Iroc r/t wont start

[Xtrempickup]

Rather than start replacing things, here is what i have and dont have. I pulled the codes, not showing anything that would signal it being a Cam, Crank or coil pack problem, just the 12 and 53, 55 which are all worthless. It started having an issue last week, it didnt want to start but finally did kick over and was fine for the day. its sat a few days, and now i cant start it. Fuel pump is working, but it seems i have no spark, i can hear the pump running and priming when i key it. I wna say my coil pack is the problem but no way to rule it out as i dont have a spare. dont even know if i can get one around here at all. anybody have any ideas or a spare used known good coil pack. i have a good used cam and crank sensor, but both are something id rather no play with if i can figure out if the coil pack is the problem or not.

[bradp]

Sounds like the crank sensor. Have you recently installed a clutch?

[black86glhs]

Crank sensor should be easy. Isn't it right on the front of the 568? Might be a pain if you have a bunch of piping, though.

[iTurbo]

I recently had this problem with one of my Spirit R/Ts. In my case, it was a loose wire at the 60-pin SBEC connector. Trying jiggling it or the other big connectors behind the battery while attempting to starting it.

[Xtrempickup]

Ive decided that now it seems i also has spark as it does fire just not run. clutch was done not long ago but it started and ran fine after it was done. it fires once just doesnt seem enough to get it running.

[iTurbo]

Try pulling the crank sensor out to check for damage.

[bradp]

Try pulling the crank sensor out to check for damage.

I'll bet there is metal from the flywheel being turned all over it.

[Tony Hanna]

Try checking your ASD relay with a test light while somebody cranks the engine. If the ASD latches while the engine is cranking over, then you can probably rule out the crank sensor.
What about fuel pressure, condition of the spark plugs, etc.

[Xtrempickup]

plugs were replaced within the last 3 months and i dont even drive this car much and the way its tuned its not rich on the WBO2. flywheel was turned over a year ago, the disc was replaced recently but then again, its a ceramic so there could be material on it. wont know til i have time to do anything which isnt this week unless i get lucky enough to have jury duty instead of work

I changed cam sensors, same condition. dont have a spare ASD relay or anybody to tag team this with either. No codes. will go onto the crank sensor next. Fuel pressure is there on the rail gauge and i can smell it also

[bradp]

Something you may try just for $hits and giggles....Get a thin copper washer and put under the crank sensor where it bolts to the bellhousing between the sensopr and bellhousing. Sometimes the paper spacer doesn't get the sensor far enough away.

[Xtrempickup]

never touched the crank sensor ever, i imagine its stil the original from the factory

[zin]

never touched the crank sensor ever, i imagine its still the original from the factory

Sure, but with clutch changes, etc, it might have been bumped out of place, still in working order, but out of alignment. I think that's what BradP was getting at.

Mike

[Xtrempickup]

started today, dont know whats was wrong with it, gotta be something stupid

[iTurbo]

This may be a long shot, but with the car running try moving/jiggling the fuel injector sub-harness connector. I had an intermittent open circuit in there once that would cause the car to stall, and I found I could make the car stall at will by moving it around. This is usually accompanied by a code 26 and/or 27 though.

[Xtrempickup]

never had any of those codes and never had any issues even as many times i had the car apart, seems to be weather related now

[zin]

This may be a long shot, but with the car running try moving/jiggling the fuel injector sub-harness connector. I had an intermittent open circuit in there once that would cause the car to stall, and I found I could make the car stall at will by moving it around. This is usually accompanied by a code 26 and/or 27 though.

+1 on that, mine did the same, the connector on the harness had lost it's tab and would loosen up, run like crap, then no start, sometimes just die (always nice 1/2 way through an intersection!). Once I found it, I used a zip tie to keep it held together, no more issues with that...

Mike

[Xtrempickup]

i looked at the subharness, pulled it apart and put it back together, mine is ziptied to the fuel lines there and nothing seems odd and ive never had it run like crap or just stall

[Xtrempickup]

finally got to pulling the crank sensors and checking, removed sbec and replaced with other to check. last ditch chance, i changed the plugs. Its fixed. other ones got fouled and were just bad.

[zin]

finally got to pulling the crank sensors and checking, removed sbec and replaced with other to check. last ditch chance, i changed the plugs. Its fixed. other ones got fouled and were just bad.

Are you saying that all along it was just "bad" plugs?!:confused:

Mike

[bradp]

Too cold of plug?

[Xtrempickup]

well you have to remember, i run water/meth and i did a leak down test with oil and whatever, i guess it fouled the plugs out. i put new ones in and started right up