a413 won't downshift.

[Tony Hanna]

Took the Spirit for a couple test runs over the weekend and the transmission is acting goofy. It tries to take off from a stop in either second or third (not sure) instead of first. If I pull the shifter back into first while sitting still, it will shudder a little when the car first starts moving, then act normally. The 1-2 and 2-3 shifts feel OK but it's impossible to force a downshift with the throttle. Adjusting the cable had no effect.
Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
I've got a hunch that it's related to a valve hanging and have both the governor and the valvebody out of the trans ready to disassemble and throughly clean.
I'm also planning to adjust the bands, do a shift kit, and Chad's line pressure mod while it's apart but I want to make sure I get the shifting issue sorted out as well. Any tips on what to look at specifically as the cause of this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Also, while I'm thinking about it, is there any problem with tossing the spring for the accumulator and putting the piston/cover back in instead of plugging the ports? I used to do that to GM transmissions and the result was about the same as blocking the passage. In this case I figured it might help with firmer shifts and still let me use the regular port for checking line pressure.:nod:

Thanks,
Tony

[turbovanman²]

Sounds like a sticking governor and/or the kickdown shaft is sticking or stuck.

When you take it apart, just look at the bores/valves and see if they move freely.

Don't remove only the spring, this will cause a fluid loss.

[Tony Hanna]

Thanks Simon.
I'm curious about the accumulator though. How would it lose fluid if the piston and cap are still in place?

[turbovanman²]

Thanks Simon.
I'm curious about the accumulator though. How would it lose fluid if the piston and cap are still in place?

Well the piston will move up and will most likely open up both ports or ---- and leak fluid.

It only takes 10 mins to plug the galleys.

[Tony Hanna]

Well the piston will move up and will most likely open up both ports or ---- and leak fluid.
Ok, I must have had it backward in my mind then. I was thinking that the fluid pushed down on the piston and the spring was under it pushing back up. I figured with the spring out that gravity/fluid pressure would hold the piston in place (against the cap) and the cavity would fill with fluid. Since there's nothing there to compress and absorb the pressure spike, it would act just like having the passages plugged. I'll have to look at it again. I guess I might need to make a shim to take the place of the spring.


It only takes 10 mins to plug the galleys.

Right. I've done that before, but then you can't use the line pressure port for a gauge anymore right?

Thanks,
Tony

[Tony Hanna]

Something else I'm curious about. Shimming the "soft apply" portion of the kickdown servo. I've seen it mentioned in passing, but not in detail. Now from what I understand, the kickdown servo also functions as an accumulator for the 2-3 shift. Is the shimming intended to firm up the 2-3 shift or? Any links to a page with pictures or an in-depth explanation of how this works would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tony

[tsiconquest88]

Here is a link turbovanman gave me that is good... http://www.turbodiy.com/Mopar%20Page...s%20detail.htm Not sure of u seen the link or if it shows what u want to see but i'll post it anyway just in case lol.

[turbovanman²]

Right. I've done that before, but then you can't use the line pressure port for a gauge anymore right?

Thanks,
Tony

You simply use the kickdown apply port, reads the same as line pressure, its the one closest to the return cooler port or looking at the trans, top left.



Something else I'm curious about. Shimming the "soft apply" portion of the kickdown servo. I've seen it mentioned in passing, but not in detail. Now from what I understand, the kickdown servo also functions as an accumulator for the 2-3 shift. Is the shimming intended to firm up the 2-3 shift or? Any links to a page with pictures or an in-depth explanation of how this works would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tony

Yes, the Superior kit has shims in the kit for that, I am running 2 shims and 2-3 is fast and hard. I have the page saved somewhere, need to find it.

[Tony Hanna]

Here is a link turbovanman gave me that is good... http://www.turbodiy.com/Mopar%20Page...s%20detail.htm Not sure of u seen the link or if it shows what u want to see but i'll post it anyway just in case lol.

Thanks, I've actually got the whole transmission section on the turbodiy site as well as a couple others saved on a PDA so I won't have to keep running back to the computer when I get started.:)


You simply use the kickdown apply port, reads the same as line pressure, its the one closest to the return cooler port or looking at the trans, top left.
Thanks Simon. In that case I guess I'll go ahead and use the plugs.




Yes, the Superior kit has shims in the kit for that, I am running 2 shims and 2-3 is fast and hard. I have the page saved somewhere, need to find it.

If you could find that and post a diagram or something I'd really appreciate it. I'm assuming the shims are something I could make without actually having the kit on hand? I was just planning to do the DYI stuff, but I'd like to try the shims and drill the VB for Chad's line pressure mod too.

Thanks,
Tony