TIII distributor adapters-done!

[turbovanman²]

I finally got one made, nice looking piece, so after I use it on the van, I can offer them for sale.

Cost is $150.


After having it working etc, I think I will leave the setup the way it is, i think its easier to get at the bolt at the rear than the front. An O-ring is being added although RTV did work fine.

EDIT-Distributor leaks oil out the shaft, I added an O-ring and it stopped so maybe one day, I'll have new shafts made up.[/U][/B]


Ok, pics-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork068.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork069.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork070.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork071.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork072.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork066.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build20and%20van%%20pics/Sonywork065.jpg

[2.216VTurbo]

PICs Later?? Dude, seriously:(

[Clay]

Tgihfatamsff!

[turbovanman²]

Added.

[turbovanman²]

I used the right lower 6mm bolt hole already there, then drilled another hole left upper and tapped in the head for a 6mm bolt. Drilled and tapped the dist hold down clamp bolt and slotted the cam, used a grinder, worked perfectly but took awhile to get it exactly right so it didn't bind. Also had to grind out the distributor a bit to clear the water outlet housing bolt.

Should have it running next week, so we will see how it goes.

So if you want one, I will have the dist hole done but the others would be up to you. I would recommend the right lower one being done and then you do your own left upper hole.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork080.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork083.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork084.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork085.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork087.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork088.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork089.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork090.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork092.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork093.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork095.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork096.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork110.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a228/turbovanman/TIII%20engine%20build%20and%20van%20pics/Sonywork108.jpg

[iTurbo]

How does it seal to the head? Do you think there would be room for M8 bolts?

[turbovanman²]

How does it seal to the head? Do you think there would be room for M8 bolts?

You could use any bolt size you want, but I wanted to reuse the existing lower bolt which is M6. You could drill anywhere you wanted on the plate, that would be up to you for the 2nd bolt. I could have used M8 but trust me, with those 2 bolts, its not going anywhere plus theres really no stress.

I will use RTV, with the 2 surfaces being fairly flat, that will seal no problem and I will put some thread sealer on the top left bolt.

I should have it running this week but the head needed alot more cleanup that I thought. I was told by an old schooler that has done this before that the reluctor wheel doesn't need to be moved, so we will see.

I also noticed some distributors, the drive moves around to compensate for machining tolerances, some are solid, try to find one that moves around.

[black86glhs]

Hey man, nice work. I was going to ask if the end of the cam needed to be chamfered, but it looks like it doesn't need to be.(not criticizing)
What is the idea, to be able to adjust the timing for different boost settings? Not having to get into programming? I'm seriously asking as I don't know.:thumb:

[turbovanman²]

Hey man, nice work. I was going to ask if the end of the cam needed to be chamfered, but it looks like it doesn't need to be.(not criticizing)
What is the idea, to be able to adjust the timing for different boost settings? Not having to get into programming? I'm seriously asking as I don't know.:thumb:

Running a TIII engine or head on a SMEC or LM type car without rewiring for the TIII wiring harness. This also makes a swap easier as no cam/crank sensors and if your running an auto, you don't need to make a crank trigger setup.

I also think this would be a great way to put an auto into an R/T, :wow1: lol!

[black86glhs]

Gotcha!:thumb:

[WickedShelby88]

A built auto would be sweet in an R/T bro! But about the adapter, how do you know where the cam needs to be notched or is there already something there for reference. The adapter looks great. I would just be curious about the cam itself as to get it as close to perfect as possible in terms of timing.

[turbovanman²]

A built auto would be sweet in an R/T bro! But about the adapter, how do you know where the cam needs to be notched or is there already something there for reference. The adapter looks great. I would just be curious about the cam itself as to get it as close to perfect as possible in terms of timing.

The slot doesn't have to be bang on as you can adjust the timing, remember, :nod:

I set up the cam to TDC, marked it, then scratched my head on how to make the slot, I started with a die grinder but realized the slot would be too wide. So searching for my dremel, I saw my full size hand grinder, and bingo, made the perfect slot. As long as its close, it will be fine. When I get it running, I'll see how close I was, lol!

This will be a great option for my R/T if I have to make it a auto for the wife. All you would have to do is extend the cam and crank wiring to the side, run a dizzy and run a 90 and up SBEC and no worries about using a crank trigger.

[turbovanman²]

Update, it runs, you just need to remove the reluctor wheel one hole and change the firiing order. The slot is pretty close to being in the right spot too.

[turbovanman²]

Guess I should update, works fine, no leaks at the head to plate.

[csx516]

Ready to make a purchase private message me

[Thekeithchambers]

What dizzy do you use? What do you have to wire up? And is it easier to convert to rwd with this. I'm interested in one