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View Full Version : how can i tell if i have a TII or TI



89boostedminivan
09-17-2008, 10:59 PM
my mini has had a descent amount of work done by the previous owner, which i did not buy from, all i know is it was def replaced at some point and it says BCC garrett on it, how can i tell if it was a stock replacement?? forward motion who did and sold the parts for this van said he THOUGHT it was a stock replacement but wasnt 100% cause its been a couple yrs, the shop i got it from that got it cause the owner could not pay the bill from some top end work told me they were told it had a 16G or larger then stock turbo,loL! so i have no idea. 2ndly why would someone doing mods to it want a stock replacement, whats the benefit of that and not going with a slightly bigger one when your trying to make more power? heres a pic from underneath if you can tell anything from that
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/supergenesis/van011.jpg

turbovanman
09-17-2008, 11:05 PM
Looks like a Garrent, looks like a stock SV too but not stock for the van. It is an upgrade as the stock van turbo is a tiny Mitsu.

The only other way to tell what you have is take it apart and measure the wheels.

89boostedminivan
09-17-2008, 11:16 PM
well i mite do that cause i believe im having a wastegate issue rite now anyway, i messed with the boost control today and i couldnt get it to hold boost, kept going to 15psi, so i been told the WG is prolly stuck on it cause i ran a line from the WG rite to the manifold and it still overboosted instead of stock 5-7psi. wandering too though if the can is too small ?? has a 3" exhaust from the turbo back, cat and resonator no muffler
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/supergenesis/van007.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/supergenesis/van012.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/supergenesis/van002-1.jpg

turbovanman
09-17-2008, 11:22 PM
The wastegate can could be worn out, and access to it isn't bad on the vans.

The SV is a Turbonetics but the turbine housing is stock, I meant to say turbine housing earlier, lol.

89boostedminivan
09-17-2008, 11:27 PM
whats a sv,lol!!? im not sure if the trans was beefed up in anyway, its def newer, has a date of 2005, again supposedly was told it was a performance trans, but dont know really,lol! ?? does this tell anything?? says 424-14-B underneath it??
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/supergenesis/van003-1.jpg
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c220/supergenesis/van005-1.jpg

89boostedminivan
09-17-2008, 11:29 PM
The wastegate can could be worn out, and access to it isn't bad on the vans.

The SV is a Turbonetics but the turbine housing is stock, I meant to say turbine housing earlier, lol.

well i was told its probably locked up or welded, and not to be surprised if i cant move the arm with my hands, but it also just may be stuck and by tugging on it it may break loose?? ill try it tomorrow and see though if it is moveable

turbovanman
09-18-2008, 01:50 AM
Tranny, again, impossible to tell without taking it apart.

If the wastegate was welded shut, you'd be getting 20+ psi of boost if the limiters are removed.

SV is SwingValve, its the piece bolted to the turbine housing with 5 bolts and the DP or DownPipe connects to it.

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 07:01 AM
yeah it doesnt go to 20, it hits 15 then just cuts out?

tryingbe
09-18-2008, 12:16 PM
Factory computer fuel cut out is at 15psi.

You'll need a 3 bar map sensor (detect boost over 15psi) with 3 bar calibration and bigger than stock injectors to go over 15psi so that your engine will last.

You can just go by with only bigger injectors, but that's not advisable unless you have loads and loads of experience...

turbovanman
09-18-2008, 01:30 PM
yeah it doesnt go to 20, it hits 15 then just cuts out?

Yep, factory cutout. Check out this site to do manual tricks, www.thedodgegarage.com turbo database section or get a custom cal.

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 06:05 PM
so a stock 2.5 van is good up to 15psi?? i believe/ was told this has bigger injectors, do the stockers have any special markings or color to them?? another unsure though without actually knowing for sure,loL! that cutout is to protect the motor right?? can the motor be hurt by letting it hit the cutout?? reason i ask is i know ive hit it twice while trying to get the boost controller setup, only for a split sec it cutout but... i would think by cutting out its protecting itself from overboosting but some have told me dont let it hit cutout or youll blow a headgasket, which this just had replaced before i got it.

turbovanman
09-18-2008, 06:37 PM
The factory set the cutout at 14.7 psi to stop people from overboosting, leaning out and blowing up the engines. We now have ways to defeat that, either by using a map bleed which bleeds of extra boost and tricks the map into thinking its never over 14.7 psi. You must have an af guage or wideband to monitor the af as the computer doesn't have enough fuel above that so you need to run bigger injectors, cold starts or a custom cal. Hitting OB is not harmful per say but it will give you whiplash, ;)

You can run as much boost as you have fuel for, a stock garret should be good to 20 or so psi.

