billet fuel rail adapt

[thx138]

Installing an aftermarket fuel rail. What fitting / how to install, do I need to tie into the stock metal fuel rail. This may seem trivial to some, but I have never worked with these types of fitting (AN etc). 90 Daytona lines is what I am trying to match up to.

Thanks.

[GLHNSLHT2]

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=&dept=Aluminum scroll down to the part # 165056 You need something like that. I would look for a local shop that sells earl's and just get the part from them cause shipping is outrageous for a little part.

[t3rse]

3/8 npt to -6 an, or 3/8 hose barb and use rubber line. Hit up your local hydraulics store and ask for JIC fittings. Both JIC and AN are 37* flare and are interchangeable. The hydraulics store should also be able to crimp up stainless lines.

[cordes]

Great suggestions by everyone thus far.

This is how I did it in my omni. It should work the same in your Tona'.

http://www.omniglht.com/rail.html

[GLHNSLHT2]

why did you still use a piece of rubber between the factory hard line and the SS line?

[cordes]

why did you still use a piece of rubber between the factory hard line and the SS line?

Because I did not want to modify the factory line.

[Mopar318]

If you have any hose/hydraulic shops around you. They can install a high pressure fitting onto your stock line

[thx138]

Thanks for all the info. I found and used a compression fitting. Works great. Now I cannot get the accufab to seal on the billet rail. I have tried 2 washers, 3 washers, 4 washers and this thing will not seal. I notice that the factory FPR has a nylon-type ring that just leaves enough space for the rubber o-ring whereas the accufab does not have that ring. By the way I am using the o-rings for injectors on the accufab, I assume that they are the correct ones. Am I supposed to find a ring for the accufab plus the o-ring? Is the o-ring supposed to fit right down inside the mounting cup? I assumed it is. Any suggestions to get this thing to seal. I was sealed for a while, took it out for a drive, parked it, no leaks but the fuel pressure kept climbing slowly as the car was parked (from 40 psi after shut off up to 55-60 psi within a half -hour - no pump running). Started it up an hour later and it blew out the o-ring again. Any suggestions, am pulling my hair out?

[cordes]

What type of rail do you have? Some of the fuel pressure regulator adapters that were sold by TU don't work right, although I don't know that they should cause a leak.

If you had a pic that would be worth more than 1K words for this.

[Chris W]

What type of rail do you have? Some of the fuel pressure regulator adapters that were sold by TU don't work right, although I don't know that they should cause a leak.

If you had a pic that would be worth more than 1K words for this.

There were only a few that were machined incorrectly by Mike at Powerhaus. There wasn't so much a leak issue but you had to face the regulator in the opposite direction requiring you to use a longer braided steel lines. We replaced only a couple of those units per customer request. I'm not sure if the OP has one of our adapters or not, but, if he does then a simple phone call will resolve his issues.

Chris-TU
602-762-6678

[thx138]

There were only a few that were machined incorrectly by Mike at Powerhaus. There wasn't so much a leak issue but you had to face the regulator in the opposite direction requiring you to use a longer braided steel lines. We replaced only a couple of those units per customer request. I'm not sure if the OP has one of our adapters or not, but, if he does then a simple phone call will resolve his issues.

Chris-TU
602-762-6678

It is not a TU rail. I would apolize for any confusion on this part. I will see about getting a picture up tonight.

[Chris W]

What causes the leaks with the Accufab AFPRs is the customers fail to use the washers to prevent the nut above the o-ring from going too deep and gouging the receiver cup. If the receiver cup is already scored it is damaging the o-ring every time it is installed or removed from the receiver cup. This will also occur on our adapters if care is not taken when installing the AFPR. See photo below.


Chris-TU

[puppet]

To the OP .... compression fittings are kind of shitty for fuel line.
Take a sawbuck USD$ to NAPA and get a counter man that knows the Weather Head bins. The fitting you need is there ... 3/8" hose to 3/8" JIC (AN).

[GLHNSLHT2]

Mine is still going strong after a week of use, no leaks. And matches the rest of the Earl's Fittings.

[GLHNSLHT2]

As for the AFPR and bracket thing. FWD has 2 brackets out there. One is taller but I don't think will seal with the stock FPR, I didn't try to see but my buddy has it. The 2nd is shorter and fits the stock FPR good but if using an AFPR will jam that nut down into the reciever cup a lot. Maybe the 1st one is the 1st generation and the 2nd one is their new one? Not sure.
Now another thing to look for on the FWDP rail (machined by lonewolf) is the o-ring at the bottom of the reciever cup where it screws into the extrusion. I've had 2 FWDP rails in my hand and both of the holes were machined at an angle and a huge burr left on the hole after tapping. This isn't the only hole that's messed up. It seems they can't get the vice or fixture square to the spindle so everything is machined off in the same angle. Some aren't as bad as others but I sent mine back and made my own. My buddy's isn't off too bad but still off.

