up and sit un front of the access panel - the golve box closes just fine. when in use, the cable will be routed out the bottom left edge of the golve box, there's a huge gap there and the cable fits perfect. that way i won't have to leave the glove box open during datalogging sessions.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/005.jpg

here you can see the cables tucked away behind and to the side of the relays:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/006.jpg


update (01/09/2009)
i got the wiring all ready to go. it consists of the harness that plugs the controller into power, ground, rpm signal, tps signal, narrowband O2 output, and 3 additional wires for the connection of the 3.5Bar map. i need to tape the stuff up and then install it in the car. i've also fed the O2 wire harness through the firewall as well as the EGT wire. so that stuff is just sitting under the hood right now waiting for the O2 sensor and EGT probe to be installed and hooked up.

i've decided to change around the order in which i install some things, notably the wideband O2. i've updated the original post with this info.


update (01/11/2009)
i installed the O2 sensor and wideband controller today. overall, it went pretty well. i ended up "making" two more harnesses, one was the harness supplied with the controller that hooks into everything - i added harness tape and the appropriate connections to the wires and the other was the 3.5 Bar MAP sensor harness - this one carries the signal from the unit under the hood to the controller harness. the only thing i haven't hooked up yet is the EGT. i took some pictures.

the controller with all connnections (even EGT - it's just not hooked to anything under the hood yet):
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/008.jpg

i had to change my laptop connection around. it turns out that if you plug the USB-to-serial adapter into the laptop, the mouse goes crazy and you can't do anything. i haven't done enough testing on this yet. the solution i have for now, once the car is running, is to first plug the adapter into the computer, THEN plug the adapter into the controller serial port. i guess the computer needs to load the driver BEFORE getting a signal there or else all hell breaks loose. so here's the connection setup for the time being:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/009.jpg

this is the 3.5 Bar MAP sensor/sender under the hood. apparently, it's really accurate, more so then most boost gauges. i was please to see, however, that the boost pressure reported by this and the boost pressure reported by my Auto Meter gauge were very close. that makes me feel pretty good about the accuracy and quality of Auto Meter gauges.
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/010.jpg

the new O2 sensor harness connector under the hood:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/011.jpg

the zeitronix multi-gauge. this gauge measures AFR, lambda, boost and EGT at the press of the button. i currently have it set for AFR:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/013.jpg

once i had the unit up and running and was confident that it was reporting the narrowband readings correctly to the computer (remember, the factory O2 harness is now unplugged under the hood), i decided to whip out my laptop and take it for a spin. i wasn't actually doing any tuning yet, just getting used to how the unit datalogs. so far i am pleased. my ONLY complaint is the a get really high spikes in the RPM reading. from like 4000 to 43356. annoying, but the rest of the data is accurate. i'll figure out what's going on here later (i'm calling the company tomorrow to talk about it).

what i've noticed in the 20 min or so i drove the car around is that:


the stock computer boost control is not very good (my hoses may also be too long). the boost gets all the way up to 20psi and then slowly comes back down.
when i use my MBC, set at 17psi, the boost stays at 17psi for the duration. this seems to work better.


i will look into my stock/MBC setup. the hose runs are too long and i need to rearrange things here.

also, my AFR during these runs was pretty good, however i did see a lean spot early in the RPM range and i'm running rich at idle/low RPM. so there's certainly tuning i can do to help things along. i'm going to enjoy using this unit :)

here's a shot of what the datalogging looks like on my laptop (this was taken later after the runs, which is why there's no USB plugged into the latop):
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Wideband/014.jpg

update (03/11/2009)
the zeitronix unit still seems to working good. i'm getting a funky tach signal though so i've been talking with the peeps at zeitronix. they gave me a couple suggestions that i need to try out, like making sure it's got a good ground. i think it does, but hey, i've been wrong before and it's an easy thing to change. i'll do that and we'll see what happens.

update (03/17/2009)
everything is all good now. i used the tach gauge signal coming off the ECU as the RPM signal. much, much better. i also wired in the knock sensor as a User input, so i'll be able to tell from my logs if i'm near detonation.

update (07/22/2009)
i forgot to update this post - regarding the mouse jumping around. you have to disable the "microsoft serial ballpoint" hardware device. then you can plug in the usb without having to do anything else. when i was plugging it in before, windows was thinking that i added a serial mouse (go figure), so the signal from the zeitronix unit was interpreted by windows as mouse signals. once that hardware device was disabled (serial ballpoint), the computer doesn't freak out when i plug in the USB.

mcglsr2
11-21-2008, 10:02 AM
i go out to the car last night to check the water/coolant level. i open the radiator cap and was surprised to find this sludge crap on it. i look in the neck and there's more of it. wtf?? at first i had horrible thoughts of holes in the engine block, seeping crap into the coolant. but as i started to think about it, i thought it less and less likely. the water is not oily (the car has fresh oil) but more like mud. it's like i just put dirt in there and now it' kind of muddy. i talked with my dad about it and the only thing we can come up with is that mixing different brands of antifreeze might have caused this.

when i get a chance, i'm going to flush out the radiator and clean this mess up. i hope no permanent damage has been done. first time i've ever seen this. anyone know what this is/what causes it?

racer-xerols
11-21-2008, 11:12 AM
I've seen radiator "stop leak" cause a tan-ish mud buildup. Does it feel gritty?

mcglsr2
11-21-2008, 12:49 PM
I've seen radiator "stop leak" cause a tan-ish mud buildup. Does it feel gritty?

i didn't actually feel it, but it looks more slimy then gritty. and it's a dark gray, charcoal color, not tan at all. and on top of that, i nor my dad has used stop leak on it. we put the head back on the car after the turbo rebuild we refilled the radiator - didn't notice the sludge, although come to think of it there might have been a little...certainly more now. i'm hoping it was just a bad mixture of antifreeze. or even if it is stop leak (radiator never leaked that i know of), a good flushing will get rid of the junk. fingers crossed...

JuXsA
11-21-2008, 01:21 PM
i bet its sludge... just flush your coolant system and add new coolant.

mcglsr2
11-21-2008, 06:10 PM
i bet its sludge... just flush your coolant system and add new coolant.

that's the plan. it sure looks like sludge. i say it was like "who the hell put mud in my radiator!" lol. i hope to get to it sunday. monday at the latest.

mcglsr2
11-26-2008, 02:22 PM
flushed out the radiator today. it looks a lot cleaner. that was some nasty stuff.

TurboSedan
11-27-2008, 03:33 AM
i wish i could put some $$$ into my CSX. lately it's all been going to my Regal GS. the CSX is probably my nicest looking car too.

i have tomorrow off work, i'm going to try to find that build sheet.

------------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS

mcglsr2
11-30-2008, 02:12 PM
INTERIOR
i am getting carpet from Auto Interior & Upholstery. i cut out some of the carpet and sent it to them and now i'm waiting to hear back. once we agree upon a carpet color, i will be ordering it.

while over the christmas break, i plan on pulling everything out of the interior except the dash, putting down new carpet, putting seat covers on the seats (temporary until i decide what to do with them/get more money), and cleaning and repainting the interior panels. just giving the inside an overall much needed cleaning, top to bottom. also, i want to replace the headliner board in the car, and will have that shipped as well.

at the end of the day (or several days really), the interior should be looking a LOT better. too bad the exterior won't match but that will come later.

update (12/08/2008)
i picked up a new headliner from a 4-door in the junk yard, it's in great shape. i'll need to get it reupholstered since it's currently red, but the backing looks really good.

update (12/13/2008)
i purchased some miscellaneous interior parts from a CSX that was getting parted. some of things i picked up was some seatbelts, exterior window trim, some of the console trim pieces, and some other stuff. i'm really looking forward to this arriving so i can do the interior all at once.

i also ordered some new carpet from Auto Interior & Upholstery. i ended up getting Dark Gray (#807) as this was the closest match to the existing carpet in the car. the carpet has already arrived at my parents and is waiting for me to show up and install it. this should really help freshen up the interior as the current carpet looks just plain horrible. hopefully there won't be any hidden rust underneath. i opted for the normal backing from them (which does NOT have the extra rubber that's on the factory carpet). should save some weight, though it probably doesn't matter all that much. i'm not worried too much about noise, the car is already loud as it is.

update (12/20/2008)
and so it begins! i started the interior work this morning with my dad helping out. i took pictures along the way, but i'll wait to post then when i get back to my place. we took the seats out, all the trim, the center console and ripped the carpet up. SURPRISE! no, it wasn't rust (in fact, no real rust, just a little surface stuff that got cleaned and painted over - i was very happy about this) but rather...the broadcast sheet! wait. this makes broadcast sheet #2 for this car. were there multiple sheets...? anyway, i have two now.

we cleaned the interior trim pieces - the rear quarter panels are in rough shape, crumbling and sun rot. they'll clean up nice though (at least nicer then they are now). trim pieces will get painted starting tomorrow morning, then we try to put the carpet in. it doesn't have cut-outs, but is molded, so this should be interesting.

i have a rats nest of wires under the dash for the gauges, shift light control, boost controller switches, all kinds of stuff. it's a mess. i started documenting what was there, as i'm going to clean it up. i'm also getting rid of some gauges and replacing them with other ones. time to re-do the wiring!

