Connectiong Meggasquirt to a stock T2 harness

[shelbyplaya]

Has anyone done it? If so did they make a wiering diagrame?

thanks

[risen]

Has anyone done it? If so did they make a wiering diagrame?

thanks

My brother and I have done one to a T1 harness from the omni. It's not for the weak of heart, let me tell you. We didn't make a diagram, but here's what was involved from what I remember.

We took the bulkhead connector off pulled the whole underhood harness out of the car (light sockets and all). We then cut all the tape off of it, and removed all of the stuff that we didn't need for the MS based upon the pinout from a service manual. There were some wires we cut and left a bit of slack on (fuel pump comes to mind), so we could wire them into our new harness.

We used an EDIS-4 module and it's vr sensor. The trigger is mounted to 1/2 of the a/c pulley. You can remove the a/c pulley by drilling the welds on a set of pulleys. Then slice the a/c pulley down the middle where the belt would run. We drilled the trigger wheel and pulley in 6 spots. Using these 6 holes and the 4 bolts for the crank will give you quite a bit of adjustment. The trigger wheel is secured with 6 allen head bolts with nuts and washers. The vr sensor sits on a bracket we fabbed and is bolted to the intermediate shaft hanger bearing bolts. The vr sensor gets wired to the EDIS. The coilpack and edis get wired up together with power and ground and an additional ground from the coilpack to the body. 2 wires from the EDIS module then get put back to the megasquirt relay board. We also took 1 wire from the EDIS module for the tach on the dash, which got wired back to the bulkhead.

I understand that you can now use the stock HEP, which saves a good deal of that, but the tach may still be a consideration.

We used the voltage regulator circut to the power module and ran it to an older style mopar VR (which, IMHO is 1000x better than the PM). So we were able to leave most of the alternator harness in one piece.

The fan is using the fidle circut from the MS. It is dual relayed since the relay board can't run one of our stock fans. We found that the relay board can't handle the amperage, lol. The relay on the MS realy board triggers another realy which actually runs the current for the fan. The 2 realy setup is not as nice as it could be, but we started the project not knowing that the realy board wouldn't handle the current flow.

We left the fuel pump circut in place and wired it to the relay board for the MS. I believe we wired the realy board to the bulkhead for the fuel pump.

All of the connections going to the LM were cut out and we re-used the grommet (sp?) for the LM to run the MS cable for the relay board. The MS is in the car (mounted to the glove box) and the relay board is in front of the right front shock tower near the motor mount. To do it this way, we built our own DB-37 cable because I couldn't find a pre-made one that's the proper length.

The power from key-on was taken from the bulkhead connector for the MS. Other than that, we built the rest of the harness from scratch, using the factory harnesses and connectors for things like injectors/AIS/TPS where we could.

Everything was then re-integrated as much as possible into the factory harness, using the factory bulkhead connector. We also replaced the fusable links for the 12v feeds from the battery with a small fuse block. That in itself is a hell of an upgrade when doing something like this.

I'd seriously recommend just tapping into the factory harness for the few connections you need and building an overlay for sensors and injectors if you can make it neat. Assuming you care about neatness, lol. What I oultined above was probably 3 months of 12 hour / day weekends to get it proper and neat underhood.

The pic in my sig was from when we were wiring it in and my other bro's dog was hanging out w/ us.

[overboostmotorsports]

there is a guy local to me that says he builds a plug and play unit using the tbi dist. you unplug the smec and plug this in.
i have not tried because i don't like the in ability for a CEL and code retrieval.


Norm

[rbryant]

One problem is that the Megasquirt has to be inside of the car since it can't take the heat or moisture that exists under the hood (it isn't potted in rubbery compound like the stock SMEC/SBECs).

I don't think you have enough connections in the 40 pin connector to cover the MS and the stock accessories. It would make more sense to use the passenger side connectors for the LM in an older lbody since they are more of the right signals anyway.

I still have to tackle this project myself...

[risen]

Our original goals were to eliminate as much of the stock wiring as we thought feasible and to make the install as clean looking as possible. The MS unit stayed inside the car as the MS site suggested. You might be able to get away with it being underhood, but I wouldn't try it.

Also, there's really no error checking in MS for any sort of failure. It won't even really tell you if/when somethings wrong. Nevermind test the sensors for sane responses like the factory electronics.