I have NO Traction til 3rd gear at best

[Xtrempickup]

Ok, here we go. My 92 Iroc R/T has terrible lack of traction. since i changed to a larger turbo and added the Devils own and the new stage 4 cal and more boost, I have gone consistently slower in the 1/4 mile, but actually with a faster MPH. My car now has 225/50/16 Nitto 555R Drag Radials, koni shocks and struts all around with eibach springs. I have an unequal length axle setup and i run around 25+ psi of boost on my 54trim t3/t4. My car has at best yesterday of 2.56 60ft and the fastest i went yesterday was 15.54@ 107.1 and i know i had no traction til 3rd and im pretty sure i had to short shift because i think the tire had totally broke loose at some point but the car went straight, but slow. I made one pass before that i almost ended up in the wall on the side because the car was pulling to the left and i had to let out and it ruined my run. i have the stock open diff and a blue plate with 4puck clutch, the clutch is great, no issues there. I was talking to an older mopar guy that owns a 92 spirit r/t that said he wedges his opposite rear corner suspension to put more pressure on the front corner and he said he almost gets a posi like effect and his stock r/t goes 13s all day. i need so ideas. can i maybe jack up the rear some like an older rwd maybe that will transfer some of the weigh to front a little. i need help, i hate this crap, my car went faster before i changed over from stock.

[turbovanman²]

Yep, preloading can work, shim the sway bar, air shocks in the rear to stop the back end from squatting and the most important one, RUN SLICKS. High HP FWD cars are impossible to launch without boost control or slicks.

[Xtrempickup]

my rear has the koni shocks and i have to say, i have them set STIFF, its like got very little travel if you push down on the back. im thinking maybe i need to get the end up tho maybe it would transfer the weight forward a little

[SwiftTech]

what is your tire pressure set at? try lowering it a bit to help the tire bite more.

[Xtrempickup]

i had the drag radials down to 21 i think. rears were well inflated so they roll.

[Speedeuphoria]

Stiffer rear end, like some of those spring inserts on the rear mainly driver side. Corner scales would help but normally the front pass side is the lightest so if you can move the battery or a couple things over there it will help.

A good boost schedule, like multiple stages with lower boost in 1st and 2nd. Or a good electronic boost controller like the Apexi.

Alignment

remove weight from the rear of the car

ect/ect..

[85glht]

and the most important one, RUN SLICKS. High HP FWD cars are impossible to launch without boost control or slicks.


+1.......... ditch the drag radials :thumb:

[rx2mazda]

Is this the same car that put down 408whp?

Not to sound mean but without knowing all the facts, it seams like your launch technique needs work. What rpm are you launching at, how much boost in 1st, what rpm are you shifting at? I would think that 225 DR's should be able to lay down some 2.1-1.9's in the 60ft with the proper technique. I went 2.2 with my stock 205 tires. MPH seems low for 408hp

The guy with the 13 second spirit, is he running slicks? Let him drive your car and then you will know if its driver error :)

[contraption22]

+1.......... ditch the drag radials :thumb:

+2 Get some slicks. Sounds like you could benefit from some 24.5's, and on a Daytona they should clear rather easily.

[8valves]

Are they BFG DR's? 21 psi isn't sh*t for them. Drop them to 14 and do a nice smoky burnout. Return with results.

My light front end SC making the same power you did would hook up third with 225/50/15 BFG DR's in third with a good stiff suspension and 13-15 psi in the tires. 20 psi street driving would allow it to let them loose in third with cool road temperatures.

[Xtrempickup]

Nitto Drag radials. My car hasnt been to a dyno since i changed the fuel rail and adjusted things, so now, it i have no idea what it is making, but if you watch my 1/4 mile when i run, my car takes off around the 1/8. i cant tune it without the dyno, too many things to try to monitor and its hard to see what the car is doing just running it up and down the highway because i cant launch it really anyplace. my technique does suck, but best i ran with the car was 13.74 @100.61 on autocross tires at 20psi prior to installing the alki and even tuning the car. best was even on the older cal i had. i think i'm going back to that chip just to see how the car run for kicks. that chip was good, but i worried about cut out because of the boost i wanted to run with it.

[2.216VTurbo]

I don't think you should be too hard on yourself for those passes, after all, I'm pretty sure 107 is MPH record for a 15.5x pass:p That's something right;)? Couple years ago at Mopars at the Strip, I managed a 13.7X @ 114 in the S. Same kinda traction limited thing:o

[Turbo3Iroc]

What did it do in the 1/8th?

[Directconnection]

my rear has the koni shocks and i have to say, i have them set STIFF, its like got very little travel if you push down on the back. im thinking maybe i need to get the end up tho maybe it would transfer the weight forward a little

You want them full SOFT! Koni's only adjust for REBOUND, not compression.

Full stiff means when the rear squats, the stiff rebound setting will not allow the rear to rebound back up, leaving the weight off the fronts.

[Directconnection]

my rear has the koni shocks and i have to say, i have them set STIFF, its like got very little travel if you push down on the back. im thinking maybe i need to get the end up tho maybe it would transfer the weight forward a little

You want them full SOFT! Koni's only adjust for REBOUND, not compression.

Full stiff means when the rear squats, the stiff rebound setting will not allow the rear to rebound back up quickly, leaving the weight off the fronts.

[Ondonti]

21psi = no point having drag radials honestly.

You have some serious driving issues too. Even with no traction, there is no excuse to run 107mph with 400+whp.

Dial some major lag into your turbo and its a lot easier to drive.

[Xtrempickup]

i doubt the motor being on its way out probably wouldnt have anything to do with the 107 either. its a lot of my attempt to drive

[t3rse]

I sense a little irritation....

[Xtrempickup]

irritation , wouldnt you be if your car just sucked any time you take it to a track regardless of how you attempt to make your driving better. id actually like to get my launch practice in but there just isnt the time or place

[turbovanman²]

SLICKS :nod:

Would you take a knife to a gun fight? because thats your are doing, :o

[Xtrempickup]

maybe on the new motor il invest in slicks, until them il practice with the drag radials

[Speedeuphoria]

I gave my suggestions based on a "street" setup, basically some chassis tweaks and some kind of multi stage boost control to make it easier to control the power. Making it less like an "on/off" switch in lower gears, easier to drive

[Xtrempickup]

my friend wired in a dual stage, its neat but then its one more thing you gotta time right. i got one more or 2 more track days left, il try to get it where it needs to look like it belongs.

[Speedeuphoria]

if you setup 2-3 stages, mount switches so they are triggered by the shifter. That takes you hitting a switch out of the equation. Then if you do get slicks just raise it some on each setting.

[Xtrempickup]

sounds great in theory but this is a dodge and im no rocket scientist

[Ondonti]

getting switches to work with the shifter seems pretty difficult for me :(

[10G OMNI]

avcr gear boost you need

[bansheenut420]

traction aside....
107mph :confused:
107 is closer to 300whp for a 3500lbs car.

[Pat]

Turn the boost way down and practice. You'll get there.

[85glht]

SLICKS :nod:

+1.............again :thumb:

[Xtrempickup]

i lowered the boost this afternoon and im gonna start playing with it again this week so maybe il get to Cecil with it even