Vacuum question?

[minigts]

Today when going home I went to get on it and around 5 psi, it starts acting funny, kinda like a cut out or something, definitely halting the car. Cruising it's fine, but under boost it just starts having problems. I haven't had problems that I am aware of in the last couple of days, so this is very new.

I think it may be a vacuum problem because one of the vacuum lines I am using is collapsed, the one going to the wastegate and I have a grainger. So my question is, with this happening, is the collapsed line causing some incorrect reading to the MAP or something? I mean, the gauge is reading up to about 12 psi when it CAN get that much, but I wasn't sure if that would be the culprit. I'm assuming it is because of the problem, but just curious. Going to fix that problem tomorrow for sure.

Codes aren't checked and I haven't checked compression or the plugs as I think the vacuum line is the problem. If replacing doesn't solve it, those checks will happen next.

[minigts]

Thanks for all the replies....:( Well the car is still running bad after replacing the vacuum lines. I'm going to pull the plugs tonight to see how they are. Hoping it's just bad gas or something to that effect. I went WOT earlier this morning and it just was missing here and there, but not like a constant miss, intermittent.

The fuel pressure regulator line was collapsed too, although I'm sure under boost it was still getting air. I have noticed that my mpg's are about 30 miles to the tank lower on the same grade gas, which is scary to me.

[cordes]

I would think that the lines being collapsed wouldn't be a problem at all in boost. You certainly could lose some gas mileage if things aren't working properly though. Pull the codes etc. and you should have more of a full picture of what is going on.

[minigts]

No codes related (31, 33, 36; I don't have any of those that would relate, hence the codes showing up). Plugs look fine, none fouled and none worn down any more than the others. I did have a problem with the #3 plug and the wire. The tip on the #3 plug was off and stuck in the wire. I guess the body of the plug kept the wire close. So I pulled that out and part of the outer sleeve in the wire fell out. There are two pieces; one outer sleeve and then the one the plug snaps into. The outer sleeve broke a part a bit and fell out. I was able to crimp the inner sleeve down to make it snug on the wire, but it didn't click like the others.

It's still doing it and not sure why. Maybe I got some bad gas or something, I don't know. It really acts like boost cutout which got me thinking about the computer or MAP sensor, but both are fine and don't have any visible problems. If I can find my other computer I may hook up my 2 bar and see how that runs, but only IF I can find that computer.

Any other suggestions? I mean the car runs fine on the road and cruises good. It will also do ok at low boost, seems to be about 5 psi or less. I guess I could also check the HEP.

[cordes]

Any other suggestions? I mean the car runs fine on the road and cruises good. It will also do ok at low boost, seems to be about 5 psi or less.

dear god noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! :(

[minigts]

I take it you are referring to the problem you had. :D Well I tested the HEP, no issues there. I am going to go with the plug wire is the culprit. I just took it for a test drive after the HEP switch and ensuring #3 was on and it ran like a scalded dog for 2nd, then in 3rd I started having the problem. 4th was intermittent. Turning around, almost the opposite. 2nd was intermittent, 3rd was minimal, almost no problem and 4th was the same. I think the wire is wiggling loose or something or not making good contact. The tip of the plug on #3 was COVERED in white powder before I re-attached it and with the metal piece falling out of the plug wire, I am thinking that is my problem.

[cordes]

I am referring to the problem I still have. Sounds like you might have it figured out with the plugs and wires there.

[minigts]

I changed out the cap and plugs with a set of factory size wires and plugs. The problem isn't as bad, but it's still there. I think this is getting closer to the problem. I may end up buying a set of wires from Simon, although I don't know if I should rule out the coil or a problem with that somehow. It definitely seems like a weak spark because I have power and boost to about 5psi still, but after that it starts missing which makes me think the spark is being blown out or deterred.

[Speedeuphoria]

or lack of fuel? but that would not explain the loss of mileage so it sounds like coil or something.

