Another Wrecked 16v???????????

[shelbyplaya]

Here's what happend.

I was at the drags on sunday and at about mid track the car started the burn blue real bad :( It happend during HIGH revs (about 6700rpm in a 2.5l). Only changes to the motor where: 57 trim T3/T4 with .63 stage 2 turbine, Tial 38mm extrenal WG, 3" open DP, 7 psi and cam 're-alingment', timing was at 6*, Mr. Gasket crank case e-vac kit dumped into the exhaust, and it's running perfect A/F's.

I know the oil is'nt being burnt in the exhaust due to the amount of raw oil dripping out of the DP. So I KNOW it's coming out of the PCV but why?

My 4 theroys are:

1) Rings are shot (not even 10 passes on a 384' track)
2) To much oil pressure/volume and the -10 and -8 oil returns cant keep up
3) To much vacume from the e-vac kit and it's sucking oil out of the VC
OR
4) a combo of number 2 and 3.

I let the car idle for about 15 minets today with the PCV dissconnected and I didnt even notice one drop of oil in the pcv ports on the VC, not even when i reved the motor up.


I have my oil returns in the oil pan about 2.25" or so below the the top of the pan, maybe this could be causing oil to back up in the lines as well????




Any help would be great guys. I would like to get this issue figured out so I can get the rest of my exhaust hooked up and get the car back on the dyno for some tuning.

[bakes]

i had nothing but trouble with mr .gasket crank e- vac dump kits from over pressurizing the crank case to leaking oil into the collectors they need a catch can before they exit into the exaust .

[zin]

Sounds like a leak-down is in order. This will tell you what kind of shape the rings are in among other things. In the end, it might just be that the evac system is too efficient and/or pulling from someplace that more than just oil mist is present. But the leak-down will surely point the way.

Mike

[shelbyplaya]

i ran a COLD compression test tonight and it came up 165 - 170 - 170 - 170, supprisingly on the high side.


Last time I did a HOT it was 150 - 150 - 150 - 150

I was only able to do one cyl hot (#1 = 150psi) due to the fact that the compression tester got stuch in the hole. DAMN thermal expantion!!!!!!!!

I'm really hoping it's to much oil flow to the top end and that my returns cant keep up with it.

[Russ Jerome]

A flow control valve from Graingers or a hydraulic supply shop can turn
the volume down without getting the pressure below 15psi at hot idle.

Its like a Grainger valve for the oil feed line, has a spring inside to
compensate for the oils cold or hot viscosity.

[shelbyplaya]

A flow control valve from Graingers or a hydraulic supply shop can turn
the volume down without getting the pressure below 15psi at hot idle.

Its like a Grainger valve for the oil feed line, has a spring inside to
compensate for the oils cold or hot viscosity.

Should i get a 2nd oil pressure gauge for the top end just in case then?

[Russ Jerome]

Exactly, adjust it at hot low rpm idle.
http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/images/oiling.jpg
10psi low oil warning lamp and gauge, replaced that
gauge with a real one later.

[Ondonti]

if you are getting a lot of oil on your rings, your compression can look pretty good...sorta like that "pour oil in the cylinder to see if compression increases" test.

My highest compression cylinder is the one that likes to foul plugs with oil :P

[whywoody]

I have my drains right at the gasket lip of the pan (high as poss).
I don't vent crankcase pressure via the valve cover,but from high in the block.The reason being that I found when venting from the valve cover,the 'air' volume (dosen't have to be much) traveling up the drain back hoses effectively reduces the inside diameter of the hose that is available for oil flow,and also carries oil with it and out the breather making a mess and stinking.
I ran a exhaust drawn set up for a while too...but removed it.I found that depending on the angle of the brab that is inserted to the exhaust,and the slash cut angle on the barb,it puled too hard.This caused a large volume of air to be drawn in through the vent on the valve cover,through the block picking up oil and dumping it into the exhaust.It worked best for me by using a restrictor between the valve cover and vent to slow the air speed down but still let crankcase pressure out via the block to the exhaust.The small amount of air flowing through the crankcase while cruising helped alot in winter to stop condensation crap from building up in the engine.
If I didn't let the crankcase breath properly,it would take nothing for oil to leak along the turbo's shaft and into the turbine,giving a huge smoke show..not fun.