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TurboSedan
08-15-2008, 02:23 AM
i'm going to be ordering a boost gauge later this week from Summit. the last couple of boost gauges i've had in previous cars were the cheaper Autometer mechanical boost gauges and i didn't like that they always read ~2-3psi even with the engine off. i never really knew if i was pushing 12psi or 10psi or what. i'm not sure why it did this but maybe it had to do with my high elevation?

this time i would like to get an Autometer electronic boost gauge that includes a MAP sensor. would this kind of gauge always read zero with the engine off? can you calibrate them? are they alot more accurate?

if it's going to have the same issue i guess i might as well save $150 and get another mechanical boost gauge.

thanks

--------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS

supercrackerbox
08-15-2008, 02:45 AM
I honestly don't know the answer to your question, but for the price I would think you'd be able to calibrate them. I would call Summit's tech line or even Autometer's tech line if they have one, and ask.

Nemesismachine
08-18-2008, 10:07 AM
I remember a way to make them super fast and accurate, I'll have to dig around to see if I can find it. Anyone else know what I'm talking about?

contraption22
08-18-2008, 10:13 AM
I've never trusted electronic guages as much as I trust mechanical.

tryingbe
08-18-2008, 01:11 PM
contraption22,

Are you saying you won't trust your map sensor either?

BadAssPerformance
08-18-2008, 01:19 PM
Everything has tolerance/error.

If a mechanical boost gauge is not pointing at the zero when not in use, it is junk.

MAP sensor to MAP sensor will read different as well.

contraption22
08-18-2008, 01:55 PM
contraption22,

Are you saying you won't trust your map sensor either?

I never really thought about it.

TurboSedan
08-28-2008, 04:45 AM
i went ahead and ordered the Autometer Cobalt series electronic boost gauge from Summit. should be here tomorrow afternoon and then i will probably install it this coming Monday. for $200 it better read "0" with the key on/engine off!

------------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS

Dusty_Duster
08-28-2008, 09:37 AM
I've never had a problem with the readings of mechanical Autometer gauges.

But don't get me started on their LED lighting.

iTurbo
08-28-2008, 02:03 PM
I use Autometer mechanical vac/boost gauges in all my cars. Seems like you're REALLY lucky if you get one that reads '0' out of the box. With the engine off, the 'Z-series' in my R/T reads 2 psi, the Phantom in my Omni sits at 2 in/hg, but the Ultralite in my SL reads perfectly. I had to replace a gauge in my R/T once because it suddenly decided ambient pressure was about 6 in/hg one day.

contraption22
08-28-2008, 02:45 PM
I use Autometer mechanical vac/boost gauges in all my cars. Seems like you're REALLY lucky if you get one that reads '0' out of the box. With the engine off, the 'Z-series' in my R/T reads 2 psi, the Phantom in my Omni sits at 2 in/hg, but the Ultralite in my SL reads perfectly. I had to replace a gauge in my R/T once because it suddenly decided ambient pressure was about 6 in/hg one day.

I had this happen myself, actually. I ended up replacing my autometer with a Stewart-Warner 30hg/40psi Boost guage. It actually seems to be a much higher quality unit, plus it reads up to 40psi for those of us that will venture beyond 3 bars:)

http://www.sw-performance.com/index.php?page=details&p=114545

Dusty_Duster
08-28-2008, 02:54 PM
Huh. The Autometer Vacuum gauge in my Ram always reads "0" when the truck is off. I have a Faze gauge in my Duster, and that also reads "0" when the engine is off.

TurboSedan
08-29-2008, 12:55 AM
i just got my Autometer electronic boost gauge tonight.

this is step 8 in the installation instructions:



8: Connect the red power wire to a switched +12 volt source that maintains power during engine cranking. Most vehicles break the electrical connection to accessories while the engine is being started. If the boost gauge is connected to one of these circuits, the auto zero function will not work properly and inaccurate readings will result. To determine weather a switched source maintains power during starting, look for electrical accessories in the vehicle that remain on while the engine is being started. Connect the red power wire to the same circuit that powers one of these accessories. The connection can be tested by turning the key switch from off to on, the pointer will move backwards to the stop pin and then move to zero. Once the pointer has reached zero, start the engine. If the pointer reads vacuum without returning to the stop pin, a suitable connection has been found. If the pointer moves to the stop pin and then reads vacuum, another power circuit must be found.


after the installation instructions, another section is printed labeled "Power-Up":



The pointer will move backward to the stop pin and then move to the zero box. This procedure is an auto-calibration function and is performed on every power-up. While this test is being performed, the gauge may make a clicking sound. This is normal.

Electronic Boost/Vac gauges are equipped with an auto zero function used to compensate for operation in varying altitudes. This function takes a pressure reading during the time that the key switch "flies through" from the ON posistion to the START posistion. The reading represents 0 pressure and is used to set the zero point on the gauge each time the engine is started..

so far i am glad i bought this over a mechanical boost gauge :nod:

--------------------------------
Joshua Mitchell
'91 Dodge SPiRiT R/T
'87 Shelby CSX #667
'98 Buick Regal GS