As for your injectors, there is a number on the top half, go to the KC and match it up.

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 07:24 PM
there P4532176, read from another post that should be 42lb inj??

turbovanman
09-18-2008, 08:27 PM
there P4532176, read from another post that should be 42lb inj??

Those are +20's, which are 42 lbs vs stock which are roughly 33's.

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 08:28 PM
def the # and its mopar brand, i searched the # and found a thread by someone else posting the same # wandering what size it was, and someone replied back they were 42's, you even replied back http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22132&highlight=P4532176

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 08:31 PM
why would it have 42lb inj but still running stock cutout for boost??

jl93sundance
09-18-2008, 09:33 PM
why would it have 42lb inj but still running stock cutout for boost??

Because the stock map sensor can only recognize to 14.7psi, and so the computer limits it to 14.7psi for safety:thumb:. So you will need to upgrade to a socketed computer and a 3bar map to run more than 14psi. you can do a couple of things to make the map sensor never read the full voltage to hit cutout(zener diode) or a map bleed in the vacuum line to the map sensor, so the map never sees over 14psi. That tricks the computer but is not recommended.

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 10:07 PM
im still trying to figure this van out,lol! sucks having to piece evrything together without knowing. the map bleed way is like a Gvalve off the map line rite?? wandering if this sis what the gvalve in the van was doing, i just cant picture all the mods that have been done to this van and it was running under 15psi?? also found out the wastegate rod is adjustable also, not sure were that comes into play as far as were it set at but....

cordes
09-18-2008, 10:31 PM
If the G valve was in between a vac source and the map then that is probably what it was used for.

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 10:51 PM
well i seen that if you connect the gvalve off the map line it will mapbleed, the pics i seen the gvalve has a t fitting and the ball and spring are reversed compared to when using as a boost controller but maybe this is how he was boosting over 15, cause i know the van also had a A/f meter hooked up to it before, the o2 is a 4wire and theres a few bare wires were i can tell it was being used for like a gauge. without being able to see the WG rod while still mounted how would you adjust that?? just pull off the lever end and screw it in or out?? what holds it on that end, a cotter pin or something? cause i cant get a boost controller to work which im assuming means a issue with the WG, but now with finding out its adjustable could this be why when i ran a line from the WG to the intake i was still capable of boosting to 15?? with adjustable WG rods you pull the line going to the WG from what i read and just cap it off?

turbovanman
09-18-2008, 11:09 PM
He put +20's in, ran a bleed and a Gvalve as a cheap way of running more boost, not optimal but it works. The van will be heavy on gas.

Best way is a cal but that method you have is fine, if you don't mind crappy fuel economy, they are already pretty bad, :(

89boostedminivan
09-18-2008, 11:33 PM
sounds like it, except i think he ran the Wg rod for boost control. maybe the gvalve was before the adjustable rod...

Directconnection
09-19-2008, 12:15 AM
do not go over 15psi until you make sure you are adding more fuel...the correct way.

89boostedminivan
09-19-2008, 12:49 AM
well it has 42lb inj, not sure if the pump is stock, but i know it doesnt have a adjustable fuel psi reg so... but if it has 42's there must be something else to help get fuel to it cause why spend the $$ on them :confused2:

Directconnection
09-19-2008, 01:41 AM
never assume, alot of people get in over their heads with these cars and...sorry to say... idiots with them as well.

Just because it has bigger injectors in it doesn't mean it will like 18 psi.

Tony Hanna
09-19-2008, 03:39 AM
I think the first thing to do would be to pull the rod running from the WG can off where it connects to the arm coming out of the SV housing. Then verify that the SV isn't stuck. If it is, then you might be able to break it loose with some penetrating oil and a pair of pliers.

If it's not stuck, then I bet the preload on the adjustable rod is set too tight. If that's the case, then it's just a matter of adjusting it. Loosen it up until you get 5-7 psi with a line run straight from the WG actuator to the hose barb on the compressor housing.

After that, you can hook the G valve back up and run the boost up to just below cutout. I wouldn't go any higher than that until you get set up to monitor your air/fuel ratio.

Once you're set up to monitor your AFR (preferably with a wideband O2 sensor/controller/gauge) then it's time to research the different methods of eliminating cutout and adding more fuel to run higher boost and decide which method is right for you.

89boostedminivan
09-19-2008, 10:13 AM
actually it does have a adjustable fuel psi reg, i wasnty looking at it good enough i guess. im trying to get that Wg rod disconnected from the SV . what a pain!!, any tips on how to remove it?? feels like its being held on by a allen or phillips head screw

88_pacifica
09-19-2008, 12:34 PM
Is this van an automatic?