the rear quarter panels and seats removed:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_01/01-01.jpg

broadcast sheet number 2! this is where it was found, under the rear passenger foot pan carpet:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_01/01-02.jpg

the carpet removed. just a tad bit of surface rust on the driver side:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_01/01-03.jpg

the crappy wiring that needs to be redone:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_01/01-04.jpg



update (12/21/2008)
day 2 of the freshening up comes to a close. we started painting trim pieces this morning. it turned out...not quite as good as i hoped, but WAY better then what it was. the issue is the rotting panels, the paint doesn't really cover up some of the missing plastic pieces. so be it. at least it's got fresh and new looking paint, no more discoloration from the sun. ideally, i want to replace the rear quarter trim panels with ones that haven't rotted at all. then it would be perfect. the smaller trim pieces, like the rear high mount brake light trim, door sills, pillars, those all turned out really good. however, they also had significantly less rot. but as i said, it all looks WAY better then it was.

we also got the carpet installed. we thought that was going to be a much harder job, turned out not so bad at all. we cut out a sort-of square for the shifter and for the dash support, slapped it in the car and started trimming. turned out really well. the front seat belt buckles are installed and the center trim piece is installed. i'm really happy with how it turned out, and the color, while a little lighter (#807 dark gray) then the original carpet, it's a really close match.

the only bad news from today is that we discovered the driver side rear quarter window has a broken bracket - it's the bracket on the rear of window that's bolted to the body. the bracket itself is broken. we have some errands to run tomorrow morning so while we are out we'll stop at a junk yard to get another one. i really hope we can find one, i'm not sure what we'll do if we can't find one...

things are moving along great. it's amazing how much work this is, though it's deceiving. i'm exhausted at the end of each day

painting the interior parts:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_02/02-01.jpg

i laid out the seatbelts and scrubbed them down. they look a lot better now:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_02/02-02.jpg

new carpet in place:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_02/02-03.jpg

putting back in the console and seatbelt receptacles:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_02/02-04.jpg



update (12/22/2008)
i didn't get too much done on the interior today. it was really windy which killed any painting we might have done. we did drop some stuff off at the reupholstery guy: the headliner, my sun visors, and the little piece of fabric that goes on the turn signal lever - i dropped that off too, maybe the guy can whip me up a nice replacement.

we were successful at the junk yard, picked up two brackets for the rear quarter window, one for each side. it turns out that was smart as the passenger side, while still holding decently, was on the brink of collapse. as i was unbolting it from the shelby to install the replacement one, it started to fall apart. so it was due for a change. we lucked out though, there was only 1 shadow in the yard. just one. phew.

the seat covers are installed - they look pretty good considering. not as good as getting the seats reupholstered, but it was also a lot cheaper. i'll get the seats redone a little later when funds free up - too much i want to do with the engine right now. however, the seats were in horrible shape, so this is a nice interim solution. they went on pretty good, it was a lot easier with the seats out of the car. i couldn't imagine trying to do this with the seats in the car, talk about a PITA.

i'm getting close to finishing stuff up

the seat before putting the cover on:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_03/03-01.jpg

the seat covers in place:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_03/03-02.jpg

the vacuum block installed, boost controllers and solenoids moved to strut tower:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_03/03-03.jpg



update (12/23/2008)
everything is pretty much done and ready for reinstallation tomorrow morning. today i finished hooking up the vacuum block. i hope that thing doesn't leak or else i'll be pissed. i could tighten the fittings down more i supposed, i wasn't sure how tight i needed to make them.

i swapped out the wiper motor for another one i picked up from the yard. the "new" one works much better. the old motor would barely move the wipers, it was pathetic. so that's all better. i also replaced the cowl just below the windsheild. the old one had one of the screw stud things broken out. i replaced it with another from the yard.

we applied another and final coat of paint to the interior trim pieces and let them dry all day. they get installed tomorrow morning.

i re-wired the under dash stuff, and i created a wire harness to support this. the wires support the following stuff: cobalt boost gauge, 2 LED boost controller switches, my amplifier switch, the auto meter shift light control box, and the zeitronix wideband controller (when it gets installed). i'm taking power from the fuse box, using the power windows wiring. since the car has no power windows, nor do i ever intend on installing power windows, i figured this was a good place to take it. i just snipped the wire (tan) that ran off to the [would be] motors and used that for my hot wire. i stuck a 15 amp fuse in the socket (didn't have a fuse at all originally). i fired up the car and everything seemed to work okay, no obvious shorts. that's good.

i also spliced in some wires to the blue connector going to the logic module, specifically the O2 signal wire and the throttle position signal wire. the zeitronix will take care of the O2 input (it outputs narrowband to a wire, which will connect to my O2 splice). the original O2 sensor wire under the hood won't have an O2 sensor anymore. the other wire will tell the zeitronix unit what the position of the throttle is, so when i datalog i will know if i'm at WOT, or half throttle, etc. these wires are just hanging loose until i get the zeitronix unit into the car.

we picked up the headliner, visors and turn signal fabric thingie today. looks pretty good. i have everything together (at least i think i do) ready for tomorrow morning.

the vacuum block with all the connections:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_04/04-01.jpg

the two wire splices i made on the blue connector for the O2 signal and TPS signal:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_04/04-02.jpg

the wiring harness that replaces that rats-nest of wire crap under the dash:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_04/04-03.jpg

new headliner (that was a real PITA to fit in):
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_04/04-04.jpg

i got the turn signal cloth shield thingie reupholstered as well, it looks pretty good:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_04/04-05.jpg

what under the dash looks like now, cleaned up:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_04/04-06.jpg



update (12/24/2008)
it's all done! the car is buttoned up and looks really good. the headliner was a complete b1tch to put in. i used a headliner board thing from a 4 door, and the holes were completely off. even the holes in the front where the visors go was off. i have no idea why. so the fit there was a pain, but it's in and looks good. the seat covers turned out pretty good too, and were a much cheaper solution for the time being, rather then getting it reupholstered. i could even use them long term if wanted to, they turned out that good.

the interior looks really good overall, and helps to clean the car up a lot. it still needs an exterior paint job though, but a step at a time

the rear seats and quarter panel:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_05/05-01.jpg

the front seats (and my dad):
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Interior/Restore_01/Day_05/05-02.jpg

that's pretty much for the interior this time arround.

mcglsr2
11-30-2008, 05:18 PM
SUSPENSION
okay, so a while back i put some eibach progressive springs up front. i haven't replaced the ones on the rear, they are still stock. anyway, back when i did this, i put on new bearing plates but did not replace the coil seats. which might have been a mistake.

the car likes to pull to the right. i've got new tires on it, had it aligned. still pulls. no idea why. other then the springs. so my theory is this: the original springs wore a grove into the top seats. when i replaced the springs with the eibach ones, the spring and groove didn't quite match up, so i'm thinking the spring(s) are being torqued a little bit and making the front act strange.

the instructions for the eibachs say that the eibach logo printed on the springs should right side up, and facing out. on one of them, it is. on the other, it's not facing out, but off to the side. so i'm thinking that may be part of the problem. at minimum, i will be able to rule it out if nothing changes. so over christmas, while doing interior stuff, i'll be redoing the seats on the front struts. i might end up putting the rear eibach springs on. don't know yet.

update (12/01/2008)
ordered the upper and lower strut spring seats from NAPA. i pick them up tomorrow.

update (12/08/2008)
i picked them up. they are currently sitting in the box, waiting to be installed, which will happen over christmas when i do the interior.

update (12/13/2008)
while i had the car up on jack stands today, i took a look at the eibach springs on the front, to confirm whether the logo is right side up, facing out. lol, not even close. on the drivers side, the logo is facing out, but upside down. on the passenger side, i can't even see the logo, and most likely upside down as well. who the crap installed these...oh, wait, that was dad and me. doh!! i need to confirm that indeed the logo is supposed to be right side up, facing out. if so, these things are all screwed up, no wonder the car handles a little strange.

update (12/22/2008)
new top coil seats are installed. will this make a difference? i don't know yet. i might need to get it realigned, although i tried to set the camber adjustment back to what it was before pulling the struts out.

it turns out that i didn't need the bottom coil seats - the spring sits directly on the strut. no rubber seat. there wasn't one when we installed the eibach's either. not sure what cars have them? the lower coil seats DO fit on the strut. however, i'm not sure if that make the car ride a little higher or what. since they weren't there when the spring came off, i wasn't going to put new ones on. i'll take the two lower seats back to Napa for a refund.

if i have time, we'll try to get the rear springs installed. i'm not sure yet if that will happen.

update (01/01/2009)
we didn't get to the rear springs, just didn't have enough time. i'll have to do them some other time.

mcglsr2
12-02-2008, 09:34 AM
huhokay, the round of purchases has been made. i got the injectors, 3 Bar map, wideband kit, strut spring seats, some parts from the junk yard & new locking lug nuts. i have to call the guy to purchase the wheels - he's on the west coast though AND he opens shop late, so i have to wait until this afternoon to get the wheels.

also, i've updated some of the posts. check the original post at the bottom to see which other posts have been updated.

mcglsr2
12-08-2008, 12:14 PM
the wideband shows up today, the wheels are not too far behind. i'm thinking i'll get those mounted this week, in the next couple of days hopfully. i've got some negotiations going on right now for interior parts that i'll hopfully be able to get my hands on before christmas.

and last but not least, i've got the injectors and MAP on the way from fwdp.

to come: clutch, BOV, ported head (maybe?)

mcglsr2
12-08-2008, 09:11 PM
added images of the zeitronix wideband to the WIDEBAND O2 & EGT section (post #17)

TurboSedan
12-08-2008, 09:41 PM
i'm going to try to find that build sheet.


after reading your PM about the finding your buildsheet, i tried to find it in the rear seatbacks yesterday. the seat covers are zippered on, but i couldn't figure out how to un-zip them??? ah well. i'm actually selling the car pretty soon here so i guess the new owner can find it :D

this is a great thread, i love these. good luck with everything!

