K frame reinforced

[johnl]

I think I over did it but here are pics. This will probably push the next failure point into the frame rails/towers/sheet metal. The cross member should clear the trans and will be the lowest thing under the chassis; we'll see.

[Garret]

I like it :) I just made a tiebar that bolts in to the front control arm bolt

[turbovanman²]

Looks good. :thumb:

Thats why I weld up the front K-member mount on the car/van.

[looneytuner]

My wife already beat you to the next failure point. The mount for the k frame was crushed when she was attacked by a 6" curb. One blown tire, smashed wheel, and mangled k frame.

[johnl]

Here is more over kill.

[inmyshadow]

John, did you weigh the pieces before and after the "over kill"



Here is more over kill.

[johnl]

John, did you weigh the pieces before and after the "over kill"


James -

No. On each A-arm there is a total of about 15" of 2" x 1/8" steel strap. Some was ground off for the curvy part. So, 30" of strap plus welding wire - less than 1 1/2 lbs total, or about 12 ounces/side. Most of the weight is near the pivots so you could count it at less than its 100% weight, in terms of unsprung weight.

[turbovanman²]

James -

No. On each A-arm there is a total of about 15" of 2" x 1/8" steel strap. Some was ground off for the curvy part. So, 30" of strap plus welding wire - less than 1 1/2 lbs total, or about 12 ounces/side. Most of the weight is near the pivots so you could count it at less than its 100% weight, in terms of unsprung weight.

Could have just used Minivan control arms, :thumb:

[inmyshadow]

That was my original suggestion for John. My biggest concern is whether or not you warped the control arms durning welding.

But hey, if you have time, money, experience and know how more power to you.

later



Could have just used Minivan control arms, :thumb:

[johnl]

James -
A few years back I built wrought iron railing for an addition at my house - saved a lot compared to what the wrought iron contractor wanted. That paid for the mig welder - and then some.:)

Strap/wire/argon-C02 - maybe $10.

So, why not? Warpage? Not worried about it. Car is getting struts too and it hasn't been aligned since 1985 so it was gonna get aligned anyway.

Simon - Easier and cheaper than paying a JY to walk in so I can get dirty so I can pay again on the way out for a dirty part that I hope is the right one that will fit. :mad: I mean I got the part. I got the welder. I can do it for next to nothing. I can get dirty in my own garage! :)

[turbovanman²]

James -
A few years back I built wrought iron railing for an addition at my house - saved a lot compared to what the wrought iron contractor wanted. That paid for the mig welder - and then some.:)

Strap/wire/argon-C02 - maybe $10.

So, why not? Warpage? Not worried about it. Car is getting struts too and it hasn't been aligned since 1985 so it was gonna get aligned anyway.

Simon - Easier and cheaper than paying a JY to walk in so I can get dirty so I can pay again on the way out for a dirty part that I hope is the right one that will fit. :mad: I mean I got the part. I got the welder. I can do it for next to nothing. I can get dirty in my own garage! :)

True that, I would rather fabricate my own stuff, but only sometimes though, :D

[GLHSKEN]

My K's getting "beefed up the same way... And the frame rails are getting beefed as well. No sense chancing things.

[turbovanman²]

My K's getting "beefed up the same way... And the frame rails are getting beefed as well. No sense chancing things.

Nope, and when you weld up the front K-member mounts on the frame, you'll wonder how they survive the punishment we dish out, :thumb:

[GLHNSLHT2]

hope that kmember is going on an Lbody. Otherwise swapping to the later style is worlds better in stiffness and suspenion movement on the other models. The Old style actually stresses the kmember when you hit a bump and the control arm moves.

[GLHSKEN]

On the later ones... I just removed my 1st axle from that style... MAN O MAN... what a PITA... is it normal for the sway bar to NOT want to rotate out of the way??? I got it moved about 1-2" and that was it. Shoving that control arm down, I expected with the dual pivot for it to be a snap... Was I wrong!!!!

[johnl]

hope that kmember is going on an Lbody. Otherwise swapping to the later style is worlds better in stiffness and suspenion movement on the other models. The Old style actually stresses the kmember when you hit a bump and the control arm moves.

Yep - '85 GLHT/T2

[inmyshadow]

When have to pull a halfshaft, I first disconnect the outer swaybar. I also loosen the bolts to the inner swaybar. Then I can swing the bar out of the way.

Putting the bar back on is petty tough. I usually have to use a jack on one side so I can get one of the outer bracket bolts started.


On the later ones... I just removed my 1st axle from that style... MAN O MAN... what a PITA... is it normal for the sway bar to NOT want to rotate out of the way??? I got it moved about 1-2" and that was it. Shoving that control arm down, I expected with the dual pivot for it to be a snap... Was I wrong!!!!

[GLHNSLHT2]

uhh jack up the front end, loosen axle nut. un bolt ball joint, place pry bar between control arm and spindle and pry the spindle/strut off the ball joint, swing it back and pull out the axle. Done!

[GLHSKEN]

This was not so simple and I'm pretty seasoned.. I think the damn sway bar bushings all around are fubar'ed