[cordes]

To the OP .... compression fittings are kind of shitty for fuel line.
Take a sawbuck USD$ to NAPA and get a counter man that knows the Weather Head bins. The fitting you need is there ... 3/8" hose to 3/8" JIC (AN).

The fuel line is 5/16ths though.

[puppet]

The hose pushes on no problem cordes.

[puppet]

Mine is still going strong after a week of use, no leaks. And matches the rest of the Earl's Fittings.
Fine ... just that I've seen them fail too. Heck they fail on house water supply use with 1/3rd the pressure of our fuel system. Might be wrong but if you dig some @ Earls they state the max pressure of those fittings as kind of low.
Compression fittings work great for toilets though.

[thx138]

I ended up using a compression fitting to tie to the fuel rail. Seems to work fine. After blowing out the 4th o-ring (Standard Brand - injector o-rings) I tried an old black one off of an injector. No leaks after a week. The red ones (standard brand) would come out split and litteraly shredded. I was installing all of them with a little grease to assist in the mounting procedure but it did not seem to help. The mounting cup was not 'burred' at all but I did take a small file to the inside edge just to clean-up the machined 'knife-edge". Not sure if it was the o-rings or the edge cutting the o-ring causing my issue, but it seems to be 'fixed'. The last thing I wanted was an o-ring blowout resulting in a fine spray of fuel everywhere and a hot turbo. Thanks for the assistance from everyone who had advice and ideas.

[cordes]

The hose pushes on no problem cordes.

I would hope so since 3/8ths is bigger than 5/16ths. I personally wouldn't want to run the wrong size line for a fuel application right next to the exhaust manifold.


Fine ... just that I've seen them fail too. Heck they fail on house water supply use with 1/3rd the pressure of our fuel system. Might be wrong but if you dig some @ Earls they state the max pressure of those fittings as kind of low.
Compression fittings work great for toilets though.

I saw one site where they were rated pretty high, but then badandy found a site that listed them at I want to say 45lbs. I emailed their tech people, but they never got back to me. Andy accidentally installed the feed and return lines backwards on his car and saw the gauge pegged at a ridiculous pressure that alleviated worries about it's pressure holding abilities though. I have been running one on my car for about two years now with no problems.

[badandy]

I would hope so since 3/8ths is bigger than 5/16ths. I personally wouldn't want to run the wrong size line for a fuel application right next to the exhaust manifold.



I saw one site where they were rated pretty high, but then badandy found a site that listed them at I want to say 45lbs. I emailed their tech people, but they never got back to me. Andy accidentally installed the feed and return lines backwards on his car and saw the gauge pegged at a ridiculous pressure that alleviated worries about it's pressure holding abilities though. I have been running one on my car for about two years now with no problems.

I called a place that specialized in Audi's as they evidently used 5/16 feed and return and had the fittings in question on their site. In my discussion with them they used compression to a/n fittings on all of their projects unless the customers goals were higher than what a 5/16 line could produce...anyway, their fittings (they would not divulge the brand name) were good to 450psi!

Cordes is right in that Reeves and I in a hurry to make spring fling after wrenching for lord knows how long and drunk to boot accidentally swappend the inlet and outlet on my remote regulator. James asked me to prime the system and it pegged my underhood fuel pressure gauge (and then some!)...the needle went as far as it would go...had to been somewhere around 200psi!...anyway I was leary of the compression fittings beforehand but had done my homework...once James saw the gauge pegged he look at me and said "I don't think you are going to have any problems with leaks...lol"....we let it sit like that for awhile while we B.S.'d and drank more beer...lol...just to see if it would hold and it did....dry as a bone.

I drive the car everyday and it's been quite awhile now and no problems...my experience is that it's much safer than rubber line and hose clamps!

[puppet]

I would hope so since 3/8ths is bigger than 5/16ths. I personally wouldn't want to run the wrong size line for a fuel application right next to the exhaust manifold.

The hose is 5/16" and the barb on the fitting is 3/8".

[Mopar318]

So the stock feed line on a TII is 5/16"? Whats the return line? Hmmm 5AN might be hard to find.

I need to order my tube nuts/sleeves, and forgot to measure the fuel lines this weekend. Grr.

[Mopar318]

Actually I found that earls sells AN hose end with to 5/16 tubing adapters.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR-360104ERL&N=700+4294733687+4294923377+4294767415+115&autoview=sku

Now I have to call and see if they are used with a JIC 37 degree flare or SAE 45 Degree

[GLHNSLHT2]

Earls are 37 degree's.

[crazymadbastard]

this is what you need:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D165056ERL&N=700+115&autoview=sku

^^that one is for the feed, I went to Sears hardware and found a 1/4 tube w/ferule to 3/8 ntp then ran a 3/8to -6an adapter(before finding the An to tube ones that is)