----------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS

moparfwdsleeper
12-09-2008, 12:06 AM
after reading your PM about the finding your buildsheet, i tried to find it in the rear seatbacks yesterday. the seat covers are zippered on, but i couldn't figure out how to un-zip them??? ah well. i'm actually selling the car pretty soon here so i guess the new owner can find it :D

this is a great thread, i love these. good luck with everything!

----------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS


:pI'll look for it.

I agree, this thread rocks!

mcglsr2
12-09-2008, 12:36 AM
after reading your PM about the finding your buildsheet, i tried to find it in the rear seatbacks yesterday. the seat covers are zippered on, but i couldn't figure out how to un-zip them??? ah well. i'm actually selling the car pretty soon here so i guess the new owner can find it :D

this is a great thread, i love these. good luck with everything!

----------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS

well happy hunting, to either of you guys :) i didn't undo the zipper - the lady redoing the seat upholstery did them (however she does them). personally, i have no idea how she did it - i guess she has some magic super upholstery zipper undoer tool. or something.


:pI'll look for it.

I agree, this thread rocks!

thanks :D

mcglsr2
12-11-2008, 02:54 PM
the new wheels arrived yesterday (with 2 broken center caps yay!). i'll have them put on the car this friday, so i'll update with some pics then.

Badger
12-11-2008, 11:06 PM
Im really enjoying reading about your project. Keep up the good work!

p.s. did you ever consider the 15X7 Fiero wheels?

mcglsr2
12-12-2008, 07:16 AM
Im really enjoying reading about your project. Keep up the good work!

p.s. did you ever consider the 15X7 Fiero wheels?

no i didn't, didn't even know about them. it's a moot point now but i'll take a look at them, i have a vague idea what they look like but i never paid close attention.

for the longest time i've wanted to get a black wheel, although i guess i could have painted the fiero wheels black :)

edit: so i just looked at them. i'm not so much a fan of them, although the size would be right. i'm curious to see what the slipstreams are going to look like on the car. i hope it's decent.

edit edit: so i found some more wheels - were you talking about the mesh black ones? if so, those are pretty nice, and could have potentially been an option.

mcglsr2
12-13-2008, 02:16 AM
okay, so i got the wheels installed today after work. i'm probably biased, but i think it turned out excellent, much better then i thought it would. those wheels look damn mean on the car, great effect.

i took some pics before i got it done. i need to follow up with some after shots (it was took dark by the time i got home). i will take some tomorrow morning and post them up in the wheels post (post #4). i am very pleased with the results, which is somewhat funny since my first thought when seeing the flat black as an option was "not so fond of the flat black." after seeing them on the car, i know it was the right decision. a glossy black rim with a polished lip just would not have looked right...or rather achieved the look i was sort of going for. :)


Oh and the Slipstreams FTW

most defintely slipstreams for teh wIn!!!!1! lol

mcglsr2
12-13-2008, 03:18 PM
updated the wheels post with pics of the car with the new wheels on it...

Bozo
12-13-2008, 11:57 PM
Man, keep up the great work!! You are helping me continue to work on my car!!!

Looks GREAT!!! :thumb:

mcglsr2
12-14-2008, 12:06 AM
haha, thanks! i do what i can ;)

mcglsr2
12-14-2008, 12:38 AM
updated the INTERIOR post (#25) and the SUSPENSION post (#26). i also added some additional info to the original post where the list of todo items is, to help located posts pertaining to the todo item.

mcglsr2
12-17-2008, 11:49 PM
HEAD
i've decided to go the ported head route. i'm not sure if the car will actually need it, as in it might make enough power. but what's enough power? lol. nothing exotic here, just a lightly ported head. talking about a 782 swirl here, by the way...

ideally, i want to get the injectors et al installed and get the car tuned, dyno it and then add on the head to see what kind of gains i get. however, it looks like i might be welding the EGT bung on the exhaust manifold. so the stock might be coming out...great time to drop in a ported one... i might just do it all. i would really love to do the "back to back" comparison, but i don't think i want to go through the hassle of pulling the again a second time.

to start off, i needed to get a "new" head to have ported. i ended up getting a T1 head from a junkyard (off a station wagon of all things :) ), however i ended up swapping it for a different head. i was worried about the T1 being abused, more likely to crack, etc. i got a 782 TBI head of a 90+ shadow. it's pretty clean. here are some pictures of it:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/Head/cylinderheadtop.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/Head/cylinderheadfront.jpg

it's pretty clean, considering. i have done NO cleaning on this thing yet. what you see is how it was in the yard.

it looks like i'll be converting the car to a roller cam in the process, a 90+ TBI roller. slightly different specs from the 87 turbo slider in the car now, but not too much difference (if the specs i have are to be believed, just a hair less duration and a lot less overlap). well crap, since i'm "upgrading" cams i guess i might as well do the PT lifter thing as well. i will need to get new exhaust valves, ones specifically for a turbo. i will pick up a few other things from FWDP, like springs and valve stem seals. i will try to reuse as much of the stuff off this cam as i can. oh, and i'm going to swap over to a square tooth sprocket to keep the belt consistent.

update (12/18/2008)
i've decided to install the ported head later. that means i'll be able to do a "back to back" test at the dyno on the gains from a ported head. i'm not really sure what to expect. when i'm installing the injectors, wideband and egt, i'm not going to pull the head. i'll do that stuff with it in the car. later on, i'll pull it to drop in the ported head, and perhaps re-evaluate the locations of the WBO2 and EGT sensors.

update (12/19/2008)
i dropped the head off at the machinist - $50 to disassemble, clean and check the head. not too bad. incidentally, i hit the jack pot with this guy. he loves himself some turbo dodges! he had several 2.2s sitting around his shop in various stages of completeness, and had 2 chargers out back. he pointed out several bins of parts, telling me they were full of K car stuff. suffice to say, we had a good chat. we were talking about the reassembly once i get it back from porting (he does porting as well), he was like "i'll hook you up man." apparently he hasn't had the chance to work on one of these heads (other then for himself) and is looking forward to. it looks like i'll also be getting a 5-angle valve job - i asked for a 3. i think this is the beginning of a beautiful relationship :) when i go to pick up the head, i'll have to take the shelby for him to see.

oh, and about PT lifters...i was going to do the PT lifter mod...until i talked the the machinist guy. i mentioned it to him, and he seemed hesitant about it. so i asked what was on his mind. he said the issue there is that if any space gets betten the rocker and lifter, when the gap gets taken up, it might hammer on the lifter a little, which might push the washer down into the aluminum head. which would widen the gap even more. he's had good luck with the stock lifters. and for some reason, i trust this guy. just a feeling i got. so could this happen? i certainly don't know. but what i do know for sure is that this guy knows more about these heads then i do. is he right? i don't know. maybe yes, maybe no. it is really worth the hassle of him proving to be right? nah. i'll take my stock lifters and be happy, thanks :) if i were building an all out beast and wrapping the engine up to 7k on a regular basis, maybe i'd do this. but i'm not, so i won't.

update (01/16/2009)
the head was shipped off today to moparzrule for a stage 1 porting job. i can't wait to get it back :) i also bought some stuff from FWDP, things like valve springs, exhaust mannifold studs, head gasket, new head bolts, valve seals, etc. once i get the head back, i'll take it and the stuff from FWDP back to the machinist. i'll also need him to drill out the turbo coolant hole in the thermostat housing as the head doesn't have one at this point. once i get the assembled head back, i'll install it along with the injectors and 3 bar MAP.

update (01/21/2009)
the head arrived at the place of porting today. it should be finished in about a week or so. when i get it back, off to the machinist for reassembly!

update (01/22/2009)
i have been told the head is finished! he spent almost all day on it. lol, talk about turn around time :) if he gets it in the mail today or tomorrow, that means i could see the head as early as next wednesday. excellent :)

update (03/13/2009)
dropped off the head at my machinist. in a week or so i'll get back a fully assembled ported head with an 89 TBI roller in it. i'm really looking forward to it. i had the guys there give me their opinion on moparzrule's porting job - they throught he did a really good job. thanks moparzrule!! :D

update (03/16/2009)
i got a set of 11mm head bolts from FWD for when the ported head is ready. i've since decided to use ARP studs. i think in the long run i'll be happier with the ARP hardware.

update (03/30/2009)
just picked up the head from the machinist! i think it looks pretty good and i can't wait to drop this on the car - however, it will have to wait. until i get a garage. which should be in a couple months. i really like the guys at that machine shop, they are good people. they hooked me up, here's what they did:

drilled and tapped for the turbo coolant line (head didn't have it)
took care of all the seals, replaced lifters, provided turbo exhaust valves
5-angle valve job
replaced sprocket because it had some damage on the teeth
replaced/added the connectors on the thermostat housing
and threw in a box of arp studs for cheap!


and some pics:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/Head/DSCF0018.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/Head/DSCF0019.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/Head/DSCF0020.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Engine%20Bay/Head/DSCF0021.jpg

i will update more when i actually install the head.