89boostedminivan
09-19-2008, 01:53 PM
yes its auto. i took it up forward motion today and they filled me in on the setup they did to this van he said rite about 5yrs ago. stock replacemet T2 garrett turbo, double stacked IC, turbonetics SV with adjustable rod, 42lb inj, 255lph fuel pump, adjustable fuel psi reg, mopar pcm, k&n filter, he said it was setup to run off the stage 1 pcm which was boosting rite around 12psi becasue of the bigger SV and turbo. he said it was never boosting more then that from them unless the owner turned it more but he said he knew the guy and wouldnt think he was. and said with this current setup the motor cant really handle more then 12-14psi?? i thought with the upgraded fuel system it should be able too? and yeah he said unbolt the WG can by the 2 13mm bolts and push on the whole thing back and forth and it should come loose, if not then the SV mite have to come off to fix it

88_pacifica
09-19-2008, 01:57 PM
Be sure to take it easy on "standing starts" or burnouts as the stock auto trans is rather weak in it's natural form. :(

89boostedminivan
09-19-2008, 02:01 PM
well thats the thing i would really ;like to know, the shop i got it from was told it has a mopar performance trans that cost $2500, only thing i can tell is its has a 2005 manuf date so its def not the stock trans ?

t3rse
09-19-2008, 04:52 PM
to check the wastegate: hook up an air compressor regulated at about 20#...using a nozzle that will fit into vac line, slip on, pull trigger, if it opens, which should be easily visually verifiable, then the can is ok...else, the diaphragm is busted or it is siezed. If you take the can off, the arm attached to the swing valve should flap around freely.

What Simon said about running as much boost as you want as long as you have fuel is not correct. The computer will cease to pull timing at 14.7 and you will run into a spark issue with too much advance, and 2.5 pistons are really bad about cracking ring lands under very mild detonation, so you will end being out a few quarts of oil, a head gasket, a piston (or two), rings, and rod bearings, and if you are smart a ball hone....

turbovanman
09-19-2008, 05:23 PM
well thats the thing i would really ;like to know, the shop i got it from was told it has a mopar performance trans that cost $2500, only thing i can tell is its has a 2005 manuf date so its def not the stock trans ?

You can't tell externally unless you have a bill of sale to show whats done. The next step is to take it apart. You can check for some form of LSD by turning the wheels by hand, if both turn the same way, you have one, if not, you don't. Stock, they are a bit weak and can't take much abuse.




What Simon said about running as much boost as you want as long as you have fuel is not correct. The computer will cease to pull timing at 14.7 and you will run into a spark issue with too much advance, and 2.5 pistons are really bad about cracking ring lands under very mild detonation, so you will end being out a few quarts of oil, a head gasket, a piston (or two), rings, and rod bearings, and if you are smart a ball hone....

Sorry, I am right. I and many others before and after me have run the stock computer with bleeds. If you have guages and are carefull, the motor will easily live.

Tony Hanna
09-19-2008, 05:33 PM
...im trying to get that Wg rod disconnected from the SV . what a pain!!, any tips on how to remove it?? feels like its being held on by a allen or phillips head screw

It just sits down over a peg on the SV arm and has a clip to hold it in place. Since somebody's obviously been into it, what kind of clip is anybody's guess. I usually put them back on with a hairpin type clip to make it easier to get apart the next time. It's probably an e-clip though. Since it's next to impossible to see what you're doing once you get an arm back in there, you basically just have to feel around until you find the clip and then hook a small screwdriver in it to pop it off. Removing/replacing that clip is a pain, but it gets easier with practice.:)

cordes
09-19-2008, 06:34 PM
You can't tell externally unless you have a bill of sale to show whats done. The next step is to take it apart. You can check for some form of LSD by turning the wheels by hand, if both turn the same way, you have one, if not, you don't. Stock, they are a bit weak and can't take much abuse.



I don't think you can check the TBDs like that can you? I thought they would behave just like a stock diff with one wheel off the ground or a broken axle.

89boostedminivan
09-19-2008, 08:17 PM
Well the SV was locked up, good news some PB blaster and tugging on it i got it nice and free :), also put a turbo xs rfl BOV on also today and got the Gvalve hooked up making about 13-14psi of boost, shes running pretty good now. also completely gutted the interior except the front seats, dash and carpet, rest is gone. and it will only spin 1 wheel, i thing the pass side it spins, but it def has a strong kick/ pass gear when you mash it. anyone weigh one of this mini's pretty much completely gutted to see what they weigh??

Tony Hanna
09-19-2008, 08:45 PM
Glad to see you got it sorted out.:thumb: