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View Full Version : Headliner material, how do you remove the stuff that won't just come off?



minigts
09-11-2008, 08:41 PM
I'm redoing my headliner and plan on fixing the problems with the broken part of it, but how do you remove the material that is REALLY stuck on there? I have a few places that are coming down, but what about the places that aren't?

Also, when you redo it, do you trim the headliner where it won't be seen or do you fold it over the edges? It's seems when I did it a while back, they folded it over, so that's what I did this time, but any problems or no no's about not folding it over and just cutting it to size after you glue it on?

Mopar318
09-11-2008, 09:02 PM
If the foam fabric is stuck on really good, saturate it slightly with peroxide or rubbing alcohol.

If the board is fiber glass, use a bristle bruch to remove the foam. If its a carboard type material, use a wire brush.

On the front of the headliner, there is no trim piece, wrap it around and clue it on the back side.

The parts where trim peices will cover, leave about 1 inch over hang, dont wrap it though. Dont cut anything flush, or it will tend to fall down sooner.

Mopar318
09-11-2008, 09:05 PM
Also if the headliner is broken is spots, use duct tape on the back side. Then use a 1/4" headliner materials. It helps cover the repair, and adds alot of strength.

After you scrape the old foam off, use a regular straw hand broom to brush every last bit off.

jl93sundance
09-11-2008, 09:05 PM
what glue did you use before? 3m super adhesive is the way to go. The first time I used cheap glue that came with the kit I bought and it fell within months


For my shadow/sundance headliner, I cut the shape of the fabric to the board (after it dried for a while), except for the front where I rolled it over and glued it.

Mopar318
09-11-2008, 09:09 PM
Any of the stuff in aerosol cans we upholstery techs like to call it temp tack. In other words, it sucks and works great for holding things together that will need to be taken back apart.

I would invest in a cheapo glue gun, which can be had for about 30 bucks. Then buy yourself a quart of Landau Top and Trim adhesive. It is a pressure senstive contact adhesive. You spray it on, let it tack, then you can move the material around and stretch it in place and it wont stick until you press it down. This all will run you about 40 bucks or so. Just wait until you look at the price of just one can off the crap aresol stuff.

minigts
09-11-2008, 09:24 PM
Well thanks for all the replies! I used 3M spay glue previously and this time I got some "designed" for foam backing. Apparently it is a little gummier than the other 3M glue, so we'll see how that goes. And I will take the advice about leaving overhang. :thumb: I figured I should, but wanted to check. I plan on getting some fiberglass and resin to create a stronger board where it's weak and bent. I did the duct tape before, but it's not holding too well so that is going to be changed. I MAY use some lightweight aluminum to cover up where the visors go as well as provide some strength for the backing as well, along with the fiberglass.

Thanks again and I'll try to document what I'm doing as to post for future use for others.

shelbydave
09-12-2008, 09:07 PM
A few years ago I had somebody do mine for me. It cost like $35. Well worth the price for not having to hassle with it.

87glhs
09-24-2008, 07:08 AM
If you have the factory sun-roof, be careful when putting that big vinyl ring back on. You'll have to use some thin pieces of plastic like "shoehorns"--flatten out the headliner near the edge of the sunroof hole, push the trim on over the plastic, then slide the plastic out.