1984rampage
12-18-2008, 12:04 AM
Whos doing the porting?

mcglsr2
12-18-2008, 12:41 AM
moparzrule. the price is right, and from what i've read and discussed with him, i'll think he'll do a good job :)

mcglsr2
12-19-2008, 12:03 AM
saturday is when the interior work starts! i'll be taking pictures, and post them when i get back. also, in between christmas and new years i'm going to install the +40 injectors, wideband & egt, and 3 bar map. can't wait :D

mcglsr2
12-20-2008, 09:04 PM
i updated the INTERIOR post (#25) with what was accomplished today. i found another broadcast sheet under the carpet. that makes sheet #2 for this car. sup with that?

i took a bunch of pics, i'll udate the INTERIOR post with those pics. they are pretty interesting.

pretty funny, and man i wish i could put up the pic right now of what the car looked like when this happend (but can't yet) - as i'm working in the car, one of the neighbors stops by. the car is completely gutted, EXCEPT for the trunk. that's still intact, and my subwoofer is sitting there (although the amp has long been removed). i mean nothing is in the car, even the steering wheel is gone. so the neighbor looks it over, and goes to me: "installing a boom box, eh?" LOL. man, i couldn't imagine having to pull this much $hit out of the car just to install/uninstall a friggin subwoofer...it was funny. so i laughed and said not quite, we're doing blah blah blah... it was nice of him to show interest, and i appreciated it. but talk about no clue :)

mcglsr2
12-21-2008, 07:36 PM
updated INTERIOR post (#25) with accomplishments from today. so far so good!

mcglsr2
12-22-2008, 06:19 PM
updated INTERIOR post (#25) and SUSPENSION post (#26). also, i updated the OP with new statuses on stuff.

i put in a vacuum block today. i'm not sure where this should go, so i'll just stick it here. i made the vacuum block awhile back, i just never got around to installing it. i ended up having to move my boost controller solenoids to the driver side strut mount to make room for the block on the firewall.

it's installed now, i just have to finish hooking up all my hoses and whatnot. it essentially sits between the intake manifold and brake booster.

i'll post some pics when i get a chance, won't be for several days though.

mcglsr2
12-23-2008, 08:05 PM
updated INTERIOR post (#25) with stuff from today.

tomorrow, it all goes back in the car. i'm looking forward to it :)

mcglsr2
12-24-2008, 09:04 PM
the INTERIOR is done! (post #25) holy crap that was a tremendous amount of work, but well worth it. you'll see the results in the images when i post the pics. great stuff!

mcglsr2
12-26-2008, 11:24 PM
so the car died on the trip home yesterday. so this puts off my plans to do the injectors and wideband for a bit. some have suggested in another thread that the timing belt or HEP went (i haven't had a chance to even begin to troubleshoot). if it's something that simple, i may be able to work on the next couple things. i need to get the car running before i can work on injectors and such. heavy sigh, i was really looking forward to that.

mcglsr2
12-29-2008, 02:12 PM
taking a look at the car today to see what the crap is wrong with it. i've got my fingers crossed that it's as simple as a bad HEP or something like that. if so, then in the next couple days it will be time to swap out the injectors and MAP sensor, and install the wideband.

mcglsr2
01-01-2009, 02:07 AM
i added in pictures to the INTERIOR post (post #25) for each of the days that i did stuff. as i said in that post, overall it turned out really good. now i wish i could drive the car :)

i mentioned earlier that it died on the way home. since then i've checked the timing and everything looked okay. i pulled out a sparkplug, hooked it back up and held it against the A/C compressor while the car was cranked - no spark. not even a weak one. i held it against the radiator, no spark. that could be why the car won't start. i connected my multimeter to the coil + and battery -, and saw 10.5 V as the car cranked. i should be seeing 13 or so. i'm thinking the relays in the power module went bad (this is the 3rd module). it's still under warranty and i've got one coming in over night at napa, so i'll pick it up tomorrow morning. replacing this module worked once before - i hope it does it again...

mcglsr2
01-08-2009, 10:41 AM
update - i haven't done much with the car since it's not currently working (again). i don't have a spark again, not sure yet what's causing that this time. i'm still troubleshooting it, but i'm also back to work now so that really limits my time with the car during the week.

however, in the meantime, i installed the wideband controller but haven't hooked it up yet since i haven't put in the O2 sensor or anything. i want to get the car working again before i throw on the +40s, 3Bar, new EGT sensor and wideband O2. the way things are going, it looks like i might have a ported head to put on as well.

if i can't figure out what's wrong with the car soon, i'll create a thread asking for help/ideas/suggestions. i'm starting to get frustrated. the car won't start, there's no spark - the list of culprits is not that big and i should be able to narrow down the trouble. we'll see.

mcglsr2
01-08-2009, 09:04 PM
the car runs now, turns out it was a bad coil. it still needs tuning though, and i think it might be buring oil somewhere. i am sending the head out for porting very soon, i think i will wait until i get that back and assembled, then do that, the injectors, EGT and 3 Bar MAP all at the same time. i'm still thinking on this.

i've updated the WIDEBAND & EGT post with a couple additional pics at the end, showing the new home of the wideband controller. it's post #17.

mcglsr2
01-09-2009, 03:19 AM
INJECTORS & MAP
i'm replacing my current injectors (which are the 804s) with some +40s. that should take care of any fuel shortages i have right now, assuming the fuel pump is up to the task.

i also picked up a 3 bar map from fwdp, that will be replacing the stock 2 bar. nothing too special here, just some "normal" upgrades.

i'll take a couple pics when everything is installed, it won't be too exciting though as this is a fairly routine upgrade and i'm sure you've seen it/done it before :)

update (03/11/2009)
installed the 3Bar. injectors will get done when i get the head back from reassembly.

update (07/18/2009)
i've decided that i'm going to go with 72 lb/hr injectors over the +40's. i know i won't be maxing these guys out, probably not even close, but i'm a little worried at the DC the +40's will be at. and since i'm doing my own cal, i'll have enough control over the injectors such that the larger ones (hopefully) won't be an issue.

update (07/22/2009)
well, that sucks. come to find out, the 804 injectors i thought i had are in fact not 804s. they are 5277895, which are 34# injectors. these are barely any better then the stock ones! we purchased 804s, but in the packaging were these instead. so a mix-up was made somewhere during the packaging process. oh well. that sort of explains why i was seeing such a difference in the AFR between the cal and the car. i told the cal i was using 36# injectors when in fact there were 34#. it won't be a problem anymore, as i will ensure that 72# ones are used next :)

mcglsr2
01-09-2009, 03:30 AM
FMIC

goals:

identify a fmic to replace the stock i/c
determine plumbing, replace pipes


this post will detail the solution i have for the FMIC.

i am looking an intercooler from treadstone. it's the TRV185 and looks like this:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Intercoolers/TRV185.jpg

here are some specs:

overall size: 20" x 12.25" x 3.5"
core size: 18.48" X 6" X 3.5"
core surface area: 110.9 sq.in.
hp: 720
cfm: 1080


it's pretty big, maybe a bit too big for my application, but i really wanted a vertical flow intercooler that had the inlet/outlet on the same side. i'm thinking this will help with packaging, but i won't really know until i start removing the bumper, stock IC, etc...

i've put a lot of thought into horizontal vs. vertical flow intercoolers and i've done a lot of reading. my opinion is that given the same core dimensions, the vertical IC will be a little better then the horizontal. it will have more tubes so it will flow better, and depending on the height it should still efficiently cool the charge. i believe that the savings in pressure drop will make up for any loss in efficiency the vertical might have over the horizontal.

my goal is to get the turbo outlet pressure as close to the manifold pressure as i reasonably can. i run my boost pressure off of what the manifold sees, not what's produced by the turbo (which is the stock configuration for this car). as i raise boost, the pressure loss will increase through the intercooler. i've never tested it, so i don't really know what the pressure loss of the stock IC is, but i've read many times that it's not good. assuming for sake of example that the loss is 4psi at 17psi of boost, that means the turbo is making ~21psi, even though my car only "sees" 17psi. even more, if i want 20 psi, assuming about 5psi loss, the turbo is spinning at 25psi. as the turbo creates denser and denser air, it's going to heat that air up more and more. the IC won't be able to take all that heat out (it's already not the greatest), so my charge heats up more, sacrificing HP and increasing the chance of preignition or detonation. with the FMIC, if i get a pressure loss of 1psi or less, the turbo is not working that much harder, so the charge is not heating up that much more, which means the IC doesn't have to work that much harder, meaning a cooler charge and more power.

of course, this is all theory, as i have never done any testing. but this is what i think, and why i'm looking at a vertical core intercooler.

here's a thread discussing the differences on horizontal vs. vertical ICs: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31250

moving forward with those thoughts in mind, if i do some rough math, at about 300HP (which is around what the car will see), i should be getting a pressure drop of about 0.625psi, which is phenomenal. if that holds true to the real world, i will be really happy. lol, i'm not sure how i will know though. i will need to think about that.

as for piping, i will use 2.25" pipes. 2.5" is probably too big for what i am trying to do, and 3" is overkill. i'm not flowing enough cfm's to make any use of 3" at all. it's just more space to pressurize.

update (03/20/2009)
i'm going to stop at home depot today on the way home from work and pick up some styrofoam. i'm going to mock up the intercooler to see if it will actually fit where i want it to, and what stuff i might have to move/adjust to make it work. then i'll stop at joannes to grab a hot knife to cut it and shape it. there's a bracket right behind the bumper that i'm worried about.

i slapped it together, here are some pics of the mockup:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Intercoolers/IMG_2137.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Intercoolers/IMG_2136.jpg

the intercooler i'm looking at now has an additional option - i can get a core either 6" in height or 9" in height. the additional 3" is supposed to cool the charge even more (and it costs more). since i'm not sure yet which one i am going to get, i mocked up the 9" core one. afterall, if it fits, then the smaller 6" core will fit for sure. so the next step is to try to stuff this thing behind the front bumper...