[minigts]

Well I think that is the problem, electrical that is. I may end up getting the wires and possibly swap out the coil. It could be running lean, but I don't have my a/f gauge hooked up currently. I need to do that as a temp just to see what is happening. It seems I can run almost 10 psi (now, but it is inconclusive if I only had 5psi for sure before) compared to the 5 psi it seemed to only do before cutting out. Just no time recently to check. Good thing is, it will drive fine as long as I don't get on it, so I can at least get to and from work. :\

[jl93sundance]

Did you ever seem to fix this problem? I recently started having this problem at wot anywhere above 12psi. It sounds like its hitting cutout but its not, and no overboost codes either.

[minigts]

Not definitively, no. I did swap out the SMEC for my stock cal and 2 bar MAP; no more problems with the "cutting out". Not sure if the computer is having issues or the 3 bar MAP. I can hit 12 psi (possibly 14.7 with the 2 bar MAP, just don't have it set there), so the limit on boost at WOT isn't a problem anymore. I thought the coil was the culprit and was, I think, somewhat right as the coil died on the way home Thursday. Went to the store, got another one and car fired right up. I really think it's either my computer or the MAP, we'll just have to see. Going to open the computer up tonight to see if anything is visibly wrong.

[DodgeZ]

Thanks for all the replies....:(


You should have called LOL

[minigts]

Ok, so I'm at a TOTAL loss. I replaced the stock computer and 3 bar MAP because of ANOTHER issue that came up, but more on that later. Put everything back together and decided to go for a test drive. The boost cut out issue is gone completely and it is driving like normal again! The ONLY thing I can think of is that the computer was reading something irregular and just stored the information but didn't throw any codes. The only thing that changed since I took the computer out was a new coil. But nevertheless, it is working at full boost at WOT. I promise I am not crazy, this actually happened.

[chilort]

I've also been having a running-not-quite-right-with-no-codes issue. I wish you the best because I certainly don't have any advice. I've tried HEP, coil, checked plugs, checked wires, redid some of the vac lines, checked and double checked many of the electrical connections. Every time I find something a little funny I'm like "oh, I've go it." Then I go for a drive and my little random miss is still there driving me nuts. I should be getting an OTC 4000e soon. I've owned one for about a month now but there was a shipping mess up, so I'm still waiting. I hope I'll be able to see the problem once that arrives.

[cordes]

Ok, so I'm at a TOTAL loss. I replaced the stock computer and 3 bar MAP because of ANOTHER issue that came up, but more on that later. Put everything back together and decided to go for a test drive. The boost cut out issue is gone completely and it is driving like normal again! The ONLY thing I can think of is that the computer was reading something irregular and just stored the information but didn't throw any codes. The only thing that changed since I took the computer out was a new coil. But nevertheless, it is working at full boost at WOT. I promise I am not crazy, this actually happened.

So with the two bar setup the problem went away. When you replaced the two bar cal with the same three bar cal and new 3 bar map it was gone also?

This would leave the only difference to be the coil and map correct? I have been having the same exact problem for some time now, and I have already swapped coils...

[minigts]

Well started out originally with: FWDP cal, 3 bar MAP

Coil went out, replaced the coil with an AZ NAMEBRAND Top o' the line China goodie. Drove the car home with the above setup and still had the problem.

Swapped out everything to stock with: stock cal, 2 bar MAP

Drove the car, no boost cutout or anything. So I drove the car for a while like this. Today I started seeing smoke (I'm pretty sure burning oil), so thinking it MAY be running too rich at startup, I decided to swap out the stock cal and 2 bar MAP back to the original setup listed at the top.

Swapped out the 2 bar MAP and stock cal to the FWDP cal and 3 bar MAP. Car is still burning oil, but the boost issue is gone. So the only REAL change was the coil and "resetting" the computer.

[minigts]

Nothing was new, just the coil, btw. The oil burning starts about 10-20 seconds AFTER a start and will burn for about a minute or once I start driving. Probably the rings I would imagine as it seems like it would burn immediately if it were the valve seals, but I'm not 100% sure where it's burning. And it doesn't burn when I get on it, i.e., the turbo seal.

[cordes]

Well, at least you have seemed to have solved the problem. Pull the plugs and see what they look like. That will tell you a little bit about your oil burning problem.