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View Full Version : OBX advise needed...axle still won't fit



MoparN75
03-23-2006, 09:04 PM
I've filed the axle teeth down, honed out the diff sleeve, even tried rotating it one tooth at a time and inserting axle, still will not go in far enough. Need another 3/4". I don't know what to do...out of ideas. Hell I'm not actually sure what is to tight. Anyone know how to get in touch with OBX?

Frank
03-23-2006, 09:55 PM
Here is a tutorial on it. The problem is that these are not meant for our axles, but for neon axles. So the following must be done.

http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopar1mad/quaife_axle.html


Frank

Ondonti
03-23-2006, 10:11 PM
Does the long axel need that modification?

89acclaim
03-23-2006, 10:32 PM
What year axles are you using?

Daniel Merrill

powermaxx
03-23-2006, 10:40 PM
Mine slid in just fine and I didn't have to shorten the pass side axle either. No explanation as to why, I'll just take it as good "Karma" (or is that "Carma")

MoparN75
03-24-2006, 05:52 AM
Opps, guess I forgot to mention that I've also done that, i.e. shortened shaft and bevel/taper end. From the measurement I get it seems the axle is going into the spider gear 7/16". As for the year of the axle, I don't know, I've got two. I'd guess one is an 88-89, came from 89 Daytona, the other...from an 88 Lebaron or 86 Daytona...thought they'd be the same. The axle I've filed the teeth down on goes in further. I can get an axle in the left side, it's tight but will go in,but not the right.

TurboGLH
03-29-2006, 11:46 PM
I was cruising honda-tech the other day (don't ask) and I noticed a thread about obx products that made mention of an issue like this that plague one of the honda diff designs. They ended up making changes to the design to solve the problem, now that doesn't mean this issue applies to you as more than a few people have succesfully used obx's. But it might be prudent to pull the trans back out, and use an axle stub to examine the fitment more closely.

MoparN75
03-30-2006, 05:30 AM
I've have the diff out for a while using and axle stub, I've got two, neither will fit. Can't get any help from the party I purchased it from, I'd return it if I could. Next I'll try filing the sides of the teeth with a small angled file. Getting real concerned about remaining contact area if/when it does go in.

TurboGLH
03-30-2006, 01:04 PM
I've have the diff out for a while using and axle stub, I've got two, neither will fit. Can't get any help from the party I purchased it from, I'd return it if I could. Next I'll try filing the sides of the teeth with a small angled file. Getting real concerned about remaining contact area if/when it does go in.

If thats the case the next step I would take is to disassemble the diff and find the point of interference. Just check the torque readings on the fasteners before pulling it apart and take your time to ensure proper assembly.

looneytuner
03-30-2006, 01:49 PM
the drive shafts slide in mine, but I see a problem
The TD diff spines are more square. This is for a 604 and 520.
The OBX splines are "V" shaped.????? Can somebopdy check the spines on a neon????driveshaft.

finallall
04-03-2006, 01:35 AM
the drive shafts slide in mine, but I see a problem
The TD diff spines are more square. This is for a 604 and 520.
The OBX splines are "V" shaped.????? Can somebopdy check the spines on a neon????driveshaft.

I just put an OBX in my A520 last week. The splines go in no prob. There not the problem. Don't bother shaving them. It's the part right after the splines, the little ridge that's hitting the OBX walls. I just ground it down a bit on my bench grinder and it went in like butter. :thumb:

Can't wait to drive the car. :evil:

MoparN75
04-27-2006, 06:15 PM
UPDATE; I got the axles in! Filed a very little on the side of axle splines, guess the pitch was off a little. I appreciate everyones input. Now where did I see that post about setting bearing pre-load?

MiniMopar
05-10-2006, 02:11 AM
I am having similar headaches. I filed the corners off the splines and took a bit of material off the shaft next to the splines with emery cloth. It went in farther, but not all the way. They fit my Neon Quaife just fine, so I don' treally think it's a Neon vs TD spline thing. More along the lines of using-worn-out-equpiment-to-machine-the-parts thing.

turbovanmanČ
05-10-2006, 03:37 AM
I found it wasn't the splines but more so the entry. I had to use some sandpaper to smooth out/widen the entry point and they finally slid in. I also found that the axles needed lubing, they wouldn't go in dry.




Now where did I see that post about setting bearing pre-load?



http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4083

MiniMopar
05-10-2006, 04:54 PM
OK, I used grease instead of oil to install them (thanks for the tip), pushed them in as far as they would go, installed the other ends of the axles into the knuckles, and used the weight of the knuckle/strut to pound them in. It didn't take that much force really, it's just that I couldn't really push on it very hard from underneith. Whatever burrs or whatever where getting in the way, I suspect won't be an issue once I have some mileage on it.

Still, I would recommend that if you get one of these to take it apart. Check the spring washer orientation and test fit the spines and housing onto your axles. Deburr as necessary. There is definately some finishing issues with these. Also torque the bolts to 30 ft-lbs.

Drove it around at bit. It seems to work well. The steering is heavier, as you'd expect. It REALLY wants to go in a stright line. Haven't lit em' up yet, as I'd like to break in this clutch a bit before beating on it.

turbovanmanČ
05-10-2006, 07:08 PM
Drove it around at bit. It seems to work well. The steering is heavier, as you'd expect. It REALLY wants to go in a stright line. Haven't lit em' up yet, as I'd like to break in this clutch a bit before beating on it.

Pretty cool huh, you turn tightly in a parking lot and it doesn't want to let you turn, :thumb:

looneytuner
05-10-2006, 07:56 PM
I think you DO have to cut the 1/8" off. You won't notice unless you slide it in tap with hamer and pull out. I can see where the splines left a mark on the halfshaft when it is not shortened. Unshortened is NOT correct. Don't know if it will cause failure or not.

MiniMopar
05-10-2006, 08:01 PM
I'm a little fuzzy on how shortening the half shaft will not leave spline marks on it....