update (03/24/2009)
okay, i trial-fitted the mockup last night. it's going to be interesting. i want to hack/move/adjust the original supports, etc as little as possible. i would prefer no cutting. however, with the 9" core, i don't see how that will happen. at the very least, i will have to adjust the vertical brace that supports the grill. if i stick the IC up as far as it will go leaving the brace where it is, about 2" or so hangs below the bumper fascia. that's not going to work either.

however, the 6" core WILL fit. it sits about even with the bottom of the bumper fascia. this position means that the IC will not be visible through the CSX grill, and that the only air it will be getting is from underneath the fascia and through the small opening in the fascia. the upside is that the IC will be tilted forward some (because of the angle of the brace) which will encourage air to pass through it from the bottom, but i wonder if it will be enough...

as for not cutting, if i don't want to cut out some of the body, i will need to get an A/C condenser from a omni or charger. my understand is that these are 2" narrower then my stock one but at the same height. A/C efficiency will go down a little but who cares.

mcglsr2
01-09-2009, 03:43 AM
i just updated the original thread with links to the posts, that way you don't have to scroll through to try to find them, you can click on the link and head straight there.

mcglsr2
01-11-2009, 06:13 PM
i updated the WIDEBAND & EGT post (#17) with installation pics. the next big things are going to be the injectors, 3Bar MAP and ported head...assuming i can figure out where the crap the car is burning oil from...

mcglsr2
01-16-2009, 12:37 PM
PCV UPDATE
ever since removing the stock airbox, the PCV has run to the ground. i attached a long rubber host to the end of it and pointed it out the bottom of the engine bay. this is not the best solution, and recently i've blown a cam end cap off (i also had the head redone, so that could have caused it) and the occasional oil smoke out the tailpipe. i'm not really sure if the PCV is causing this, but i've read that it needs to see some vacuum (which is why it went to the airbox in the first place). suffice to say it doesn't see vacuum right now, it sees 1 ATM. perhaps this is my oil smoke trouble. anyway, it's easy enough to fix.

my dad had a pipe made up for me (i was on travel) and is going to send it to me. it's got a nipple on it for the PCV hose to connect to and will sit between the cone filter and compressor.

i'm also going to get a cheap catch can off eBay so i can minimze the oil that goes through the turbo and intercooler.

update (03/09/2009)
i haven't done anything else with the pcv system other then throwing a mopar breather cap on the valve cover (it looks like this: http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopbotven1.html). however, the smoking still happens so that makes me thing the pcv system isn't the culprit - at least not back pressure in the crankcase. it's possible the pcv could be clogged or something, but i'm not sure that's related to my smoking issue. at some point, i'll put a catch can or something in the car, but for the time being i'll continue to use the breather cap.

mcglsr2
01-16-2009, 01:26 PM
i added a new topic, PCV UPDATE post #59. if anyone has any suggestions, thoughts, ideas or criticism as i move through these updates, please post it up. i'm interested in seeing what you guys think :)

mcglsr2
03-10-2009, 10:57 AM
it's been a while since i have done anything with the car, it seems to be still burning something, either oil or coolant, i'm not sure which yet. it comes and goes, like if i let the car idle for an hour, it will be fine, then will smoke for a little bit, then it will stop for a while, then start to smoke again, etc etc.

it's almost like it smokes when the thermostat opens up because it's getting to hot. then after the motor cools down, it stops smoking until it gets hot again and thermostat opens, etc. i don't KNOW that it's doing that, though. that's just what it seems like.

anyway, i updated ECM thread (post #11), i've been playing around with the turbonator LM stuff.

i'm looking to rent a house soon and get out of the apartment, gah i can't wait for a garage. so much more stuff i'll be able to do once i have a garage.

WickedShelby88
03-10-2009, 12:24 PM
Sometimes as the seals in a turbocharger wear it can seep coolant and/or oil into the intake path. That might explain your mysterious smoke. Other things can be hairline cracks in the head, but usually you will see the temp gauge act a little erratic when that is the case. If it seems to run great and your not popping the dipstick out of the tube when you hit a moderate level of boost then I think your piston rings are probably not at fault. Just a thought. I've read your thread through for the most part and I must say as already has been stated this is a very well organized project. If I had more of a budget for my car I would love to do something similar, but here up north weather is more of a burden. It seems the LM is quite nice to work with when it comes to tuning. Sounds like you have a good idea of how to juggle your goals with patience as well so your not doing too much at once when it comes time to troubleshoot any issues in the future. Time and time again I've been warned myself not to do too much at once that way you can go back and figure out what went wrong it something doesn't work like it should or as expected. I happen to work in same town as Autometer is located and know a customer service rep who works there so if you ever have any issues with your gauge let me know and I will help out as much as I can. Welcome to the forum. I know you've been here a little bit now, but I myself have been absent. Good luck on this car. I can tell its in great hands. Its nice to see a CSX get the proper treatment:thumb:

mcglsr2
03-10-2009, 02:45 PM
Sometimes as the seals in a turbocharger wear it can seep coolant and/or oil into the intake path. That might explain your mysterious smoke. Other things can be hairline cracks in the head, but usually you will see the temp gauge act a little erratic when that is the case. If it seems to run great and your not popping the dipstick out of the tube when you hit a moderate level of boost then I think your piston rings are probably not at fault. Just a thought. I've read your thread through for the most part and I must say as already has been stated this is a very well organized project. If I had more of a budget for my car I would love to do something similar, but here up north weather is more of a burden. It seems the LM is quite nice to work with when it comes to tuning. Sounds like you have a good idea of how to juggle your goals with patience as well so your not doing too much at once when it comes time to troubleshoot any issues in the future. Time and time again I've been warned myself not to do too much at once that way you can go back and figure out what went wrong it something doesn't work like it should or as expected. I happen to work in same town as Autometer is located and know a customer service rep who works there so if you ever have any issues with your gauge let me know and I will help out as much as I can. Welcome to the forum. I know you've been here a little bit now, but I myself have been absent. Good luck on this car. I can tell its in great hands. Its nice to see a CSX get the proper treatment:thumb:

thanks so much for the kind words :) it's hard for me too to not just do everything at once. i currently have a 3Bar, +40s, a ported head, and associated parts all sitting in my apartment right now - instead of on the car :) it kills me to see it sitting there but i just have to keep the patience up :)

regarding the turbo, its possible that it could be the issue. it was rebuilt by TU and according to their website "...the original Turbine Shaft Bearings and Thrust Bearings are always returned to the customer for inspection." except that i never got these with my returned turbo, so for all i know the 20+ year old bearings could still be in there (i hope not).

anyway, i'm going to end up pulling the head regardless to install the ported head, so i can check for cracks then. while it's off, i'll pull the turbo and send it back to TU - it's still under warranty.

regarding the rings, it is true that the dipstick isn't blowing off - it never has, and certainly shouldn't now with the breather cap. i don't think crank case pressure is the issue...

WickedShelby88
03-10-2009, 02:50 PM
Well said. Sounds like you'll have it narrowed down in not time!

mcglsr2
03-11-2009, 03:36 AM
i burned a new cal, installed the 3Bar and went for a spin. summary: i'm happy. the car is sitting at 15psi currently and won't go above that until the +40s are in. i'm thinking about taking it to the track here tonight just to see what it's got so far. more info about the cal and how the car drove here: POST #11 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=403731&postcount=11)

interesting side note, the stupid power steering pump bracket is loose again (did i completely tighten it the first time around? :confused2:). i need to get to all the bolts and get them nice and tight. i wonder why it's loose in the first place... it likes to rattle between 1000 and 2000 rpms, and each time i hear i freak out because i think it's knock or something. then i'm like "oh yah, bracket. gotta fix that."

i think i will go to the track tonight if i get off of work early enough...

EDIT: oh and i forgot, my 1G BOV is most definitely leaking. when i had the car set to 17psi before via the MBC, i suspect the MBC was set higher and 17psi was where the car was "settling" at. under WOT, i would hear a whooshing sound. i assumed it was the sound of the turbo through the K&N cone filter (albeit fairly loud). however, running the car at 15psi tonight, i hear no whooshing (well, actually i do, just a tiny bit, which IS the turbo). so that tells me i had a big 'ol boost leak in the form of a 1G BOV. this is good to know. i can see a new BOV in my future...

mcglsr2
03-11-2009, 02:49 PM
TRACK & DYNO

Initial Dyno Runs(10/30/2008)
the dyno sheets from the 2 runs that i did - note the AFR...
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Track%20and%20Dyno/2008-10-30/dyno_run_01.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Track%20and%20Dyno/2008-10-30/dyno_run_02.jpg


Drag Strip (03/11/2009)
heading out to the strip tonight to see what the car currently has. the tune is pretty good i think, i datalogged some pulls and things to be a-ok. i'll be running a max of 15psi, no 2-step/staging mod, no anit-lag. i'm not even going to launch hard. i'll post up the time slip and weight of the car when i'm done. this should serve as a reasonable baseline.

huhokay, back from the strip. i learned two, very important things: 1)i need a new clutch. it can't hold a launch, as i discovered my 3rd trip down the lane. i was at maybe 1000 to 2000 and spin-city. i was ready for 4th gear and i hadn't even gone 20 feet down the track. and 2) i suck at driving. the 60' times are killing me. i just don't know how to launch the car. i'm going to start a new thread called "teach me to drive" - i really need some advice.

so for the results, i made 3 trips before the smell of my clutch convinced me to pack it up. the first run was the best. my goal was 14.9 or better. here's the results of the first run:

Run #1
15psi MBC, good tread on BFGoodrich g-Force sports, a little over half a tank of gas, weight with driver is about 2980lbs
R/T: 1.469
60': 2.641
1/8: 10.123
MPH: 75.40
1/4: 15.370
MPH: 94.10

sooo, i need a new clutch and then learn how to drive. i think high 14's are reasonable with my current setup.

here's some pics from the super-fast 15.3 run!
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Track%20and%20Dyno/2009-03-11/IMG_2103.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/Track%20and%20Dyno/2009-03-11/IMG_2105.jpg

lol, and a video for good measure :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OM6ku_PPSxo

mcglsr2
03-13-2009, 02:08 AM
i just put in a deposit for a quaife. looks like i'll be getting an LSD after all. i'm pretty stoked. good deal on a group buy.

hop on over to this thread for more info: http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?p=459060#post459060

thanks to austrian_dodge for setting this up!! :D

mcglsr2
03-13-2009, 10:46 PM
LSD

i've been thinking about an LSD for a long time. the first one i was looking at was a Phantom grip - the two plates and spring type. i'm not sure why, but the idea never sat well with me. and then i learned about quaife, the holy grail of sorts when it comes to LSDs...and a price tag to match. so while i could dream about one, it never seemed very likely that i would get one. then later on i learned about OBX, a decent LSD on the cheap. except that it won't fit the A555, and i really didn't want to go through the hassle of creating a hybrid trans. so it basically came down to quaife or nothing. and with the price of the quaife sitting at $1500, it was looking like nothing.

i stumbled across a thread like 2 days ago for a group buy on a quaife LSD. the discount was generous, very generous. all of a sudden, it looked like the quaife was a possiblity. so i read through the thread, thought about it for a while, then put in my deposit on the quaife. i probably wouldn't get this chance again for a long, long time. i could always try to buy a used quaife for cheaper...but here's a golden opportunity for a new LSD under warranty. so i jumped at it. looking forward to it :evil:

mcglsr2
03-14-2009, 07:23 PM
BOV

goals:

mod or replace 1G BOV


i am currently running an unmoded 1G talon BOV (painted black to match the VC, etc) right now with a filter on it. it works great up to around 17 or so psi. around there is should start to leak. i say "should" because i honestly don't know what it holds. i was up to 21psi on the dyno, and i was assured by others that it was most certainly leaking on me. i can't tell, other then there's a lot of "whooshing" noise coming from under the hood. how much of that is due to the open element air filter or the BOV, i can't tell.

my options are to either mod the one i currently have or to purchase a different one. i am currently leaning towards getting the HKS SSQV, from what i hear/read it's a very good BOV. and i won't have to screw around with it. i get raped in the wallet, install it, and forget it. i like to modify stuff on my car, but i don't think this is one thing i feel like screwing around with, so i'll shell out the cash for a good unit.

update (13/14/2008)
i pulled the trigger on the HKS SSQV unit. it'll arrive sometime soon - i won't be ready to do anything with it right away, but at least the BOV situation is resolved (still has to be installed though).

update (13/18/2008)
it arrived today. here are some pics of it out of the box:

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/BOV/ssqv_01.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/BOV/ssqv_02.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Shelby/BOV/ssqv_03.jpg

right now i'm debating on whether i'll install it in the upper pipe after the intercooler or in the lower pipe before the intercooler. i also might get the purple insert for a lower sound - i'm going to wait on that though to see what it sounds like with the silver insert it came with.

mcglsr2
03-14-2009, 07:43 PM
CALIBRATIONS

goals:

create a custom cal
modify cal through testing to achieve best numbers


once i have a socketed LM, i'll need to create cals to put on it. this post is where i'll document the things i do with the cals, the changes, versions, tests and results.

update (01/23/2009)
the injectors and MAP arrived long ago. i've been waiting to get some other stuff sorted out, like burning oil. in the meantime, i've been playing with the Turbonator LM. i've decided that the first time i try the turbonator cal should not be after i've installed a ported head, larger injectors and a 3 bar MAP. too much stuff going on to troubleshoot, i won't be able to tell if any issues are with the calibration itself or the changes i've made to it. so, while the car is still mostly stock and running (although burning oil), i should check out the turbonator cal now. so i compiled a 2 Bar cal, scaled the fuel for 36# (804 injectors), turned on the CEL knock, and burned the cal to a new chip. when i get a chance, i'll stick this chip in the car, cross my fingers and try to start the car. if all goes well, then i'll know that i can successfully compile the turbonator cal, which will help me troubleshoot/tune the car when i install the other stuff.

update (01/25/2009)
i installed the new chip, and got a very poor idle. when i blipped the throttle, it seemed to rev fine. but just wouldn't idle for crap. i need to compare tables to see if i screwed something up...

update (03/09/2009)
i burned a new chip with turbonator LM v8 on it, this one works much better. the poor idle has been resolved. i modified it for 2Bar and 36# injectors, which is what i'm currently running. i drove it around and it works well. i'll need to tweak here and there, and i went WOT for a bit, i think i hit cut out. i need to check the boost limit though, i didn't adjust that. anyway, this calibration seems to be viable, so the next step is to stick in the 3Bar and burn a new calibration accordingly. i won't actually do tweaking until i get the injectors in, but it's good to know that the car will at least run in a pinch if i need it to.

update (03/11/2009) - calibration: 87TLM8 version 2 revision A
i installed the 3Bar map and burned a new cal with the following specs:

3Bar
804 (36#) injectors
15psi (with overboost shutdown at 17psi)

with the injectors i have, 15 psi is a safe boost level and i used 17psi as the overboost shutdown value as it was just shy of 100% injector duty cycle.

i also tweaked the boost goal tables and messed a bit with the fueling tables (though not much). i took the car out for a spin, and tested it using the computer-controled boost settings and my MBC (set for 15psi). overall, i'm really pleased. on the computer-controlled setup, the boost ramped up like it was on the MBC, although it overshot my goal of 15psi. i suspect i'll need to tweak the wastegate settings a bit, perhaps start opening it a little sooner. i shimmed the wastegate so i might not have much of an option there. the AFR under WOT was around 12:1, which is right where i want it to be. the only other issue seems to be a really rich idle, however this could be do to the autocal having to re-learn, so i'm not sweating this right now.

driving impressions: the car pulls hard. when pulling from a dig it pegs 15psi almost right away and as i row through the gears it's back at 15psi. it feels like it continues to pull as the RPMs climb. i didn't spend a lot of time over 5500 yet, so i'm not sure if it starts to fall on it's face then or not. i need to stick my laptop in the car and datalog a couple pulls before i get complete confidence. but so far so good :evil:

update (03/17/2009)
after doing some logging, i think my AFR is a little off. where the cal says i should be at 11.1-ish AFR at WOT, i'm actually at like 12. there are two reasons i can think of for this: 1) the ported exhaust manifold is letting a little more air flow through 2) the stock fuel pump can't keep up with the fuel demands.

regarding #1, i'm going to bump the numbers in the PumpingEfficiency table to see if there's an impact on the AFR. if there is, then good, that was the issue. if there isn't, i'll really skew the numbers rich to see if there's an increase in fueling. if not... then #2 is likely, my pump just can't keep up. however, at 15psi, even with a rich AFR of 12-11, it should be able to supply this. so we'll see.

update (03/30/2009) - calibration: 87TLM8 version 2 revision B
i have an issue with the wideband not agreeing with the cal - meaning that fueling at certain points are supposed to be, say 11.4:1 according to the cal. however, when i do a pull, the wideband will show something like 12.5:1. so there's a discrepancy between the cal and wideband. i'm not sure why. i thought it might be because the pumping efficiency table isn't quite right. so i made some adjustments to it, and the AFRs started to get closer to the cal values. to get this, i increased the PE (VE) of the car. however, i'm not sure i like this as i haven't even stuck the ported head on yet and i'm already approaching the max 1.00 limit in that table. i will need to rethink this.

update (03/31/2009) - calibration: 87TLM8 version 3 revision A
a new version 8 of the LM code was released today, so i snagged and it made changes to it according to my version 2 settings. in summary:

3Bar
804 (36#) injectors
15psi (with overboost shutdown at 17.5psi)

in addition to the changes carried over from version 2, i decided to remove the changes to the PumpingEfficiency table - i want to see if i can get the cal and wideband to align using a different approach. i also tweaked the FuelFullThrottle and FuelPartThrottle tables. the FuelPartThrottle table was WAY too lean, especially if you use a MBC. i can easily get 15psi at part throttle, and it was set for like 14.7:1 or something like that. i adjusted FuelFullThrottle to be 12.2:1 and then richen up to 11.75:1 at max boost. these two numbers should be Lean Best Torque and Rich Best Torque. i'm not sure it's exact, so tweaking will be required. For FuelPartThrottle, i left it lean at vacuum, stoch (14.7:1) at 0"/0psi and then enrichened it the same as the FuelFullThrottle table.

driving impressions: the car drove good, except (as expected) the wideband was off, sitting around 12.5 at WOT (it should be between 12.2 and 11.75). i think i might try adjusting the FuelBatteryOffset, maybe bump that up a smidgen to compensate for the slightly larger then stock injectors i have (fingers crossed). i could always resort back to the PE table. we'll see. at part throttle, i am MUCH happier. as MAP increases, the AFRs are inline with the WOT table. good. the only bad thing is that now my tach is sticking, it will stay at like 2K-3K RPMs when coasting to a stop, stay there for a couple seconds, then come down to ~900. no idea why. i'm hoping it's because the computer is confused and a battery pull/relearn might do it some good. we'll see.

update (04/02/2009)
wow, so okay, go easy with the FuelBatteryOffset table. i bumped each node up (increased) 2 and the car didn't like it at all. it wouldn't even idle. interesting. in hindsight, i probably moved them too much, maybe a smaller hit might help. i don't know though. these injectors are very close to stock, so it might not matter right now. when i get the +40s in there, i might need to revisit this table. but probably not...

update (07/22/2009) - calibration: 87TLM9 version 4 revision A
i used the newest verion 9 of the turbonator code base. the big modifications are:

3Bar
72# injectors
12psi (with overboost shutdown at 27psi)
target 12.2 to 11.5 AFR at full and part throttle


since this cal is very different from version 3 due to the size of the injectors, i didn't carry any changes from the previous version (other then things like CELFlash, etc). i left the pumping table as it was. i am expecting to have to tweak some stuff, but i want to get the car running first. and since the motor is currently in pieces, i'll have to wait a bit to actually try this cal out.

driving impressions will have to wait until i can actually drive the car :)

mcglsr2
03-14-2009, 11:22 PM
CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL

goals:

get a new clutch that will hold the hp/tq the car produces


so the car needs a new clutch. i've decided to purchase one from TU, i need to give chris a call and talk to him about what i should be getting, but i suspect i'm looking at either the TU "Ultimate" Ceramic Street N Strip (6 puck) or the the TU "Ultimate" Kevlar Street N Strip.

i will end up installing/having this installed the same time i do the LSD and moly transplate.

mcglsr2
03-18-2009, 03:06 PM
added some pics to the BOV section (POST #69 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459967&postcount=69)) of the SSQV unit i just got.

mcglsr2
03-19-2009, 12:19 AM
i have been inspired by Pat's engine bay - specifically his paint job. i'm giving serious consideration to repaining the engine bay (once i get a garage). the bay as it stands now has not changed since the car rolled off the lot, paint wise. there's a lot that could really use a good clean up. after this, and a nice paint job for the body of the car, i think it will look really good :D

i'll create a new post for for the engine bay/body paint job after i've given it some thought. it's still some time away...

mcglsr2
03-21-2009, 12:46 AM
updated the FMIC post (POST #56 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426801&postcount=56)) - added some pics of the mockup.

updated the TRACK & DYNO post (POST #66 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=458078&postcount=66)) with some pics of me at the track where i did my blazing 15.3 run! lol because i haven't learned yet how to launch my car - but working on it!

mcglsr2
03-24-2009, 06:51 PM
uodated the FMIC post (POST #56 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=426801&postcount=56)) with my findings from the trial-fitting last night.

WickedShelby88
03-27-2009, 08:24 AM
Looks good. When I watched your video the car definitely sounded good. How is your A/F when your in the throttle moderately?

mcglsr2
03-28-2009, 04:19 PM
Looks good. When I watched your video the car definitely sounded good. How is your A/F when your in the throttle moderately?

lol, thanks :) i'm not sure of the AFR at part throttle off the top of my head, i'll have to check. but i think it's around 14.7 or so. it's not rich. and it will also depend on the boost pressure. i'll get some numbers and post them

WickedShelby88
03-29-2009, 01:34 PM
It sounds about right. It also sounds like the car would benefit from better gear ratios, but of course I don't now how your clutch was working etc. Definitely coming a long way and those wheels look great on it while its in motion!

BadAssPerformance
03-29-2009, 01:40 PM
lol, thanks :) i'm not sure of the AFR at part throttle off the top of my head, i'll have to check. but i think it's around 14.7 or so. it's not rich. and it will also depend on the boost pressure. i'll get some numbers and post them

14.7 is ok for cruise (no boost) but lean as hell when in the throttle and boost...

mcglsr2
03-29-2009, 02:20 PM
14.7 is ok for cruise (no boost) but lean as hell when in the throttle and boost...

agreed. i'm not sure what it is right now. however, i'm tuning it for stoch at cruise (no boost/vacuum). as the MAP rises, i will be adding more fuel to compensate. i'm not doing much with it right now though as i still need to install my EGT and i want to wait until i can see what those temps are before i do too much with part throttle. so whatever the car is now is what the factory/turbonator cals are set to. i haven't done much tweaking yet.

mcglsr2
03-29-2009, 02:23 PM
It sounds about right. It also sounds like the car would benefit from better gear ratios, but of course I don't now how your clutch was working etc. Definitely coming a long way and those wheels look great on it while its in motion!

it possibly could, although i'm not sure that i will change them. i don't really want to mess with the trans too much. it would be nice to get the RPMs down a little on the highway. and while i'm trying to get the best 1/4 mile time for the car, that's not the main thing i care about. so i don't know yet...

and thanks for the comment on the wheels, i really like them and am happy i went with the rotas. :)

mcglsr2
03-30-2009, 01:43 PM
updated the head post (POST #41 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=417786&postcount=41)) with some pics of the reassembled head!

mcglsr2
03-30-2009, 08:09 PM
How is your A/F when your in the throttle moderately?

alright, so i checked this evening. cruising on the highway, my AFR is around stoch, 14.7. which is where i want it. if i lightly apply the throttle, it stays around 14.7. this is not necessarily good. when i tweak the cal, i'll set it such that as boost rises, more fuel will be added (at part throttle). this will be interesting as the car is still in closed-loop mode here, so it will try to center around 14.7. i need to see what changes to the fuelpartthrottle table make - maybe it will be as simple as that. another thing i need to fix is that when the car is in hard decel, like after a spirited run, vacuum is like 28-29", i'm getting 12-13 AFRs. this is waaayyy too rich IMO. this is wasting fuel. i will adjust the tables, shooting for 15-16 AFR max on hard decel.

BadAssPerformance
03-30-2009, 09:20 PM
Off throttle engine braking at 28" of vacuum... I wouldnt let it run too lean/hot.

mcglsr2
03-30-2009, 11:32 PM
Off throttle engine braking at 28" of vacuum... I wouldnt let it run too lean/hot.

yah, i will get the egt probe hooked up before i do too much

WickedShelby88
03-31-2009, 01:58 AM
Ahh the fine line between loading the engine too much and having it fall flat on its face when you take off to burning some stuff up.. Yeah I didn't really think of that. Definitely having an EGT is a must when tuning to work with a wide band. Now JT likes to burn fuel like its going out of style, but I think that is the reason he hasn't burnt up a piston in that beastly shadow of his!

mcglsr2
03-31-2009, 06:23 AM
Ahh the fine line between loading the engine too much and having it fall flat on its face when you take off to burning some stuff up.. Yeah I didn't really think of that. Definitely having an EGT is a must when tuning to work with a wide band. Now JT likes to burn fuel like its going out of style, but I think that is the reason he hasn't burnt up a piston in that beastly shadow of his!

oh for sure - as i'm tuning if have to choose, i will always go for extra fuel over better mileage. i want to try to reduce fuel consumption at certain points, but not at the expense of the car :) i would rather buy more gas then a new engine...

BadAssPerformance
03-31-2009, 08:22 AM
...Definitely having an EGT is a must when tuning to work with a wide band. Now JT likes to burn fuel like its going out of style, but I think that is the reason he hasn't burnt up a piston in that beastly shadow of his!

EGT not required for most tuning with a WB O2. Actually these days I like saving as much fuel as possible, but yes, fuel saves pistons.

WickedShelby88
03-31-2009, 10:30 AM
EGT not required for most tuning with a WB O2. Actually these days I like saving as much fuel as possible, but yes, fuel saves pistons.

I guess you don't need an EGT, but it can help you keep an eye on how much heat could potentially be in the system. When the coolant gets too hot especially with a stock setup it can cause issues in the head real fast. Usually we are lucky enough the hg will release the unwanted pressure, but sometimes it can lead to cracking. I'm assuming here that a WB will be all you need as far as that goes, but couldn't an EGT help you choose which plugs to run as well?
I hear you on saving fuel that is why I am looking at selling my car and switching to something with a manual.

mcglsr2
04-01-2009, 01:58 AM
It sounds about right. It also sounds like the car would benefit from better gear ratios, but of course I don't now how your clutch was working etc. Definitely coming a long way and those wheels look great on it while its in motion!


14.7 is ok for cruise (no boost) but lean as hell when in the throttle and boost...

so i made some changes to the FuelFullThrottle and FuelPartThrottle tables (read more about it in this post: POST #70 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=459978&postcount=70), under cal version 3). in summary, the "factory" FuelPartThrottle settings are no good. it's really lean. it assumes you don't have anything like a MBC and that boost control is completely handled by the computer. if you have bypassed the computer in anyway, this table really should be looked at. i enrichened it above 0"/0psi to essentially match my FuelFullThrottle table. at cruise with no boost, it's about 14.7-ish. as soon as you start to get boost, it jumps to 12.2:1 and then richer as boost climbs.

mcglsr2
04-02-2009, 11:16 PM
i added a new case to LM, one of the T-I with the MAP sensor integrated for easier access to the chip. now i don't have to unhook it from the harness and unscrew the back plate off. pics here: POST #11 (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=403731&postcount=11)

i also FINALLY found where the smoke is coming from - there's oil in cylinder #1. not sure how it got there, busted headgasket, leaky valve seals, rings (<- most likely), leprechauns, etc... so it's pretty much a given that the head has to come off. i have a nice ported head here to replace it, but if i have to do rings, then i might do a CB, stronger rods, all that stuff. so my "plans" can totally change here depending. man i so need a garage.

WickedShelby88
04-04-2009, 12:28 PM
The T2 in my old lancer was a similar animal. It used oil, but more importantly would shoot the dipstick out under hard acceleration or max boost levels for a T2. It was #1 in this car also from a previous head gasket failure where it sat. If you plan on going all out look into a long rod setup or running a tall deck. CB's are only such a common setup because they are well "common". I always say be different and make more power more reliably. Sounds like that would cover your goals!

mcglsr2
04-07-2009, 02:06 AM
i created a video compilation of all the changes i am making to the car. it's only half complete because...well...the car is only half complete. i'll update the video as i finish stuff on the car.

i put a link in the OP to the video in my gallery -> here's the link: CSX #581 Update Compilation in gallery (http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=12014&nocache=1)

and here's the vid on youtube if you prefer that:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b42RaNyGVlA

mcglsr2
06-24-2009, 02:00 PM
huhokay, so it's been several months since i've been on the site here. lots of things going on. the car has been sitting for the most part this entire time, but good news is that i'm moving into a house. as in like tomorrow. that means a garage! finally! i've already picked out the engine stand and hoist i'll be getting. i can't wait to start wrenching on the car again. lots of things still need done according to INTRO page. once i get the house settled and spend the money on the necessary things for that, then i'll be getting back into the shelby. i'm really looking forward to it :)

cordes
06-24-2009, 04:25 PM
Congrats on the house. You will love having a garage even though it will end up too small no matter how big it is.

mcglsr2
06-27-2009, 11:31 PM
Congrats on the house. You will love having a garage even though it will end up too small no matter how big it is.

ha! ain't that the truth! it is too small! however, i do plan on spending some time in there. in fact, i stuck a computer in here so i could listen to music from my server while wrenching and look up the great info available here on TM when i get in a bind. i'm posting this reply from said computer while i move things around :)

cordes, man it's great to see you back online! :)

mcglsr2
07-06-2009, 09:29 AM
okay, so i pulled the head, intake and turbo off the CSX yesterday. i haven't had a chance to do anything with it yet, or look at the bores to check for scuffing, etc. some things that will get done are dropping in the new +40s, maybe install the new BOV, big can wastegate, re-route some of my boost hoses, install the polybushings mounts and bobble strut if i can figure out how, general clean up, stuff like that. and to finish it off swap out the head for my ported head. if my rings are bad, then i guess i'll be doing a lot more work - along the lines of a in-car ring change. we'll see.

i can say that i am glad to finally have a garage.

moparfwdsleeper
07-06-2009, 09:43 AM
Picks of said garage of BS:p

Congrats on the upgrade:thumb:

mcglsr2
07-07-2009, 11:55 AM
Picks of said garage of BS:p

Congrats on the upgrade:thumb:

thanks! here's a pic of the car in the garage:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l248/mcglsr2/Misc/garage.jpg
things are mostly organized but some stuff still remains to be done.

i examined things as i took them apart - found out something interesting. the fuel injectors i have are NOT the fuel injectors i thought i had. i thought i had the 804's, rated at 36#. turns out i have part number 5277895, which according to mini-mopar, were used on various engines starting late 1988 through 1993 on Turbo I through IV. They flow 34.85#, so not quite as much as i had assumed in my calibrations. this could help explain the discrepancy i was seeing in what i set the AFR to in the cal vs. what my wideband displayed. i'll be glad to get the +40's in there - i know what they are and i know what they flow. that should make setting up the cal a little easier :) i'll have to go back through my posts and update the fuel injectors accordingly.

cordes
07-07-2009, 12:21 PM
Did you actually get your +40s flowed? If so, what did they flow?

mcglsr2
07-07-2009, 12:23 PM
Did you actually get your +40s flowed? If so, what did they flow?

no, i didn't. i'm just assuming. i know there's got to be tolerances and such, but it how far off 52# can they be? am i being naive here?

cordes
07-07-2009, 12:28 PM
no, i didn't. i'm just assuming. i know there's got to be tolerances and such, but it how far off 52# can they be? am i being naive here?

IIRC Cindy just posted up in another thread that she has seen them range from 490cc to 560cc. That's a pretty big difference. Also, from what I have read the 804s started out as rejects due to flowing too much which were later marketed as slightly larger. I have also read that they don't really flow much more than stock injectors anyway, but I guess the tolerances can make a big difference.

ETA: I was correct, bu there is additional info on the second page here. http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18845&page=2

mcglsr2
07-07-2009, 12:32 PM
IIRC Cindy just posted up in another thread that she has seen them range from 490cc to 560cc. That's a pretty big difference. Also, from what I have read the 804s started out as rejects due to flowing too much which were later marketed as slightly larger. I have also read that they don't really flow much more than stock injectors anyway, but I guess the tolerances can make a big difference.

well crap. i'm going to be giving my machinist a call to see if he can hot-tank/clean some stuff for me, while i'm at it i'll see if he can flow my injectors. it's going to be a little while before they get back into the car, so i've got the time. cordes, my man, thanks for bringing this up ;) it would be just my luck that they are all over the place.

cordes
07-07-2009, 12:33 PM
well crap. i'm going to be giving my machinist a call to see if he can hot-tank/clean some stuff for me, while i'm at it i'll see if he can flow my injectors. it's going to be a little while before they get back into the car, so i've got the time. cordes, my man, thanks for bringing this up ;) it would be just my luck that they are all over the place.

There was a place mentioned, and I believe it is in that thread, which will flow them for $6 each if you can't find a place locally.

mcglsr2
07-07-2009, 06:27 PM
MISC ENGINE STUFF
this will be my catchall section for engine stuff that i don't really want to organize further.

update (07/07/2009)
i picked up a set of polybushings engine mounts, trans mount and bobble strut a little while back. today i started to install them. since i have the head off the car, i might as well take advantage of the (relatively) empty engine bay and do some work.

i got the passenger side mount installed and the front mount (down by the radiator) installed. let me tell you that one was a b1tch. ended up taking a hammer and a deep socket to finally get the old mount pounded out. the new polybushings one fit pretty nice, but i ended up have to flip the support bracket to fit it. whatever. i'm think i might need to center my engine when all the mounts are done...

update (07/22/2009)
the poly bushing proved to be a little trickly. the worst one for me by far was the trans mount on the driver side. also, the mounts that i was replacing were installed...a little different from what the directions on the poly bushings were. for example, the one on the passenger side was upside down. so, thinking it was like that for a reason, i installed the poly bushing one upside down. the front mount, by the rad, had the sleeve in the middle of the bushing, as opposed to offset like the one it was replacing. as i had mentioned in the update before this one, i had to flip the support bracket (which i wasn't happy with). the bobble strut was no trouble at all, then came the trans one...and the trouble. when i finally got it back in, i had to jack the trans up a ton to get the sleeve to line up. however, with the front mount sleeve lined up, i couldn't jack the trans up enough to get the trans sleeve to line up. either one or the other would line up, but not both. solution? flip the front support bracket BACK the way it's supposed to be. this pushed then engine up enough so that the trans sleeve lined up. now i need to go back and flip the passenger side mount so that the top is actually the top. i'm worried a little that the engine is all out of line now, however if it's level, i should be okay. so after some mount juggling, things seem to be okay. so here's a tip: install the mounts like the directions say to, even if your old mounts might be a little different ;)

as for painting, i cleaned up and painted some stuff like the fuel rail and the lower half of the 2-piece intake. eventually i want to do the whole engine bay, but i am just not prepared to yank everything out to do that. that will have to wait for another day. so in the meantime, i painted some of the things that i could. it should look a little better at least.

mcglsr2
07-08-2009, 03:06 PM
so a little while back i had posted that there was a buildup of sludge in my coolant. i did a half-a$$ed job of flushing, and that seemed to have cleared most of it up. for a while. then it started to come back. that had me scratching my head.

well, today i think i discovered the source of the sludge. as i'm taking things apart, i decided to yank the coolant overflow bottle and give it a much needed cleaning, and perhaps a paint job. lol, guess what i found inside of it. a piece of hose! i guess it used to be the hose that attached to the lid but had fallen off. a replacement hose was used from then on out, but that original hose never removed from the tank. so it just sat in there. my guess is that that's where the sludge was coming from. the hose slowly disintegrating. hopefully sludge won't be a problem any more. and i need to do a proper flush of the coolant/engine.

Chad T
07-11-2009, 10:23 AM
well crap. i'm going to be giving my machinist a call to see if he can hot-tank/clean some stuff for me, while i'm at it i'll see if he can flow my injectors. it's going to be a little while before they get back into the car, so i've got the time. cordes, my man, thanks for bringing this up ;) it would be just my luck that they are all over the place.

The injector place that will flow them for $6 each is here. http://injector-rehab.com/index.htm If you do this please post up your results. I've been thinking about larger injectors as well but don't want a set that's alll over the place.

Nice garage! :nod:

turbokid
07-11-2009, 08:38 PM
Yes very nice garage.
Sludge in the coolant is always scary.
Cant wait to get my csx =)

mcglsr2
07-24-2009, 11:11 AM
Yes very nice garage.
Sludge in the coolant is always scary.
Cant wait to get my csx =)

thanks! it's still a little rough but getting there.

the good thing (i guess) about the sludge in the coolant was that the car wasn't over-heating. however, it does have me wondering if the coolant passages in the block are perhaps a little clogged. i will check but i think i'm okay.

WickedShelby88
07-31-2009, 10:01 PM
The VNT I am working on that had a blown to he!! HG had chuncks of stuff blocking the two coolant passages on the number one side, but somehow the head wasn't real warped? Guess that was cause luckily it was running kinda rich and only at stock boost. I wonder if this engine has something similar. Hope not Scott. This one wasn't overheating either which I don't get.

knownenemy
03-21-2015, 08:18 AM
Subscribed!

Not to back track on you but...
I've looked at the same chip burner, and wasn't sure about it. Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Excellent, in formative thread. :thumb: